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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 9th, 2017, 14:51   #1
Kyle51697
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: PA
Default Alh throwing some codes

So my alh is throwing some codes and also has barley any power, it starts fine and idles fine but has very low power. The codes it is giving me are

P1144- MAF sensor bank one open circuit or short to ground
P1556- charge pressure control negative deviation
P0380- glow plug/heater circuit A

I checked all the vacume lines they seem fine but I do see a bit of oil in the egr. Just looking for more info on where to go from here
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Old December 9th, 2017, 16:28   #2
Tdijarhead
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Probably a new MAF is in order, if you had vcds you could check that for sure.

Has the intake ever been cleaned?

One of the glow plugs is acting up. Check out this thread to diagnose.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=79819
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Old December 11th, 2017, 04:43   #3
Kyle51697
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I have read that with the maf unplugged the car should gain some power but it doesn't. I just bought the car with 120k on it and did know about the codes and low power before buying. I plan on cleaning the intake and getting an eye delete kit. Could the intake be the main problem or should I buy the limp mode fix kit with the maf, n75, new vacuum lines and the vane acctuator?
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Old December 11th, 2017, 05:02   #4
Tdijarhead
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My old 2000 had a fully plugged intake with a P1556 code. However the code also shows up for other reasons. With a 99 it’s probably about time to do that kit. I probably would but you’re the one spending your money.

The glow plug codes may be caused by just a bad connection, I have a 22 cal bore brush
i dig out every so often and clean up the connectors that snap over the top of the glow plugs. However if your harness has never been changed, they get brittle with age.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 15:26   #5
wonneber
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I would test the glow plugs with an amp meter.
They should all be about equal amperage.
The 'P1556- charge pressure control negative deviation' is not enough boost.
Could be a lot of things.
There's threads for what to check before throwing $$$ into it guessing.
Vacuum hoses could be cracked, vacuum pump not working, N75 as you indicated.
There's a vacuum actuator on the turbo that could be bad.
A quick test would be have someone start the car while you watch the arm it connects to.
The arm should move almost an inch or so.
If it doesn't move you can test it with a vacuum pump.
The arm should start to move at 3 inches vacuum, full at 18 inches or so.
Next check if its getting vacuum & how much.
Starting with easy tests.

Very important question.
You just bought the car with 120K miles.
It should have been changed at 100K
Did you get any service records with it?
If you don't know for absolute sure the timing belt, rollers, tensioner, and water pump were changed it's a high priority.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 22:26   #6
UhOh
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Rich, if it's a 2000 or earlier the TB change interval was something like 60k miles (not sure if manuals were 80k miles, but, for sure, no more than 80k miles). If the TB has been changed it might still need to be changed due to time, rather than miles.

I posted in Glow Plugs 101 thread about my "fix" for the son's GP issue. GPs were fine, but he'd still get a code. Voltages were fine. I for sure had cleaned the connectors. So, what was the deal? The connectors tend to weaken a bit, expand, thus making a less full connection. I stuffed some foil over the top of the GP and pushed on the harness. I think it's been code free now for well over a year.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 04:02   #7
Tdijarhead
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Youíre right those early engines had a 40k (automatic) and 60k (manual) belt change interval. If by some chance that is the original belt itís way over. If it was changed at a dealer they would have put the 40 or 60k belt on instead of the new 100k mile belt.

Does the OP have any idea about when the belt was changed last?

To answer a question the OP asked, unplugging the MAF should cause the car to run differently if it runs the same the MAF is in need of replacement.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 09:55   #8
wonneber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
The connectors tend to weaken a bit, expand, thus making a less full connection. I stuffed some foil over the top of the GP and pushed on the harness. I think it's been code free now for well over a year.
I forget the older ones have shorter change intervals.
I replaced my harness many years ago and haven't had problems.
I like the foil solution.
I wonder if thin copper sheet could be rolled around it.
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