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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 10th, 2016, 14:31   #1
V-DubLuv
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Default Overheating after thermostat install

Finally got around to swapping thermostats in my Jetta after dealing with slow warm up times and little heat in the cabin. Bought oem parts and went for it.

Pulled the coolant ball and pulled the thermostat and housing. Popped the new parts back in, they can only go in one way, topped off the engine with coolant and went for a drive.

After the drive I noticed there was more coolant in the ball than when I started. I took off the cap and there was a very heavy vacuum/ suction on the tank and the coolant was bubbling. After removing the cap, the coolant began draining out of the ball and it sounded like crackling from coolant going into a sizzling engine block. I've tried burping the cooling system but the lower radiator hose remains empty like there is no coolant getting passed the thermostat.

Is there anything I'm overlooking? Or did I get a bad thermostat that is stuck closed? I've seen thermostats fail "open" as they should, but nothing like I'm experiencing.
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Old December 10th, 2016, 15:24   #2
Vince Waldon
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The factory manual used to recommend testing new t-stats in boiling water before installation. Dunno if it still does, but I do.

Since that's all you've changed, I might be inclined to at least start there, if only to rule it out.
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Old December 10th, 2016, 17:47   #3
maxmoo
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Could be the thermostat but it's rare....was it oem?
Or even more likely, IMO,..... these engines are prone to air lock..... are you sure you put as much coolant back in as you drained out?
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Old December 10th, 2016, 18:12   #4
V-DubLuv
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It was an ID Parts kit. I didn't drain any coolant except for taking off the coolant ball and Didn't lose a Whole lot since I worked quickly. ( too much effort to drain radiator with a panzer plate and lowered car)

I've done a couple thermostat changes on my golf with no problems. How do I get rid of the air aside from regular burping?
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Old December 11th, 2016, 07:14   #5
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I use my oil extractor to vacuum most of the air out of the system by connecting it to the small hose at the expansion tank until I get coolant.
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Old December 11th, 2016, 16:53   #6
2many diesels
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If you pulled the thermostat you lost coolant. Betting you are not bled out have have air trapped in the system.
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Old December 11th, 2016, 20:27   #7
V-DubLuv
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Lost about 1 1/2 cups of coolant. Had the new thermostat clipped into the housing ready to go as I pulled the old unit out, minimal spillage. I'll try to pull a vacuum on the return line in the morning. Thanks for the info
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Old December 12th, 2016, 06:01   #8
pdq import repair
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I like to fill the engine through the upper hose till full. Too easy to get airlocks in todays cars, not just VW. Hope the overheat didn't cost you a headgsket.
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Old December 12th, 2016, 16:22   #9
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Used my mity vac on the return line for the coolant ball until I was able to get some coolant through the line. Started the car and drove around until it was up to running temp but I am not getting any coolant through the return line. Looks like there is no coolant circulating?
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Old December 13th, 2016, 10:42   #10
wonneber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-DubLuv View Post
Used my mity vac on the return line for the coolant ball until I was able to get some coolant through the line. Started the car and drove around until it was up to running temp but I am not getting any coolant through the return line. Looks like there is no coolant circulating?
Drive it some more to see if it overheats.
Stay local just in case.
The dash gauge may say its up to temp but the dash gauge does not follow the ECU temp side of the temp sensor.
I've see it on mine in VAD.
With the cold weather the car may not produce enough heat at idle to open the thermostat.
Last thing if you do not see coolant returning in the small hose at the ball reserve the water pump impeller may not be turning.
Plastic impellers are known for this.
Was the water pump replaced recently.
I might have missed some of this.

Rich W.
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Old December 13th, 2016, 11:09   #11
TwinTurboKen
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I just did my thermostat last night. I let the block drain out of the thermostat hole replaced the tstat after it stopped draining, put the hose and housing back on and tightened down, rinsed the block with water and a funnel to clean off leaked coolant.

filled up the ball till it wouldn't drain down anymore and squeezed the upper hose and lower hose to help move coolant around and get bubbles out added more coolant as necessary.

then started up the car and used a stick against the seat and adjusted the seat recline forward to push the throttle to hold at 2k rpm and had heat on full blast until the car got to 190 on the gauge while monitoring return line flow and squeezing the hoses periodically.

Took the car on a 45 mile round trip drive last night and no issues. holds solid 190

You probably have air trapped. I would always leave the lid off the ball, and run the car hood open and throttle held down with a throttle stick or jerry rig something to hold down throttle to maintain around 1.8-2k RPM until the thermostat opens. If it doesn't open you have a problem and will know before it ever gets out to the road.
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Old December 13th, 2016, 17:43   #12
V-DubLuv
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Drove around with the lid off of the tank a couple times already. The water pump has a metal impeller on it but the car is about due for another timing belt. I am getting a foamy dribble on the return line at best, car doesn't seem to be over heating although it does smell "hot" if that makes sense.
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Tinted everything,Leather interior swap,Custom sound
Panzer plate FMJ, TT front end swap w/ 312mm brakes
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Old December 13th, 2017, 09:07   #13
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I'm having a similar problem. I changed the t-stat a couple of weeks ago because my Ultra Gauge was reading 195F which is hotter than normal, and during the Summer it would reach 200F if I was stuck in traffic. There is good flow coming out the return circuit of the resevoir, but my lower radiator hose is always cold. Cabin heat is good; so I think I may have an air pocket or a clogged radiator.
I would like to know the OP's outcome.
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Old December 13th, 2017, 10:12   #14
wonneber
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The lower hose should be the colder coolant from the radiator going into the engine.
I wouldn't be worried about 200 F in the summer.
If you get 200 F now I would worry.
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Old December 13th, 2017, 19:42   #15
UhOh
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I think that there are differences in t-stats. Wife's car runs about 5 degrees warmer than mine: about 195 vs. 190. Never an issue.
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