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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 29th, 2017, 11:28   #16
TDIFan1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
Why not just get a cover? My car sits outside every night, I never scrape a thing! Rain-X (or similar) on the glass, so nothing sticks, winter windshield cover if necessary, and deicer windshield washer fluid (with the heated nozzles), no problems. I know we do not get the amount of winter weather here that you guys do, but we do get some.
It will be better to show you in the video but I'll do my best to describe it here. Scraping off the outer windshield is no problem. It gets decently cold enough here that my breath freezes to the inside of the windshield and my front two windows so I'd be scraping off the outside and inside of the windshield and for quite a while. I could use the hairdryer but that takes time as well. That is why I'm trying to get as much heat to the windshield as early as I can. Part of the bonus with my system being in front of the original heater core is that it heats up the engine coolant a little bit faster too so then I can really get some heat cranking out. The aux heater puts out enough to help start defrosting immediately but it's a small system. I hadn't gone so far as to address those coolant heater plugs but now that you mention it, perhaps now would not be a bad time to check them out (not pulling any error codes from the ECU though).

Blacktree: Heated seat conversion wouldn't resolve the frost on the interior windows although I do have a USB plug in heated seat that does a decent job of keeping my butt toasty.

belome: 300 watts is about 1030.2 BTUs so about the same size as a small room air heater. Currently with the half operation of estimated 150 watts, that's still 515.1 BTUs. Conversion rate is 1 watt to 3.434 BTUs. I've felt the air coming out and it's about 70F-90F tops using the heater, where ambient currently is 50F.

vtpsd: In addition to the heater install, I suggest one of those plug in seat warming pads too. Even with them off, the foam acts as a barrier. The stock seats really are a heat sink.
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Old November 29th, 2017, 12:13   #17
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My girl did my commute with me all those years... she had a 12 volt electric blanket. It was better than nothing and was < $20.
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Old November 29th, 2017, 15:26   #18
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https://www.eshine.ca/products/carpr...ight-kit-100ml

Ran across a (indirect) reference of that from this discussion:

https://community.cartalk.com/t/how-...e-car/68932/26
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Old December 4th, 2017, 17:28   #19
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Update:

I did some testing with my multi-meter on the existing circuitry. I still have only half of the heater core connected. Initial tests on current were interesting, airflow was definitely affecting things.

Simply turning the unit on saw initial current draw at 14.5 Amps and a steady climb almost to 17 Amps without the fan running. I tested using the fan on low and discovered that even with the small airflow, the current would start at 14.5 Amps and climb but not as fast. Only with the fan on full blast would the Amp draw stay below 15 amps.

I found an ATC 30 Amp auto-reset circuit breaker which I intend to install into the circuit. I will have to keep in mind that the airflow should be at least 2 speed or higher when using the auxiliary heater. More testing to come, I'll try to keep you up to date. Hopefully with this new addition and knowledge I can go back to using the full heater core and the nuisance trips will be handled by the auto-reset circuit breaker.

Soonest I may be able to get a video going would be later this week (perhaps Friday) as the scheduled forecast is supposed to dip to -6C (~24F).
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Old December 13th, 2017, 05:47   #20
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And now, as promised, a very boring video of the electric Auxiliary Heater in action on a cold day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK20...ature=youtu.be
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Old December 16th, 2017, 15:41   #21
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I have my coolant glow plugs wired up with two switches so I can turn them on manually whenever I want heat quicker or need more heat when traveling at low speeds in very cold weather. It is very effective. Here is a link to some more info:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=269731
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Old December 17th, 2017, 10:28   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdq import repair View Post
I think retrofitting a mk5 PTC heater would be more effective. They are larger and more wattage. I have a mk5 with one and when my heater core plugged it did give some heat, but really very little overall. It barely kept the windshield clear.

I remember the air cooler "heater boosters" too. They were not very effective at all, but were easier to install.
You would want to consider an alternator upgrade. The Mk5 and up PTC heater is 1,000 watts, or about 80 amps worth of 12 volt power. It would be easy to overload the stock 120 amp alternator (or 90 if you have an automatic) when other accessories are running (like glow plug after-run).

I don't know if it would be an easy retrofit, but the 2012 - 2014 Passat's alternator is 180 amps. It's the biggest of the bunch, aside from the V10 TDI's water-cooled 190 amp unit.
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Old December 17th, 2017, 16:38   #23
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I can tell you why your fuse is blowing.

If the heater is rated at 300 Watts with 12 volts input, you can calculate the amperage used is 25 amps. 300 / 12 = 25.

Knowing that you can use Ohm's Law to calculate that the resistance of the heater is 0.48 Ohms. 0.48 = 12 / 25.

When the car is running, the electrical system actually provides as much as 14.4 Volts. Again, using Ohm's Law, you can calculate that the current flowing through a 0.48 Ohm load with 14.4 volts is 30 amps. 30 = 14.4 / 0.48.

So it's no surprise that the 30 amp fuse would blow, when exactly 30 amps is going through it some of the time.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/...its/dcp_2.html
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Old December 25th, 2017, 13:49   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeDubTDI View Post
You would want to consider an alternator upgrade. The Mk5 and up PTC heater is 1,000 watts, or about 80 amps worth of 12 volt power. It would be easy to overload the stock 120 amp alternator (or 90 if you have an automatic) when other accessories are running (like glow plug after-run).
I don't know if it would be an easy retrofit, but the 2012 - 2014 Passat's alternator is 180 amps. It's the biggest of the bunch, aside from the V10 TDI's water-cooled 190 amp unit.

You're absolutely correct about that potential upgrade with the Mk5 heater core. Ideally that would be the route to go but with the stock alternator, even 30 amp draw is a lot (assuming the stock one is 120 amps). If I went with the heater core upgrade, I know of a shop that specializes in rewiding alternators for higher amperage so I'd pay them for the work instead of trying to find a replacement.
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Old December 25th, 2017, 13:52   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_04GolfTDI View Post
I can tell you why your fuse is blowing.

If the heater is rated at 300 Watts with 12 volts input, you can calculate the amperage used is 25 amps. 300 / 12 = 25.

Knowing that you can use Ohm's Law to calculate that the resistance of the heater is 0.48 Ohms. 0.48 = 12 / 25.

When the car is running, the electrical system actually provides as much as 14.4 Volts. Again, using Ohm's Law, you can calculate that the current flowing through a 0.48 Ohm load with 14.4 volts is 30 amps. 30 = 14.4 / 0.48.

So it's no surprise that the 30 amp fuse would blow, when exactly 30 amps is going through it some of the time.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/...its/dcp_2.html

Yes, that is correct. I tested the flow with an ammeter and airflow affected things too. I could easily drop the amp draw from 14 to 12. The auto-reset fuse breaker is awesome for this. Takes about 60 seconds to reset it.
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