02 gas to diesel swap wont start

had a wagon donor, everything swapped from that car. deleted immo and i dont see where i have to manually wire anything

i have the car 100 percent together, it has the glow plug relay in the cowl by the windshield and it is getting power. car wont start i was wondering what exactly you have to wire because there is nothing that isnt connected. i used a mighty vac to prime injection pump and cracked the hard lines. think might be an air leak somewhere because after cranking it sounds like to fuel dumps back into the tank after done cranking, unless its from the return line. i am going to check this today. i am scratching my head and just want it done.
any feedback would be great thanks

Any codes?

There is cel but I won't be able to check it on my friends vag-com til tomorrow. Glow plug light comes on at first as it should but eventually blinks, but it was doing this in the donor car b4 I swapped it and it ran fine then

I only swapped the engine harness over not the whole cabin harness. My question is do i wire the 109 relay in to the fuse panel where the existing 3 blue wires go in the gasser harness? IE fuse 32,34,43. is there more than i have to do than that?

Really? No one has put a mk4 diesel in a mk4 gasser? No one can chime in here?

I do not know 100% what needs to be repin , but there is a few wires needs to be repin in engine wire harness.
Look at wiring diagram and you should find it.

It definitely is not plug n play. I had to switch a few wires around. Look closely at the T6 brown plenum connector. That's where most of (but not all of) the changes need to be made.

you are talking about the brown raintray connector? i am picking up a bentley manual today. my haynes doesnt help very much. i ran the 109 relay blue and yellow wire (ecu switched ground) to the blue raintray where it is supposed to go. did you have to run power to anything other than what was off the 109 relay?

I'm a little fuzzy. It was 2 years ago. I'm pretty sure I had to run J317 power into the back of the fuse box for one other thing. Bentley will show you what's up. Those diagrams are all over the place on here too.

Egr has been deleted but is still plugged in, whenever it runs will have it deleted on tune obviously.



Monday,28,July,2014,15:34:10:02882
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.2 (x64)
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 GN
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 4308
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 01266
VCID: 62C5A985EE44F30EED3-4AE6
5 Faults Found:
17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent
19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239)
P3105 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
16629 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
P0245 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17849 - EGR Valve (N18)
P1441 - 35-10 - Open Circuit or Short to Ground - Intermittent
18009 - Relay for Supply Voltage Terminal 30 (J317)
P1601 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
Readiness: 1 3 0 0 0

so i got my bentley last night and started making notes of raintray connectors, looking at the tdi cabin harness i have everything looks they way it should from what i can see. I installed an in tank fuel pump and attempted to start. was getting a lot of air. by the time i got a steady stream on 2 of the nozzles my battery crapped out . put it on the trickle charger for the night.

If anyone can give me advice on the wiring that might be an issue from these codes i posted it would be a great help. I am going crazy here

You need to replicate a J317 circuit on the car side. Do you know how to read the diagrams?

runonbeer said:

I'm a little fuzzy. It was 2 years ago. I'm pretty sure I had to run J317 power into the back of the fuse box for one other thing. Bentley will show you what's up. Those diagrams are all over the place on here too.

Click to expand...

I should have said: "...one other thing besides what the existing fat blue wire already provided..."

i ran power to those 3 blue wires from J317. i am new to reading the diagrams so its a bit overwhelming, but i can comprehend it for the most part. i will look again tonight to find that other wire. do you remember if it actually came off of the relay or was it just something else that needed power?

As it stands right now, I cleared the codes and nothing came back. Still shows Check engine light, but no codes come up. Immobilizer light still blinking even though it has been deleted and i switched the immo chip to my key fob from donor car.

and i am still getting air from the hard lines on the injectors while cranking. by the time i get a steady flow out of 1 or 2 the battery is toast. i replaced the little black lines and the nipple on the end aswell. I went to old school style fuel filter without the preheater valve and installed a check valve where that valve was.

I bled used mighty vac to try to get as much air out from the return from IP and still getting air. Is there any other step i could do? Every other car i have bled you get a steady stream with injectors cracked in only a matter of seconds.

So I pulled the glow plugs out so the motor could free spin while bleeding the injectors. This works amazing by the way and doesn't kill your battery instantly.

Anyway I still can't get this thing started, I double checked timing and everything is where it should be. Still no codes. I cleared the codes it had. I was wondering if they were a problem they should come right back right?

nobody has any input???

Its alive!! thanks to those who did give some input

So where was the bug?

in my brain. i am dumb. cam was 180 out. was the first time i ever did a timing belt in one. not quite sure how it happened but glad its running finally

I wish I could claim that I never put a 6.9 International injector pump in 180* out but I would be lying. Oddly enough it would run-sort of.

Glad you got it worked out.

Going on a week now. Runs Awesome! Only hiccup so far is the fuel gauge was off. Found that out the hard way by running out of fuel at around a 1/4 tank. Adjusted the level on vag-com and seems pretty good now.

I forgot to mention that I am running 764 nozzles
in tank fuel pump cause it was basically wired for it already
EGR delete (race pipe)
larger side mount intercooler
Custom 2.5 inch charge pipes on both sides of intercooler
2.5 inch custom stainless exhaust no cat or muffler
and .658 fifth gear
Single mass flywheel and Vr Clutch kit
I am on stock turbo and tune right now and I am pretty impressed with how it is already. Going to get Stage 3 Malone tune on thursday. Cant wait!

I know I dont really need 3 bar map sensor but i have one, (Unistalled of course). Would it benefit in any way to put it in while getting tuned? (letting tuner know obviously)

Its been 8 months since the swap and I couldn't be more happy with how it turned out. I got the Malone stage 3 tune and its great! Finally being able to pass people on the highway. The 2.0 was such a dog in the wagon. I also Made my own town hitch and bought Tractor Supply 5x8 utility trailer to downed trees that i cut up for firewood. This thing is a work horse! I will be taking it across to Wyoming to visit my buddy this summer. Cant wait!