1Z/AHU Billet CCV drain plates, shift knobs, and custom machining

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Thanks for the link, that'll give me a better idea of which direction to go.

And sure enough!


I really love having it there. I can use whatever power outlet I want, and just flip a switch to turn on my accessories (GPS and Radar detector for now). I'll probably utilize another hole for my EVRY mod, and hopefully get my high-idle mod going as well.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Update: A member here is taking 6 of the window guide clips. I'll let him do a thorough test run of these and then hopefully I'll be advertising them as a fully-tested product.

 

ketchupshirt88

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Location
waupaca, WI
TDI
2005 Passat daily, a bunch of others in the graveyard out back...
unfortunately that's where my cupholder is presently.

that switch plate looks nice though, maybe ill need to find a better place for my cupholder.




 

ketchupshirt88

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Location
waupaca, WI
TDI
2005 Passat daily, a bunch of others in the graveyard out back...
I have the gruven parts shift carrier but that just shortens side to side throw I think.

I actually did bust my knuckles on the 1st one. After adjusting a few dimensions I can say I don't hit it even if I'm shifting like I'm in fast n furious movie but my dad has wookie hands and he has to pull the cupholder out to drive it... lol

unfortunately it doesn't fit a big gulp, fits 20oz bottles fine though.

I still keep a flashlight, crescent wrench, screwdriver with multiple bits, etc in that cubby... just not stuff I need often.
 

turbovan+tdi

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Location
Abbotsford, BC.
TDI
2003 TDI 2.0L ALH, auto, silver wagon, lowered, Colt stage 2 cam, ported head,205 injectors, 1756 turbo, Malone 2.0, 3" exhaust, 18" BBS RC GLI rims. 2004 blue GSW TDI, 5 speed, lowered, GLI BBS wheels painted black, Malone stage 2, Aerotur

turbovan+tdi

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Location
Abbotsford, BC.
TDI
2003 TDI 2.0L ALH, auto, silver wagon, lowered, Colt stage 2 cam, ported head,205 injectors, 1756 turbo, Malone 2.0, 3" exhaust, 18" BBS RC GLI rims. 2004 blue GSW TDI, 5 speed, lowered, GLI BBS wheels painted black, Malone stage 2, Aerotur

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Since the exiting billet flange I have is going on our other B4 out of necessity, I need to order another one so I'm doing that now ;)
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
So there are 2-3 fittings you need to round out the billet flange and have it plug right into the system. As indicated in the first post, the flange have female threads for 3/4" NPT and 1/8" NPT barbs. The barbs should be 1" and 5/16" to mate to the stock hoses and the latter is best with a 45˚ or 90˚ angle, though only the former is practical with the flange.

Be aware that brass, zinc, and steel don't play nice with aluminum over the long term so if you can find straight aluminum fittings, that's perfect. If you're fine wit a little blue or red, you can pick up inexpensive 3/4" NPT to 1" barb fittings on Amazon in, well, blue or red. This matches a local surplus store giving me 2 blues with kinda crappy anodizing for $6 ea.

The 5/16" barb is a pain to find and the one Steve_Addy found here is your best bet for a 1 piece solution. If you want something more local, you can go with a 1/8" NPT to 1/8" NPT zinc plated steel 45˚ elbow from Amazon and add on a black anodized 5/16" barb too.

For the latter two use some sort of thread locker or sealant. From my research, Loctite 242/243 should be perfectly fine to use. Yes, you're dealing with an already oxidized surface, but if you run the threads of the fitting together, it'll scrap off the anodization and give you a more reactive surface. You can always pick up some primer too if you're more comfortable.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
So there are 2-3 fittings you need to round out the billet flange and have it plug right into the system. As indicated in the first post, the flange have female threads for 3/4" NPT and 1/8" NPT barbs. The barbs should be 1" and 5/16" to mate to the stock hoses and the latter is best with a 45˚ or 90˚ angle, though only the former is practical with the flange.
Be aware that brass, zinc, and steel don't play nice with aluminum over the long term so if you can find straight aluminum fittings, that's perfect. If you're fine wit a little blue or red, you can pick up inexpensive 3/4" NPT to 1" barb fittings on Amazon in, well, blue or red. This matches a local surplus store giving me 2 blues with kinda crappy anodizing for $6 ea.
The 5/16" barb is a pain to find and the one Steve_Addy found here is your best bet for a 1 piece solution. If you want something more local, you can go with a 1/8" NPT to 1/8" NPT zinc plated steel 45˚ elbow from Amazon and add on a black anodized 5/16" barb too.
For the latter two use some sort of thread locker or sealant. From my research, Loctite 242/243 should be perfectly fine to use. Yes, you're dealing with an already oxidized surface, but if you run the threads of the fitting together, it'll scrap off the anodization and give you a more reactive surface. You can always pick up some primer too if you're more comfortable.
I'm gonna post that where it's visible in the billet flange info. ;)
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
I just bought one of these to try myself just for kicks. I won't be putting it in my car though, I eventually sealed the pipe in with JB Kwik in order to stop a recurring leak. I'm running the first flange I ever prototyped, and the threads were a bit sloppy on that one.

But anyway, I have two flanges left out of the batch. Who knows if there will ever be another run.
 

john.jackson9213

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Location
Miramar, Ca. (Think Top Gun)
TDI
1996 B4V
I just bought one of these to try myself just for kicks. I won't be putting it in my car though, I eventually sealed the pipe in with JB Kwik in order to stop a recurring leak. I'm running the first flange I ever prototyped, and the threads were a bit sloppy on that one.

But anyway, I have two flanges left out of the batch. Who knows if there will ever be another run.
Yes, that is the problem with short runs of special stuff. Lots of interest, but not much money gets spent to make it worth while to do again. Really just too damn bad.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Another bump for some shift knobs - Starting at $75 each and can engrave nearly any text or design you specify for an added $25 programming fee. VW logos and shift patterns are included free. I can do any thread pitch or shaft diameter.



The Cummins is for a Dodge obviously, the the five-speed pattern is for a B4.



 
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thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
We're currently holding a Facebook contest to give away a shift knob. Here are the details, go to our page in order to enter.

Good news, fans - we're having another shift knob giveaway! All you have to do is post a great photo of your ride on our page, and on Friday the 8th at 3PM the most-liked photo will be announced winner! Below are the four styles of knobs we currently produce - you will have your pick of style and custom engraving - this is a $100 value!
Contest details: Likes can be solicited by any means, there are no restrictions upon who can vote. Although we specialize in Dodge trucks and a limited selection of TDIs, any type of vehicle can be entered into our contest. However, if we are unfamiliar with the vehicle, we must be supplied with either an exact thread pattern and shaft diameter, or a stock shift knob from which to obtain dimensions. Your knob will ship by Friday, April 22.


 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Well, I guess I'm making these now.

Billet serpentine belt tensioners. $75 for just the pulley, $100 if you need the 17mm bushing and sleeve, $115 if you want the whole thing assembled with a brand new bearing installed and ready to bolt on. Won't have a new bolt, so you'll want to keep that. ;)



This was designed from and for a 1Z engine, can anybody tell me what else this will fit?
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Made for the 6203 bearing, right? Is it possible ask for a 6303 one, as the 17 mm hub would need to be different. Just curious.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Sure, I just don't have one on me. haha Looks like it'll cost about $21 though. I'd be up for selling a whole 6303 assembly for $125 shipped. If you don't care to pay in advance I can certainly do that for you. I've got a lot of high-priority work coming in though, so by the time the bearing arrives it may be a week before I can finish it.
 

MonsterTDI09

TDIClub Enthusiast, Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Location
NoVa/NJ
TDI
2010 Jetta DSG/ up keep on 2009 Jetta DSG 2006 Jetta Pag 2 in North SEA Green
Nice job on window guide clips. Will the clip expand on a hot day and bind up on the track?
 

Mitchgomsu

Member
Joined
May 21, 2012
Location
The Beautiful "UP" of Michigan
TDI
97 Passat
A Shout-out to the Choochlyman...

Just wanted to say thanks to Charlie (Choochlyman) and to this TDICLUB as a whole for all the excellent knowledge shared on this sight. Charlie hooked me up with an aluminum Coolant Flange and block-off plate of excellent quality/workmanship and reasonable price. I am looking forward to many more miles of not worrying about that dang plastic flange cracking again! I have a couple pictures, but i'm not sure how to post them on here...
 
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