How to clean and re-key your B4 door lock

I have had some interest from people about how I re-key the door lock. I typically find door handles at the junkyard cheap, and since they are NLA (no longer available) from the dealer, I suspect more people will be finding them from junkyards. This same procedure is used to clean the tumblers

It is much easier with the key, but it can be done without the key as well, you just run the risk of tearing the protective switch cover on the door handle and messing up the lock tumblers. It is better if you have the key.

To start, remove the door handle from the door. It can be done with the door handle in place on the door, but it’s easier to clean with it removed.

On the inside of the door handle is a “C” latch that is held on with an E-clip. Pop the E-clip off and remove the C latch. It is actually 2 pieces with a spring in the middle but will come off as one piece. It’s not an issue to separate the pieces since they’re easy to reassemble later.

Starting with this (click on all pictures to enlarge):


And then with the C-latch removed:



Insert the key and rotate the lockset 180° in either direction, then push on the back of the lockset and the assembly will come out towards the key.



With the assembly out, remove the key and the tumblers will go back to their neutral position. I like to do this on a clean paper towel so I can line up the tumblers in the same order, so it’ll be easier to put them back in (if I’m just cleaning them) but the order won’t matter if you’re re-keying the lock. These were pretty grungy and they didn't like to move, so it needed a good cleaning and readjustment.



Remove the tumblers one at a time, they are not held in with anything and come right out.



There is also a tiny spring on one side that causes them to pop up when the key is not inserted, remove it as well.





Clean everything well so it’ll move easier. I didn’t bother to clean the parts with my ultrasonic cleaner since I wanted to show that anyone can do this with no special tools, so I used some hot water with dish soap in an old coffee container and it worked great.



On the inside of the door handle, take special care around the microswitch on the door or you’ll tear the silicone cover to it, which will let water in, causing corrosion and malfunctions. I used a battery brush to clean the inside but did not go so far as to touch the microswitch.



Here you can see the microswitch, which is non-removable.



(Continue to part II)

(Continued from Part I)

Once everything is clean and dried, you can lube the parts and start reassembly, I prefer graphite in a liquid carrier, which can be found at any hardware or lock store inexpensively. The liquid will evaporate and leave the graphite behind. Using an oil or other heavy liquid will result in the sticky mess I started with. If just cleaning the lockset, put everything back in the proper order and try the key to make sure it lines up the tumblers correctly. If re-keying the lock, you have a little more work ahead of you.

To re-key the lock, start by putting a spring in one of the holes and then inserting a tumbler, then the key. If the tumbler does not sit flush with the housing when the key is inserted, you have the wrong one and need to try another.

Tumbler and spring inserted, but no key.



Key inserted, tumbler is in the wrong place since it is not flush with the housing when the key is inserted.



Different tumbler inserted, now it's correct because it sits flush with the housing.



There are only 4 sized tumblers that VW uses, so it’s pretty easy to find the right one. If your keys are very worn like ours, you can file a small amount off the bottom or top of the tumbler to get it to sit flush. There are 10 tumblers in the lockset, some go in from the bottom and some from the top. Since we live in Maine where auto theft isn’t a huge priority, I chose to not return all 10 of the tumblers to the lockset, which will keep the lock turning easily in very cold conditions, which will keep the wife happy, and thus me happy. I keep spare tumblers and junkyard locks in a container just in case I need additional parts when re-keying a lock.

To reassemble, insert the key, which will zero-out all the tumblers in the carrier, and insert it into the door handle at a 90° angle, then rotate it into place. You’ll hear the clock of the microswitch as it rotates into place.







Reattach the c-latch assembly on the back. I attach the spring to the outer c-latch assembly first, so each tang is to either side of the nub sticking out and the spring is under compression. It’ll be apparent when you see it. Then I put the inner c-latch on it, and then the whole works goes on the end of the lockset and is held on with the E-clip, which you insert until it seats. The C-latch will only go on one way, but look to the picture above for the correct orientation.

That's it, time to put it back in the door.

Very clean write up sir

Wow! Nice job. I haven't been able to get the front part of the handle free from the door. The end with a big screw is easy. I can't get the other end free! Any suggestions? I must be missing something.

It tilts out and rotates on the front part, so that's the last that is removed from the door and the first to go into place.

Some useful pics and such in a thread I made over on the vortex:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5540859-DIY-R-amp-R-Door-Handle-and-Lock-Cylinder

Good add to the info in this thread.

Is it possible to buy a new cam plate? Last time I let that friend unlock my car...

I have never looked into that. I am sure I probably have an extra one laying around though... I have a box full of handles, i tend to collect them.

Nice. I've been using the microswitch's trigger to unlock the door so it's no worry.

What are you calling the 'cam plate'? I probably have one (or a few) kicking around.

What you call the C-Latch. He called it the cam plate in his thread.

I have one then, but it'll be used.

About to try re-keying one of my door handles. Before I do, tried the lock assembly removal for practice on another non-working handle I picked up somewhere. I do have the key, but with key in at 90 degree turn of the assembly, the lock does not come out, but at 180 degree turn with the key the lock assembly comes right out. Am I doing something wrong? I do see the little shelf that sits above the micro switch, not sure if it's all there. This handle had a sheet metal screw stuck in where the roll pin goes, the wires were also cut,, so maybe I'm using a bad part to try this on?

No, it should be 180°. I'm not sure why I wrote that and gave corrected it.

I read this great article, and wonder how do i get the tumbler out of the one from the junk yard as i did not get a key?
Appreciate any advice.

I haven't been able to do it without a key :/ Broke a plastic tab off every time. Have been thinking about taking one to a locksmith though. They have the tools to unlock it.

Just did this yesterday, nice write up. I think the cylinder comes out with any key that fits, I used the wrong key in an extra one I had to slide it out. The key being inserted causes the tumblers to come in enough to slide the cylinder out but not turn.

Digital Corpus said:

Is it possible to buy a new cam plate? Last time I let that friend unlock my car...

Click to expand...

Yes it is possible. 3A0-898-083-A is the kit. In German it is called Kleinteilesatz per the package. It has a spring, two cam plates, a clip and two round seals. I did not find out what the seals were for. I suspect if I had pulled the tumbler they may have sealed the opening somehow. Still available in early 2018 when I bought.

Diesel_Aggie said:

Yes it is possible. 3A0-898-883-A is the kit. In German it is called Kleinteilesatz per the package. It has a spring, two cam plates, a clip and two round seals. I did not find out what the seals were for. I suspect if I had pulled the tumbler they may have sealed the opening somehow. Still available in early 2018 when I bought.

Click to expand...

That number isn't bringing up anything, on google or at VW dealer parts finder, you sure that it's correct?

Steve

Thanks for catching that. Corrected number in original post. Correct number is 3A0-898-083-A

While VW now shows many B4 parts we need as NLA, I just received:

• Front passenger door handle: 357 837 224A 07

• Window lifter regulator: 3A0 837 461

• Repair Kit door handle Right side : 357 898 084 A

• Repair Kit door handle Left side : 357 898 083 A

In desperation I asked a friend in Germany to order from his local VAG dealer and was pleasantly surprised that all these parts plus others that are NLA here are all still readily available from VW dealerships there.

lisab4 said:

I haven't been able to do it without a key :/ Broke a plastic tab off every time. Have been thinking about taking one to a locksmith though. They have the tools to unlock it.

Click to expand...

After reading this string of comments, I took my newly purchased OEM handle to a locksmith. Like you say above, locksmith had the correct tools -- quickly removed the cylinder from the old handle, installed it into new handle and re-keyed it.

I thought i can still buy these, yes aftermarket, HAS ANYONE TRIED THEM?
thx
Theo

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/3A0837207C

theodore said:

I thought i can still buy these, yes aftermarket, HAS ANYONE TRIED THEM?
thx
Theo
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/3A0837207C

Click to expand...

Yep, I've battled with lots of them. Since the OEM's are NLA, they're a viable replacement, just don't be surprised when they don't work without tweaking and die a very early death.

Most die in about 2 years although one on a drivers door lasted 5 years but was completely dead and I was amazed it still worked.

Parts are not in proper alignment, nor are they the right size.






The tumblers are steel and not brass, so they rust if not kept lubed. If not lubed, it turns into a ball of rust that won't accept the key. They are also much thinner, so the steel ones will fit in the OEM housings, but the OEM tumblers will not fit in the aftermarket locksets, so they're much harder to re-key.

The metal is weaker which means they wear out quicker. The tolerances are also greater, so they tend to be a lot sloppier. Roll pins pop out and need to be replaced or secured with Loctite, the actuator becomes dislodged, and springs snap.




But they're better than nothing.