Bob S.
Top Post Dawg
A5 BRM Harness Chafe ECU to engine. Many codes & G28 CkPS
On edit.: 7/27/12. Links to photos below..
1. I had multiple chafe points in my harness. The most common chafe point is the first loom clamp of the engine/trans assembly above above the starter solenoid. I, and some others had chafe further up the loom as it crossed horizontally and than runs up vertically. Each chafe point that I am aware of was at a point where the loom was clamped.
2. The BRM harness layout is such that the heavier gage conductors are in the center, or core, of the harness. The lesser gage (sensor signal and twisted pairs) are around the circumference the harness core. The harness root and size is such that it is not very flexible. The stresses, movement & weight are point loaded at the supports, ECU, and the junction near the left head (opposite side from the timing belt). The plastic of the split looms is harder then the conductor insulation. Therefore, when chafe occurs, the very small gage, .35 mm (or about 26 to 28 ga.) signal conductor’s insulation is sacrificed to the split loom and harness movement is carried by the smallest wires with the least insulation.
3. I have learned of other BEW & BRM engines which have experienced similar problems. The last count that i had was in excess of 60+ BRMs with this issue and a lesser number of BEWs. I have not established if the 2.0T &/or the 2.5 gassers have similar problems. Some have filed a complaint with the NTSB as have I.
4. I filed a warranty claim with VW; which VW promptly denied. If others are filing a similar complaint, please feel free to PM me as I will be more than happy to provide you with my file number so that you may establish a pattern. I am appealing the warranty denial (As others have said, VW’s warranty is not good for much).
5. Oilhammer's comment that the 2g28 sensor rarely goes bad is spot on. It is a bugger to access and R&R on the BEW & BRM's. If you are suspecting a problem there, you may save o lot of time by checking your harness first.
6. The BRM (or at least mine) will definitely run without the G28 signal. Apparently, as it uses the cam speed sensor as reference in the absence of the G28 crank sensor. Without the G28 sensor connected (or with a faulty signal) the start is much, much slower with an extended cranking time.
7. The Ground Points list posted in page #1 is as listed in Bentley’s. My car does not have a ground wire at every attachment point. Many ground points had multiple grounds connected thereto. Other, albeit, unused ground studs exist on the A5 platform as I found numerous such points when checking the Bentley’s listed points. The problems my car experienced were a result of harness chafe not ground point/corrosion related.
8. There was a disparity in the fuse numbering and purpose between what actually exists in my car and those shown in my owner’s manual and in Bentley’s. Bentley’s and the owner’s manual did not agree either. The owner of a similar production period A5 informed me of the same thing. I encourage every A5 owner to photograph their fuse blocks for recordation purposes.Much thanks to assistance and direction in repairing this problem to: Dan, Rich, Joe, Brian, Oliver, Jeff R., Ross-Tech, Impex and especially to Fred for this site which made this (and other past ones) repair so much easier to diagnosis & repair. A donation was made as way of thanks.
While I cannot verify it, my suspicion is that this condition had been developing for quite a while, perhaps back to about 20K. miles or so. Very occasionally, the car would very rough, almost as if it were out of time. As the condition could not be replicated and occurred occasionally, I figured it was just one of those things. The discoloration in the chafed copper conductors indicated that the condition had been developing for a long period of time. If you have concerns, your may want to voice it to VW. See Brian’s post re. the NTSB. I hope of other's sake that mine, Brian's & the others I happened into are isolated failures. But, BEW & BRM owners: Heads Up.
Similar summary posted 74 & 75. Photo links:
http://http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52153&title=brm-ecm-harness-&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52154&title=inside-split-loom&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52155&title=chafed-ecm-signal-wire&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52156&title=chafed-ecm-signal-wire&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52157&title=chafed-ecm-signal-wire&cat=500
Original Post #1: 06.5 PD. 63.9K miles on the clock. Stock w/ RC1+ for the past 60K miles. No issues until last week.
Car ran fine. Parked for about 45 min. Restarted but a soft stall when pulling out into traffic. Immediately restarted. About 100' later oil alarm goes off. Pull to the the side, Oil level is fine. Restart. Same thing about 200 yards later, now I am watching the cluster. Just before the oil light goes off, the engines dies/misses/restarts. In trying to figure it out. Several things happen, sometimes the order varies. Start, sometimes a hard start, engine runs, flutters, tach may or may not fall to zero as the engine runs, & oil light may or may not go off. The engine is usually happy @ idle, but does not like a load. B/C not liking the load, I R&R the fuel filter. Problem remains.
Anyway, fast forward to a day or 2 later when I have time to vagcom, the code is an intermittent engine speed sensor, G28, 000802 P0322.
I run all the searches, find lots of info. To make a long story short. The most similar fault pattern resembled that in the A4, BEW ECU flash & additional ground wire threads. So, I swap out the battery with a known good one, w/ a charge topped off >13. VDC. 14+ VDC when running. Check & clean the grounds in the engine bay. Problem remains. I did run across this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=235472 & called Impex who told me that the speed sensor shows that it was superceeded. So, while I know that Oilhammer has posted that these are not a high failure item, I purchased & installed one. When apart, the connections, harness, etc. all looked good. No visible chafe points, corrosion, etc.
Unfortunately, the problem remained. I go back & recheck the grounds & go up into under the cowling this time to check those grounds. The ECU does not appear to have a separate ground. Rather, it appears to be using it's metal bracket as the ground path. The ground stud @ the right (passenger) side does not have anything attached to it but is listed in Bentley as a ground point. Bentley also lists a ground @ the right cylinder head that I am unable to find.
Currenly, I am getting 1 of 2 codes and a randomly alternating basis: 1) 000802, Engine Speed Sensor, G28, P0322, No, or intermittent signal, V14.44 & 2) 000801, Engine Speed Sensor, G28, P0321, implausible signal, V10.76V.
Has anyone run into this yet on a BRM? Any information on hidden ground points that are not in Bentley? about the pass. side ground stud w/ no wire? ECU ground path? Any hidden grounds under the battery tray (as is on the A4)? Relay problems that I am unaware of?
At this juncture, I am inclined to install a new/additional ground from the ECU bracket to the ground stud drivers side near the strut. Thanks in advance for any info.
On edit.: 7/27/12. Links to photos below..
1. I had multiple chafe points in my harness. The most common chafe point is the first loom clamp of the engine/trans assembly above above the starter solenoid. I, and some others had chafe further up the loom as it crossed horizontally and than runs up vertically. Each chafe point that I am aware of was at a point where the loom was clamped.
2. The BRM harness layout is such that the heavier gage conductors are in the center, or core, of the harness. The lesser gage (sensor signal and twisted pairs) are around the circumference the harness core. The harness root and size is such that it is not very flexible. The stresses, movement & weight are point loaded at the supports, ECU, and the junction near the left head (opposite side from the timing belt). The plastic of the split looms is harder then the conductor insulation. Therefore, when chafe occurs, the very small gage, .35 mm (or about 26 to 28 ga.) signal conductor’s insulation is sacrificed to the split loom and harness movement is carried by the smallest wires with the least insulation.
3. I have learned of other BEW & BRM engines which have experienced similar problems. The last count that i had was in excess of 60+ BRMs with this issue and a lesser number of BEWs. I have not established if the 2.0T &/or the 2.5 gassers have similar problems. Some have filed a complaint with the NTSB as have I.
4. I filed a warranty claim with VW; which VW promptly denied. If others are filing a similar complaint, please feel free to PM me as I will be more than happy to provide you with my file number so that you may establish a pattern. I am appealing the warranty denial (As others have said, VW’s warranty is not good for much).
5. Oilhammer's comment that the 2g28 sensor rarely goes bad is spot on. It is a bugger to access and R&R on the BEW & BRM's. If you are suspecting a problem there, you may save o lot of time by checking your harness first.
6. The BRM (or at least mine) will definitely run without the G28 signal. Apparently, as it uses the cam speed sensor as reference in the absence of the G28 crank sensor. Without the G28 sensor connected (or with a faulty signal) the start is much, much slower with an extended cranking time.
7. The Ground Points list posted in page #1 is as listed in Bentley’s. My car does not have a ground wire at every attachment point. Many ground points had multiple grounds connected thereto. Other, albeit, unused ground studs exist on the A5 platform as I found numerous such points when checking the Bentley’s listed points. The problems my car experienced were a result of harness chafe not ground point/corrosion related.
8. There was a disparity in the fuse numbering and purpose between what actually exists in my car and those shown in my owner’s manual and in Bentley’s. Bentley’s and the owner’s manual did not agree either. The owner of a similar production period A5 informed me of the same thing. I encourage every A5 owner to photograph their fuse blocks for recordation purposes.Much thanks to assistance and direction in repairing this problem to: Dan, Rich, Joe, Brian, Oliver, Jeff R., Ross-Tech, Impex and especially to Fred for this site which made this (and other past ones) repair so much easier to diagnosis & repair. A donation was made as way of thanks.
While I cannot verify it, my suspicion is that this condition had been developing for quite a while, perhaps back to about 20K. miles or so. Very occasionally, the car would very rough, almost as if it were out of time. As the condition could not be replicated and occurred occasionally, I figured it was just one of those things. The discoloration in the chafed copper conductors indicated that the condition had been developing for a long period of time. If you have concerns, your may want to voice it to VW. See Brian’s post re. the NTSB. I hope of other's sake that mine, Brian's & the others I happened into are isolated failures. But, BEW & BRM owners: Heads Up.
Similar summary posted 74 & 75. Photo links:
http://http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52153&title=brm-ecm-harness-&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52154&title=inside-split-loom&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52155&title=chafed-ecm-signal-wire&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52156&title=chafed-ecm-signal-wire&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52157&title=chafed-ecm-signal-wire&cat=500
Original Post #1: 06.5 PD. 63.9K miles on the clock. Stock w/ RC1+ for the past 60K miles. No issues until last week.
Car ran fine. Parked for about 45 min. Restarted but a soft stall when pulling out into traffic. Immediately restarted. About 100' later oil alarm goes off. Pull to the the side, Oil level is fine. Restart. Same thing about 200 yards later, now I am watching the cluster. Just before the oil light goes off, the engines dies/misses/restarts. In trying to figure it out. Several things happen, sometimes the order varies. Start, sometimes a hard start, engine runs, flutters, tach may or may not fall to zero as the engine runs, & oil light may or may not go off. The engine is usually happy @ idle, but does not like a load. B/C not liking the load, I R&R the fuel filter. Problem remains.
Anyway, fast forward to a day or 2 later when I have time to vagcom, the code is an intermittent engine speed sensor, G28, 000802 P0322.
I run all the searches, find lots of info. To make a long story short. The most similar fault pattern resembled that in the A4, BEW ECU flash & additional ground wire threads. So, I swap out the battery with a known good one, w/ a charge topped off >13. VDC. 14+ VDC when running. Check & clean the grounds in the engine bay. Problem remains. I did run across this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=235472 & called Impex who told me that the speed sensor shows that it was superceeded. So, while I know that Oilhammer has posted that these are not a high failure item, I purchased & installed one. When apart, the connections, harness, etc. all looked good. No visible chafe points, corrosion, etc.
Unfortunately, the problem remained. I go back & recheck the grounds & go up into under the cowling this time to check those grounds. The ECU does not appear to have a separate ground. Rather, it appears to be using it's metal bracket as the ground path. The ground stud @ the right (passenger) side does not have anything attached to it but is listed in Bentley as a ground point. Bentley also lists a ground @ the right cylinder head that I am unable to find.
Currenly, I am getting 1 of 2 codes and a randomly alternating basis: 1) 000802, Engine Speed Sensor, G28, P0322, No, or intermittent signal, V14.44 & 2) 000801, Engine Speed Sensor, G28, P0321, implausible signal, V10.76V.
Has anyone run into this yet on a BRM? Any information on hidden ground points that are not in Bentley? about the pass. side ground stud w/ no wire? ECU ground path? Any hidden grounds under the battery tray (as is on the A4)? Relay problems that I am unaware of?
At this juncture, I am inclined to install a new/additional ground from the ECU bracket to the ground stud drivers side near the strut. Thanks in advance for any info.
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