Got a P047A Exhaust Pressure Sensor

This is my second Jetta Diesel... I'm a newbie to this forum...
Soo I bought this 2009 Jetta TDI Sportwagen that has 230,000 miles. The car looks new because it was garaged. I drove from Virginia to North Dakota and got 40 mpg.... Much better than my Chevrolet Duramax that I left at home...
The car was very well maintained... I have the records.
On my way back the car ran excellent and still does but my check engine light came on... The orange light that has the motor symbol...
I took it to OReillys Auto Parts because I know they had the code reader and the guy gave me the codes
#1- the dreaded P0401 EGR flow insufficient detected and
#2- P047A exhaust pressure sensor
I ordered the sensor 076 906 051A after reading posts on this forum.
My question is after I install the new exhaust pressure sensor- the one under the engine cover wrapped in aluminum is A so I read. I have access to a obdII scanner from a guy at work... How do I reset the engine computer to know its communicating with the new sensor. Do I just clear the faults and then it makes the light go out? Can I do it with the obdII scanner or do I need a VCDS?

Thanks in advance. Back fast

backfast61 said:

Can I do it with the obdII scanner or do I need a VCDS?

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I am afraid you will need VCDS to adapt the new sensor. With any luck there is someone near you who can help. I hope that EGR fault doesn't cause additional problems.

Have Fun!

Don

The P047A if you are under the 120K miles it will be replaced by VW at no cost to you. I had a 09 for a short time got that code after 4 days of driving. The EGR I can not help you with

Need a VCDS in North Dakota

So when I get the sensor installed ,can I drive the car 60 miles to the shop and get it tuned in with VCDS or should I just let them install it? Out here in the oilfield these people are really trying to get rich off the workers... Prices are soo overinflated!
There are no VW shops, dealerships around here. I found a shop that works on foreign cars that has VCDS...
How much should this cost - to install the sensor and program with VCDS?
Thanks in advance, Backfast :confused

Just have the shop install the sensor and do adaption and basic settings for all sensors.
And do a drive regen . I can tell you the P0401 will come back 99% shore of it. If the tail pipe is black to the touch DPF is shoot.

I just got the Engine light and it I will verify with the VW Dealer, if they will replace it for free, that would be awesome.

it's cover with the emissions letter that we got few weeks ago?

Now, the question is can I drive the car without any problems? I guess so but I want to double check.

Thanks for the information.

Geist296 said:

The P047A if you are under the 120K miles it will be replaced by VW at no cost to you. I had a 09 for a short time got that code after 4 days of driving. The EGR I can not help you with

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Jettawolfs98 said:

I just got the Engine light and it I will verify with the VW Dealer, if they will replace it for free, that would be awesome.

it's cover with the emissions letter that we got few weeks ago?

Now, the question is can I drive the car without any problems? I guess so but I want to double check.

Thanks for the information.

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the letter for the exhaust flap came quite a while ago.

recent letter is for the HPFP.

both are good for 120,000 miles only.

your first step is to find out what, exactly, the light is on for (which errors are logged)

Soo I installed the new sensor...

I went on eBay and bought a brand new Bosch exhaust pressure sensor from a VW DEALER .($45 dollars) I installed it. It was the A exhaust pressure sensor...I had a friend who's a mechanic who has a OBD scanner clear the faults and the check engine light went out. It has stayed off ( two weeks tomorrow)and I just made it back to VA(1830 miles) and got 40.9 mpg. I did nothing else because I did not have access to the RossTech VCDS. I did not have my new sensor recognized but apparently it worked !

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but it appears I have this issue as well. I will be calling the VW dealer next week to see what they say, but AutoZone code scanner says it's sensor B. There is quite a lot of conflict as to which one is Sensor B. Anyone have confirmation?

Based on this video, it is the one under the engine cover:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0d0YPDRsuo

That is consistent with what I saw on my 2009 TDI.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4990022&postcount=189

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4994445&postcount=193

look for another video on how to remove the electric connectors.

there is some discussion that later cars had re-routed the sensor feed tubing to switch which pressure sensor is which.

you could think about disconnecting one of the pressure sensor electric plugs and validate the errors which then are logged.

Thanks again Mike for the help! I wonder if clearing the code is truly necessary as I don't have the right tools to do so. I guess I could again disconnect the battery to clear the code.

I do not think it is required. (and disconnecting the battery will not clear the codes)

there is an adaptation for the other pressure sensor, but not for the one your error is for.

Just get the right part. give whoever you get it from your VIN and make sure they tell you it is the right part.

it might take a couple drives, but the car will decide the sensor is working and turn off the check engine light when the sensor works.

That's good news. I'll try IDparts.com again, but the site appears to be down for the holidays.

I'm still having trouble getting IDparts.com to load. I have to refresh at least once each page. I finally did find the part, but it says:

Even through there are two sensor codes, G450 and G451 and there are two sensors in the car, they are the same part number and are interchangable.

This sensor is not interchangeable with the "B" sensor.

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What am I to make of that?

They updated the parts on later cars. but you cannot mix and match versions on the same car, or put the later version on an earlier car.

the parts for a specific car will either get a sensor with an A suffix, or a B suffix on the part number.

you really need to make sure wherever you get the part, they access the VW database and get the right sensor for your car by using the VIN to look it up in the VW database.

I think idparts will do this for you, or you can use any of a few dealers with online presences.

I got my sensor from vwpartscenter.net. they really only like to interact via the web site.

idparts seems happy to discuss over the phone. they should be back in the office tomorrow.

ok, so perhaps instead of the 076906051a I need to be looking for 076906051b? The error code is for sensor B.

jesus_man said:

ok, so perhaps instead of the 076906051a I need to be looking for 076906051b? The error code is for sensor B.

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As I understand it, 2009 (CBEA engines) require the -A version of the sensor and 2010+ (CJAA engines) require the -B version of that little differential pressure sensor. The same sensor (A or B) is used in both locations, but they must be the correct version for the model year engine.
If you are working on a 2009 car, do not get the -B version.

Have Fun!

Don

jesus_man said:

ok, so perhaps instead of the 076906051a I need to be looking for 076906051b? The error code is for sensor B.

Click to expand...

don't try to compare the letter in the error code to the letter on the part number.

Will know tomorrow based on a VIN vertifcation. Or may call the local dealer today for a price quote.

Just to let you since I started this post I have been driving with the cel light on... I had a friend of mine reset it with VCDS around 3 mos. ago. The light came back on with in 30 miles of driving... I have just gotten used to driving with the cel on. i have 255000 miles now and I'm going to let VW buy it back ... The car is very reliable and has never gone into limp mode again since I replaced the exhaust flap valve after reading about that on this forum as well... The car has too many sensors for me but I will just drive it and enjoy it till vw buys it back... Still waiting to hear back from vw..!

It's so unfortunate that the EPA has been allowed to overstep their bounds and force these particular oil burners to be so chocked down with emissions junk that they fall short of their true potential.

I am hoping to keep mine for quite a while longer, but it can't start nickel and diming me. I should have a new sensor at my doorstep early this coming week and I'll make the time to swap it on.

We try to stay out of politics here.

meerschm said:

We try to stay out of politics here.

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Yeah, that is generally a good idea.

I rec'd my new sensor yesterday, and while it had an extra mounting tab, I sawed that off and proceeded with the R&R. Based on the video in post #9, I had good success. I'd like to add a couple comments:

1. Save yourself some headache and get a set of male torx bits for your ratchet. 1/4" might make the most sense, but 1/2" wouldn't be a bad idea either.
(https://smile.amazon.com/30PC-Male-...1484244285&sr=8-1&keywords=male+1/4"+torx+bit)

2. The T40 is the only screw holding the bracket in place. There is a washer in there that is now resting someplace unreachable on my car. Watch for that.

3. It takes very little force on the plug catch to release it. Do be careful and apply a pushing force to disconnect the plug while lightly lifting the release.

I removed the T40 screw freeing up the bracket, then removed the hoses (had good success with a small pair of channel locks to release clamp), unplugged it, then removed the sensor from the bracket.

After several start cycles the CEL went out, but it did this with the faulty sensor too, so time will tell if it comes back. If I don't update the thread, you can assume it's running good!

jesus_man said:

I rec'd my new sensor yesterday, and while it had an extra mounting tab, I sawed that off and proceeded with the R&R. Based on the video in post #9, I had good success. I'd like to add a couple comments:
1. Save yourself some headache and get a set of male torx bits for your ratchet. 1/4" might make the most sense, but 1/2" wouldn't be a bad idea either.
(https://smile.amazon.com/30PC-Male-...1484244285&sr=8-1&keywords=male+1/4"+torx+bit)
2. The T40 is the only screw holding the bracket in place. There is a washer in there that is now resting someplace unreachable on my car. Watch for that.
3. It takes very little force on the plug catch to release it. Do be careful and apply a pushing force to disconnect the plug while lightly lifting the release.
I removed the T40 screw freeing up the bracket, then removed the hoses (had good success with a small pair of channel locks to release clamp), unplugged it, then removed the sensor from the bracket.
After several start cycles the CEL went out, but it did this with the faulty sensor too, so time will tell if it comes back. If I don't update the thread, you can assume it's running good!

Click to expand...

My two cents after fixing my sensor on my 2009 TDI JSW:
1. There are two washers on the T40 screw, one against the screw head, the other against the mount. When I carefully and slightly lifted up the bracket after loosening, only one washer fell in to my hand. The other was firmly stuck to the bracket (?from all the heat).
2. HIGHLY recommended a little squirt of penetrating lube (WD40, etc) on the hoses, to help extract the bad sensor. If you break them off like I did, the PITA factor exponentially changes!! As the youtube video says, "they didn't want to give up the ghost"
Took me about 1 1/2 hours, including salvaging the broken tips.
Picture showing the old part (with original part#) and new part number from idparts.com

I found my washer when I changed my oil.

I was able to use enough twisting action on the hoses and sensor to free the hoses grip on the barbs. Perhaps mine were not as stubborn. I was more worried about severing the hoses as I can imagine they would be a real PITA to replace.