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I poured thru countless threads until I gathered enough info to install my heated seats in my 02 Jetta. Now that they are in and working properly, I thought I would contribute so others might not have to spend as much time as I did doing the research before beginning the job.
Disclaimer - do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for what you do to your car. If is possible for the air bags to be deployed from static discharge even when the car's battery is disconnected.
I want to thank Oldpoopie and G60ING for the pictures I borrowed from their threads.
I used the wiring harness from Kufatec: http://kufatec.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_11&products_id=17
You will also need drivers and passenger side switches for the dash, an inline blade fuse holder, a 7.5 a and a 15 a blade fuse, solder, soldering torch, heat shrink, and of course a pair of heated seats. The airbag connector changed in 2002.5 (the year of both of my Jettas) so if using post 02.5 seats in a pre 02.5 car, you will need to repin a new connector housing to match. That info is not in this thread.
There were 4 connections to be made inside the dash, you will need an ohm meter since all the wires in the pre-made harness are the same color.
Step 1 - remove negative battery terminal (isn't that what the manuals always say for step one
)
Step 2 - remove the driver's side lower dash covers, side cover, and inner metal panel below steering column with your torx driver.
Step 3 - remove center dash vent cover by gently pulling the corners with your fingers and it will pop right out. Remove the seats by removing the 2 nuts at the base of the front of each seat (13mm socket) and the plastic trim strips over the seat rails with one phillips screw hiding under the small round cover. Lift the front of the seat, unplug the harness from the seat, slide it back and out of the rails. Remove the rear portion of the center console at this time also (the part under the Ebrake handle) You will need to remove the arm rest to do this. Also at this time, remove the trim on the kick panel on the drivers side, and the sill cover.
Step 4 - get out the mulitmeter. I actually did this before I started working inside the car. You will have a ring terminal, a wire with a preinstalled fuse panel terminal, 2 wires with no terminals installed, and a wire with a fuse panel end on one side and a ring terminal on the other. Using the ohm meter, identify and label the 2 wires without terminals, the one that goes to pin 1 on the seat connectors is for dimmed power, the one that goes to pin 5 on the seat connectors is for 7.5 a switched power. Also ID which switch and heat connectors go to each other by checking continuity between pin 2 of the switch connector and pin 5 of the seat connector and label them accordingly. TIP - the seat connector with the longest wire harness is for the passenger side See diagram below:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Using solder and heat shrink, attach a large ring terminal to the inline fuse holder on one end and attach the other end to the wire that goes to pin 5 on the seat connector. The ring terminal end of this will connect to stud 75X on the car's interior power distribution block.
Step 5 - Route the wires behind the center of the dash so the switch connectors come out above the radio, connect them to the switches in the vent cover, reinstall the vent cover, then follow the factory wiring bundle with the rest of the harness behind the dash. Continue routing thru the kick panel area and under the sill plate area, then under the carpet, with the drivers connector coming out where the rest of the wires for the seat comes out of the carpet. Continue routing the pass side over the hump under the carpet and out the pass side seat harness hole in the carpet.
Step 6 - Time to make the dash electrical connections. See pic below. Place the factory installed ring terminal from your harness to the dash ground. It is an acorn nut (10mm socket) under the steering column with 2 other brown wires already there. Place the extra single wire provided with the ring on one end and fuse panel end on the other, ring to unswitched power 30 on the distribution block (10mm socket) and fuse end into the left side of fuse 44 area of fuse panel. Place the wire on the pre-made harness with the fuse connector in the right side of fuse 44 hole( as seen from the fuse side). It just snaps in the back, make sure it is fully seated. Install the 15 amp fuse here. Place the ring terminal you installed on the inline fuse to switched power 75X (10mm socket). Install 7.5 amp fuse in the holder. The dimmed power wire will go to the dimmer switch, just pop it out by pushing from the back side since the dash covers are out of the way. The top wire, gray with a blue stripe, is the dimmed power. Strip a small amount of the insulation from this wire and solder the wire from the seat harness to this. I removed the pin from the connector so I could use heat shrink, but you can use electrical tape here if you wish. Now you can reassemble everything you removed to route the harness.
Install the seats, connect the harnesses to each seat, reinstall the seat rail trim, reconnect the battery, and enjoy your warm toasty buns
Disclaimer - do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for what you do to your car. If is possible for the air bags to be deployed from static discharge even when the car's battery is disconnected.
I want to thank Oldpoopie and G60ING for the pictures I borrowed from their threads.
I used the wiring harness from Kufatec: http://kufatec.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_11&products_id=17
You will also need drivers and passenger side switches for the dash, an inline blade fuse holder, a 7.5 a and a 15 a blade fuse, solder, soldering torch, heat shrink, and of course a pair of heated seats. The airbag connector changed in 2002.5 (the year of both of my Jettas) so if using post 02.5 seats in a pre 02.5 car, you will need to repin a new connector housing to match. That info is not in this thread.
There were 4 connections to be made inside the dash, you will need an ohm meter since all the wires in the pre-made harness are the same color.
Step 1 - remove negative battery terminal (isn't that what the manuals always say for step one
)Step 2 - remove the driver's side lower dash covers, side cover, and inner metal panel below steering column with your torx driver.
Step 3 - remove center dash vent cover by gently pulling the corners with your fingers and it will pop right out. Remove the seats by removing the 2 nuts at the base of the front of each seat (13mm socket) and the plastic trim strips over the seat rails with one phillips screw hiding under the small round cover. Lift the front of the seat, unplug the harness from the seat, slide it back and out of the rails. Remove the rear portion of the center console at this time also (the part under the Ebrake handle) You will need to remove the arm rest to do this. Also at this time, remove the trim on the kick panel on the drivers side, and the sill cover.
Step 4 - get out the mulitmeter. I actually did this before I started working inside the car. You will have a ring terminal, a wire with a preinstalled fuse panel terminal, 2 wires with no terminals installed, and a wire with a fuse panel end on one side and a ring terminal on the other. Using the ohm meter, identify and label the 2 wires without terminals, the one that goes to pin 1 on the seat connectors is for dimmed power, the one that goes to pin 5 on the seat connectors is for 7.5 a switched power. Also ID which switch and heat connectors go to each other by checking continuity between pin 2 of the switch connector and pin 5 of the seat connector and label them accordingly. TIP - the seat connector with the longest wire harness is for the passenger side
See diagram below:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Using solder and heat shrink, attach a large ring terminal to the inline fuse holder on one end and attach the other end to the wire that goes to pin 5 on the seat connector. The ring terminal end of this will connect to stud 75X on the car's interior power distribution block.
Step 5 - Route the wires behind the center of the dash so the switch connectors come out above the radio, connect them to the switches in the vent cover, reinstall the vent cover, then follow the factory wiring bundle with the rest of the harness behind the dash. Continue routing thru the kick panel area and under the sill plate area, then under the carpet, with the drivers connector coming out where the rest of the wires for the seat comes out of the carpet. Continue routing the pass side over the hump under the carpet and out the pass side seat harness hole in the carpet.
Step 6 - Time to make the dash electrical connections. See pic below. Place the factory installed ring terminal from your harness to the dash ground. It is an acorn nut (10mm socket) under the steering column with 2 other brown wires already there. Place the extra single wire provided with the ring on one end and fuse panel end on the other, ring to unswitched power 30 on the distribution block (10mm socket) and fuse end into the left side of fuse 44 area of fuse panel. Place the wire on the pre-made harness with the fuse connector in the right side of fuse 44 hole( as seen from the fuse side). It just snaps in the back, make sure it is fully seated. Install the 15 amp fuse here. Place the ring terminal you installed on the inline fuse to switched power 75X (10mm socket). Install 7.5 amp fuse in the holder. The dimmed power wire will go to the dimmer switch, just pop it out by pushing from the back side since the dash covers are out of the way. The top wire, gray with a blue stripe, is the dimmed power. Strip a small amount of the insulation from this wire and solder the wire from the seat harness to this. I removed the pin from the connector so I could use heat shrink, but you can use electrical tape here if you wish. Now you can reassemble everything you removed to route the harness.
Install the seats, connect the harnesses to each seat, reinstall the seat rail trim, reconnect the battery, and enjoy your warm toasty buns
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