TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines. |
November 6th, 2017, 17:29
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Fort Hood, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManicMechanic
Thanks. I think I'm going to need to hold on to the mounts. I might be able to make another set though. I think I would just use 1/4 plate instead of 3/8. 3/8s was over kill but it was what I had laying around. I need to check the plate run out before I go making any more adapters. I'll let you know if I make another one.
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Sounds like a plan, keep up the good work and us updated!
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November 7th, 2017, 13:35
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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November 7th, 2017, 14:55
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#18
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dunsmuir,Ca.
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I went a colder climate rout...
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November 14th, 2017, 09:46
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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I made the brackets to mount the VW coolant bottle and fuel filter then made a bracket to hold the braided stainless steel fuel lines. I tig welded the fuel line bracket together and it was the first thing I've actually tig welded.
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November 20th, 2017, 11:32
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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Finally got my S&P radiator in the mail. It's a tight fit between the fender and the steering box but it shouldn't be a problem.
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November 24th, 2017, 06:01
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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I finally have my clutch master cylinder mounted now. I used the inner hole for the fuse panel as the lower hole for the master cylinder. I'm going to relocate the fuse panel higher on the fire wall to give the master cylinder the room it needs. I made a backer plate for the master cylinder that way it won't try and damage the fire wall just pushing on two bolt heads.
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December 2nd, 2017, 05:02
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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I've run in to a snag and need some help from the Toyota experts. I was told the trans I have came from an 84 supra NA and that would make a W58. According to Advanced auto the supra and a pick up both use a 21 spline input shaft. Since I'm using a 22R flywheel I got the clutch kit that would match it. Now for the problem. It looks like my trans has a 29 spline input shaft. So what would i get a disc from that is 29 splines, will it work with a 22R flywheel and pressure plate, Or could I change the input shaft to a different one so it would be 21 spline?
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December 2nd, 2017, 10:05
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#23
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dunsmuir,Ca.
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I believe it is a 21 spline on the w58's , the input gear is 32 tooth.
Last edited by 1.9ZOOK; December 2nd, 2017 at 10:22.
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December 4th, 2017, 05:26
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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You are correct Sir. That's what I get for trying to count the splines with the trans still in the truck bolted to the motor.
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December 11th, 2017, 09:28
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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Finally got to check the run out on my home made adapter. I got the magic number of .005. Don't think I could ask for much better.
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December 18th, 2017, 07:12
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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Started building my down pipe over the weekend. I'm making it so the down pipe can be removed without unbolting the exhaust from the turbo in case I need more room to get the starter out.
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December 19th, 2017, 09:47
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#27
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dunsmuir,Ca.
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I used the same type of pipe clamps,sure makes things easier.
Looking good!
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December 20th, 2017, 19:21
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#28
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mill City, Oregon
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To me it looks like you ran some bolts into the holes with some spacers, then welded them together with the braces. Did you just clamp the newly welded jig down and drill all the holes? Then tap? Looks great!
How thick is your adapter?
Asking as I am going to make my own when I get to that point. I like basic
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December 21st, 2017, 06:35
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Saint Cloud, Florida
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Basically you are correct. I made the spacers on my lathe and made the holes a snug fit to the bolts to keep them lined up. The bottom two I put shoulders on to line them up in the dowel holes. The ring on the crank is also a snug fit. After I wielded it all together I made a slug to go where the crank shaft was and bolted it down to the plate. I drilled the holes one at a time and bolted the jig to the plate as I drilled each hole. I didn't put up a picture of it but I made a similar jig for the toyota bell housing. I didn't tap any of the holes because the plate is only 3/8 mild steel and I didn't want to worry about pulling the threads. Instead I made two slugs for the bottom two holes that are threaded and go to the bottom of the dowel pin holes in the block with bolts coming from the motor toward the transmission. To get the threads for the bell housing I got wheel studs and pressed them into the plate. Two of the studs I had to remove a few thousands from on the back then I recessed them into the plate 1/8 so they sit flush with the back of the plate. Hope this helps.
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December 21st, 2017, 10:55
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#30
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Provo, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManicMechanic
Finally got my S&P radiator in the mail. It's a tight fit between the fender and the steering box but it shouldn't be a problem.

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Which radiator is that? And what power steering box do you have?
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