Woes Continue, Rear Caliper Rebuild Time...

So I've had scattered threads here and there the last 6 months as this car hasn't let up with giving me issues. Back to back to back it seems.

After replacing basically all the front end parts last weekend, I was doing my normal commute and test run on all the parts. It felt great. Was heading to the gf's house to pick her up for a hockey game when the low brake light fluid came on. All pads, rotors were new, fresh bleed all around.

Crawled under the car, right rear caliper gave up the ghost, was leaking pretty bad. Banjo bolt and bleed screw are dry.

I'm going to rebuild both rears while I'm doing the failed side.
I haven't dealt yet with the wind in pistons style.

I've done reading, searched threads, it doesn't seem too bad, but I wanted to ask yall if I should look out for anything in particular.

Car isn't subjected to salt so I'm re using pistons. They all move freely as I checked when I did the brakes. Parking brake mechanisms are in good shape.

So I bought 2 of these kits (I have 38mm pistons stamped in the calipers):

Centric 143.33031:
https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-143-33031-Caliper-Kit/dp/B000IY9NQU

A set of pliers to get at the snap ring:
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

The disk brake kit (for piston removal/installation):
https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTe...tor+tech+disc+brake+kit&qid=1582159416&sr=8-1

2L of Pentosin Super Dot 4

A power bleeder since I'm a 1 man operation

Is there anything else I should get? I'm either going to use some expanding ear plugs to plug the banjo bolt while I work or use vacuum nipple end plugs to seal the m12 hole. Either should work.

I need this car to be flawless come end of March as I have a big time front end rebuild project on the truck. I've felt as of late I've been walking on eggshells around this car and I've proven it by all that's gone wrong. I haven't driven it for a week straight for months without an issue.

Thanks in advance!

I've installed those same kits before. It's easy with the correct snap ring pliers. Installation is just the reverse of disassembly, so take pictures or video as you go.

The only other thing I'd suggest is a tub of silicone grease for all the rubber parts. It's what the rebuilders use as it's neutral on rubber and non-reactive with brake fluid. Plus, it makes popping in the pistons noticeably easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Tribology-Tech-Lube-TSG-Universal-Silicone/dp/B077PD43P8/ref=lp_14394807011_1_1?srs=14394807011&ie=UTF8&qid=1582175139&sr=8-1

Edit: I just saw that your pistons are probably good to go. Have at it!

I plugged the banjo using a nitrile glove, some cardboard backing, and a light pinch from some vice grips to squoosh it all onto both sides of the banjo.

afterthisnap said:

I've installed those same kits before. It's easy with the correct snap ring pliers. Installation is just the reverse of disassembly, so take pictures or video as you go.

The only other thing I'd suggest is a tub of silicone grease for all the rubber parts. It's what the rebuilders use as it's neutral on rubber and non-reactive with brake fluid. Plus, it makes popping in the pistons noticeably easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Tribology-Tech-Lube-TSG-Universal-Silicone/dp/B077PD43P8/ref=lp_14394807011_1_1?srs=14394807011&ie=UTF8&qid=1582175139&sr=8-1

Edit: I just saw that your pistons are probably good to go. Have at it!

I plugged the banjo using a nitrile glove, some cardboard backing, and a light pinch from some vice grips to squoosh it all onto both sides of the banjo.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply!
I think those snap ring pliers I linked were in another thread so I should be good to go with that.

Clever idea on the banjo plug too.

I'll probably get some of that grease too thanks!

Also, you can just rent the disc retractor tool from Autozone/Orileys for free.

afterthisnap said:

Also, you can just rent the disc retractor tool from Autozone/Orileys for free.

Click to expand...

Ah didn't know that.
The kit on Amazon was $20 so I'll give it a try. It should be really handy for any vehicle really instead of the C-clamp method, which tends to be a pain depending on the profile of the backside of the caliper (ie convex).


I decided that while I do the rears, I'm going to rebuild the front driver too. It's the only one left that I need to do. Don't really want to wait for that one to fail and be stranded again.


Funny story, I was getting a tow home yesterday. Tow driver doesn't speak good english, but basically told me I could go inside while he loaded the car up. 5 minutes. I was watching him from out the window. The flat bed was tilted down and he was going to drive it up the ramp.


Try 1: pulls up to the ramp, front tires hit the ramp, he rolls backwards
Try 2: pulls up to the ramp, front tires hit the ramp, he rolls backwards
Try 3: pulls up to the ramp, front tires hit the ramp, he rolls backwards


Try 4: I didn't let it happen. I went outside as he was trying to call my phone. He looks at me and says in really broken English "I've never driven stick"


I thought to myself, "Why in the royal f*k would you even TRY and load a car you didn't know how to drive..."


That could have been an expensive mistake to his company on his part.


So I loaded it up on the truck for him...I basically paid $100 for to do his job.


We were driving 35 miles to have the car dropped at my place. We get pulled over for "random" commercial inspection by an officer. He thought I was the guys co-worker, and he was grilling "us" about the car and its paperwork. I finally had to tell the officer that it was my car, I blew a brake seal, and I was trying to get the damn thing home so I could go to work, which I was already 2 hours late. He said he'd be quick...45 minutes later and a razzled tow truck driver later, we got to my place.


I pointed to a place the driver could turn around and unload the car with ease and told him to park there. He replied "Yes, officer"


Obviously the guy was still mortified about the experience. He was probably ready to get rid of me.

Just as an FYI, you can buy the crush washers for the banjo bolt for F&R in this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DHHLP34/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2QUN4XC27WWL&psc=1

12x18x1 for rears
10x16x1 for fronts.

Not a bad price for the kit considering the washers are about 3.50 ea elsewhere!

Had to search a lot to find the correct OD and thickness

KrashDH said:

So I loaded it up on the truck for him...I basically paid $100 for to do his job.

Click to expand...

As far as value per dollar, I believe AAA is less than $100 a year and gives you 4 tows. If you like to mess around/buy/sell cars or if you have friends who do, the membership pays for itself quickly.

afterthisnap said:

As far as value per dollar, I believe AAA is less than $100 a year and gives you 4 tows. If you like to mess around/buy/sell cars or if you have friends who do, the membership pays for itself quickly.

Click to expand...

My insurance covers 15 miles or to the closest authorized shop to do the work. I lived 35 miles away and I'm my mechanic, so I was basically hosed because I needed it towed home.

I have Allstate motor club and I get three tows every six months up to $250 each and part with $15/no for it. $250 is quite a distance...

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

My AAA plan gives me 100 miles 4x a year. I've used it to buy cars out of town and ship them back home.

afterthisnap said:

As far as value per dollar, I believe AAA is less than $100 a year and gives you 4 tows. If you like to mess around/buy/sell cars or if you have friends who do, the membership pays for itself quickly.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I have that AAA 100 miles tow membership and was a bit too honest when I told them that I was towing home a new purchase. They would not approve payment for it because it was not an emergency...it was a convenience. $175...goodbye.
I don't know if it is a recent change in the way they do things because Ive had other peoples cars towed free and no one asked about the circumstances.

I decided that I was going to just button up this entire project by rebuilding the left front (LF, driver) caliper as well.


I was able to R&R front caliper parts (including new piston) in just over an hour. Most struggle came from getting the new dustboot over the piston and getting it in the bore.



I have to attack the rears this weekend, they are going to require a bit more disassembly to get to everything. I have watched a very good video on it though.


I ended up getting this rubber grease for the re-builds (seals and o-rings):
https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-Corr...trol+caliper+grease+red&qid=1582655562&sr=8-1


I won't be using this grease though for anything metal-metal though on the rears (parking brake mechanism). I'll go a different route.


I figure I'll flush everything out as well while I'm in there. I forgot to do it on the FL last night, but I usually pre-fill the caliper with a bit of fluid before installing. I don't think it will matter bleeding either way though, it's from habit.


Plan of attack for my '02 will be to use my pressure bleeder just as a vessel and not actually fill the tank with fluid. I'll just keep the reservoir topped off with fluid between each wheel.


Being the year, I plan on order of operation:


Clutch, LF, RF, LR, RR. Hopefully while keeping that reservoir topped off.


I also ordered some new rear brake pads, I hope they get here in time before the weekend. I believe I have fluid on the backing of one of the pads pretty bad...it looked like it may be eating away at the adhesive that keeps the backing rubber on the pad but I can't tell. At least though I'll have a backup set if I need them when I tear into it.