AutobahnTDI
Veteran Member
What/where is the clutch reservoir? I am confused... did he not he bleed the clutch?Nice write-up. You should have flushed the clutch res. while you were at it--kill 2 birds with the same messy stone.
Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics)
- Thread starter cosmic
- Start date
AutobahnTDI
Veteran Member
Re: Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics
Bump. What is jettajim talking about? I don't think the "clutch reservoir" exists?
Bump. What is jettajim talking about? I don't think the "clutch reservoir" exists?
dieseldorf
Top Post Dawg
Re: Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics
yeah, it's all one reservoir...he's probably mentioning bleeding of the clutch slave cylinder... it's atop the trans just behind that big counter balance.
yeah, it's all one reservoir...he's probably mentioning bleeding of the clutch slave cylinder... it's atop the trans just behind that big counter balance.
dieseldorf
Top Post Dawg
wow, this thread brings back a lot of fond memories...brake bleeding is always the first sign of Spring for me! It's gotta be just around the corner and I can't wait for a break in the weather!
AutobahnTDI
Veteran Member
Re: Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics
That would be great if you fixed up your write-up. I need to change my fluid soon.
That would be great if you fixed up your write-up. I need to change my fluid soon.
truav8r
Veteran Member
Re: Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics
So, if I fill up the Motive with the fluid, and allow the fluid to replenish the resevoir as needed, won't the resevoir always be filled over the MAX line??? Is this bad??
And then, when all bleeding is done, how can I take the Motive off the resevoir without spilling fluid all over?
Will I have to take a little of the new fluid out of the resevoir with a baster to bring it back down between the MAX and MIN lines??
Thanks.
- sean
So, if I fill up the Motive with the fluid, and allow the fluid to replenish the resevoir as needed, won't the resevoir always be filled over the MAX line??? Is this bad??
And then, when all bleeding is done, how can I take the Motive off the resevoir without spilling fluid all over?
Will I have to take a little of the new fluid out of the resevoir with a baster to bring it back down between the MAX and MIN lines??
Thanks.
- sean
ALCO
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2002
- Location
- Port Perry, Ontario, Canada
- TDI
- 1999 A3 Jetta, silver/2005 B5 Passat, silver
Re: Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics
truav8r, The instructions for how to allow the reservoir to draw down to the max mark are printed on the Motive. Basically, you have to tilt it to allow air to go through.
It's a lot easier to just refill the reservoir a couple of times and just use the Motive for air pressure. No messy cleanup either!
truav8r, The instructions for how to allow the reservoir to draw down to the max mark are printed on the Motive. Basically, you have to tilt it to allow air to go through.
It's a lot easier to just refill the reservoir a couple of times and just use the Motive for air pressure. No messy cleanup either!
bobsbug
Member
newbie waiting for my service manual. do the automatics have a clutch bleed?
AutobahnTDI
Veteran Member
I am interested to know if you will be making any updates. I am doing this soon and I want to do it right. thanks
Cincy_Mike
Veteran Member
Can anyone elaborate on this? I'm not following this.
ALCO
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2002
- Location
- Port Perry, Ontario, Canada
- TDI
- 1999 A3 Jetta, silver/2005 B5 Passat, silver
There's a fine mesh screen that sits in the reservoir. To be precise, it is the shape of a right circular cylinder (like a roll of coins). You lift it out with fine needle nose pliers...I use a hemostat. It takes a bit of jiggling but it will come out.
truav8r
Veteran Member
I have not seen any other discussion debating this. For a 2003 MkIV, some say to proceed RR-LR-RF-LF, while others (MoGolf) say LF-RF-LR-RR. Which is correct?? Could it be that both methods are acceptable, though one pattern might be more desirable??
whatnxt
Veteran Member
Any recommendations on how/what to use to clean out the Motive bleeder after use? Just wipe it out? Cleaning fluid? How about the hose? This is missing from my instructions.
Thanks.
Thanks.
ALCO
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2002
- Location
- Port Perry, Ontario, Canada
- TDI
- 1999 A3 Jetta, silver/2005 B5 Passat, silver
The instructions say to use denatured alcohol to clean the Motive. I thought the instructions were printed right on the bottle. I had a heck of a time finding the stuff!
whatnxt
Veteran Member
Thanks for the information.
I do have some DA at the house. Somthing else to do today.
I do have some DA at the house. Somthing else to do today.
ymz
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 12, 2003
- Location
- Between Toronto & Montreal
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon
Not that MoGolf needs any corroboration, but the Bentley manual also indicates that the "new" order is: Clutch, LF, RF, LR, RR. This is for the newer type of ABS pumps.
Yuri.
Yuri.
Re: Motive brake fluid change (caution 3MB of pics
Pics are down again. A drive went south on the supporting server. Hardware is being replaced and the pics should be back on line sometime soon.
I do realize (now) that it's preferred to have the pics hosted at TDIClub. This will happen when I redo this post for my soon forthcoming (this weekend, weather permitting) 4 corner brake job and fluid replacement.
In the interim, the whole post can be seen in PDF format linked above.
Pics are down again. A drive went south on the supporting server. Hardware is being replaced and the pics should be back on line sometime soon.
I do realize (now) that it's preferred to have the pics hosted at TDIClub. This will happen when I redo this post for my soon forthcoming (this weekend, weather permitting) 4 corner brake job and fluid replacement.
In the interim, the whole post can be seen in PDF format linked above.
hutchman
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2005
- Location
- Virginia
- TDI
- 2006 Jetta TDI Pkg 1, 5 Spd, Graphite Blue / 2002 Jetta GLS, Black w/tan leather
My Bentley Service manual says if you are replacing brake fluid:paramedick said:
"Remove brake fluid resivoir cap. Extract as much brake fluid from the reservior as possible using suction hose ...
-Note
Make sure no brake fluid runs through strainer after completing extraction sequence (break fluid level in reservoir must stop at lower edge of strainer)."
Does this mean you only suck out fluid down to the level of the strainer meaning there should be fluid just covering the strainer before you start pumping in the new fluid???
Getting ready to use my new Motive toy on the 02 Jetta I just picked up.
Thanks!
Last edited:
ymz
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 12, 2003
- Location
- Between Toronto & Montreal
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon
Hutchman: I believe they're talking about the level after all the work's done... While performing the powered flushing routine, you can fill close to the brim (or, in the case of those who fill the Motive with fluid and work from there, beyond the brim - too messy for me...)
BTW: I believe your car has the newer ABS pumps, so you should follow the "new" bleeding sequence: Clutch->LF->RF->LR->RR.
All the best,
Yuri.
BTW: I believe your car has the newer ABS pumps, so you should follow the "new" bleeding sequence: Clutch->LF->RF->LR->RR.
All the best,
Yuri.
hutchman
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2005
- Location
- Virginia
- TDI
- 2006 Jetta TDI Pkg 1, 5 Spd, Graphite Blue / 2002 Jetta GLS, Black w/tan leather
The Bentley manual makes a big deal of pointing out that Jetta & Golf years 99-01 (on page 45-4) have the Mark 20 break system (and are bled RR,LR,RF,LF) and years 02-05 have Mark 60 (bled LF,RF,LR,RR).cosmic said:Thanks for the responses. I am happy to give something back.
GeWilli - Certainly Geoff you can make it into a pdf, although it looks like twojettas beat ya to it. I finally used your ventectomy pics last night, to yank my vent button.
Dieseldorf - I noted that Bentleys said to NOT exceed 14.5 psi (1 bar) so I stuck to that rule. Things might work a bit faster with higher pressure, but it was a nice day.Thanks for the info on the rear brakes being softer. There are just under 45K miles on the car. Regarding the pattern, once again, bentleys said RR,LR,RF,LF. I actually ended up doing RR,LR,LF,RF then clutch. I guess I just got going around the car...My Jetta is an early 2001.
Gulfstream - new pads and rotors for the rear are on the way from Impex. I was already grinding on the rotors just a hair, and Impex has rear rotors on sale, 2 for $40.
Thanks to all and feel free to use the info and these pics as you please.
The part that gets me is the section that talks about replacing the break fluid (page 47-16) does not mention the type of break system and says to start with clutch then RR,LR,RF,LF. I wonder if this is a mistake????
The comment about 14.5 psi says that if you use higher pressure, not all of the break fluid will come out.
Last edited:
gtveloce
Veteran Member
I am so confused now...hutchman said:
eyetdiman
Veteran Member
I just had mine done at the VW dealer for $89.
That seems to be odd. It's my understanding that the 99-01s do RR,LR,RF,LF,clutch. I would think that the 02-05s would do clutch,LF,RF,LR,RR.hutchman said:
Actually, I think the brake fluid will come out, but potentially in places not intended. YMMVhutchman said:
This is an excellent how to!!
One item not include was the sequence of events when doing a rotor and/or pad replacement and a fluid change. With brake systems that have ABS (or traction control) the brake fluid should be replaced before performing the rotor and/or pad change. This prevents pushing the dirty brake fluid from the caliper piston cavity back into the ABS (or traction control) valving when compressing the caliper pistons. Leave the reservoir at the Min level after the fluid change so it doesn't overflow during the brake work. Top off afterwards. The other added benefit is this method cuts down on duplicate work if a bleeded screw snaps off.
Possibly the size of the caliper pistons in the VW's prevent this event from occuring but on my full size pickup the pistons are huge and compressing them pushes a lot of fluid into the ABS pump. Of course, this is a front caliper issue more than rear calipers.
One item not include was the sequence of events when doing a rotor and/or pad replacement and a fluid change. With brake systems that have ABS (or traction control) the brake fluid should be replaced before performing the rotor and/or pad change. This prevents pushing the dirty brake fluid from the caliper piston cavity back into the ABS (or traction control) valving when compressing the caliper pistons. Leave the reservoir at the Min level after the fluid change so it doesn't overflow during the brake work. Top off afterwards. The other added benefit is this method cuts down on duplicate work if a bleeded screw snaps off.
Possibly the size of the caliper pistons in the VW's prevent this event from occuring but on my full size pickup the pistons are huge and compressing them pushes a lot of fluid into the ABS pump. Of course, this is a front caliper issue more than rear calipers.
PDiesoiler
Veteran Member
In the Bentley's under "Brake Fluid, Replacing" it says to install a brake pedal depressor tool prior to the pressure bleeding procedure although I've not seen this mentioned in this post. Anyone know if this is necessary on the Mark 60 ABS/ESP system?
PDiesoiler
Veteran Member
Anyone know? (plays jeopardy music)
tongsli
Top Post Dawg
Well, I've seen the bleeder that the dealership uses and I don't see a need for a pedal depressor tool.
It's basically an automated Motive bleeder. It pressurizes the system and sucks out the fluid all in one unit. When NewJettaGuy and I had TDITech change our 5th gears, NewJettaGuy had Troy bleed his brakes.
Very slick machine.
It's basically an automated Motive bleeder. It pressurizes the system and sucks out the fluid all in one unit. When NewJettaGuy and I had TDITech change our 5th gears, NewJettaGuy had Troy bleed his brakes.
Very slick machine.
Dunno513
Veteran Member
Is it really necessary to bleed the callipers in a specific order, or is it really just due to the order of the brake lines on the distribution box and possible slight contamination of an already bled line?
Also, wouldn't a pedal depressor empty the master cylinder to aid in completely flushing all the fluid?
Also, wouldn't a pedal depressor empty the master cylinder to aid in completely flushing all the fluid?