HOW TO change the lower control arm bushing

BRIAN427COBRA · Jan 15, 2012

I did my shocks, struts, ball joints and A-arm bushings this weekend, my 03 has 241k on it, the thing drives and handles like new again, all in all it took me 7 hours to do everything, living in Texas we don't use salt on the roads so everything came apart fine, but the aircraft mechanic in me used anti seeze on everything so if there is a next time I know the bolts will come out easy, thank you Wingnut for the How To.

chumlee · Jan 22, 2012

Replaced my bushings with the meyle tt ones from mjm autohaus. The bushings were made in china. Also replaced a strut spring with a meyle one from mjm autohaus. Made in malaysia. I guess if you want german replacement parts for your car you have to go to a dealer.

verylongdrive · Jan 25, 2012

mk3 said:
not sure... but I just did this job last week on my 03 with manual transmission and Original driveshafts. I turned the steering way all the way to one side to extend the tie rod out. I pushed the control arm all the way into the subframe; I did not have the bolts installed so it went further than nominal.

Finally I pulled the bottom of the strut all the way out and lifted the control arm up and swiveled the ball joint until it slid into the slot at the end of the control arm.

I am not sure but maybe I had the top cap off the strut at that time but I definitely did not have the upper strut bushing and bearing off and I did not use a spring compressor.

Given the possible movements of the tie rod and the strut, such as described above, is it possible to pull the control arm out of the subframe without disconnecting the ball joint?

Also, jack points:
I've always made do with jacking up one corner at a time (and resting the car on a junk wheel as soon as the wheel is removed). In order to do the diagnostic wheel wiggle to see if bushings are really my problem, I guess I have to finally get jack stands. I've been placing my little hydraulic jack under the weld where the factory jack is apparently supposed to go - is that correct? And then, where do you place jackstands? (And how does jacking up the second corner not cause havoc at the first jackstand?)

thanks.

Dimitri16V · Jan 25, 2012

passenger side : don't fight it , take the axle off the transmission.
drivers side : no need to take the axle off

Chemboy · Jan 25, 2012

Dimitri16V said:
passenger side : don't fight it , take the axle off the transmission.
drivers side : no need to take the axle off

Don't take the axle off the transmission. Instead, you'll find it much easier to remove it from the steering knuckle.

--Andy

verylongdrive · Jan 26, 2012

Dimitri16V said:
passenger side : don't fight it , take the axle off the transmission.
drivers side : no need to take the axle off

Chemboy said:
Don't take the axle off the transmission. Instead, you'll find it much easier to remove it from the steering knuckle.

Disconnecting an axle? Do mean in order to move the knuckle far enough to pull the control arm from the subframe without disconnecting the ball joint - in other words, the answer to my question is Yes, if i do the above?

Or are you referring back to something else?

FredS · Apr 3, 2012

Just put new TT bushings and OEM front ones. Doesn't take more than a couple of mins to pull the arm and put it back if you just take the 3 ball joint bolts out and pull the strut/hub assembly straight out away from the arm.

Used a press on the old rear bushings and to put the new TT bushings in. Just soak the old bushing with Penetrol or something like it, and it pops right now. I used a hammer just like wingnut stated on removing the front bushing, and a vise with a ton of lubricant to get that shoulder of the new front bushing to pop in and slide through.

Overall, pretty easy and straight forward, just like the writeup shows.

dieselfuel · Apr 6, 2012

FredS said:
Just put new TT bushings and OEM front ones. Doesn't take more than a couple of mins to pull the arm and put it back if you just take the 3 ball joint bolts out and pull the strut/hub assembly straight out away from the arm.

Fred,

Any particular order in removing the bolts....? (Front, rear, balljoint bolts....?)

Thanks,

df

Click to expand...

astrolumen · Apr 24, 2012

Just a little warning for those in areas with winter road salt. My front LCA bushing bolt did not back out. It just spun in place on both the left and right sides. I might have done something wrong, but the shop I went to found the same thing.

Also, if you have access to air tools, use them. I was definitely using some choice words as I cranked on my wrenches by hand.

The rest of the story:
I have an '02 Golf with 152,000 miles on it. We get a lot of snow and salt up here in Minnesota. I bought used LCAs and pressed in some TT bushings from IDParts before getting under the car (used LCAs are very reasonably priced, check ebay). Thanks to Wingnut for the write-up. It worked like a charm. Jacked the car up and started removing the LCA/ball joint bolts and hit a snag. The bolt holding the front LCA bushing just spun in place. As most of you know, this bolt threads into the sub-frame, and I don't have a torch or experience to cut the thing out. My local VW service shop (Good Carma, decent folks) was willing to do the work and use my parts. After all the effort (over 4 hours of shop work and an alignment), I was out $400. But the steering is dead solid, no drifting or rattling and it hugs those freeway entrance ramps like a champ.

PDJetta · Apr 24, 2012

How did the shop deal with the detached front control arm nuts inside the subframe?

--Nate

astrolumen · Apr 24, 2012

They had to use a torch and cut access holes in the subframe to be able to cut the bolts out. I did not get a chance to take pictures of where/how they did the cutting. I assume if you know how to do torch-cutting you also have a good idea of how to safely position a hole in the subframe without losing too much structural integrity.

PDJetta said:
How did the shop deal with the detached front control arm nuts inside the subframe?

--Nate

Jetta2001TDI · Apr 24, 2012

I used this kit from Autozone (free rental). This kit makes pressing both LCA bushings a piece of cake. No need to freeze, or cut the bushing. Just a bit of silicone grease when pressing them back in. I ended up buying the same kit at Harbor Freight. Useful for lots of small press jobs.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...N-264q?itemIdentifier=516524&_requestid=53046

PDJetta · Apr 25, 2012

astrolumen said:
They had to use a torch and cut access holes in the subframe to be able to cut the bolts out. I did not get a chance to take pictures of where/how they did the cutting. I assume if you know how to do torch-cutting you also have a good idea of how to safely position a hole in the subframe without losing too much structural integrity.

There is a write-up on here too about cutting open a hole and welding it up. I just wondered if this is what they did, or knew of some fast trick. If it happens to me, that will be a great excuse to get a oxy-acetylene torch.

--Nate

sruchris · Apr 28, 2012

I replaced my rear lca bushings today as they were shot. I was able to wiggle the control arm out by removing the 3 ball joint bolts, the sway bar end link bolt and the 2 bushing/sub-frame bolts.

Removal of the rear bushings was easy; cut out the center rubber piece and pound the edge of the bushing until it pops out. I didn't change the fronts as they looked new.

Installation the the new TT bushings was difficult. I froze them, applied grease, used a vice and rented a ball joint press. Nothing worked. I ended up taking the arms and bushings to a shop where they pressed them for $10 each.

Reinstallation of the control arm takes a bit of wiggling. First, seat and connect (hand-tighten) the two bushing ends, then pull the strut/hub out to line up and connect the ball joint. Lower the car and tighten all bolts, reconnect the side skirt and belly pan.

Seatman · May 15, 2012

Great, a whole thread and no part numbers?!

The audi TT/R32 ones are 8N0 407 181 B

The standard fronts are 357 407 182

As for fitting the fronts, a decent water based baby moisturising gel works a treat.

je · May 15, 2012

What made it easy for me to install the bushings in a vise was (with thanks to Wingnut's advice) to take a thick enough piece of wood (in my case maple) larger than the bushing OD, use a hole saw or Forstner bit that's 1" or 1-1/4" and drill out a cavity for the bushing rod to fit into, then just press the bushing (which is now much easier to keep square to the LCA and vise) in with a bench vise. That was good for the front bushing too, because it sticks out of its location when you press it. It's probably handy that there's a wood shop at work with, well, all that stuff.

Crispy222 · May 30, 2012

Did everything I could think of on the front end suspensions of the TDI this weekend. With 160k on what looked to be mainly original parts it was pretty tired and uncomfortable to drive long distances. The lack of power was atrocious on the 8hr drive home when I first bought it. This is my GF car and I have a 350whp Passat Variant, so was night and day to compare the two.

Inner/Outer Tie Rods, Ball Joints, oem fr/tt rear bushings, strut bushing &bearings, all new hardware $180
Bilstein sport struts, front & rear, used $300
H&R race springs, $100
Hotchkis front sway bar, new bushing/brackets, $150
SS Heim joint end-links, $140
VF dogbone mount used, new bushings, $100
$10 for LCA bushing removal and install
$10 for welding both front LCA 'nuts'

One 'nut' broke free. Removed the sub-frame with one control arm attached yet. Drilled 5/8" hole below the nut/near the inner pocket wall. MIG welded the nut to the pocket wall.

We also cleaned the whole intake system. My GF actually did most of the work minus breaking loose bolts/dis-assembly stuff/hard to reach stuff. Disassembled all the piping from the air box to the cylinder head. Cleaned out any oil/soot/built-up crude. Removed EGR,EG cooler, ASV & EGR solenoids. Installed 'race pipe', OEM coolant by-pass line, block off plate. All new Forged silicon hoses replaced all the OEM clothed covered rubber. Freed up the vains in the turbo with little back and forth working of the actuator. Malone stage 1 tune was installed a few weeks ago, but we were not seeing any boost due to the stuck vains.

Working on acquiring a rear Hotchkis bar to match up to the front. Then driving the crap out of it. A few trips planned for family visits this fall. It drives and handles so much better.

robertyateman · Jun 21, 2012

Why does everyone switch to Audi TT control arm bushings ? Is there really that much of a difference ? I am just about to replace the rear bushing and was wondering were i should order them from.

Thanks, Robert

Louis_TDI · Jun 22, 2012

They last allot longer, there a bit stiffer and they are easier to put in since there is no need to line them up like the original ones

je · Jun 22, 2012

They're stiffer, tighten up the steering, respond a little bit faster, but I don't think they last longer, in fact they might need replacing sooner. They are really nice though.

Louis_TDI · Jun 25, 2012

Oem's lasted 80k and were toast and my tt are going on 160k and still look new so in my expirience they last much longer

dieselfuel · Jul 22, 2012

^^^ I think the key is buying OEM Genuine Audi bushings, and not the aftermarket ones.

JMHO,

df

duwem · Jul 30, 2012

Do people do subframe bushings as well? Easy to do if your doing all the other front stuff?

One other question, if you leave the steering knuckle in the car to R and R the arm (replace the bushings and the ball joints), are you able to get a torque wrench on the ball joint nut to torque it properly, or will only a wrench fit?

tdiflyer · Aug 6, 2012

Control Arm Bushing Replacement

I replaced a set of control arms on one Jetta this weekend and then rebuilt the old ones with new bushings to go back onto my second car. I borrowed a ball joint press kit from Canadian Tire, and it worked well for removing both bushings. No cutting, no hammering, just squeezed them out. I had some trouble getting new forward ones in using the ball joint kit because they kept going out of line, so I cobbled something together using the threaded shaft from the rear axle bushing tool I just bought on ebay, and that did the job. The rears went in fine with the ball joint press.

tdiflyer · Aug 6, 2012

duwem said:
Do people do subframe bushings as well? Easy to do if your doing all the other front stuff?

One other question, if you leave the steering knuckle in the car to R and R the arm (replace the bushings and the ball joints), are you able to get a torque wrench on the ball joint nut to torque it properly, or will only a wrench fit?

Only a wrench will fit - you just have to use a calibrated forearm for the torque. BTW, to do it this way you do have to remove the ball joint from the knuckle - taking out the three small bolts doesn't work because the knuckle won't move out far enough to get the ball joint clear of the control arm (unless you disconnect the tie rod or remove the axle nut).

PDJetta · Aug 7, 2012

duwem said:
Do people do subframe bushings as well? Easy to do if your doing all the other front stuff?

One other question, if you leave the steering knuckle in the car to R and R the arm (replace the bushings and the ball joints), are you able to get a torque wrench on the ball joint nut to torque it properly, or will only a wrench fit?

I recently replaced my rear control arm bushings and ball joints at the same time. I removed the drive axle from the wheel bearing housing (left it bolted to the transaxle), removed the three ball joint lower mounting bolts (I painted the mounting location first), swung the strut/steering knuckle out, and removed the control arm. On the first side I did I removed the I ball joint stud nut and and released the ball joint using a pickle fork which completely destroyed the ball joint dust boot. On the other side I attempted to loosen the ball joint stud nut against the outter CV joint before removing the drive axle from the wheel bearing housing, but the ball joint stud was so tight, it did not work. I beat on it with the pickle fork BJ remover and got it to pop loose.

The rear control arm bushings were easy to press out and in using a 12-ton harbor freight press.

I replaced all of the "must replace" fasteners and used new ball joint bolt plates, along with new rear control arm bushings and ball joints. Everything replaced was genuine VW parts from the dealer (I have read that rear control arm bushings and ball joints can fail soon if they are not OEM). All parts bought at 1stvwparts.com for about $140.

A torque wrench and socket fits on the ball joint bolts (all 4) fine if just the drive axle is removed.

I was not about to mess with the subframe bushings. They looked fine at 150,000 miles.

--Nate

dieselfuel · Sep 3, 2012

Do you think this would work to install the bushings into the control arms:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html

The shop wants $15/bushing labor. For another $9, I can own the press and do it at my convenience. Thus, saving hours of time.

I'm just wondering if 6 tons is enough. I'm guessing "yes", but I want to make sure before buying the press.

Thanks,

df

ecarnell · Sep 3, 2012

It will work for the round/a4/rear - but you cannot get the old or press new fronts in with this press as the geometry of the a arm does not allow you to get a direct push on it (unless you have some significant support to hold the odd ball shape in place- I did not).
That was my experience with the exact same press last year when I did mine on the 04 (I actually only end up changing 1 of fronts (both rears) as it was a ***** to get out(see above) and they were fine anyhow). The rears are what wear/can be upgraded.

dieselfuel · Sep 3, 2012

e,

Good point. Need to think if it's worth it just for doing the rears...?

I should add, I already have purchased the front and rear bushings (Genuine Audi parts) so I don't want to not have the fronts installed. Hate to waste money. :>)

df

ecarnell · Sep 3, 2012

dieselfuel said:
e,

Good point. Need to think if it's worth it just for doing the rears...?

I should add, I already have purchased the front and rear bushings (Genuine Audi parts) so I don't want to not have the fronts installed. Hate to waste money. :>)

df

The rears are what go - and are worth doing. Upgrade tt ones are worth The extra $ (IMO).
Pull them off and inspect. Would suspect your front bushings are still as good as new.

HOW TO change the lower control arm bushing

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