Dried coolant found on oil pan

Done a few of these lately. Easy enough to get the O ring in place and slid into the block. Hard part is dealing with the coolant flange bolt with the stud that secure the metal pipe to it.

A few more words when doing this. Rassa Frassa, sunny beaches, mother plucker. All are important and add to the experience.

Charging $100 to do this seal replacement. Customers are getting a bargain!!!

gona bring this up for anyone who is new, this thread has helped me greatly. I am in the middle of this fix, just put the new O-ring on and have to put all the wires and brackets back now. I would like to add I did not have to remove the hard Oil line (2000 jetta)

here are some new better pics of the leak, i took the engine cover off and its leaking out of a hose that goes into the block i think. I put an arrow on a few pictures pointing to the hose and where it goes into the block, there was a build up of hard antifreez there as well, but not in the pics. it fell off. I also placed an arrow of another bigger hose that is running at a 90 degree angle to the one thats leaking. the hose thats leaking runs sideway infront of the engine and the big one thats in front of it runs directly into the engine. It seems they are running into the same block....

http://img577.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=84556605.jpg

I think i have the same leak...can anyone confirm??, thanks guys...

You have different things circled on different pictures. I can't get the image on some of them to appear sufficiently large to see what is going on. However, in 3,4,5 it seems that the pipe that runs behind the injection pump is what you have pictured, and it is the one of the discussion in this thread.

You first picture is of the thermostat housing. It can leak, but in my case it was not the leak.

Also in my case, it was the leak, but the coolant leaked down the block and did not have buildup around the actual leak itself. I found it after replacing the thermostat housing and o-ring that did not stop the leakage and I had to keep looking.

MOGolf said:

O-ring 3 is the pain-to-replace part that leaks. Also get a replacement o-ring #8 in the diagram above, and (your choice) replacement crush washers for the turbo oil feed line at the oil filter housing, and a replacement orange dipstick tube. Examine your glow plug wiring harness. It might be aging to the point of falling apart when you remove it from the glow plugs.



Obviously, the coolant should be drained (got some to replace it?). Have a drain pan under the engine.

• Unbolt the vacuum bottle bracket from the engine.
• Disconnect the wiring harness on the front side of the engine, disconnecting the injection pump, oil pressure switch, engine speed sensor, glow plugs, needle lift sender, coolant temperature sensor.
• Remove the connectors from the bracket that is a part of the coolant pipe.
• Remove wiring harness from retainers, and retainers from brackets, as necessary to move the wiring out of the way.
• Remove the dip stick orange tube (it will likely break off at the base - remove all of it out of the steel tube).
• Remove oil pressure switch.
• Unbolt the oil feed line support bracket from the exhaust manifold, or the loop part of the support from the bracket so that the oil line is free back there.
• Unbolt the oil feed line from the side of the block (near the front).
• Unbolt the oil feed line from the oil filter bracket (note that some oil will drip out).
• You've done all this because the oil feed line needs to move out of the way of the coolant pipe as it wraps around the engine.
• Unbolt the coolant flange from the side of the engine.
• Unbolt the coolant pipe from the block. There are bolts/nuts located near the coolant flange (#14 above), possibly on the front of the engine (below where the vacuum bottle was and below the pipe) on some versions of the pipe, possibly back along the side of the engine (also obscured by the coolant flange) depending on the pipe version.
• Now comes the hard part.
• Move the pipe out of the engine towards the car's battery. Watch the part of the pipe sticking out towards the front of the engine. It will come up against the dipstick tube. (This is why dieselgeek needs to come up with a shorter replacement.) You'll need to move they pipe above the dipstick tube.
• Use a suitable tool to push the old o-ring off the tube.
• Reach under the injection pump support bracket and put a new o-ring on the tube (easier typed than done).
• Reassemble in reverse sequence.

I think that's it. Good luck.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the write up, did this today and this really helped. I did have to remove the speed sensor from the auto trans to get the coolant pipe out. When I rotated the pipe to clear the dipstick tube, the rear of the pipe would get stuck behind the sensor.

Also, the oring was swollen and spongy. I recently had to reseal the injection pump and I believe the fuel drip migrated along the pipe and killed the oring. Just curious how many of us who had this coolant leak experienced it after a pump leak?

MOGolf said:

Yes it is the third three in the lower right third of the diagram. It goes on the end of pipe 15 (there's only one 15).

To reiterate, N 903 653 02 for older o-ring (Jetta up to VIN 9M-Y-085 000, NB up to 1C-Y-452 905) and 06B 121 687 for newer (and all Golfs). If your VIN is close that split, then get one of each rather than get one and find the other.

Click to expand...

Great advice, I have a 7/99 German Mfg Golf and it used the N 903 653 02, even though all sources said it should be the other.

I guess it could have had an engine swap in the past, but pretty sure it is original.

this thread is awesome, just saying

I get to do this soon. Still have to order the flange o-ring and crush oil line washers. Seems that diesel may have ruined my o-ring too. My pump was replaced by previous owner due to fuel seal failure.

Just finished this "little" job. PITA. This thread was extremely helpful!

Replaced O-ring, bore looked fine with no corrosion. It still leaks. Guess I'll try coating the O-ring with silicone or Permatex #2. I'd like to meet the engineer who came up with this design (in a dark alley).

Looks like I'm doing this today. My PD150 with ALH radiator/hoses and a BEW thermostat outlet made for a tough fitment of the coolant pipe that feeds the overflow bottle. Well, while replacing my AC compressor this morning I decided to "bend" that metal pipe to make for a better fit of the alternator/coolant pipe/thermostat outlet. Well, I made it fit great, but put enough of a kink in the line to pull it out of the block just slightly, resulting in a leak. Now I have to take it all apart again, remove the line, heat it and bend it back straight again, and hope I can push it back in and have a good seal. I think a little permatex is going on in this case. I'd just replace it with a BEW pipe, but the nearest one is several days away and this is my DD so that's the last option.

Yes, this pipe is very fun. I think I'd rather swap turbos lol.

Agreed it is my least favorite thing to do.

oldpoopie said:

Agreed it is my least favorite thing to do.

Click to expand...

My very sore back agrees. However, I think it worked so it's all good!

Changed this O-Ring yesterday. Not a lot of fun, but still it wasn't too bad.

Sounds like this has been my probable issue for the last 20K miles. We couldn't find it and assumed it was the water pump even though the pump is only 30k miles old.

Doesn't sound like fun, but enough have gone down this path so I think we can manage. Need to find a heated garage...hello? Ho5G?

Had the pleasure of doing this today. Really only leaked when very cold, which didn't happen much last year, but was anticipating it getting worse. Also changed out the thermostat while the coolant was drained. I used MOGolf's short and sweet list and found this to be...well, not too bad but certainly a pain in the back. Adding a couple torque specs and bolt sizes in blue.

MOGolf said:

Obviously, the coolant should be drained (got some to replace it?). Have a drain pan under the engine.

• Unbolt the vacuum bottle bracket from the engine.
• Disconnect the wiring harness on the front side of the engine, disconnecting the injection pump, oil pressure switch, engine speed sensor, glow plugs, needle lift sender, coolant temperature sensor.
• Remove the connectors from the bracket that is a part of the coolant pipe.
• Remove wiring harness from retainers, and retainers from brackets, as necessary to move the wiring out of the way.
• Remove the dip stick orange tube (it will likely break off at the base - remove all of it out of the steel tube).
• Remove oil pressure switch. 23mm
• Unbolt the oil feed line support bracket from the exhaust manifold, or the loop part of the support from the bracket so that the oil line is free back there.
• Unbolt the oil feed line from the side of the block (near the front).
• Unbolt the oil feed line from the oil filter bracket (note that some oil will drip out). 17mm/15ft-lbs replace two copper crush washers
• You've done all this because the oil feed line needs to move out of the way of the coolant pipe as it wraps around the engine.
• Unbolt the coolant flange from the side of the engine. 10mm/7ft-lbs
• Unbolt the coolant pipe from the block. There are bolts/nuts located near the coolant flange (#14 above), possibly on the front of the engine (below where the vacuum bottle was and below the pipe) on some versions of the pipe, possibly back along the side of the engine (also obscured by the coolant flange) depending on the pipe version. On my '01 there was only one 7mm hex-key bolt located on the block under the coolant temp sensor and then one 11mm bolt under where the vacuum bottle was. Not sure the difference in bolts here...
• Now comes the hard part.
• Move the pipe out of the engine towards the car's battery. Watch the part of the pipe sticking out towards the front of the engine. It will come up against the dipstick tube. (This is why dieselgeek needs to come up with a shorter replacement.) You'll need to move they pipe above the dipstick tube.
• Use a suitable tool to push the old o-ring off the tube.Used a 4-piece set of craftsman picks (look like dentist tools) of various angles that work great.
• Reach under the injection pump support bracket and put a new o-ring on the tube (easier typed than done).
• Reassemble in reverse sequence.

I think that's it. Good luck.

Click to expand...

could be the pump

Leak fixed! Thanks to my pal, Mike!

We got the leak fixed. Purchased the o-ring at the point of occurrence (leak), the O-ring for the coolant flange, and two copper (crush) washers for the oil line terminal end. Just under $10 @ Dick Hannah VW in NE Portland. Make sure you have at least one bottle (1-2 qts) of pink coolant (PentoFrost SF). Timewise, it took ~3 hours for us to make this repair. Lessons learned: 1) Throw some old rags down under the car (or something absorbant). You don't actually drain all of the coolant out initially. I would guess 16-32 oz came out once we finally pulled the coolant pipe out to replace the O-ring. But, it's probably a moot point. When you do this type of repair, you will have some mess to clean up. 2) When refilling the coolant back into the car, top the expansion tank off and make sure you have extra DI water and coolant in your trunk. I got the overheat alarm since I didn't put enough back in initially. 3) Another moot point for most of you pros, but make sure you have a grab tool (magnetic preferred). We dropped tools, bolts, etc. down in the engine.

Now, I have a 'check engine' light and flashing glow plug light on my dash to remedy. I imagine that one of the plugs didn't get completely connected to the manifold/cover. We checked the glow plugs; all have connectivity.

Thanks again to everyone who posted on this thread. It really helped. Thanks especially to CattleRepairMan, ParaMedix, MOGolf, and JETaah for specific instuctions!

Flashing glowplug light is likely due to you having the ignition turned to "on" while the injection pump harness was unplugged.

Crap. I have to do mine though it's lasted 250K. How long does the job take? Is it worse than a timing belt job?

elicon200 said:

Crap. I have to do mine though it's lasted 250K. How long does the job take? Is it worse than a timing belt job?

Click to expand...

Fack. I gotta do one too, at 212K on a 99.5 ALH

set aside a good 45 min to do this, it's not bad.

Didn't take long, but every damn thing under the hood seems to hook to the tube. Having my son there to help with an extra hand made all the difference. It would have been near impossible alone.

is there 2 different o rings for this tube ?
the one that came out doesn't look anything like the new one.
And the new one wont go back in

Buglite said:

is there 2 different o rings for this tube ?
the one that came out doesn't look anything like the new one.
And the new one wont go back in

Click to expand...

Yes, two different ones. There is a double wide one, and a regular one. It sounds like you need the regular narrow one. Order the O-ring for the coolant temp sensor. It will be the correct one.

Thanks !!!!!!

Still DON'T GET IT

OK, so the following instructions are crystal clear. I admit, I am mechanically challenged, but I have to fix my car, because I am also broke.

I am taking out the pipe. I have a new pipe. I have a problem prying the pipe out. It is too tight.

• Unbolt the coolant flange from the side of the engine. 10mm/7ft-lbs
• Unbolt the coolant pipe from the block. There are bolts/nuts located near the coolant flange (#14 above), possibly on the front of the engine (below where the vacuum bottle was and below the pipe) on some versions of the pipe, possibly back along the side of the engine (also obscured by the coolant flange) depending on the pipe version. On my '01 there was only one 7mm hex-key bolt located on the block under the coolant temp sensor and then one 11mm bolt under where the vacuum bottle was. Not sure the difference in bolts here...

I cannot locate the COOLANT FLANGE bolts. HELP....does anyone have a pic of how they look like in real life?

Does anyone has pics or a Diagram

There is a screw on the front of the engine below the vacuum bottle location. You have to look under the line to see it.

There is another bolt that requires a 8mm hex bit located below the location of the engine coolant temperature sensor

What is the VACUUM BOTTLE

What is the LINE

What is the ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Please help..any one have pics or a diagram?

The coolant flange must be removed from the head...

It is on the drivers side of the head. Two 10mm bolts hold it to the head.

I should add that on automatic cars it is plastic and should just be replaced with a new one.
http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1055

Manual cars have an aluminum version that will just need a new o-ring,
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1884