Dried coolant found on oil pan

apari006

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I seem to have the same problem with my 2001 Jetta, line (#10/O-ring#11) going into the block. Good thing is the timing belt will be replace soon.

jasonTDI said:
Are you shure it's not the hard plastic tube that comes strait out of the block under the inj pump? That's about $14 at the dealer with the oring.
Woulld anyone have the PN for this (line and O-ring)?

Is it as complicated to replace as JETaah says when you replace the water pump?

A
 

MOGolf

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Yes it is complicated. The water pump is on the other "side" of the engine from the tube. Just the o-ring is all that needs to be replaced. The tube does not need to be replaced unless there is physical damage to it. It is not plastic as reported by jasonTDI in that post.

06B 121 687 is the o-ring
037 121 688 for distributor flange o-ring
N 013 812 3 for copper sealing washers on turbo oil feed line
038 103 663 for the dip stick funnel (if it is brittle and breaks you might need this)
 

apari006

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Thanks for the quick reply.
How does the line come off the block, a quick glance did not revealed any screws. To replace the o-ring, does the line just needs to be pulled from the block?
 
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MOGolf

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There is a screw on the front of the engine below the vacuum bottle location. You have to look under the line to see it.

There is another bolt that requires a 8mm hex bit located below the location of the engine coolant temperature sensor.
 
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JaredT

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MOGolf said:
Yes it is complicated. The water pump is on the other "side" of the engine from the tube. Just the o-ring is all that needs to be replaced. The tube does not need to be replaced unless there is physical damage to it. It is not plastic as reported by jasonTDI in that post.

06B 121 687 is the o-ring
037 121 688 for distributor flange o-ring
N 013 812 3 for copper sealing washers on turbo oil feed line
038 103 663 for the dip stick funnel (if it is brittle and breaks you might need this)
Thought I might add a quick update to this thread. I've just done this fix on my y2kbug (2000 NB) and ETKA shows the same part number that MOGolf posted. This however wasn't the part that worked for my car. The older cars, evidently up through some time in 2000. Anyway to cut to the chase, the VW part number for this older oring is
- 903 653 02
or you can do like I did and just run down to your local parts store with your old oring.

-jt
 

rhskcdn

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I have the same leak at 270K kms. Thanks for posting the part numbers... the ETKA cooling hose diagram is not the most helpful.
 

SyNtAxx

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I think I have the same leak. Leaking from a small diameter black pipe from under the left side when looking in the engine bay under the injection pump. It is buried in there for lack of a better word. It also does not look like fun to fix either. The leak is small, but it seems to be getting larger. I haven't been able to find a detailed "How-To" to fix the issue.

That being said, is this something somebody would be willing to tackle at Impex-Fest if the seal lasts that long?

Thanks,

Nick
 

rhskcdn

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I'll try and take some photos of this when I do it... not too sure it will be worthy of a 'how-to' ;)

There's a bit of confusion in some of the above links as to what exactly is leaking in the original picture. My leak looks to be from the o-ring at #3 in the image below or possibly the end of hose #15 which takes coolant from the heater core to the block. The thermostat is at #20 and the temp sensor is at #9. Bentley doesn't offer much advise with respect to removing the end of hose #15.

 

MOGolf

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O-ring 3 is the pain-to-replace part that leaks. Also get a replacement o-ring #8 in the diagram above, and (your choice) replacement crush washers for the turbo oil feed line at the oil filter housing, and a replacement orange dipstick tube. Examine your glow plug wiring harness. It might be aging to the point of falling apart when you remove it from the glow plugs.

Obviously, the coolant should be drained (got some to replace it?). Have a drain pan under the engine.
  • Unbolt the vacuum bottle bracket from the engine.
  • Disconnect the wiring harness on the front side of the engine, disconnecting the injection pump, oil pressure switch, engine speed sensor, glow plugs, needle lift sender, coolant temperature sensor.
  • Remove the connectors from the bracket that is a part of the coolant pipe.
  • Remove wiring harness from retainers, and retainers from brackets, as necessary to move the wiring out of the way.
  • Remove the dip stick orange tube (it will likely break off at the base - remove all of it out of the steel tube).
  • Remove oil pressure switch.
  • Unbolt the oil feed line support bracket from the exhaust manifold, or the loop part of the support from the bracket so that the oil line is free back there.
  • Unbolt the oil feed line from the side of the block (near the front).
  • Unbolt the oil feed line from the oil filter bracket (note that some oil will drip out).
  • You've done all this because the oil feed line needs to move out of the way of the coolant pipe as it wraps around the engine.
  • Unbolt the coolant flange from the side of the engine.
  • Unbolt the coolant pipe from the block. There are bolts/nuts located near the coolant flange (#14 above), possibly on the front of the engine (below where the vacuum bottle was and below the pipe) on some versions of the pipe, possibly back along the side of the engine (also obscured by the coolant flange) depending on the pipe version.
  • Now comes the hard part.
  • Move the pipe out of the engine towards the car's battery. Watch the part of the pipe sticking out towards the front of the engine. It will come up against the dipstick tube. (This is why dieselgeek needs to come up with a shorter replacement.) You'll need to move they pipe above the dipstick tube.
  • Use a suitable tool to push the old o-ring off the tube.
  • Reach under the injection pump support bracket and put a new o-ring on the tube (easier typed than done).
  • Reassemble in reverse sequence.
I think that's it. Good luck.
 

MOGolf

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Warning: it is much easier to type the procedure than to do it.
 

Powder Hound

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rhskcdn said:
... My leak looks to be from the o-ring at #3 in the image...
Ummm... which o-ring #3? There's only 3 of them in that illustration. I know you mean the one where the '3' is in the lower right of the illustration, I only point this out so everyone will *finally* see that it is NOT the o-ring at the thermostat housing and it is NOT the o-ring that seals the water pump.

I had this same problem a year and a bit ago, provided my VIN so they'd order the correct o-ring for me, and after all the work to get the tube loose found I had the wrong o-ring. Sheesh. I gave up, applied some silicone sealant for plumbing around the o-ring, and shoved it all back together. It hasn't leaked since. Not from that point, anyway.
 

MOGolf

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Yes it is the third three in the lower right third of the diagram. It goes on the end of pipe 15 (there's only one 15).

To reiterate, N 903 653 02 for older o-ring (Jetta up to VIN 9M-Y-085 000, NB up to 1C-Y-452 905) and 06B 121 687 for newer (and all Golfs). If your VIN is close that split, then get one of each rather than get one and find the other.
 

JPR

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New O-ring seems too narrow

MOgolf,

By disconnecting more hoses, I was able to get the pipe out to where I can easily remove, clean, and replace the o-ring. However the new o-ring seems about 1/32 too narrow for the groove that it slips into. The black line under the o-ring is remaining groove gap. I also included a picture of the old o-ring which seems slightly wider. I used the part number that you posted earlier in this thread and purchased from worldimpex. Does the o-ring simply compress and spread out to fill the groove when I insert it back into the block?
[/IMG][/IMG]
 

JPR

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Second picture

Here is the other picture, for some reason it it didn't post in my previous post.
[/IMG]
 
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MOGolf

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That will work just fine. It should fit snug when the pipe is put back in. It's the diameter that is important.
 

JPR

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That's good. It was indeed snug going back in. I had to apply as much force pushing as I did pulling. I was sure glad to have had the injector fuel lines out of the way while wrestling around with that pipe.
 

SyNtAxx

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Well, I finally had a chance to dig in and perform the needed operation. I was successful in replacing the O-Ring but all the while I struggled with the coolant pipe I was thinking, "I cant belive I am doing all this for a 1.50$ part!" Despite my bruised forearms and hunched back I was proud once I was done :D .

Seems to have resolved the issue and thats good news, the bad news is I managed to lose the dang spring clip that holds my needle sensor together while I was putting it on it snapped out of my hands and flew away :( . In addition to that I broke the retaining clip on the plug of the temp sensor, its on but I have to find a way to make it permanent. Can I replace the outer cover or does a new pigtale need to be put in place?

In any case thanks MoGolf for the instructions and part numbers!

Nick
 
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ScottyB

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I have been troubled with this leak for over a month now (~120K Miles). It was sorta funny actually because it wouldn't leak until after I shut the car off when I got home after work. We joked that it was marking its territory. I thought it was the thermostat housing but finally saw this today. I got the pipe out just a bit ago but also keep thinking and looking at the whole thing in disbelief. Its a crazy design that's terrible for maintenance. I may just wait till tomorrow to start going back the other way. I don't think I need that much frustration all crammed into one day.

Thanks MoGolf for the writeup
 
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rhskcdn

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Just curious, is it necessary to replace the copper sealing washers (N 013 812 3) on the turbo oil line? The local dealer had everything in stock except these and questioned why I wanted to replace them.
 

JPR

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Crush Seals

Yes, they are crush seals. When I replaced mine, I questioned whether they were the right part. They were so fat compared to what I had removed. If you need to get the car back on the road, you can try putting the old seals back and see if they leak. They are easy enough to get to, so you can replace them once you get them from the dealer or another vendor. They are cheap, so no real reason to take a risk if you don't have to.
 

GD

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Does the whole pipe need to be removed and cleaned or can you just replace the O ring without removing the pipe?

Thanks
 

MOGolf

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Just the o-ring.
 

GD

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MOGolf said:
Just the o-ring.
Thanks, any cleaning of the pipe in that area seems too tight to do, is cleaning essential?
 
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