running bad, black smoke, and no check engine light.

i bought a 2003 tdi 1.9 back in dec. Edit: it has 138k miles. no problems with it other then going into limb mode once. the other day the engine started to make a louder diesel knock then normal. so i pull over and killed it. when i started it again the knock was still there and it started to spit black smoke when i hit the accelerator.
i think black smoke means to much fuel?
ive checked for a vacuum leak. i found there was a large crack on the hose leading to the brake drum? i removed it and plugged the port. no change. i checked the vacuum coming off the engine and it read 28 in/mg. i so tried to remove the vacuum line completely. also no change. which to me sounds like the vacuum system is doing nothing.
i was able the manually actuate the egr valve and get the motor to sound some what normal.
ive tried fresh diesel. no change.
ive run out of ideas and im no mechanic so i don't even know where to start. any help would be nice. every bit saves a penny at my local shop.

Check to make sure all your intercooler [IC] piping is properly connected. ECU won't really know and will fuel as though everything is OK: lots of fuel, not enough air = black smoke.

I'd also make sure that you don't have pooled oil in the lower (front passenger side near the bumper) IC pipe there. If the turbo is dying (or has died) then it'll puke oil into the intake system and if you give a big demand for fuel you'll also get a big slug of oil (and bad things can happen).

If the piping is OK then I'd be concerned that any abnormal noise is likely from something more serious, likely the turbo.

Going into limp mode means that there was an over-boost situation. That implicates the turbo, though doesn't necessarily mean that it's the turbo that's the source of the problem. There are extensive threads (I think there's a "master") on "limp mode."

First rule with these cars is to not put off finding out what's causing problems. Failure to attend to a problem early can readily turn into a very expensive repair.

i looked over the intercooler piping. all seemed to be connected. so i removed the rubber hose that connects to the passenger side of the egr valve. there was some sludge in both the plastic and rubber pipes. i would describe it as wet dust. also where the plastic pipe connected to what looked like a small radiator there was a thin layer of sludge beneath it. i wouldn't call it a pool. again more like wet dust.

noted dont just start popping off hoses and listening for changes. go boom boom.

hexeros said:

i looked over the intercooler piping. all seemed to be connected. so i removed the rubber hose that connects to the passenger side of the egr valve. there was some sludge in both the plastic and rubber pipes. i would describe it as wet dust. also where the plastic pipe connected to what looked like a small radiator there was a thin layer of sludge beneath it. i wouldn't call it a pool. again more like wet dust.

noted dont just start popping off hoses and listening for changes. go boom boom.

Click to expand...

OK, "the plastic pipe connected to what looked like a small radiator there was a thin layer of sludge beneath it" - that is good. Very common (would say it's almost mandatory) for there to be at least a light coating of oil.

You checked the piping going to the turbo? This is perhaps the most common place where a pipe connection comes loose. Triggering an overboost means that you were putting an abnormal amount of boost into that piping, an amount that might, perhaps, pop a hose loose.

What is "go boom boom" mean?

https://postimg.org/image/ffr3l4sa3/


this is the bottom of the turbo i believe.


https://postimg.org/image/upqysbnsb/

this is the same hose but the opposite end. taken from a top down view over the passenger side.

https://postimg.org/image/njz7pvep7/

this is where it connects to the small radiator. taken from the passenger tire well.

they are all secure.


"go boom boom" i was making a joke about not unplugging random hoses anymore or the car may blow up.


edit: tomorrow ill get it blocked up and ill be able to get a better look.

On second thought i went ahead and jacked it up. i follow the IC back to the turbo. there was a few drops of oil in the last hose. the outside of the turbo was rusty but not oily. i was able to test the turbine shaft. there was very little play. however it does not spin freely. any ideas?


Edit: it does spin but will not free spin.

hexeros said:

On second thought i went ahead and jacked it up. i follow the IC back to the turbo. there was a few drops of oil in the last hose. the outside of the turbo was rusty but not oily. i was able to test the turbine shaft. there was very little play. however it does not spin freely. any ideas?


Edit: it does spin but will not free spin.

Click to expand...

No axial play is what you want, and very little radial play (which is essentially buffered with/by oil pressure).

Not spinning freely is NOT good. Not sure, but this is likely only attributable to a bad bearing/bushing, which equates to a bad turbo.

Do you recall any issues of running low on oil? Oil light coming on? (low oil pressure is not good on a turbo) Any signs of someone mucking around with the turbo oil feed line? Line could have had a momentary blockage?

it got low once but still within margin on the dig stick. ill pull the turbo today. is there any way to test it other then play?

edit: there was no oil light. i just so happened to check.

I'd hope that someone else could come along and provide input here. I don't really have much experience in turbo issues (other than one with slightly sticking vanes; and daughter's car's turbo oil feed line broke and she drove the car 15 minutes with the oil light on! [reputable shop diagnosed turbo to still be OK]).

It's my understanding that if the turbo doesn't spin freely that it's bad. Not sure if there is ANY situation in which it wouldn't spin freely and it is still OK.

Update. The turbo is fine had a mechanic check it out. There is a small leak around the waste gate axle. Did some more troubleshooting. Disconnect the fuel lines. Found that the engine would run normally when there was no fuel being delivered to the second cylinder. Removed the valve cover and found excessive wear on the first lobe of the second cylinder. Did a compression test. 480 440 480 475. Going to pull the head this weekend. If it's not repairable are the any good after market heads?

contact frank06 about any head work needed

If it's just a bad cam and lifter you may not even need to pull the head

How do I contact him. How do I test it without pulling the head?

hexeros said:

How do I contact him. How do I test it without pulling the head?

Click to expand...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/member.php?u=31923

hexeros,

I got your message and think we need to slow down and think this through before you jump into pulling the cylinder head off the block.

I don't know how much of the vacuum piping you removed, but I think the easier thing to do is to replace the upside down 'V' of the hard pipe going from the vacuum pump to the brake booster with an equal length of 5/16" vacuum hose. That is a very easy, cheap and sure replacement for the VW OEM hard pipe.

If you remove any vacuum hoses, you can defeat the whole system. Make sure each connection is plugged in. A common problem in the Jetta is a 'Y' connection under the windshield cowling that can easily come loose and defeat your entire vacuum system. Make sure all connections are secure. The link I like for vacuum hose diagrams is Dave Linger's...
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=290286&highlight=alh+vacuum+diagram

It shows three different arrangements from stock, EGR delete and EGR/ ASV removed.

Another possibility; you may have a broken vacuum actuator on the EGR/ ASV valve. The ASV (anti-shutter valve) is the butterfly valve that looks like a throttle plate, which is on the intake manifold, on the passenger side of the engine, with a boost hose attached to it. The butterfly valve's normal position with key in 'RUN' position is wide open. When the key is turned OFF, the vacuum dash pot for the ASV is activated and vacuum will operate the butterfly closed for a few seconds, then it returns to the open position. If you can move the ASV with no resistance, it could have a broken arm to the vacuum diaphragm. The ASV can then shut and open with no control, and cause all sorts of mischief.

I do not think this is a head issue, nor do I think you need to remove the cylinder head at this time. If you have had a timing belt issue is reason for checking the CAM and LIFTERS, but until you find a interference hit on the cam followers in the cylinder head from timing being off, don't make work for yourself.

i check the egr valve and the asv. i checked the asv by removing the vacuum hose pressed the diaphragm then placed my finger over the inlet for the hose. the valve remained closed. when i removed my finger the valve opened. so there should be no leak in the diaphragm. ill double check the vacuum hoses to tomorrow.

what has me confused. if it was a timing problem wouldn't it affect all of the the cylinders not just the second one?

what steps should i take?


Edit: tomorrow ill make a video so you can see what i see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQnDJ0t-y6s&feature=youtu.be

when against my better judgment and pulled the head off. turned the cam and watched the valves. the exhaust valve didn't move. checked the cam and found the lobe was completely round.

are there any trusted aftermarket parts?

Waiting to see what Frank says...

Not good. That's what I say. I'd rather see a picture of the damaged cylinder head. No cam in.

A completely round cam lobe doesn't necessarily mean the head is ruined, however it probably does mean your oil pump is. All that hard metal from cam and followers goes through the oil pump and tears it up. Fortunately, if you follow our lead, the oil pan is not all that difficult to remove and 4 bolts later, the oil pump is in your hand. Let us know if we can help with that.

If you want, Hexeros, I can sent you a UPS label. Aftermarket parts? We use LOADS of aftermarket parts. They happen to have the same name as the manufacturers of OEM parts. Like Reinz, Lemforder, Nural, Mahle, Bosch, INA, Mann etc.

If you like, a couple of picture of the head and we can tell you if the head is repairable. We generally repair what you have. If you are in a hurry, we have replacement cylinder heads and can do core exchanges.

I'd recommend getting in touch with me by one of three methods. PM, email or call. Call is best.