2009 P2015 code - intake manifold and flap valves help DIY

Hi everyone,
2009 jetta TDI 76,000 miles
Check engine light on.

Took it to the dealer, they diagnosed it to P2015 fault and recommend replacing the intake manifold ($390 part) with labor $704. I called another dealer and they wanted $900.

Ist VW Parts .com has the part for $285 plus shipping.

Is it an easy DIY?

Car seems to be running fine and mileage seems the same.

Thanks,
Terry

I'm curious about this as well. FWIW my 2009 has had the P2015 fault for over 10,000 miles now and I've noticed no ill effects.

I do not know how hard it would be to change, but it shouldn't be that hard - it's right in the front of the engine. Riverside VW sells it for $280.80 and it is a lot closer to you, so you wouldn't have to pay shipping (although you would have to pay CA sales tax). Plus, the parts manager is a member here and a supporter of the TDIClub.

http://riversidevwparts.com/parts/2009/VOLKSWAGEN/JETTA/TDI/?siteid=217429&vehicleid=1443117&section=FUEL%20SYSTEM&group=FUEL%20INDUCTION&subgroup=INTAKE&component=INTAKE%20MANIFOLD

Have Fun!

Don

Ive got the same code to, and its been on there for about 4 months. I have looked into fixing it extensively and am getting close to finally doing the repair. It doesnt seem like a hard fix but i dont have the exact tools. An i still got to buy VCDS. :/... Im going to put up a DIY though after i fix the problem. Hope that helps a little.

Not that hard to do . you do not need a VCDS to do the repair.

bob56 said:

Not that hard to do . you do not need a VCDS to do the repair.

Click to expand...

How do you get away without using a VCDS? In order to get that intake manifold out you have to remove those fuel line that go over top of the manifold. If you have a better way of doing it I'm all ears but I don't think there's any other option.

I just popped this code. Thus far it comes and goes and I have not seen any drop in mpg or rough running. Is this a big deal to fix?

DTC codes

TerryE said:

Hi everyone,
2009 jetta TDI 76,000 miles
Check engine light on.

Took it to the dealer, they diagnosed it to P2015 fault and recommend replacing the intake manifold ($390 part) with labor $704. I called another dealer and they wanted $900.

Ist VW Parts .com has the part for $285 plus shipping.

Is it an easy DIY?

Car seems to be running fine and mileage seems the same.

Thanks,
Terry

Click to expand...

When you come to this forum seeking indepth answers to your TDI problem remember this...The "P-Code" is rather useless.
To assist your search for a solution it is best to have the VAG DTC (Volkswagan Diagnostic Trouble code). The "P-code" is only a generic reference number. As an owner having the VAG DTC is important.
There is a "Cross Referance" list availabe on-line:
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/vw.dtc.table.htm

Book mark this page so that you have a ready referance when you use a generic "P-Code"

Your P-Code: P-2015 = VAG DTC 2968

Without a proper VAG DTC there is no competent means to give you a reliable answer.
Having said all of that ...here is the info that I have:
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Technical Service Bulletin Transaction No.: 2019394/1
01-08-32 - DTC 2968 P-2015 Stored in ECM Fault Memory (U.S. Only)
Release date: Nov 21, 2008
Condition:
DTC P2015 (2968) Stored in ECM Fault Memory (U.S. Only)
DTC will set with or without MIL ON
DTC Description:
P2015 (2968) Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Sporadic
Technical Background:
• Intake manifold tumble flaps sporadically stick.
• Engine performance is not affected.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////

My thoughts.....Remove and clean the valve and then see if the problem is resolved befor you toss a bucket of $$$ at P2015

Some further input consering DTC P-2015 (2968):
Since VAG (Volkswagan of America Group) has an existing TSB (from 2008) addressing this problem I would ask if the repair cost is covered under TSB# 2019394/1

If it were me standing at the service counter I would provide the TSB # and argue this point since VAG is fully aware of an existing problem with your TDI.

The only reason I say this is due to the fact that your 2009 TDI was well into production AFTER the TSB was issued in 2008.

It never hurts to ask. The worst that they can say is no.
You can also contact VW sustomer support and file a request for consideration of a "good will" refund....again the worst thing they can say is...no.

It never hurts to ask...

P2015 Fix 2009 CBEA 2.0 i found this worked for me and a few others that have responded it worked for them too. hope this helps please post with results and if you don't have vcds, you can activate the motor by jumping 2 of the motor pins(dont know which of hand to try) i wouldn't give for than 4 v when testing because the sensor is built into the housing. good luck, hope this helps. http://youtu.be/yrVFpYzMX3g

[B] P2015 : sticky this!!!![/B]

rmartjr said:

P2015 Fix 2009 CBEA 2.0 i found this worked for me and a few others that have responded it worked for them too. hope this helps please post with results and if you don't have vcds, you can activate the motor by jumping 2 of the motor pins(dont know which of hand to try) i wouldn't give for than 4 v when testing because the sensor is built into the housing. good luck, hope this helps. http://youtu.be/yrVFpYzMX3g

Click to expand...

this worked for me STICKY THIS!!!! this could potentially save someone hundreds of dollars. took 2 seconds. THANK YOU rmartjr!

if you have a VAG-cOM you can actuate the motor as well as all relays, motors, etc using the "output tests" options.

Thanks, I sent and email to VWOA. Terry

Might have to try the "eclip" fix on the spare manifold I've got on the shelf. SHould be able to just plug it into a car to run output test on it before and after the fix.

I ran into this code recently on my car

Here's how I dealt with it. I won

https://sites.google.com/site/p2015fix/

I have the same code. Could you guys give some more detail as to exactly what you need to remove to get to this? I can see the linkage and what is wrong, but I don't want to take apart a bunch of crap I don't need to. I am still trying to decide between e-clip and screw repair.

lowvo said:

Here's how I dealt with it. I won

https://sites.google.com/site/p2015fix/

Click to expand...

This worked for me!! Thanks for the writeup, man. You saved me some serious cash!

Just to add my $.02 about this problem. I have an 09 TDI SportWagen. At around 90K I first got the infamous p2015 code. At the time it was caused by the wear of the ball joint that allows the arm to slip off, and that many fix using the 'e-clip' approach.

I did something similar to this, but probably simpler - the ball part on the motor arm has a coaxial hole, so I put a small screw in it with a washer. This solution held up for 10K miles, when I got the p2015 code again. This time there was no slippage of the arm - the motor was just stuck and as someone above described, jiggling it out of position and then resetting the code made it work for a little while, however not for long.

Since the code says this is related to the position sensor of the motor, I thought I'd look for what that sensor was. I took the housing of the motor apart to look inside. I believe the position sensor is magnetic. There is a small magnet attached to the axle of the largest sprocket that is oriented very precisely and on the inside of the plastic cover you can clearly see embedded in the plastic some sort of a circuit or sensor.

This is where my .02 come in - I do believe that the sensor is malfunctioning and the part is basically broken and needs to be replaced, since the sensor is integrated into the housing. Maybe because the magnet weakens with time, maybe for some other reason, I'm not sure. What I'm certain of is this has nothing to do with the mechanical movement of the arm and it going beyond the mechanical limit - it's the sensor that's lying about the position of the arm to the computer.

Long story short - was able to find the part by itself from a recent TDI (seller said 2012 Passat - it matched the part number exactly) and replaced it. The problem went away.

I do think the solutions that limit the travel of the arm are brilliant, but they may not last, since the sensor may continue to deteriorate. However, knowing that you can't get the new part just by itself (and only as part of the new manifold that costs way too much), I understand why most would opt for this solution. I just got lucky that I found the 'almost new' part.

YMMV and there probably are other causes of this problem.

This is a good insight. It seems there are several valid band-aids. If VW sold just this motor, it would really help us.

My 2009 TDI Jetta SW Just threw a P2015.

After reading and watching the listed YouTube videos I was worried.

I watched this one and fixed mine in about 90 seconds:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HbIL5u0bng

The "arm" simply had shifted partially off the "knuckle" and popping it back on with a screwdriver fixed it (for now).

Tips: I had to have my engine running for the arm to move toward the front far enough to "pop" it back onto the knuckle.

When I first started putting it back on completely, the arm then moved out a bit further (assumably into the "correct" open position).

After fully seating it, I turned the car off and back on, but still had a check engine light.

It does a little "dance" every time you turn the car off (and makes that repeated motorized sound we hear every time we turn the car off in the garage).

You have to turn the car off and let it do it's complete cycle of (presumably) recalibration, then the CEL will go off.

Based on others posts, my fix will probably only be temporary, but at least it turns off the CEL and fixes it for the time being.

I can't see a slot to put an eclip into, and havent looked for the potential screw-hole for a washer/screw.

If it comes back on I'll investigate those options more thoroughly.

Hope that helps someone!

craigldavis said:

I can't see a slot to put an eclip into, and havent looked for the potential screw-hole for a washer/screw.

Click to expand...

Well, that's the tricky part. If VW thought they needed an e-clip or screw, they would have included provisions for one. You kind of have to do it yourself, either cutting the groove, or drilling and tapping the hole.

With all of this information relating to the flap on the manifold I have added this to my 10,000 mile maintenance routine. I clean the joint and then put a squirt of white lithium grease on it to help keep things moving freely.

Only time will tell if it's worth the effort.

evoblade said:

Well, that's the tricky part. If VW thought they needed an e-clip or screw, they would have included provisions for one. You kind of have to do it yourself, either cutting the groove, or drilling and tapping the hole.

Click to expand...

Drilling isn't necessary, at least in my case. Once you take the flap motor off (3 long screws) you can see the coaxial hole in the "knuckle" or "ball joint". Tapping it isn't necessary either as the whole thing is made out of (soft) plastic. Then it's just a matter of finding the right screw.

Thanks, This worked for me for the time being.

craigldavis said:

My 2009 TDI Jetta SW Just threw a P2015.

After reading and watching the listed YouTube videos I was worried.

I watched this one and fixed mine in about 90 seconds:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HbIL5u0bng

The "arm" simply had shifted partially off the "knuckle" and popping it back on with a screwdriver fixed it (for now).

Tips: I had to have my engine running for the arm to move toward the front far enough to "pop" it back onto the knuckle.

When I first started putting it back on completely, the arm then moved out a bit further (assumably into the "correct" open position).

After fully seating it, I turned the car off and back on, but still had a check engine light.

It does a little "dance" every time you turn the car off (and makes that repeated motorized sound we hear every time we turn the car off in the garage).

You have to turn the car off and let it do it's complete cycle of (presumably) recalibration, then the CEL will go off.

Based on others posts, my fix will probably only be temporary, but at least it turns off the CEL and fixes it for the time being.

I can't see a slot to put an eclip into, and havent looked for the potential screw-hole for a washer/screw.

If it comes back on I'll investigate those options more thoroughly.

Hope that helps someone!

Click to expand...

We have a P2015 manifold fix to fix this issue. The intake manifold does not need to replaced. This part also precludes the somewhat tricky procedure for drilling and tapping a set screw. Also, in this post I show how to use VagCom/VCDS to diagnose how far away from a failure you are with regards to P2015:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4690123&postcount=45

fix for the P2015 code

I just got the infamous P2015 code after the check engine light came on. However, while researching this I see dieselgeek has a brilliant solution. It seems the code is thrown because the flap gets warn and goes too far back. This little machined piece prevents it from doing that. I am going to order the part and give it a try. The part is $64 and they have a great how to video. Takes about 15 minutes to complete the repair.

http://www.dieselgeek.com/P2015_Repair_Bracket_p/egr-p2015.htm

just installed the DIESELGEEK bracket on my car last weekend. per VCDS I was one step from throwing the 2015 code. After bracket install I am now one step off of new sensor position readings. I have 116,000 miles on car. Installed on my car and another members at same time. Did mine first, took about half hour including the time watching dieselgeek video how-to. on the second car took about 10 minutes to install.

I just installed the DIESELGEEK kit also, works like a charm. It fixed my P2015 and P2016 (related). Highly recommended. Just make sure you remove the motor to install. Jim had a video where he put the bracket on while the motor was still installed. Don't even try it. I think he took it down after I called him. Unless you are the guy making these and you put them on and off dozens of times, it's not gonna happen. I like this solution a lot better than the home-made fixes I was considering.

I must be doing something wrong, because I have been unable to successfully install one of these yet. Seems so simple, too.