Air intake filter...oops

So I bought the aFe intake filter for my 2014 Audi Q5 TDI a few days ago.. but I bought and installed the blue oiled filter..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00727FG9O/ref=psdcmw_15714151_t1_B00727FGEE

When I should have ordered oil-free one..(and I did just yesterday)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00727FGEE/ref=psdcmw_15714151_t1_B00727FG9O

My question to you guys is: should I be worried about possible oil getting on my MAF? The filter has only been installed for 3 days and the gray oil-free filter comes in two days. Should I worry about driving on the blue oiled filter for two more days (5 days installed total)? Or should I be fine driving about 60 more miles until the oil free filter shows up? I had no idea the blue one was even oiled until I felt the actual filter . What do you guys think? Thank you for your opinions!

Read this thread:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=290373

Your car already left the factory with a superior air cleaner setup.

it's just a drop in filter

DieselDeeds said:

The filter has only been installed for 3 days and the gray oil-free filter comes in two days. !

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walk over to your trash can
grab the perfectly clean OE air filter off the top
reinstall it
return both aftermarket filters and use the $146 toward something that'll make a difference, generally software tweaks

your maf is probably fine, honda has started oiling their paper filters for the last few years and their MAFs last longer than most

The question of what to do about the MAF depends on how you drove the last 3 days.
If you kept the revs low/normal then I would wait and see if the performance degrades.
If you floored it to see if you could feel or hear the difference then some oil could
have been entrained into the air enough to contaminate the MAF and I would use
some MAF cleaner spray on it just to be safe.

For those of you saying the aftermarket intake does nothing, I have some questions. I’m not claiming to know more than anyone regarding this situation, I’m purely a data-driven person.. so you intake nay-sayers, how do you explain this:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/show...-hole-testing?highlight=Modified stock airbox

Unless diesel intakes are completely different than gas/petrol intakes, this test shows that afe’s intake, and other mods afterwards, have proven performance gains. To be clear.. I’m not shutting anyone down or saying your word doesnt carry meaning, I just want to know facts and data-driven results.

DieselDeeds said:

For those of you saying the aftermarket intake does nothing, I have some questions. I’m not claiming to know more than anyone regarding this situation, I’m purely a data-driven person.. so you intake nay-sayers, how do you explain this:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/show...-hole-testing?highlight=Modified stock airbox
Unless diesel intakes are completely different than gas/petrol intakes, this test shows that afe’s intake, and other mods afterwards, have proven performance gains. To be clear.. I’m not shutting anyone down or saying your word doesnt carry meaning, I just want to know facts and data-driven results.

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Bingo!

The negligible (if any) increase in flow is in no way worth the added wear that all of the dust and junk getting through those filters will cause.

If we are trying to improve airflow before the cold side of the turbo, wouldn't the ECU see increased volume or pressure at the MAP sensor and simply adjust the N75 accordingly to create the same amount of boost?

If we were to introduce a RAM air or other intake system, the engine controls would just adjust around any potential benefit to create the same amount of engine output.

I expect that the desired throaty sound at WOT produced by a K&N (or similar) would be negated by the turbo.

Not to mention the other reasons why the engine does not need an oil soaked air filter in place of the OE drop in unit. These have been beat to death already!

Probably the biggest intake upgrade is to clean the snow screen frequently

And the fact you can get way higher horsepower than original through those filters prove that they are not restricting. Sure you might get few hp more with air filter that doesn't filter as well, but the oem filter is not the first bottleneck.

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DieselDeeds said:

For those of you saying the aftermarket intake does nothing, I have some questions. I’m not claiming to know more than anyone regarding this situation, I’m purely a data-driven person.. so you intake nay-sayers, how do you explain this:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/show...-hole-testing?highlight=Modified stock airbox
Unless diesel intakes are completely different than gas/petrol intakes, this test shows that afe’s intake, and other mods afterwards, have proven performance gains. To be clear.. I’m not shutting anyone down or saying your word doesnt carry meaning, I just want to know facts and data-driven results.

Click to expand...

Did you notice that the post does not state what type of car the poster tested and he got almost 1 PSI of additional boost after he took a hole saw to some internal part of his airbox. (probably something important like a water baffle that prevents water ingestion) There was no mention of any improvements with the filter alone.

An increase of less than 1 PSI in boost is pretty insignificant and could be attributed to BARO/TEMP/Humidity differences when the 2 test were run. No real data in what you posted.

Ol'Rattler said:

Did you notice that the post does not state what type of car the poster tested and he got almost 1 PSI after he took a hole saw to some internal part of his airbox. (probably something important like a water baffle that prevents water ingestion) There was no mention of any improvements with the filter alone.

A less than 1 PSI in boost is pretty insignificant and could be attributed to BARO/TEMP/Humidity differences when the 2 test were run. No real data in what you posted.

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I did see that and yes, if you continue reading through all the pages, he does have a graph comparing (with numbers logged via VCDS):
-stock filter
-aFe filter
-aFe + hole
-aFe + hole + larger inlet

And to be clear, I’m not arguing anyone here, I’m just looking for clarity because I’m seeing tests with improvements backed by data . I’ve had a modified STi, 350z, and wrx’s with different setups. The diesel world is new to me so I’m just looking for answers and clarity; go easy on me here.

The stock air filter is not a restriction. To give an example, the optional engine in the same Q5 is a supercharged 3.0L V6, that is capable of spinning some 1500 RPMs or so faster, and peaks at a higher HP. The use the same air filter as the diesel, only difference is the diesel gets a snow screen mesh around the pleats.

The TDI's ECU is controlling its intake air charge. If it cannot make that air charge due to insufficient volume, it would know it, and you'd have a DTC. The fact that with software alone, you can increase the maximum output of the engine by quite a substantial percentage, largely via increased boost and fueling, is proof that there is PLENTY of available air through the stock air filter.

Also, under most circumstances, the EGR system is supplying some air into the engine, not the air cleaner assembly. The EGR has a much higher duty cycle than in a gasoline engine (the few that even use them), it is even on at idle much of the time.

You can WATCH this happening with a scan tool.. You can WATCH the ECU's actual and requested MAF, MAP, etc. You can do with with gasoline fueled VAG engines too. You can also watch a lot of these so called "performance" filters very quickly saturate the IAT and cause fuel and timing retard, which is why we like to call these hot air intakes, because that is often exactly what they do... allow hot air from under the hood to be pulled into the intake instead of the cooler ambient air from outside, which is what the factory systems do.

If you want "more power", the air filter is not the place to look. It just isn't, sorry.

All good and I appreciate everyones’ responses. I know intake is typically never a place to start modding. On that note, I do have a stage 2 Malone tune. Mid February i have an appt to get my dpf/egr removed and replaced with rawtek’s parts. I know my next step will be a muffler delete whether that’s done by a new “catback” system (custom or flow master) with most likely another resonator put in by an exhaust shop to keep sound down. I’m looking for improved mpg, speed when I want it, and reliability.

DieselDeeds said:

For those of you saying the aftermarket intake does nothing, I have some questions. I’m not claiming to know more than anyone regarding this situation, I’m purely a data-driven person.. so you intake nay-sayers, how do you explain this:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/show...-hole-testing?highlight=Modified stock airbox
Unless diesel intakes are completely different than gas/petrol intakes, this test shows that afe’s intake, and other mods afterwards, have proven performance gains. To be clear.. I’m not shutting anyone down or saying your word doesnt carry meaning, I just want to know facts and data-driven results.

Click to expand...

"tangible results"
a small increase in flow
OH WOW, let me put that on a dyno, oh wait, thats not how it works
a few more cubic centimeters of air does not make 2 or 3 more HP
Gas runs rich or lean making more or less power at the sacrifice of heat and wear.
Diesels, do not. they are always rich, more air = more power, but when it comes to air flow, its all about some crazy dynamics that are on the realms of witchcraft.
no air filter and open turbo actually makes LESS power than with the stock air filter.
Now were not talking some crazy 1,200 HP BEAST where a few %'s means an extra 15hp

The thing is OP, your stock air filter can handle 250-300 HP no problem and keep things nice and healthy. so why change it and not put a new tune in instead?
BTW, a tangible HP gain is something at least 5HP constantly, anything less on an engine with 100-150 HP is a margin of heat soak, cold runs, dyno discrepancy, tire heat, and a lot of other variables.

BTW, the swiss cheese mods your liking here is due to a better way to cope with heat soak in an engine bay, get a bit more cooler air if you can.

On a forced induction engine I don’t see any intake systems being better than stock. I had an N/A gti Vr6. On the dyno I gained 5whp from a velocity stack not a aftermarket system. Ever since I have never deviated from the stock intake boxes and filters. Mighty car mods did a comparison on dyno and showed a power loss from these “great” aftermarket intake systems compared to stock filter and box.

Mongler98 said:

"tangible results"(snip)
Diesels, do not. they are always rich, (snip)

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UGH, more nonsense - diesel intake is unthrottled, thus its AFR is nearly always LEAN.
Please ignore Mongler98's misinformation.

Yep, pretty much every thread he posts in.... LOL. Poor guy.

flee said:

UGH, more nonsense - diesel intake is unthrottled, thus its AFR is nearly always LEAN.
Please ignore Mongler98's misinformation.

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what are you talking about? there are some "throttled intakes" for diesels (mostly to control a runaway)! and there are a number of un-throttled intake gas engines! Your point is completely moot and instead of pointing out how your information is correct, you simply just say I'm wrong and to ignore me! I don't go saying that about anyone when the're wrong or have some data that needs more explanation
Here ill explain it so a child can understand. Maybe that will help you!

Diesels technically cannot be lean (in a perfect world). Whenever you have a fuel fired engine, whether a diesel or a turbo jet, the combustion process needs air. The air serves 2 functions... . To support combustion of the mix, and provide cooling with the remaining air.

Combustion comes first, meaning that the combustion process will use the air it needs to burn the mix. If the engine has poor air flow, high EGT's will result and likely smoke due to unburned mix.

Gasoline engines, since they rely on a spark and not spontaneous combustion, need exactly the correct mix to run efficiently. Too little fuel causes extreme heat, too much fuel, while causing a cooler burn, is bad for emissions, power production, and even cylinder wall lubrication in extreme cases. EGT's in a gasser are largely controlled by firing the correct mix.

This is an extreme oversimplification and there's more to it but essentially... a diesel can't have too much air because air doesn't control the mix, but a gasser can have too much air because it does, coupled with fuel, control the mix.

No Mongler. Rich and lean are references to the stoichiometric air fuel ratio. The stoich. AFR varies depending upon the fuel used. For gasoline it's 14.7:1 , Methanol 6.5:1, and diesel is 14.5:1 . A properly tuned diesel will burn lean almost all of the time.

turbobrick240 said:

and diesel is 14.5:1 . A properly tuned diesel will burn lean almost all of the time.

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yup, usually anything richer than about 16:1 is where you get black smoke
it is leaner than stoich due to 'lost' air that is away from the injector in the valve reliefs and such

Oh man, he just keeps digging, LMAO...

turbobrick240 said:

The stoich. AFR varies depending upon the fuel used. For gasoline it's 14.7:1 , Methanol 6.5:1, and diesel is 14.5:1 . A properly tuned diesel will burn lean almost all of the time.

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Yup, since the air pathway is unrestricted... the engine gets all the air it wants.

IIRC, at idle the ratio approaches 100:1 or better, which is why they don't warm up much sitting in the driveway. And also why they can idle forever on a tankful.

Fine, ill eat this one!
I guess old folksy wisdom from down on the farm ain't no good no more!
I guess my meaning is wrong mostly due to the words "Average" and "perfect tune"

....soooo it sounds like the OEM filter is the best and I’ll just stay with that.

DieselDeeds said:

....soooo it sounds like the OEM filter is the best and I’ll just stay with that.

Click to expand...

Correct.

There ya go!