How do you remove stuck injectors?

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
My Golf Country AHU TDI swap is complete and runs well, but now I want to install some 0.216mm nozzles that I have. Each injector was a royal pain in the ass to remove due to corrosion between the two dissimular metals. I can not for the life of me remove injector #2. It spins relitively freely in the hole, but I can not get any up and down movement to happen. As of yet I have not broke the injector, but I don't want to do that. I have soaked the area in "liquid wrench" for a few days and have also sprayed some WD-40 to make things a little more slippery. I have even built a 15mm wrench with a 90 degree bend in it with a T handle on the top and have had no success with upward pulling using that tool. :(

There has to be someone out there with a few suggestions? :confused:

Thanks in advance! :)
 

Spulen81

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2004
Location
Warners, NY
When I did mine (AHU from Canada, lol) they were very stuck only one would turn just a little and that is with a pipe on the wrench. I've done nozzles a few other times but only on ALHs, they came right out so I wasn't really prepared for them not to come out.

I ended up using a slide hammer to pull them. I just welded two nuts together for the adapt the injector and slide hammer. They still took numerous wacks to get out.
 

FlyTDI Guy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 3, 2001
Location
PNW
TDI
'01 Jetta GLS
There is a special slide hammer tool available from http://www.metalnerd.com/cat10.htm . I just put one of the injector feed lines back on the top of the injector and leave it a little loose so the injector can turn. Pull up on the line as you work the injector back and forth w/your 15mm wrench. Sometimes it takes a bit but it will come out. Don't break your metal injector line. Use discretion, medium pressure, lots of back and forth.
 

sportsguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Seattle-ish
TDI
2014 Beetle DSG TDI
Yep - we have a metalnerd slide hammer and I can tell you that it works liek a charm every time. Usually we're lucky when doing swaps and they just pop out when we loosen the retainers and cycle the engine, but every now and again, the old slid ehammer comes to the rescue.

Easily worth the investment.
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
The slide hammer idea was perfect. I don't have a Metal Nerd unit here, but I do have a regular slide hammer. So I found a nut that goes on to the end of the slide hammer and then got a Vanagon lug nut (M14) and welded it to the nut that fit on the end of the slide hammer. The lug nut is perfect as the end of it is rounded so I can thread it all the way down the threads on the top of the injector unit and it won't touch the two little "over flow" pipes at the top. So, what I tried to do in over an hour yesterday took three taps with the slide hammer to accomplish. If you are planning on swapping nozzles - GET THE METAL NERD slide hammer, or if you are a welder like I am, build your own.
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2007
Location
West
TDI
2000 Jetta MT
When my engine trashed the #1 exhaust valve and mangled the injector, I fabricated my own puller using a DENT PULLER.

I had no hardware to fit the injector nut BUT I had a thread insert kit for lug bolts and a small piece of aluminum. Drilled and tapped the block for the thread insert, then screwed the dent puller into the threaded block. Three good hits pulled the broken and bent injector remains. Ugly damage.

BTW, a new nozzle and the rest of the repairs (head, piston and rod) got it back on the road. See 101 for the massive thread "I think the engine is gone".
 
Top