10mm pump on an auto alh

I have to move a jetta auto tdi quickly. Has anyone put a 10mm pump (which I have) in place of an 11mm pump (which I don't have). Will the performance be that much less ? Still driveable I would imagine ? Thoughts ? Thanks.

I'd imagine there would be some decrease in performance, but it should work just fine.

Nozzles between the two are different ( 10 mm manual vs 11 mm auto ) but should run albeit slightly under power.

Hammer mod it and toss in manual nozzles if you can.

Yea. Should be fine. Big thumbs up on hammer mod it down to something like 1.4 if it will idle that low. The lower the more fuel. You could toss a (I hate to say it) evry mod on there to add a bit more if you find it's not enough. Tune is best but that takes time and $ so in this case I recommend it maybe its oldschool but only a few bucks to do it. No way to up the boost to help with evry mod so watch out for surging.

What is your situation "move it quickly"?

You can swap the heads on the pumps. I have put a 10mm pump and manual injectors in an automatic car and it was a little smokey on take off, but otherwise seemed to be as slow as a 90hp+slushbox car would be expected to be. Once moving down the highway it was fine.

I have to get the car started in the guys driveway and get it gone within a few hours of arriving. I figured a 10mm pump would be drivable, just wanted to make sure about any issues I haven't thought of thanks for the conments.

Oh... I use my tow dolly for that sort of thing. You can rent them, too (and the truck to pull it, if you need).

if your relying on putting in a part in the attempt to drive it home form a purchase, dont. pay for it to be towed or walk away. plenty of these cars around for good prices that RUN.
just my 2 cents.
there could be MANY reasons the pump was taken off and you dont know the condition of the engine.
my take on this, $100 more than scrap price on the car or i would walk, AKA no more than $400 cash MAX. and that's if its not more than a 60 minute drive if you tow it.
So you need a timing belt, AND new components. chances are this car has been sitting for a year plus? yea, with a pump removed, your looking at timing belt job, pump instal, VCDS timing adjustments, fuel filter and maybe some other parts, oil change and probably a few other things just to get it moving, assuming its an engine with no issues other than the obvious. clearly MORE than a few hours. that's easily a full days work especially in someone's driveway. and what happens when you install it and it does not run? you going to take it all back off and walk away with a loss? or leave it on?

An update..... I bought the car, put a pump on it and in about 90 minutes total, had it running well except for a pesky code (ended up being the pump was crazy advanced) that is talked about in a thread in mkiv section. The girl friends daughter will use it for her first car, can't go wrong with how little money I have in this. The real purpose of this thread was to determine just how wonky the car would run replacing the leaky 11mm pump with a 10mm pump. The other issues I was aware of but thanks for your thoughts so others folks will learn what might happen buying a non-running car.

glad it all worked out.
needless to say but you need to get up to date on maintenance on it. find out why its so far advanced. lock out pin was good? or did you have to fudge it?

Mongler98 said:

... you need to ... find out why its so far advanced. ...

Click to expand...

Probably just resulting from having to do a rush job in a remote location. He'll work it out at home.

Cheers,

PH

It was addressed in the other thread, but the answer to the cel is.... After swapping pumps I couldn't access the ecu using vcds due to a k1 short. I drove it home, isolated the ecu k-line wire and ran that to a temp obdII connector by itself which eliminated the short, and subsequently set the pump timing.

Glad you got it going : )