T-6? HA! T25 for the bottom screws, a stubby Phillips #2 for screw on edge near the tweeter, Phillips #3 for 3 screws under the switch panel (once you pull out its retainer and lift out the switch panel and disconnect it). Going further to remove the inner panel requires a 10mm hex socket and driver for a bunch more bolts. A T30 for the window clips behind the plugs in inner door panel and door latch bolts (may be torx or triple-square depending on vintage of vehicle). Small torx (early A4s) or special size triple-square for the door lock securing bolt.
However, your window has fallen down into the door. Grasping it is a challenge enough, and getting it to come back up is a different matter. The cables may have really bound up inside and one side may still be attached.
If the windows are tinted with a film product, I wouldn't use duct tape. It is ok for standard glass windows. You can just twist the tape so the sticky side is out where it loops over the painted surface.
Don't plan on doing an on-the-road repair. Plan on getting the car to a protected place where it can be repaired.
Growler and I recently repaired a NB. It took both of us to get the window up to the point where it could be released from the clips. Then we could remove the inner door panel, replace the cable mechanism and clips, and put it all back together. The glass had fallen all the way to the bottom of the door, and the cable was bound up in the winding mechanism.
If you're that sure it is going to break, take proactive action and replace the clips. It is a much easier job that way, and you're not carrying around stuff that you won't be able to use on a dark, rainy/sleet/snow/blizzard occassion on a road far from the nearest shelter.