Frostheater install

T_D_I_POWER · Dec 1, 2009

jayb79 said:
With a check valve, so the circulation is forced. They work like the Mr.Coffee machine. Once the water gets hot it has to come out, that is why orientation of the heater is critical.

Agree, AWA the 1-way CV works only if it's installed on the coolant return line -OUT- of the OHE. Otherwise it doesn't work if it's installed on the coolant supply line -IN- of the OHE, and therefore, it has to be removed. If CV isn't removed then coolant won't circulate.

jayb79 · Dec 1, 2009

Good call on the direction of flow. This may help some folks understand the flow.
-
-

-
1 - Expansion tank
2 - Intake manifold
3 - EGR cooler
4 - Connector
5 - Heater core
6 - Coolant center line
7 - ATF cooler (Vehicles with automatic transmission)
8 - Coolant hose, upper
9 - Coolant hose, lower (arrow shows flow from radiator)
10 - Radiator
11 - Oil cooler
12 - Coolant pump/coolant thermostat
13 - Cylinder head/cylinder block

Fumes · Dec 6, 2009

Circulation engine heaters - Tank Style are used for engine cold starting plus improved engine cab heat and defroster performance. These are plug in AC power devices. They can be particularly helpful in very cold conditions where speedy defroster performance and cab warm-up are required. Small school bus and van operations would benefit from this comfort feature.

They are called "Circulation" engine heaters, the above is from the Zerostat WEB site. They are called Circulation Heaters even though they don't have pumps in them. May what to talk to the manufacturer if you don't like the name.

______________________________________

2006 Jetta Mk4 TDI Wagon

T_D_I_POWER · Dec 6, 2009

Neither NB_TDI and jayb79 are disputing the term circulation. They're simply helping some of us in the forum who think that there's a pump in the tank to circulate the coolant, when this simple and brilliant device is just using the convection heat principal to circulate the coolant in the tank. And this what makes the devise very reliable since it has no moving parts, except the coolant.

PRKR · Dec 7, 2009

I just bought a tdi and looked all over for a "block heater" to no avail, i now know why. A frostheater's what i'm after.

As much as i'd love to be able to have the time and place to install this myself, i unfortunately do not. Now upon reading this thread it sounds like a pretty straight forward install but takes a bit of custom plumbing and mounting, so my question is:
Where should i get this done? to the best of my knowledge there aren't any recognized tdi mechanics in my area.
I have been using the dealer for the little bit of service i have needed but question how they'd approach something like this(cost, method).
I also have a mechanic i trusted with my gas engine vehicles in the past, but doubt his knowledge on the diesel. Considering this is coolant system related and seems straight forward, is his knowledge of diesels an issue?

What do you guys s'pose is my best bet?

Black00Jetta · Dec 7, 2009

If you don't feel confident enough to install the heater, the mechanic should have no problem putting this in. No real knowlegde of a diesel is required as the install is the same for both types of engines (gas/diesel). Have it installed and then enjoy the warmth!

daedalus · Dec 7, 2009

Hi PRKR,

The mechanic you trust for gas engine work should have no problems installing the FrostHeater. It is well worth the investment in time and dollars.

PRKR · Dec 7, 2009

Sweet, Thanks guys!
I kinda suspected it to be quite similar whether it be gas or diesel.

Now, i guess i should've inquired in my first post, what wattage should i get. My instinct tells me to go on the lower end since it's relatively small engine not some massive tractor engine.

The low ones seem in the 750-850 watt range. I'm waiting on a call from VW and i'll see if they know the wattage on the OEM frostheater, but any suggestions/direction would be appreciated.

T_D_I_POWER · Dec 7, 2009

IMO the 750W is sufficient for any 4-cyl. application. Btw, VW OE coolant heater Swedish made Calix is only 550W.

daedalus · Dec 7, 2009

One additional thought: make sure that he does NOT replace any coolant with Delco or anything else other than 50% VW G12+. You may want to bring a jug with you, just in case.

PRKR · Dec 7, 2009

Hmm yea, i think what i may end up doing is getting all the parts & supplies and bringing it all to my mechanic. I would assume that installation should be straight forward for him. Good point on the coolant daedalus.

Interesting to know the OEM part is 550w, knowing that, 750w should certainly suffice (as TDI power had mentioned). I looked at some similar products from other aftermarket companies, but they looked cheap so i think i'm going to try and get the 750w zerostart one from Canadian Tire. So depending what i get for a kit from CT i may have to find some hoses/fittings depending upon how resourceful my mechanic is?

thanks for the help, you guys rock!

SOLDONTDI · Dec 7, 2009

have you submitted pics yet

Catlin987987 said:
I brought mine from Candian tire and I didn't need anything, it only took me about 20 min. Iwill take pics tomarrow

Just wondering if you have put the pics online yet

SOLDONTDI · Dec 7, 2009

looking for install circ heater for Dummies

Does anyone have pics of heater outlet connection or heater inlet connection locales........just wondering where to do the splicing into the water supply.....ohhhooooooohhh scary isn't it

...Thanks in advance for ANY help. I'm not totally inclined mech, and willing to try this on my own. Cheers.

Concat · Dec 7, 2009

Catlin987987 said:
I brought mine from Candian tire and I didn't need anything, it only took me about 20 min. Iwill take pics tomarrow

Explain. You just installed a Zerostart and needed no additional parts?

And you didn't need to drain the coolant?

Pics and tutorial!!!

PS... I knew a Catlin from Edmonton... You ever live in Parkallen?

SOLDONTDI · Dec 7, 2009

Catlin987987 said:
I brought mine from Candian tire and I didn't need anything, it only took me about 20 min. Iwill take pics tomarrow

where are the pics

SOLDONTDI · Dec 7, 2009

Fumes said:
The brand for the circulating heater is Zero-Stat. They are sold at various auto-parts places including CT and they come in various wattages - I used a 1000 watt and it starts my car very good when cold. Last winter it got to -38* and when I first started the car the water temp was just under +50*c.

The instruction I followed I found searching this site. You have to remove the check-ball before you install it. It took about 1/2 an hour to install, if you PM me I will send the instructions to you if you can't find them on the site.

2006 TDI Mk4 Wagon

FUMES....do you still have the instructions to the install of the circulating heater.....would love to have a peak before I attempt my install

daedalus · Dec 7, 2009

Concat said:
Explain. You just installed a Zerostart and needed no additional parts? And you didn't need to drain the coolant?

Pics and tutorial!!!

PS... I knew a Catlin from Edmonton... You ever live in Parkallen?

I don't know if the Jetta and Passat are the same but.......

On my Passat there is no need to drain the coolant. Just clamp off the hoses before you remove them and you will be fine.

T_D_I_POWER · Dec 8, 2009

SOLDONTDI said:
FUMES....do you still have the instructions to the install of the circulating heater.....would love to have a peak before I attempt my install

Caoncat said:
Pics and tutorial!!!

I hope this helps you guys. Better get busy now and no more excuses. Post pictures of the Zerostart installation please

http://pics.tdiclub.com/gwillie/zerostart%20install.htm

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/ZEROSTART_SERIES_8000_HEATER_INSTALLATION.pdf

09performance · Dec 12, 2009

okay, im getting lost in all of these replies
question 1: is the tank "circulation" type the only one that will work?
question 2: i was also looking into a freezeplug type, someone told me it would work alot better, this true?
question 3: if a tank "circulation" type is the best choice, what is this about having or not having a check valve and which type of the 2 should i get?

thanks,
-Bob-

T_D_I_POWER · Dec 12, 2009

09performance said:
okay, im getting lost in all of these replies
question 1: is the tank "circulation" type the only one that will work?
question 2: i was also looking into a freezeplug type, someone told me it would work alot better, this true?
question 3: if a tank "circulation" type is the best choice, what is this about having or not having a check valve and which type of the 2 should i get?

thanks,
-Bob-

A1. Yes. IMHO. It works wonder

A2. No. I believe, a TDI block doesn't have a freeze plug

A3a. IMHO the circular tank type slender size fits in tight places vs the rectangular tank type. It gives you also the factory look. In theory it should heat up the coolant faster vs the rectangular tank - small vs large tank-. It takes less coolant to top off. The reason why you need to have the CV remove, because if the heater is installed on the supply coolant line -IN- of the OHE, coolant wont circulate since the CV is one-way CV.

A3b. The circular tank since it fits nicely in tight places. AFAT which heater Wattage you need, that would be to your own personnal requirement.

09performance · Dec 12, 2009

how does a TDI block not have a freeze plug?
i was looking into it today and noticed 99 TDI's had a specific size (looking into a freezeplug type heater) but that 2000-2005 does not

thanks TDI POWER for clearing that up

david_594 · Dec 12, 2009

PRKR said:
Interesting to know the OEM part is 550w, knowing that, 750w should certainly suffice (as TDI power had mentioned). I looked at some similar products from other aftermarket companies, but they looked cheap so i think i'm going to try and get the 750w zerostart one from Canadian Tire. So depending what i get for a kit from CT i may have to find some hoses/fittings depending upon how resourceful my mechanic is?

thanks for the help, you guys rock!

This is one of those cases where bigger is almost always going to be better. I would say get the 1000 watt one if its available.

PRKR · Dec 12, 2009

bigger is better is what i was thinking as well, so i got the 1500w, ought to do it!

NB_TDi · Dec 12, 2009

1kW is fine. No need to waste $$ on power.

david_594 · Dec 12, 2009

NB_TDi said:
1kW is fine. No need to waste $$ on power.

How is it wasting money? 1500 watts x 1 hour is the same amount of electricity consumed as 1000 watts x 1.5 hours. Either one should be on a time and only run as long as minimally necessary.

On the plus side, the faster you can heat it, the less time you have heat being lost to the environment.

NB_TDi · Dec 12, 2009

It's a waste because it will reach a maximum and stay there. Getting there faster using more power doesn't mean it costs less. Sure maybe it works out to same, but it's been proven time and time again that 1kW is fine and works in the coldest temps. Why mess with a good thing?

SOLDONTDI · Dec 12, 2009

Thank You, Thank You

T_D_I_POWER said:
I hope this helps you guys. Better get busy now and no more excuses. Post pictures of the Zerostart installation please

http://pics.tdiclub.com/gwillie/zerostart%20install.htm

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/ZEROSTART_SERIES_8000_HEATER_INSTALLATION.pdf

WOW....Thanks a million. This puts all questions into perspective. I was looking for the cylinder type install and bam....I got it. There is a God and his handle is "TDI Power"

david_594 · Dec 12, 2009

NB_TDi said:
It's a waste because it will reach a maximum and stay there. Getting there faster using more power doesn't mean it costs less. Sure maybe it works out to same, but it's been proven time and time again that 1kW is fine and works in the coldest temps. Why mess with a good thing?

Just because something works fine doesn't mean something cant work better. Why does everyone use the 1000 watt? I bet it has more do with the coolant inlet/outlet on it being the same size as the coolant hose most easily spliced into on a vw.

And good is relative. I had a zerostart for something like 3 years. Its fair for its price, but far from great. Definitely room for improvement.

NB_TDi · Dec 12, 2009

It's like saying it's better to have a 1000HP car instead of a 90HP car. I mean you get up to speed faster right? So it must be better....

I've had mine for years and I find it's perfect. The flaw isn't the heater, it's our cars. If we added a coolant pump it would heat the coolant more, adding MOAR POWAR! isn't the answer here.

david_594 · Dec 12, 2009

NB_TDi said:
It's like saying it's better to have a 1000HP car instead of a 90HP car. I mean you get up to speed faster right? So it must be better....

I've had mine for years and I find it's perfect. The flaw isn't the heater, it's our cars. If we added a coolant pump it would heat the coolant more, adding MOAR POWAR! isn't the answer here.

If someone offered you the choice between a 150hp tdi and a 100hp tdi and everything else would be exactly the same, who wouldn't take the 150 hp vehicle?

Adding a coolant pump would definitely make it better. Adding a coolant pump and going with a 1500 watt model would be an even bigger improvement though.

Now if only a suitable 120v coolant pump were as readily available as the 1500 watt zerostart heater...

Frostheater install

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