Vibration coming from wheels !

Hey, guys
I noticed a strange vibration coming from my car since Friday, and its getting worst. On pick up, the car viberates quite aggressivly until about 80km/h. I never had this issue with any other car, do wheels regualrly lose balance over time?
One mistake i might have done is reverse out of my garage without the engine started, only using reverse on the transmission and brakes. When i got to the middle of the driveway, i drove the car, drove fine but on the way back it started having little vibrations, and now its getting worst?
Has anyone had this problem? and what is the likely culprit besides losing balance on the wheels?

p.s. - the car does not vibrate while braking, just when im picking up until about 80km/h.

Might have tossed a wheel weight. Go get the tires balanced and see if it helps.

How did you go in reverse, while in gear without the engine started? Had the clutch pushed in I assume?

Have you been driving in snow or slush lately. The inside of the rims fill with crud and throw out your balance. It builds evenly but when a chunk falls out your vibrations begin. It can get so bad your teeth will rattle.

In addition to the wheel weights and snow/ice causing problems. I would also include a tyre failure (like a belt slipping - not obvious unless you are watching the tread as the car drives off) or struts.

got the balanced, the viberation is still there.

reblanced wheels again today, this mechanic says it might be a C/V joint, how likely is this?
the car shakes alot from the drivers side most at around 50km/h.
It so bad when i get out of the car, i still feel feel the vibration inside me for a few minutes.
Anyone had this problem?

I've seen bad inner CV's before cause rough shaking. Get the front end of the car in the air and check for play in your axles.

As long as he said that it was "inner" CV's it could be the problem. I just replaced my passenger side inner and it resolved my loose teeth. Check the boots around the CV's. Often they are torn prior to them going bad. From my research here, stay away from the dealer (huge money), rebuild or aftermarket shafts (poor quality) and simply replace the CV itself. I got mine at germanautoparts.com
PS My originals went 455,000kms.

Bent wheel?

Know this one sadly from experience...

I may have missed the mileage on the car, but my 2005 Jetta TDI wagon started making a low freq (approx 2hz) shudder while under a load accelerating (most pronounced uphill) at about 92,000 mi. It could be felt down low in my knees and I could see the dash vibrating left and right. (nothing felt in the steering wheel) It would stop if I let up on the accelerator. Level on the freeway was fine. Anyway, over about two weeks It got worse and I knew it would start tearing other stuff up. (also 92,000 on struts and axles) I inspected the three engine mounts the best I could, but not having new ones to compare with is difficult. So I ordered the set of three street density mounts from 034 after asking if the tranny mount would fit my wagon, they and one other distributor said yes it would. Guess what, no it won't! (ordered new OEM mount from VW). At first I just replaced the "engine" side mount and dog bone (and did not know about alignment procedure yet). Vibration was much better (mostly gone) so drove 5 hours south into Mexico (I live in Tucson). On the way back vibration got worse and by the time I crossed the border I could only go 45 mph without th engine shaking so bad I thought it was going to jump out. (possibly not aligned correctly).

By this time the new OEM tranny mount was in and I installed it. Now I could compare old vs new and tell that the old traany mount had collapsed. New one fixed the shudder, and I now also have a new drivers side axle (boot was broken and lots of play). Used aftermarket solid axle, wish me luck, so far it's ok. Also replaced struts (totally worn out at 92,000 mi). Drives better than new now!

What did I learn ...

Looks like the new mounts fixed the original symptom.

Engine mount alignment procedure should be in How To's.

Good struts will save big $$$ in other parts not wearing out.

This site probably saved me $1500 in stealership uneeded work and labor.

Learn to work on you own TDI! What have you got to lose except $$$.

Rear shocks and TB are next. Thanks to this site!

PS. Yes I used new 18mm mount bolts $4 ea from dealer.

hey guys thanks for the help and suggestions. I am not going to take to the dealer but a mechanic I know really well. The dealer is going to rip me off, mostly for their labour costs. Its really getting annoying now. I was wondering as a rough idea how much would the whole axle cost? or the whole C/V cost me?