Eurotrash Motorsports - Audi A4 OPRC / Targa TDi

hey, yes - I got the 1/2 and 3/4 pistons...when I first tried to order they only had 1/2 but a week or two later the stock was restored...

I think I figured out the machinist problem - he was too busy listening to his own ego to hear anything I had to say...called me yesterday and started telling me how he figured everything out and how the bore is not standard 100 but a 140 etc etc...I had to literally tell the guy to stop and start from scratch so we can make sure we speak the same language...I`m like - soooo when I said those pistons aren't from this block and it's going to be a bigger bore than standard you heard "blah blah blah"...anyways I`m still not sure what bore he actually did - I think he was talking about how much he had to bore over (2mm ~ 0.080") which was apparently not standard so it will cost more...I tried to explain that 5 times but who's to listen...

sigh - should be picking the engine up tonight and I`m hoping he`ll give me an engine print sheet with the actual values...

yet again I`m left impressed with customer service in the auto industry...

Nice!! That's ok I don't wanna know where you went

Glad things may be taking a step or two forward, now

GuyGuy said:

Nice!! That's ok I don't wanna know where you went

Click to expand...

man - honestly...it really doesn't matter where you go...the automotive industry has some of the poorest customer service I've ever seen...I used to think it's my fault and perhaps I didn't manage my expectations properly...everybody is your best friend until there's a problem...promised deadlines are almost always vague guidelines...attitude up the ying yang...people get offended when you question stuff and don't just bend over...things aren't delivered as advertised etc...and we're not talking about chinese ebay stores here...

lol...I can write a freakin book...

all right...picked it up

had a chat with the machinist - he said he bored it 95 over (ie 0.095" from the original configuration)...I`m slightly confused - that's about 2.4mm bigger than the 79.5mm stock bore which pushes me closer to 83mm...I`ll try to measure it myself when I get a chance but he didn't get me a print sheet or anything - just kept saying that a standard bore is 30 over, 60 over is twice as expensive so he should have charged me a lot more for the 95 over...the piston fits and the engine is nice and clean so I guess we`ll see...





I was under the impression that they cut the new bore into the cylinders but they use the honing stones to bore it...no wonder he was complaining it took so long....

next step is to get the rods and assemble everything...I was contemplating getting everything balanced together but I think I`ll just get the crank over to get it balanced and polished and call it a day...once the rods are in, I`ll put the engine together...gotta pull a flywheel from the wrecker so I can bolt everything up (silly me threw my stock 1.8t out)

I am hoping to get the engine started by mid summer and worry about finishing the rest of the car by the end of the summer...the performance stuff will be happening over the winter...

oh - here's a question for you guys...what gasket am I supposed to use with this now? the AHU shouldn't fit, ALH and BHW are different...sooooooo? bore the AHU one out?

How loose are the pistons in the bore?

They bore the block, then hone it.

they're not loose...not at all...the guy sounds like he knows what he's doing and he did his own measurements so I`m confident the numbers are right - they just seem off...

I know they bore it and hone it but I was under the impression the boring is done by cutting the cylinder on a mill or something...from what he was showing me he used 'stones' and the honing machine essentially grinding the cylinders down until they're the right size...unless he just uses different stones for the process...anyways I`m not an expert I've just seen different boring machines...ignorance is bliss sometimes

Got some transmission info on the 5th gear today and some part numbers so figured I'd post for info...

Code: DHF, DHL, DVS, EEN, EAB (1.9TDi)
PN: 012311159DM
Ratio: 28/41 = 0.68

Code: DJA,DWB
PN: 012311159DP
Ratio: 32/36 = 0.89

Code: DUK
PN: 012311159DJ
Ratio: 24/35 = 0.69

Code: DHC, DRE, DHW, DHZ, DCM, DHN, DWF, DVT, DVN, DVX, DWA, EHV, EAC, EMV (1.8T)
PN: 012311159CH
Ratio: 31/37 = 0.84

Code: DVZ,DWG,DVP, DWD,DCN,DHE, DHY,DAE (V6)
PN: 012311159DL
Ratio: 30/38 = 0.79

V6 is better than 1.8T, 1.9TDi is best obviously...Doesn't look like any other parts are different...needs to be verified...here are the schematics...



the 5th gear is #16...



trying to figure out what that is supposed to interface to and what else needs to be changed...any info on that?

The data seems to be consistent with all 012 transmissions - 1997 - 2004 Passat and 1998 - 2004 A4s FWD or quattro

Clutch plate diameter: 1.8T - 228mm / V6 - 240mm
Drive axle flange diameter: 1.8T - 108mm / V6 - 130mm (tripple rotor joint)

Looks like a quattro tranny off a V6 might be the best option available in NA - bigger clutch, bigger flanges and better gearing...shouldn't be too hard to source everything at the junker and swap out the 5th gear if need be...V6 A4s are readily available...with this mind for future swaps - a V6 would be a better platform than a 1.8T to do the swap provided the chassis uses the same mounts for the engine...This is somewhat good news because a B6 is pretty easy to find with a 3.0 V6 manual quattro - on top of that it's a much nicer trim than the 1.8T with wood trim etc...an S4 would be even better if my info is correct the 6th gear on the V6 engines is in the 0.56 range - that should be pretty good for the TDi on cruise

The 012/01A transmissions don't like much abuse.

There is a guy over on vwdiesel.net who took a 3rd(I think) and a 5th gear set and made a new 5th gear set out of the two somehow or another which gave an even better 5th gear ratio than my stock DHL transmission.

Consider going with an 01E transmission.

I`m not building a drag car so I won't be doing hard launching ...01As are a dime a dozen - there were 4 at the junker two weeks ago...the one in my B4 keeps up with my 5cyl 20vT and from experience I can tell you the half shafts are a weaker spot...

01E would be nice but not worth the effort and money quite frankly...

I`ll take the 1.8t tranny apart when I get home and take some pics on the inside...hopefully we can put together a good list of parts to order...

Here is likely the "Best" 5 speed for diesel use and quattro.

B5 V6 gas transmission FWD tdi 5th gear 3.70 final drive with matching B5 rear end.

hmmm...why the FWD gasser? aren't they the same as the quattro? ie a quattro V6 B5 tranny with a 5 speed gear should do the trick no?

oh hey Scott - do you actually carry B5 TDi kits? your website seems to only have the Mk4 stuff...what do they run for and what's included?

Rosten I beams on order can't wait!

Great prompt service from Mr. Rosten himself - much appreciated!

This was the last piece before I start engine reassembly...I want an engine in the car and running by the end of the summer...the next big item will be the flywheel/clutch combo that I`m not looking forward to buying...

ready for the rods...

hello





things are starting to take shape....

took the car out for a stroll on the trailer today





also decided to take the BEW out of this



off-road edition



transplant ready for a new home




will have some fun with this over the winter...

Nice! the audi looks good man.

Can't wait to see the powerplant go in!!

slow but steady...

T3 turbo - plenty of space...that manifold works real nice and can be turned around to move the turbo back and forth



smallest Holset to fit this is the Hx30...the Hy35 has a 9cm housing so should also spool pretty quick...the Hx35 has a 12cm housing so getting pretty big for this motor...but damn it looks so nice...



if I wanted to use the Hx27 or the He22xcw series you gotta use something like this:



but it might push the turbo a little too far out...I like where it sits with the T3 mani...

picked up a few different intake manifolds...the stock one is fairly dirty - the other two would work nice with the EGR delete...



tacked up the engine mounts...not 100% done yet but will be in time for the spring season

Hope those mounts are mock-ups. Looking pretty thin to me.

Very interesting project.

Don

time to switch gears folks...lol

AHU is gone...the BEW engine is the new transplant - it will go in the B5 until everything runs and will then make its way into my B7 Avant...the next engine on the block is an ALH going through the same procedure

we're going to do things a little differently here - I like Holset turbos...my AAN 2.3 20VT Avant is powered by an Hx35, but the smaller stuff is not readily available in North America...thanks to Alcaid I sourced an He211w blower for the TDi...





the outlet flange is a little funky but again thanks to Alcaid's CAD work I`m having one made...



ideally I`ll be able to track down the original exhaust adapter that Holset has in their rebuild manuals:



but so far all I could find was a variation of it:



pretty sure the way the turbo is going to fit, this adapter fill point right into the passenger wheel well...

took a while to source out a good T25 manifold...there's a grand total of 1 supplier (cxracing) out there that "claims" to offer T25 flanged cast manifolds...well after wasting my money on one of them, it turns out they use a T3 flange and just drill it for the T25 bolt pattern...this of course can't work because the outlet is too big and can't be sealed with the T25 gasket - in actual fact I`m not sure why they even make that...it's pretty much unusable - I`ll post a few pics later...ATPturbo only offers a T3 flanged version (which I already have - see above) so that can't work with the smaller turbo either...

lucky for me I managed to get my hands on a whole box of T25 flanged manifolds...don't ask me how - these are NOT manufactured anymore and the company has gone under...I`m going to look into having somebody local re-cast them for me but that's a long term goal...for now - the T25 and T3 8V manifolds allow me to run pretty much ANY turbo I want on pretty much any 8V TDi - AHU, ALH, BEW, BHW etc...I like it!







the Oil inlet and outlet will be fairly straight forward - they`re both standard...I`ll have some custom lines made when I bolt the turbo up...which reminds me - I need to clock it to for the compressor outlet to clear the manifold and the oil inlet and outlet to go vertical as opposed to horizontal

while I was across the border I figured I'd get a few more pieces:

Valeo SMFW for the BEW into a B5 or B6 or B7...the B7 is a 240mm setup but so far nobody's made a heavy SMFW for that so unless I go with the ECS RA4 240mm setup I`m stuck with this...which at the end of the day is not so terrible after all can't beat the price on this kit and it looks...well heavy



also picked up an RS4 rear sway bar for the B7 can't wait to install that...

the weather around here has been messing with my progress but I`m hoping to have everything buttoned up within a week...this looks way too empty



on the tuning side - I`ve picked up the Malone Tuning FlashZilla kit. The plan for this engine is stock internatls and injectors, VNT to WG setup, EGR delete and hopefully Mark can program my ECUs IMMO to work with the car...I don't want a delete since I have the stock keys and clusters for both the B5 and the B7...this should help with the e-testing down the road, because as far as I know, the IMMO delete results in the ECU not pushing out the correct car VIN #...the ministry might have a problem with that...I have no issue using the gasser clusters so I won't be sourcing new ones out from Europe...should make things easy

thoughts?

pushing up on this...I want to have it ready for tuning when the weather permits me to drive it tight deadline with 4 other cars in front of the garage that need time...

picked up some spares for good measure (second one will go for sale in a bit)



also got a few extra pieces:



unfortunately it seems the turbo is meant to be installed using a bottom mount manifold (ie turbo is hanging under the mani) so the exhaust adapter can point in the right direction...currently it's pointing at my passenger tire so unless I do up a straight outlet on top of the tire I can't use it still hoping to find the part number for the straight piece pictured above...

bolted up (not clocked yet)



clocked the turbo up after that - the alignment pin between the CHRA and the exhaust housing needs to be removed unless you drill a new alignment hole in the CHRA (which I didn't want to do at the time). The compressor housing is a bit of an issue - the WG is bolted to it so when clocked properly for this installation, the WG doesn't align with the lever...a small bracket should solve that fairly easy...going to try and get something machined for a cleaner look...

ordered the feed/drain lines ...the turbo feed is a 10x1.25 which seems a little harder to get but everything else is straight forward...

with that done and out of the way, the FW, clutch and oil pan are the last pieces to go on before I bolt it in...also picking up a starter today

the next big thing will be wiring...the car is completely stripped so I`ll have to do the car harness first and then get the BEW harness sorted out...the first tune will be with stock engine and the holset blower...once the engine is running fine in the B5 I`ll take it out, strip everything, rebuild with the 2.0 BHW pistons, re-tune and throw it in the B7...not sure I`m going but bigger injectors just yet....damn things are expensive

slow but steady...sorry for the crappy pictures...

M18x1.5 to -8AN JIC for the block


1/2" NPT to -8AN JIC with a GT oil drain flange for the turbo:




I`m going to switch up to -10AN JIC for the drain - it seems I can get the specific flange with a -10AN flare machined on it already, which saves me an extra fitting...anybody know where I can source these flanges with a straight hard line so I can have my hose guy manufacture something more stock looking?

The feed on the turbo is an M10x1.25 which is a little "odd"...we were going to do straight fittings but it seems easier to source out banjo bolts so the feed line will be M12 banjo to M10 banjo straight line from the oil filter housing...I`m contemplating putting an oil pressure gauge somewhere along the line to keep an eye on things for now...

three more things to do before the turbo kit is ready - clock the compressor housing, sort out the WG mount and get exhaust flanges cut...

I can live without the last for now and proceed with the installation...

8AN should be fine. Don't forget the crush washer between the M18 fitting and the block.

I'm watching this build as I have an ALH B5 swap in the mix. Great stuff!

I need to visit the garage... trying to follow along here is hurting my brain!

went with a 10AN for the drain and a 6AN for the feed...didn't really cost more so it just made sense...



also got some shiny bits...don't think I've ever seen a brand new starter to be honest...



swapped over the oil pump feed and oil pan...the short tube is off a 1.8T



found a crank seal leak...I was kinda expecting this and it's the main reason why I decided to strip the engine and get everything done now rather than bother installing then removing and then stripping...I`m waiting on a few more pieces so by the time they show up I`ll have the engine back together...

time to pull it apart...











I`m always surprised at how clean these look on the inside compared to the crusty gassers I've taken apart before...

anyways - the block is going in for boring...going in with a set of BHW pistons with stock rods so displacement will go up slightly and things should be nice and fresh...

not exactly sure what to do with the head at this point - I feel like I should just run it the way it was - it seems like a pain in the butt to start taking everything apart...is there regular maintenance that I`m supposed to do? new injector rocker arms or something? I really want to clean it up so I`ll see if the shop can do that without taking everything apart...if not maybe we`ll strip it down for new valve seals while we're at it...

nitec said:

As an example - when I was working on the B4 and wanted to run a quattro - EVERYBODY said it's impossible, it's too much work, way too expensive etc etc. If I had listened to the internet, I would have left it at that and moved on. Instead I investigated a little and found out that the B4 chassis is completely identical between the FWD and quattro version and the rear driveline is a direct swap with the exception of one bracket. All in all the swap cost me 50$ for welding a bracket.

Click to expand...

Not everyone! I said go for and was thinking that they should be the same other than gas tank. So not everyone haha

That said, sometimes it's best to take the beaten down path but keep an eye open for better solutions.