Another project thread 2000 TDI

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
I have the 'bad' airbag module so I am hesitant to scan it with VAG-COM. My VAGCOM is prob the oldest version that exists, so there is the risk of cooking the airbag controller if I try to retrieve the code. Any advice from people wiser than me?? I gathered from a quick look-see that the airbag module is coded to the car, so even if I have a standby replacement module there are things I have to do to make it work?

I also swapped out the black Hella Magic Colors tail lights for some GTI tails today.

Then I managed to remove both pairs of stuck wipers, so now I have access to the ECU for further testing on the whole fuel shutoff - intermittent, and the other code that looks like complete nonsense. Implausible signal?? There is no feedback from the supply voltage relay according to the diagram. Just a conditional ground from the ECU to the trigger ground side. Trigger positive side is fed from pin 30 which I verified gets voltage.


Oh wait, spoke too soon... the implausible signal might have to do with something downstream from the glow plug relay that feeds fuse F32 and then goes back to the ECU at pins T121/1 and T121/2. I dunno, it'll all be easy once I get that ECU harness unwrapped and see what's what.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Got lots done over the last couple of days. Got into some nice weather, so I've been going full ape on doing work.

So GTI tails in place of black Hella Magic Colors. Anyone interested in buying??

Remember the seized on wipers and the broken off nut??

All fixed!! Refurbed the 'new' linkage, swapped on the old motor (new motor had the new style plug that's round on one end). and WITH caps... didn't have the caps on this car when I got it.
Washed out the leaves and junk from the train tray, cleaned the cabin filter out, checked out the ECU wiring and tested the lead to the fuel shutoff valve. Solid as a rock, there is NO issue in the wiring from the ECU to the shutoff valve. Strange thing is... I use the VAGCOM output tests to fire the shutoff valve, no voltage at either end. Yet the car starts no problem (without the jumper). And with the car running, I have 12V there. But not with the key 'ON'. Strange. But it works.

fitting my 'new' wheels

the battery hold down was of course broken. Pulled the battery tray out (much easier than being aggravated and breaking bits because of the odd angle). Drilled the bastid out, retapped, new bolt and hold down (by 'new' I mean taken from a junkyard car)
 
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bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada

Then it was time to deal with our old friend the door latch switch.

Of course you're rounded....

Tried a #5 bolt-out from my craftsman kit, then tried the old chisel and hammer trick... guy was in there good. So I drilled it out, as soon as I relieved the tension on the head, I was able to back it out quite easily with the bolt-out. I had assumed it was crossthreaded, but in fact the tension on the head was so high that it couldn't be overcome with a #3 phillips I guess, and the material is too soft for a bolt-out to get traction.

And out...

Hmmm.... doesn't look good. Bottom rear regulator track pulled right off the carrier

Nothing a little rivet action won't fix. I drilled out the old rivet, it was in the way and the regulator rail wouldn't sit flush. With the old out of the way, I made some new holes and popped a few rivets in there.

Door stripped... looks good in there, no rust
I did get screwed with the door fix. The switch is ruined - the actuator inside the switch is broken right off from the switch. Being sunday night it was unlikely I'd stumble upon a replacement. I tried to epoxy it back... took the base of the actuator out, remember this is like trying to glue together grains of sand. But no luck, the surface area just isn't there. I was able to install it, but pretty much the first try it broke again. So hopefully tomorrow I can get a switch (wonder if stores are open with the holiday and all...). For now I just threw the door back together so I could close it up for the evening.

Did these right quick in the evenings, prob gonna go in my dad's car. Really really tight fit, highly custom install to make it very OEM-like. I moved the entire reflector back in the housing and then modified the shroud to go much deeper than intended, overall I think I had to find a total of 1/2 inch to be able to bottom out the lens in the housing without sealer. That way I guarantee I have the clearance inside to still have adjustability, cuz sealant will give me a few mm back. Yes, it's a game of millimeters when I'm retrofitting. I'm tempted to leave them just like that. No ridiculousness and clownery inside like LED light strips, yellowed out highbeam reflector bowl, blacked out housing, etc... just clean and OEM looking.
 
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bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Got a new switch for the door latch module, swapped that in. Now it all works how it should.

So I thought it was time for a maiden voyage, see how the car drives. It's 1130 at night, so I start the car, walk around and do a light check... no bumper marker lights, no reverse lights. Unsure about all brake lights. I saw one working, so at least I know I have SOME brake lights. Pull out of the driveway, wicked whine from the power steering pump. Awesome. I pull up a car length, something sounds bad. Check torque on my lug nuts... seems tight. Drive 200 meters, forget it. Something sounds just scary. Like the wheel is loose basically. Could be ball joints being REALLY bad. Not sure. Forget it, back up on the stands tomorrow for an inspection. Wasn't looking to dump a bunch of money into this car. How the lady that owned this car wasn't scared for her life driving this thing is beyond me. I couldn't make it down my street, she drove it 5,000kms from October to Christmas when then crank pulley bolts broke.

So far extras on top:

fix reverse lights
fix side markers
dr side axle
rear calipers
power steering pump
rear shocks

likely:
rotors and pads (front, not sure about rear yet)
ball joints
tie rods
sway bar bushings

ugh. wish I started working again :-/
 
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FlexYJeeper

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Location
Oak Harbor Washington
TDI
MKIV Golf
new wheels are looking good! its amazing what some people will drive on. i bought an eclipse to flip that had a bad wheel bearing. the previous owner said there was a noise coming from the front pass side for the last 5k miles. it sounded like a helicopter going down the road at 45 mph. i had a cherokee that had a key ring holding the drag link to the pit man arm because the bolt had stripped out. so he literally put a key ring through the hole for the cotter pin and drove it like that for a month. really cheap and easy fixes but they get neglected. then something happens to make the car no longer drive able and the owner takes it to a shop and the shop wont fix just that one issue because the car is a liability.
 

Growler

Got Soot Vendor
Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Location
Millersport, Ohio
TDI
Schmutz, 2015 Golf Sportwagen DSG & Schnurren, 2001 Golf GL 2 door 5M
you are doing work on this car man.

Im suprised you arent getting more replies.

Keep it up!
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Thanks!! I really wish I had a clear goal in mind for this car, it would be easier to do what needs to be done.

Might pull the front suspension off tomorrow and see if the inserts are loose in the coilover. That might be my noise right there; today's inspection looked not too bad. Not unsafe anyways, so I'm driving the car tonight.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
So in one of the previous pics you see the mirrors are blue and have the dollar store bubble mirrors stuck on. The blue is delaminating quite badly. Those found their way to the garbage can, and some nice 'clear' mirrors from the junkyard (heated still) found their way on. I also replaced the dr side mirror housing since mine had a crack in the lower part that runs under the mirror.

The car pulls really really hard. It runs fantastic. The gearbox is tight, clutch is right on (G60/VR6 combo in this car as well).

The suspension is questionable. The coilovers are Racelands and the rear shocks look blown to me. The front adjusters (collars) are seized. I wanted to lower the car a bit today, only got one locking collar free'd up.

On the upside, balljoints and tie rods look good, car has TT front LCA bushings.

Front rotors are well used. Pads have about 50% on them, but I'm likely to change that out too. Axle boots will need to be redone for sure. Both sides, both inner and outer. I did my 1970 beetle, these will likely be as easy to take apart I suspect. Normally I'd just get remanned units, but I've really come to appreciate restoring/rebuilding OEM parts where possible. Time consuming, but worthwhile.

Also the rear hatch switch is intermittent I found. Sometimes I have to close the hatch a couple of times before it automatically locks itself. And naturally the lock cylinder has become one with the handle housing. Reminds me, I have to see how dad's lock is holding up since I last rebuilt it. Worst, most poorly thought out part of the car in the history of cars.

Got all the lights situation sorted out, but just noticed now the dr side fender signal (not bumper marker) is burned out too. Sadly the left and right signals don't match, one is smoked (dark lens) and the other is black housing (clear lens). I have some clear ones off a 2003 (OEM) that I'm likely to put on. I don't care for the whole 'murdered out' look where every light is blacked out so I'm slowly backing the car out of that.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
So much for the coilover insert being loose. They are completely blown, the rod falls right into the strut lol. I think the knocking noise is the piston banging into the top of the body since the coilvers were raised up all the way for winter.
 

Norman

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Joined
Jun 11, 1999
Location
In a flood zone
TDI
'00 Golf GLS, '03 Wagon GL
...
Also the rear hatch switch is intermittent I found. Sometimes I have to close the hatch a couple of times before it automatically locks itself. ...
Well, if the hatch light isn't coming on, intermittently, then it's microswitch time.

Good job so far, it almost seems like this thread is in the wrong forum. ;)
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Yeah I know, need to unseize the lock cylinder too. But I remember doing the handle on dads car and I wanted to set myself on fire. And the switch may be fine, it could be broken wiring and missing insulation from inside those rubber boots. So I plan to now worry about it for now.

Pulled a rear caliper off to try to free it. E brake actuator is seized and the lower guide bolt is seized as well.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
So I've been working on the rear calipers. No pics since my gloves were constantly covered in brake fluid.

So dr side the shaft for the ebrake was seized and the lower guide bolt. Not too too bad. Out of a dozen snap ring pliers, none of them could reach the circlip inside the caliper. I used a steering wheel puller to take the load off the spring cup, then I cut down 2 pairs of allen keys and pointed them on the grinder to be able to fit into the circlip holes (ears). I set those keys inside my pliers that have the exchangeable ends. Just too much flex, I couldn't get the bugger out.

But a couple of whacks on the end of the shaft from the pad side using a brass drift and hammer, pop went the weasel - shaft was free. So I wire brushed the crap out of it, oiled it and greased it, snapped it back and forth many times... super free. Then I had to file the area where the brake line connects, I had to torch and free the bleeder, clean the stainless clips and slider bolts, in it all went back together. The corrosion on these calipers is horrendous. It eats everything. Everywhere a seal is supposed to seal, there is nothing but white powder for it to seal against. This caliper didn't do anything previously. The pads are untouched. Brand new.

Other side, same brand pads completely worn away (so they were put on at the same time). This one had a stuck ebrake shaft too, but the slider bolts were free. The piston, however, was stuck. I bent my disk brake tool trying to back out the piston. So I grabbed it with a pipe wrench like a wanker would do. Nothing to lose, but I did stay above the dust boot just in case. I did get it out, free the ebrake shaft the same way as the other side. I've polished and honed the piston, filed off all the burrs from the pipe wrench. Washed it, it's drying now and awaits a seal kit... but really what's the point, the aluminum is mostly gone around where it matters. I'll throw it together but will be looking for decent calipers at the junk yards.

Rotor looks not bad - no wear on it, but I have to check runout with a dial gauge indicator to see if it warped from the seized caliper piston. I thought I had an extra pair of rear pads, but I just looked at the box I could picture them being in, and they're not there. Possible I used them at some point. So I'll need to see if any of my buddies have an 'unpaired' pair of pads or a decent set of used pads. But at least I'll have an operational ebrake so I don't have to block the wheels anymore.

I've also been working on the whole power steering pump issue. I pulled one from a car, I was told it didn't make noise. No clue. But it did leak. And when I pulled it, red fluid came out - should be green stuff. Oh well. So I pulled the end of the housing and it looks good in there. Not that I necessarily know what to look for, but there is no shaft play and no bearing noise I can tell, and no scoring inside. So I started looking around to find some seals to stop the leakage. No... VW wants $250 for a new pump instead of offering a seal. Ummmm.... no. Having built tensioners for Gates here in Windsor, we often had similar parts on the bill of materials for a number of different tensioners. So I'm hoping that another pump uses the same end cover as the VW pump. We'll find out when the part gets here. It's worth a shot. I doubt the WHOLE kit will fit, but I'm hoping at least the end cover gasket does, maybe even the shaft seal.
 
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bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Slacking on updating this thread.

The rear brakes came together I guess. The pass side rear caliper bleeder was stuck. Stuck good. I tried every trick to loosen it, then ended up breaking it off. So I went to town with a drill of course. By the time I sized up to about the threads, nothing but white powder was coming out. Little wonder it was never going to come out with a wrench and heat. I miraculously saved it though, I managed to not go too deep and save the threads all at the same time :) So I retapped it to M10x1 and stuck another bleeder in there.

I had a heck of a time getting the lines to seal up though. All the corrosion and cleaning... Still not 100% sure I have a perfect seal under pressure, will find out once I bleed the brakes.

The fronts got new pads and rotors.

Dr side front was a mess. Lower hole already had a helicoil in it, top hole looked like this




Yes, ALL the thread came out with the slider. lol Thank you VW for casting the caliper carrier into the steering knuckle. Yes, I could easily get another steering knuckle, but right now I threw together some thread repair and got it all back together. I say 'threw together' since I didn't have an M9x1.25 helicoil and the kit is as much as another knuckle would cost me. I did have some keenserts though. But the right size had a M14x1.5 outside thread, and in my judgement there just isn't enough meat on the ear for me to go THAT big. So I had to use a smaller insert, but that required an M12x1.25 tap which I didn't have handy. So I made a 7/16-20 outside thread with an M9x1.25 inside thread, loctited it in place and locked it down. Works for now :) I'll deal with getting another knuckle down the line since I need to do CV boots anyways.

I also replaced the flex line on the dr side. I'll likely do the pass side too since I'm already having to bleed the brakes.

I also checked my airbag light. I got brave and clicked "scan anyways" on VCDS, the codes were nonsense - intermittent for all three: pass seat ignitor, dr seat ignitor, and low supply voltage. the low voltage was the dead battery when the car first came to me. The other two, sounds like someone had the seats disconnected and turned the key. I erased the codes and they didn't return.

I still have to deal with that blown pass side front coilover. Looking into some options... but really need to sell off some parts to continue financing this debacle. And I need to stop spending time spinning my wheels... these would all have been quick fixes if I was just throwing money at the car, but I'm trying to do this with a strict budget in mind since I don't know if I'm keeping or selling yet.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Today I decided to refurb the starter a bit. It was cranking a little slow for my liking. I took out the battery and the tray since I was gonna do this from the top only, didn't feel like jacking up the car. The stuff I needed to do underneath I could do by feel alone, there was nothing there I needed to see. Since the battery was out, I went ahead and put back the snow screen tube. That was missing from my car.




all apart and cleaned up, planetary gear set cleaned in leprechaun tears and then regreased, same treatment for everything that required lubricity. The rotor brush surface area was cleaned up with some 400 grit paper lightly. Brushes are well worn but prob another 5 years worth of starts on them... not worried about it.



So another major annoyance. How to keep the brushes back?? These are things that drive me nuts about these cars. I remember working on another starter, can't remember what car it was for... might not have even been my car since I vaguely recall it was something domestic, but I only have three domestics currently and I don't think I've ever had the starter out of any of them. Anyways, that starter had holes so you could push the brushes all the way back and pin them back through the holes with a finishing nail or a paperclip. Then when the brush head is on the rotor, you pull the pins out. Easy!! So on these, I use some masking tape to hold them back





like so. Then you use magic to remove the masking tape without tearing it.

Took a couple of minutes to align all the guts inside since I wasn't entirely paying attention when I took it all apart. It was ridiculously windy today so I was too busy chasing blowing tools, cardboard, paper towels, and cans of brake cleaner. Popped it back in, and MUCH improved starting. I cleaned up all the connections too for the battery cable to the starter and solenoid to starter motor. Sure that helped out a little too.

The original plan was to either rebuild the power steering pump with the new seals or go pick up some coilovers; but then the starter popped into my head. It was too windy anyways for a power steering rebuild (way too much debris blowing around to be working on a hydraulic pump). I did get some new front coilovers, but that was late evening. So tomorrow if the weather is ok I'll do the front suspension and the pass side brake flex hose.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Well I couldn't sleep and nothing but reruns and infomercials on the telly. So I went ahead with resealing the pump.
So quick guide on how to take apart your pump, possibly ruin it (I have yet to install and try it), and put it back together.
Once you take the back cover off (4 13mm bolts), you see the end of this shaft. The stator may or may not come out with the end cover, depending on how sticky your fluid is. Mine came off with the cover. If you look down to where the veins are, you see a circlip. Remove it. Slide the pump shaft out of the housing.
This is the shaft and the veins

And this is the pump side of things

Had no idea what was going on inside, here... so let's look

... not much. Couple orings to replace
Dirty, filthy leaking shaft seal. In this case, both ends were leaking, the shaft side and the back cover.

Need a 27mm to remove the... ummm let's call it a pressure regulator?

Get the old seal out without damaging the housing. You can use a seal puller or in my case I used a small pry bar (think 'bent flathead' almost) to drive out the seal from the back side.

And we're ready for the parts washer... I wasn't about to glass bead the housing or anything that extreme. This is not a restoration like some of my other cars.
The spring and the plunger is what's under the 27mm 'pressure regulator' I mentioned earlier. No orings or anything else in there.

But this guy gets new orings:

Going back together
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
And done!



So this is what was replaced... plus the squarish-shaped oring on the end cover, I forgot to include it in the pic. In the previous pic you can imagine where it would go to seal the end cover. So six out of 7 seals in total were replaced. The only one I didn't replace was the return line. It wasn't bad and I didn't have a replacement of the correct size anyways. Remember, VW or anyone else for that matter doesn't offer a seal kit for these pumps, so I wasn't overly disappointed that the return line seal wasn't the right one.



Important note, make sure you clean the shaft really well, it will be all rusty where the pulley flange is. That rust MUST be cleaned off, else you will ruin your brand new seal when you go to put the circlip back on the shaft. You will push the shaft up so you can seat the circlip, and the rust will ruin your new seal. So clean it!! I washed everything in the parts washer then used 400 grit paper to polish that part of the shaft. If you have a super high mileage pump, it is possible that the shaft will be worn away (from a very aged and hard seal) in which case a new seal won't fix your issue. Time for a new pump if that's your situation.
 
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bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Oh, so if anyone in the future is using this as reference, please note the above pic I had the stator wrong in all kinds of ways. For one, the pins you see on the cover can in no way line up with where they should go. That's because the stator is upside down and backwards LOL. See the #7 stamped into it, that should be facing toward the front of the pump, not facing the camera. And the holes for the alignment pins that are at 1 and 7 oclock in the picture? ... yeah they should be at 11 and 5 more or less... aligned with the bolt holes.
 

bbarbulo

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Joined
Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada




Old dead coilover, not quite sure how the grommet around the brake line got to look like that...



Coilover replaced with a good one, albeit slightly seized collar though

Also the flex line replaced AND the brake line grommet is replaced. Much better.



oh what the ... abs sensor lines. I dunno, I'll say that's on me since I was replacing the strut, but really what the heck.



depinned the connector, prepped with some filing and some solder



and ready to go back in the connector.

Hence my question in the 101 forum, since the lines pulled out from the pins clean. The lines naturally seem to wanna fall black on top, green on the bottom. So that's how I put them back

But to answer my own question, polarity doesn't matter on an ABS sensor. I was thinking about it, the sensor MUST generate voltage. So being reversed in polarity would just cause a 180 degree phase shift. The amplitude of the wave and the frequency would stay the same. And I suspect the frequency is what the ABS computer looks at.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
couldn't get a seal on one of the rear calipers on the bleeder that was stuck, so I replaced both rears with 41mm units. have yet to bleed the brakes, I was so cold yesterday doing it outside there was no way I was getting involved in bleeding anything.

might try the front dr side coilover today, it's still really cold but I think I can do it quick.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Dr side coilover done, brake hardline grommet also done, upper strut bearing cleaned and regreased





before cleaning


going to need a new one of these...



and a new inner tie rod; thanks tow truck driving asshats!! they must have used the inner tie rod to tie down the car or to pull the car up on the flatbed.

I thought the alignment felt way off when I first drove the car...
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
reporting back about the power steering pump rebuild. weather finally let up again today so i put in the pump i rebuilt a couple weeks back. BAM! stone cold quiet! beautiful thing. So that's resolved.

then I did an oil change, found the car had a fram filter in it :rolleyes: replaced that with a Mann and some Penzoil EuroSyn 0W40

then I wiped up everything what I thought was an oil leak from the oil power steering pump, turns out it's diesel. looks like it's coming off the bottom of the IP. But it's a LOT of diesel and I don't lose prime. so I'm a little stumped. gonna take my spare 11mm pump and see what's down on the underside that could potentially leak, then inspect carefully with a mirror on the car and see what's up.

Car is up all 4s so I can hopefully bleed the brakes next time we have decent weather. Supposed to be below freezing again tomorrow. :(
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Bled the brakes and gave a couple of the cars a wash today despite the rotten weather

couple of days ago:




today:







the 4th rim has a pretty bald tire on it... gotta get a new set of tires for these rims.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
put in work today: it was time to get that driver side spindle sorted out. remember, both caliper mounting holes were messed up and helicoiled. That doesn't please me. So I sourced a new spindle casting. Needed a new inner tie rod end because of asshat tow truck drivers. Lastly, inner axle boot is torn.



bent inner tie rod



straight inner tie rod installed



SAVAGE!! broke 2 13 mm wrenches holding the inner tie rod from spinning while trying to remove the outer tie rod end. wasn't going to risk any snap-on wrenches, so ended up using a big adjustable to hold the inner tie rod - also took propane heat.



Axle ready to come out



Tomorrow, axle rebuild and reassembly are on the menu...
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
on another (sad) note, I've listed the car up for sale. :(

I'm the right owner for it to get the car back into shape; but I'm not the right owner for it long term. I have too many cars and most of them I don't even drive. So if I was to keep it, it would likely never get driven again - and really, I want to see this thing DRIVING and showing off :p lol

I was on the fence about keeping it and making it my new daily driver, but it's too nice of a car for me... or... that's not even it... I can't describe it... I don't REALLY wanna give up my current daily cuz I'm trying to rack up miles on that car so I can see it hit 700K or more. And someone else can really enjoy this one, so I've decided to put it up for sale. Anyways, just a side-story I wanted to get off my chest cuz I'm torn about it. I get attached to my cars when I put in work, but 10 cars is just too many; some may argue 9 too many and I'd be hard pressed to logically argue that point.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
thanks FlexY! the paint does shine nice - I treated it to a good ol' polish and wax first chance I had. Sure, there are a couple of nicks here and there, but not bad for an older car.

ya, I'm sad too but it's the right thing to do. needs to drive and drive a LOT now that it's back in proper working condition. this thing was quite neglected over the 4 or so years that the PO had it. I just today had a chance to actually feel comfortable driving it. I tried previously and turned myself around because I felt it wasn't wise to drive it.

I reassembled the axle with new boot, put in the replacement spindle, and all is well. Need to fine tune the alignment since inner and outer tie rod was replaced.

I still want to do rear shocks and new tires, but since it's already listed - maybe I'll just knock a bit off the price if they want it like ... today LOL Quite a few people asking about it already, hopefully someone gets a chance to come see this gem soon.
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
Today I did some minor interior work, PO seemed to thing this was a formal dining room or something. The center console area and everything under the cupholders was a toxic mess. I pulled everything out, washed, vacuumed. The soft touch is a disaster. I stripped all of it on dad's car and painted everything piano gloss black, but I haven't the time to do it on this car. At least not at the moment...
 

bbarbulo

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Jan 11, 2003
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Windsor, ON, Canada
Well, did do more work - but that's all moot now. Loaded on a trailer and went with the new owner today. :( Bittersweet moment

New owner is cool though, I think he will enjoy the car and take good care of it.
 
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