MKIV electrical issue?

Hello,
I'm new to the world of VW ownership...late to the game as usual. I'm really amazed at the knowledge base here, all you guys and gals have really put in a lot of good info to this site. I appreciate it greatly.

Sorry for the long winded story to follow...
So, I have...eh, I'll call it an electrical issue. Some background...I seemed to have an intermittent issue that when I turn off the car I would get clicking noises coming from various door locks and back hatch like they were trying to lock/unlock, short buzzes coming from the Comfort Control Module "CCM", and dash lights flickering. This would continue until I turned the car back on, only problem is it normally would not turn on immediately...as in no dash lights when key turned to the On position and absolutely nothing when attempting to start. The temporary fix seemed to be move the key off/on a few times, maybe combined with holding down brake pedal and going through the gears (auto transmission). That could happen every time I turned off the car for a few days straight, then not do it at all for a couple weeks. During this time my transmission suddenly developed a delay in shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, like it would go into neutral for maybe 1 sec then into 3rd gear. This is not gear slipping. It came on sudden, happened 100% of the time on 2nd to 3rd shifts and went away 100% when I did the manual reset...key in On position, gas pedal down, etc. But that issue came back 2 weeks later and the reset no longer worked. At this point I made the mistake of taking the car to the dealership to have them tell me the Vag Com readings but they just told me my transmission was bad and they'd put a used one in for $6,300. So after some research I decided to change out the shift solenoids...I didn't yet have a Vag Com, but I do like to get to know my car and wanted to see the ATF myself, especially after the dealership told me the trans was bad. Well, the fluid looked surprisingly good, dark but no shavings or clutch material. I changed fluid and filter twice over a couple weeks just cause I like to get dirty By this time I now have a Vag Com. I did a reset / relearn on the trans and it's shifting great...no 2nd to 3rd delay. A few days of no issues goes by and one day I turn off the car and I get all the clicking door locks, no key On position recognized, and buzzing from the CCM. I have a friend that let me borrow his CCM...I'm clearing DTC's after everything I do here. But after a few days driving the clicking, buzzing came back...AND NOW so did the delayed shift from 2nd to 3rd gear. I had a few weeks of driving with great shifting.

So, hopefully all this rambling makes sense to someone. Also, I hope someone can use my readings from the Vag Com. Oh, in all the DTC checking the "Door Module" faults has shown up intermittently and the ABS brakes is brand new.

Thursday,10,May,2018,18:24:31:58899
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64
VCDS Version: 18.2.0.3 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4411.4
Data version: 20180212 DS287.0
www.Ross-Tech.com
VIN: 9BWGP61JX24013425 License Plate:
Chassis Type: 1J (1J - VW Golf/Bora IV (1998 > 2006))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76
VIN: 9BWGP61JX24013425 Mileage: 272060km-169050miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
Part No: 038 906 012 FD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G400AG 4102
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 57EB76BBE613058F632-4B1E
9BWGP61JX24013425 VWZ7Z0A3889498
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 KT
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4891
Coding: 00011
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 0C4159D76F5536571E0-0962
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 C
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 2A0DFF4F80E148670CC-5184
1 Fault Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
Component: 08 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004
Coding: 12344
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3A2DCF0F7541F8E77CC-513C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 906 M
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V02
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 323DE72FAD3100A7B4C-513C
9BWGP61JX24013425 VWZ7Z0A3889498
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 70B92D2763BD72B7828-513C
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 08 Komfortgerát HLO 0001
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00028
VCID: 372BD63B4653E58F832-4B1E
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
Component: 1Q Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0002
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
Component: 1Q Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811A
Component: 1Q Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0002
Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812A
Component: 1Q Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0002
7 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:34, VBatt start/end: 12.2V/12.1V)-----------

***Also...I saw this a few scans back, In Central Conv under Measuring Blocks, Group 16 I saw- 1st Alarm Source show "64" -ignition (terminal 15), 2nd, 3rd and 4th Alarm Source showed "1". My most recent scan shows "64" in the 1st and 2nd Alarm Source.
Does this indicate a problem with the ignition?

Welcome!
Start by checking the battery condition, the battery cable clamp condition and the
ground connections to the chassis under the battery box. This is a rite of passage
for all the MkIV's that come into new hands. Weak voltage and bad connections
will give spurious error codes. Use a voltmeter to check the alternator output too.

Sure, it's possible to have an ignition switch problem also but rule out the connections first.

Also check the fuse block on top of the battery. They like to get hot and melt. Connection issues possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yup first thing to look at is the battery. If you don’t have one get a multimeter, they are absolutely essential in diagnosing problems on any car. You can save yourself a lot of money but not just throwing parts at your problem.

The number of codes listed looks like a low battery which could also be caused by an alternator that is not charging properly.

With the car off and sitting in your driveway test the battery at the center of the posts. It should be 12.6-12.8v. If it’s 12.5 to 12.2 its low and needs to be charged. Below 12.2 and you’re in electrical problem territory. I suspect this is where you’re at.

Start the car, measure the battery terminals again, it should now read 13.5-14.5, that’s the output of the alternator charging your battery. If it’s less put the red multimeter lead on the stud at the alternator. You should get that 13.5-14.5 reading. If you don’t youve found your problem, a bad alternator, or alternator pulley. Replace it with a genuine Bosch not a parts store rebuild.

One other issue that plaques these alternators is the overrunning pulley. Loosen the serpentine belt and put a small screwdriver into the fins of the alternator. Turn the pulley by hand it should turn fine in one direction and not the other. If it turns in both directions or neither direction that is the cause of your alternator not to charge properly.

Of course most new alternators come with a new pulley just make sure it has an overrunning pulley on it not a solid one.

You can also check the fuses on top on the battery with the multimeter. Just put the red lead on each side of those big fuses whatever your battery voltage is it should be the same on both sides. Check them all.

After getting your charging system up to snuff, clear the codes and see what comes back.

Thanks for the quick responses all.
I have recently checked and cleaned the ground connections to the chassis under the battery box.
I just checked the 3 fuses on top of the battery and was surprised of how clean and tight fitting they were after reading about loose and seeing pictures of melted fuses.
Next up is the battery and alternator. Thanks Tdijarhead for all the specifics...electrical is not my strong point, so much appreciated.

It's good you checked the ground under the battery tray. If it's bad everything that grounds to the body is bad.

In the fuse box above the battery 'clean and tight' looks good but are you saying you took the nuts off and checked both sides of the fuses and screw post?

After you check the alternator clutch and you measure the running voltage also measure for AC voltage. Should not be much but if it's high it could be a bad diode inside the alternator.

In Address 46: Central Conv. (CCM) with all the codes intermittent and a Implausible Signal I would check the ground connection inside the drivers left kick panel (iIrc )

The wires in the door jam boot flex every time you open & close the door. Known to break after time. I've been lucky with this so far.

Happy Friday to All,
Well...I've been taking volt meter readings regularly hoping to find a smoking gun or at least intermittent readings, but all readings "battery w/ car off, car on, and alternator w/ car on are within specs tdijarhead listed. Of course since my last post I have not had the intermittent problem I listed in original post of..turn off car then clicks and buzzes and not stopping til I start the car, but the car not starting immediately after turning off.
I did do the relearn / kick down with Vag Com and that got rid of the pause in shifting from 2nd to 3rd. But why that came back in the first place..who knows.
Another gremlin decided to get me a couple days ago...coolant temp sensor popped out when I pulled into my driveway. The retaining clip appears to never have been completely seated correctly. I took out the air filter box and battery to get a better look at that sensor.
So, I'll check/clean the battery ground again and do the same to the ABS connections and fuses on top of the battery, which by the way is not an intermittent problem...I can not clear that DTC via Vag Com. I'm at work now away from the Vag Com, but I think it was under ABS, then measuring blocks where I could check good/equal readings coming from each wheels speed sensor...if anyone was curious.

On the 01m, I reccomend coding the transmission so the dsp is off and it’s locked in sport or economy mode. In my experience, dsp did nothing but make the tranny feel like it’s gonna fall out. Mine kept downshifting to 3rd at highway speed, locked in sport mode, now shifts like butter (knock on wood). http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/4-Speed_Automatic_Transmission_(01M) Is the instructions, I like sport mode, I feel it shifts low in eco mode.