Broken passenger side Axle

sonspot · Sep 3, 2017

Hey, I have a situation, yesterday my passenger side drive axle broke of the transmission. couple question for those who know what they're talking about..

It looks like 3 bolts broke and 3 come out somehow, I'll try to post pics.. Do you think the transmission seized, what are my options in getting this thing back to driving mode? I don't think the transmission is going into gear. I'm going to try and figure out what happened before bring it anywhere.

Oh before I forget its a 2006 tdi (brm) 1.9 with manual transmission.

Any sound input or help is welcome..

Thanks

https://flic.kr/p/XMN2Ry

Henrick · Sep 4, 2017

Doesn't look like transmission has been damaged at all, you just need to extract the broken bolts.
Also, bear in mind that there should be a "washer" made of paper between the trans and the shaft, so probably you will need to order that one from the dealer.
Worst case scenario, if the "cup" on the transmission side is damaged, it can be replaced separately from the trans.

sonspot · Sep 4, 2017

Thanks for the reply, only reason why I'm thinking the transmission might be damage is because of the broken bolts why would or what would make the axle just break off like that..

Question, with the passenger side axle not connected will the transmission spin? its manual so it should if I put in gear and try to move unless the clutch and or flywheel is gone right?

kbaisley · Sep 4, 2017

My 5spd BRM dropped the axle. If you do a quick search, there are a few VW /Audi's where these bolts have come loose. Several of the bolts on mine were worn from being loose and wobbling. I didn't hear or feel anything until the axle dropped. Someone else in the forum mentioned to use brake clean on the bolts and threads, with some Loctite, which I do on mine now, out of habit, so they do not come loose.

You should be able to put the car up on jack stands and turn the wheel to see if it binds. I am thinking that a few bolts were loose and they sheared. If you are lucky, you will be able to easy out the broken off bolts in the flange. I would recommend chasing the threads on all 6 and using Loctite. Check the other side whilst you are in there.

sonspot · Sep 4, 2017

kbaisley said:
My 5spd BRM dropped the axle. If you do a quick search, there are a few VW /Audi's where these bolts have come loose. Several of the bolts on mine were worn from being loose and wobbling. I didn't hear or feel anything until the axle dropped. Someone else in the forum mentioned to use brake clean on the bolts and threads, with some Loctite, which I do on mine now, out of habit, so they do not come loose.

You should be able to put the car up on jack stands and turn the wheel to see if it binds. I am thinking that a few bolts were loose and they sheared. If you are lucky, you will be able to easy out the broken off bolts in the flange. I would recommend chasing the threads on all 6 and using Loctite. Check the other side whilst you are in there.

Thanks for the reply, my main problem is the car is not going into gear, I need to figure that out. With the passenger side axle not attached to the transmission should the drivers side get power... Oh I can move the shifter thru all gears easy without the clutch..

sonspot · Sep 5, 2017

Can someone post all the sockets I need to remove the transmission.. I've been it before but I'm nowhere close to my tools..

If I get this LUK clutch kit will it weather I have the sach or luk in the car already?

OEM Part Number: 038105264E
Manufacturer Number: 17-050

Thanks

Rx7145 · Sep 7, 2017

I also had the bolts all fall out. I check them every so often now.

Tdijarhead · Sep 7, 2017

You're not the only one this has happened to. If there is no visible damage to the transmission housing put it all back together. You will need six new axle bolts. When you order them keep in mind that the axle bolts for the manual and the automatic are different.

Torque them properly. There is a fiber/paper gasket that is probably missing and three lock plates that span two of the bolts at a time. And a small tube of axle grease.

http://www.idparts.com/axle-bolt-inner-all-speed-p-1286.html

http://www.idparts.com/output-flange-inner-cv-joint-gasket-seal-p-1886.html

http://www.idparts.com/axle-locking-plate-speed-p-2578.html

Examine the output shaft flange. That's the part the six bolts screw into. If it's damaged you can also replace that, it's held by a single bolt underneath all that grease.

If it shifted fine before and no visible damage occurred. Then it's likely the cables just need adjusting.

I think that cascade German parts or someone like that has a YouTube video on how to adjust the cables.

Just be sure the axle didn't saw a hole in the side of the oil pan or transmission housing when it came loose. The car will not move with one axle disconnected.

newlitemotorist · Sep 7, 2017

Are you saying you can no longer shift gears at the selector or are you saying the car is no longer moving when in gear?

If the later statement represents your results, it is simply because your transmission is equipped with an "open" differential. An open differential allows each drive wheel to spin at different rates of speed which is necessary for smooth turning maneuvers. However, the downside of an open differential is it spins the wheel with the least resistance which is why people can find themselves stuck when encountering slippery cituations. In your case, your axle is disconnected causing the output flange on that side of your transaxle to be the path of lease resistance. If you put your car in gear and have a look under the car (parking brake on and wheels chocked of course...use your brain!!!), you will observe the output flange spinning away.

Sounds to me like your transmission is fine. Simply replace the bolts using blue thread locking compound and motor on!

newlitemotorist · Sep 7, 2017

Also, these transmissions are "synchronized" which would explain why you can shift through the gears without depressing the clutch. Ill take a stab at explaining this, the way I understand it anyways. With synchronized transmissions, if your are in say 3rd gear, gears 2 and 4 are already lined up for engagement due to the synchronizing gears. Depressing the clutch simply disconnects the link between your engine and the input shaft of the gear box, allowing the input shaft to slow down enough for smooth engagement while the engine remains at its current operating speed. In fact, you can actually shift gears while driving without depressing the clutch if you reduce your speed and shift the gears slowly. This is one way of determining the condition of your synchronizing gears but its probably not advisable.

Someone with more knowledge feel free to chime in if this is inaccurate information.

sonspot · Sep 10, 2017

newlitemotorist said:
Are you saying you can no longer shift gears at the selector or are you saying the car is no longer moving when in gear?

If the later statement represents your results, it is simply because your transmission is equipped with an "open" differential. An open differential allows each drive wheel to spin at different rates of speed which is necessary for smooth turning maneuvers. However, the downside of an open differential is it spins the wheel with the least resistance which is why people can find themselves stuck when encountering slippery cituations. In your case, your axle is disconnected causing the output flange on that side of your transaxle to be the path of lease resistance. If you put your car in gear and have a look under the car (parking brake on and wheels chocked of course...use your brain!!!), you will observe the output flange spinning away.

Sounds to me like your transmission is fine. Simply replace the bolts using blue thread locking compound and motor on!

I did that with my helper looking under the car maybe needed more light or should have had someone else as a helper.. This is why I was asking about the transmission.. getting other help today..

j_martell · Sep 10, 2017

newlitemotorist said:
Also, these transmissions are "synchronized" which would explain why you can shift through the gears without depressing the clutch. Ill take a stab at explaining this, the way I understand it anyways. With synchronized transmissions, if your are in say 3rd gear, gears 2 and 4 are already lined up for engagement due to the synchronizing gears. Depressing the clutch simply disconnects the link between your engine and the input shaft of the gear box, allowing the input shaft to slow down enough for smooth engagement while the engine remains at its current operating speed. In fact, you can actually shift gears while driving without depressing the clutch if you reduce your speed and shift the gears slowly. This is one way of determining the condition of your synchronizing gears but its probably not advisable.

Someone with more knowledge feel free to chime in if this is inaccurate information.

The synchronization occurs as you shift to the intended gear. There's a cup and a cone (the "wear parts") for each gear set that match the rotation speed of the shafts as you shift from gear to gear (except reverse, obviously)

I drive a Mack with a non-synchro manual and cant shift all the gears sitting still....they need to be "moved" (engine running or truck rolling) to line up.

If shifting gears with the clutch all the way in produces a "grinding" or "buzzing" noise, then the synchro on that gear is failing. I had an old Jeep with a bad 3rd synchro and managed just fine for a few years by either double-clutching or float shifting, more often the latter.

newlitemotorist · Sep 11, 2017

Yeah, now that you mention how it actually works I recall viewing a video produced back in the 50's (it seems) where they demonstrate the synchronizing concept with a cone and cup. Check it out, they explain synchromesh towards the end...I love these old videos

. Good stuff!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gX5Sidu1nK0

sonspot · Sep 14, 2017

Thanks for chiming in guys. The axle is in but I have couple new issues that was not there before, the most important one is the power steering works on and off.

I did remove the battery after the axle broke to check out the transmission from the top and cables. The problem is the power (assist) steering will work then cuts out mostly when I'm turning left, I check and nothing seem damaged and no codes it just keeps cutting out, when driving straight it seems fine..

I've done the reset procedure, it will work for a min then act up again.

Tdijarhead · Sep 15, 2017

I'd say when that spinning axle came loose it hit something. Check your steering rack for damage or maybe just a loose/damaged wire.

sonspot · Sep 15, 2017

Tdijarhead said:
I'd say when that spinning axle came loose it hit something. Check your steering rack for damage or maybe just a loose/damaged wire.

I checked for damage and all that, I think I found the problem, wire rusted off from the fuse area. probably happened when took the battery and tray out the moving was what did it in.. I have to get some connector to fix it then go from there..

The other problem, I'm getting some vibration around 2000 rpm in 2nd and 3rd.. The transmission flange seemed fine but I could be wrong on that.

Broken passenger side Axle

sonspot

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Henrick

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kbaisley

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