bens993
Member
I'm replacing my sunshade on a 2011 sportwagen. I have the headliner out but appears both glass panels have to be removed. Anyone know how to do this? There are several threads but none specifically for the mk6.
I suspect so. As I said, I have not done this, so I am no expert but it sounds like the pinch protection is not working right and the adaptation is supposed to reset the pinch protection. It can't hurt to try it, it sounds like a very simple procedure. I would watch is very closely as it closes the first time, just in case it gets caught on something.I got the shade installed but when I went to close it the shade starts to close but then it stops and goes back. Does this mean it needs the adaptation mode performed?
One of our friends kids carpooled with us yesterday and ended up ripping out the shade on the passenger side from the rails. We let them know but doubt the will even share any of the costs to replace the shade.There have been changes to the part numbers and Assembly. New track clips are necessary if you attempt this repair. Parts department neglected to tell me either of those things when I ordered. Had to take apart and replace the Headliner twice while waiting for the part.
I really hated doing this repair. It wasn't hard just time consuming. Worst part is the new liner is now failing as well. It's just a terrible design I'm buying a heat sheild, tinting the glass and cutting my losses.
I haven't gotten it fixed yet. With all the dieselgate drama, I am still holding out to see what the fate of my car will be.Rambalu how did your install go, or how much did it cost to get fixed?
Perhaps their fix wasn't sufficient. Getting to the rear drain tubes is relatively easy. I fixed mine last weekend and it took less than an hour. There is an excellent video on YouTube on 2010 Sportwagen panoramic roof drain repair. You just remove 2 torx nuts and everything else snaps off. You can reach the drain tubes and pull them off the roof channel. Blow through the tubes and if you hear any air between the tube and the nipple which attaches to the roof, you found the leak. Just seal with silicone and then put a bit inside the nipple so you have a good seal. the silicone was used to seal the connection and then I wrapped some blue painters tape around the repair so I didn't have to wait a day for it to dry. I just put a bit more silicone around the inside of the connector and pushed it back on and snapped everything back. I did the fronts last summer and they haven't leaked.I got the drain tubes fixed 7 months ago, now its leaking again. The dealer says its the frame this time. $2000+. Anyone know if this is something hat can be fixed with sealer/epoxy/silicone? Im not usually into badly patching up problems, but $2000 is too much if i might have to sell it back anyway.
The leak is rear passenger corner of the pano sunroof. Im thinking of pulling the rear glass and patching the leaking spot. Please stop me if this sounds like a terrible idea!
Your links helped me get the sunshade replaced today! Just wanted to thank you for posting this!!It appears that you only need to remove the rear sunroof glass. I have never done this, but this is what I know:
Removing Pano sunshade: http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Pano_sun_shade.pdf
Removing Pano Rear Glass: http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Pano_Rear_Glass.pdf
Sunroof Adaptation (needed after replacement): http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Pano_Adaptation.pdf
Note: These instructions say they are for 2005-2008 pano roofs, but these were never sold in the US. The (US) 2009 is exactly the same and I have been told that the 2009 - 2013 (and probably 2014) "Sportwagens" have the exact same part numbers for all Pano sunroof parts. Therefore, the instructions above will probably be helpful to you.
I just did mine today. Don't trust the eBay "does this fit" tool. Look at the listing and contact the seller if necessary. Here's what I bought. Just make sure you get the right color for your car!I have a 14 JSW TDI. All the ebay fabrics listed in this thread claim to not fit my vehicle. Does anyone have a link to one that does?
I guess VW/Audi really sucks at sourcing quality sunshades.
This seems to be a very common problem with the B8 A/S/RS-4/5, as well. I'm curious if they're the same part number. I'd bet they used the same manufacturer to make them though.
I had a similar thought. I've been meaning to pull my sunroof out and pull the shade so that I can take it apart and see if it can be fixed or improved easily, but I've been working on setting up my MK2 for a track day, so everything else has been on the back burner.The problem, from my observations, is more related to the construction of of the fabric roll. It's without structure, and the clocksprings on the ends are the only things keeping it rolled up. Recall the old skool roll-up window blinds; those have a rod to help aid with a more "organized" rolling up sequence. The fabric roll for the VW doesn't have that. If VW integrated some sort of bendable rod for the fabric to roll onto, it might help extend longevity.
Where can I get my hands on these updated VW procedures you talked about earlier? I had this same problem during my install. The shade closed fine, but when I went to retract it, the clock spring got all twisted up and ruined. Maybe the clockspring didn't follow the plastic tabs into the tray correctly?3) It's only AFTER you get the clocksprings into the sunshade rail can you finally bolt the tray onto the mounting bracket. BUT (and I must emphasize this), follow the diagram exactly, down to the placement of the fabric. I believe I had tabs on the tray incorrectly positioned with respect to the sunshade rail, and therefore the tabs weren't able to "guide" the fabric back into the tray. That's my hunch, as I'm still trying to figure out if that was the actual culprit.
This may have also been the problem I had when retracting the shade. Can you go into a little more detail about how you stretched the fabric over the trays curvature? Stretched in what directions? What diagram are you referencing?This time around I followed the diagram down to the exact placement of the fabric. I also noticed that the fabric had to be precisely stretched over the tray’s sheetmetal “curvature,” which was crucial to getting the fabric to roll back up into the tray. I unfortunately made this slight oversight and didn’t stretch the fabric when bolting up the assembly to the mounting bracket; a quick roll/unroll test started jamming the fabric.
I put the fabric roll back into the tray, and probably for the fourth or fifth time, I reinstalled the assembly back into the car. By this time I was getting pretty confident with guiding those clock springs into the rail. Prior to bolting the assembly to the mounting bracket, I made certain that the fabric roll was stretched over the tray’s curvature. With the assembly bolted up I gave it one more test, and this time it was successful.