HOW TO change the lower control arm bushing

I think the TT bushings are worth the extra money, but am curious to see if anyone else feels that their weak point is that they aren't as durable when jacking up the car for tire changes, back yard car work, etc...

I notice mine are torn last time I had the car on jacks. Looked like having it jacked up could have been the cause.

Did you use OEM Audi bushings or aftermarket? From reading these forums, it seems to me the problems are with the aftermarket bushing, whether for the A$ or the TT.

Some parts, I just want OEM.

df

No issues with my Audi tt's.

So, if I'm not going to replace the ball joint, I just remove the front and rear bushing bolts and the 3 bolts to the ball joint plate and the control arm is removed...? Is it really that easy?

df

dieselfuel said:

So, if I'm not going to replace the ball joint, I just remove the front and rear bushing bolts and the 3 bolts to the ball joint plate and the control arm is removed...? Is it really that easy?

df

Click to expand...

If I remember correctly - our going to have to remove sway bar bolts also, and compress the springs(which will be the most of your time) - or you will have an extremely hard time trying to re-install the control arm.

If ou have never done the ball joints (these take some time to remove) - may be a good time to do them now - and not have to do then again in X years.
This will also only require you to do an alignment once.(toe in/out can be set/adjusted in your garage also).

Recommend start putting some penetrating oil (or 50/50 acetone/atf) on the bolts now to make things easier.

Yes, forgot about the swaybar links. They will have to be removed.

So, I have to compress the strut springs...?

dieselfuel said:

Yes, forgot about the swaybar links. They will have to be removed.

So, I have to compress the strut springs...?

Click to expand...

You don't have to compress the strut springs to get the LCA's in/out. The LCA's are easy to get out if you give them a couple lite taps with a dead blow hammer. It'll be easier to reinstall the LCA's if you have spring compressors, but not required. Getting the ball joint end back into the LCA is a PITA without. But if you don't have short spring compressors (a set with a short threaded rod), then you can do the job without.

On the ball joints, you can mark the three bolts that connect the ball joint to the LCA with some bright colored spray paint before you remove them. Then you can screw them in their original spot when you do the re-install.

Just replace the ball joints if you haven't done so already...the last thing you need to do is suck up another Saturday because you didn't do it last time you were under the car. you are 95% of the way there.

Just my 2 pennies worth...

Thanks.

If I put a jack under the brake rotor or the steering knuckle or whatever, can't the jack be lifted to compress the spring (s)?

df

dieselfuel said:

Thanks.

If I put a jack under the brake rotor or the steering knuckle or whatever, can't the jack be lifted to compress the spring (s)?

df

Click to expand...

Well...you can try, but you won't be able to compress the spring with a floor jack. You'll be able to lift the whole assembly a bit.

Cool.

Now, I just have got to find some down time for the car to do the work. :>)

df

This helps:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/LCA-bushing-Jetta.htm

Also, don't forget to get a NEW 18mm for the front, & a different 18mm bolt (and one nut!) for the rear when putting everything back together! These are one time only use hardware.

Newbie and loving it

Hey guy's,
New to the VW world (FEB 2012) and loving it, also new to the forum or at least posting because it's so informative that I have had all my questions answered without posting until now and for that my hats off to all those of that are so helpful.

Info- '99 Jetta TDi 185K Manuel- Replacing control arm with new ones (complete with bushings), ball joints, tie rod ends and stabilizer links.

As for my question- The passenger side went great 1.5hr and I thought I was cool UNTIL I got to the driver side and had to cut the nut off the tie rod end and the front CR bolt is seized inside the sleeve of the bushing. I cant get the bolt to release. I have unthreaded the bolt out of the nut hopping the pressure would cause the the sleeve to release but all I achieved was bending the frame.

Any help would be great.

For those with access to honking big sockets (3/4" drive), a 1-3/4" socket works wonders for pressing in the rear LCA bushings. In Wingnut's pic, he used two pieces of hardwood to press the bushing in. That works great to get the bushings 95% of the way in. Problem is you'll get to point where you need an additional 1/8" or so to get the bushing fully seated. At least I did...

Take the two pieces of wood and put them behind the LCA (they were in front of the LCA in Wingbut's pic), so that they support the back side of the LCA in the vice. Then take the socket and put in place around the metal lip of the bushing, allowing the other end of the socket to rest against the lip of the vice. Tighten the vice down. Bushing is snug. Life is good.

White440 said:

Hey guy's,
New to the VW world (FEB 2012) and loving it, also new to the forum or at least posting because it's so informative that I have had all my questions answered without posting until now and for that my hats off to all those of that are so helpful.

Info- '99 Jetta TDi 185K Manuel- Replacing control arm with new ones (complete with bushings), ball joints, tie rod ends and stabilizer links.

As for my question- The passenger side went great 1.5hr and I thought I was cool UNTIL I got to the driver side and had to cut the nut off the tie rod end and the front CR bolt is seized inside the sleeve of the bushing. I cant get the bolt to release. I have unthreaded the bolt out of the nut hopping the pressure would cause the the sleeve to release but all I achieved was bending the frame.

You may have had the nut inside the subframe break away from the weld. It would feel like the bolt is free-spinning, but won't release out. This just happened to me two weeks ago. The easiest way (for me) to fix it was to use a hole saw and cut out the subframe behind the attachment point. This allows access to weld the nut back in place with a flux core welder. Then you can weld the cut out back into place. If you can't do it, most garages should be able to do it. It took about 10 minutes to fix for me.

There are several threads devoted to this very problem if you search in the MkIV area.

Any help would be great.

Click to expand...

You may have had the nut inside the subframe break away from the weld. It would feel like the bolt is free-spinning, but won't release out. This just happened to me two weeks ago. The easiest way (for me) to fix it was to use a hole saw and cut out the subframe behind the attachment point. This allows access to weld the nut back in place with a flux core welder. Then you can weld the cut out back into place. If you can't do it, most garages should be able to do it. It took about 10 minutes to fix for me.

There are several threads devoted to this very problem if you search in the MkIV area.

If the bolt is coming most of the way out, you should be able to manipulate the LCA to a position where resistance will minimize and the bolt will slide out.

Van Wylder said:

For those with access to honking big sockets (3/4" drive), a 1-3/4" socket works wonders for pressing in the rear LCA bushings. In Wingnut's pic, he used two pieces of hardwood to press the bushing in. That works great to get the bushings 95% of the way in. Problem is you'll get to point where you need an additional 1/8" or so to get the bushing fully seated. At least I did...

Take the two pieces of wood and put them behind the LCA (they were in front of the LCA in Wingbut's pic), so that they support the back side of the LCA in the vice. Then take the socket and put in place around the metal lip of the bushing, allowing the other end of the socket to rest against the lip of the vice. Tighten the vice down. Bushing is snug. Life is good.

Click to expand...

I used a piece of steel plumbing pipe for the press piece. I filed the end a little flatter (the pipe threads made it kind of sharp) and it worked great. I had a "made in china" control arm bushing I took with me to Home Depot to size the pipe. I used genuine VW busings, though.

--Nate

White440 said:

Hey guy's,
New to the VW world (FEB 2012) and loving it, also new to the forum or at least posting because it's so informative that I have had all my questions answered without posting until now and for that my hats off to all those of that are so helpful.

Info- '99 Jetta TDi 185K Manuel- Replacing control arm with new ones (complete with bushings), ball joints, tie rod ends and stabilizer links.

As for my question- The passenger side went great 1.5hr and I thought I was cool UNTIL I got to the driver side and had to cut the nut off the tie rod end and the front CR bolt is seized inside the sleeve of the bushing. I cant get the bolt to release. I have unthreaded the bolt out of the nut hopping the pressure would cause the the sleeve to release but all I achieved was bending the frame.

Any help would be great.

Click to expand...

Besides penetrating oil and some heat which works a lot of the time. My answer for rusted bolt removal if you don't care about re-using is a Dermal tool with a abrasive disk and / or a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a abrasive cut off disk. Yes, this is a safety glasses job. Be aware the sparks can start a fire! Yes I've done it, just once but that was enough.

I had to cut off my tie rod end nut and just planned or replacing both when I did my CV axle replacement. The disks will cut even hardened steel.

dieselfuel said:

Thanks.

If I put a jack under the brake rotor or the steering knuckle or whatever, can't the jack be lifted to compress the spring (s)?

df

Click to expand...

Sure it works fine. When I had my ball joint lower plate off to replace my CV axles. I had the front stabilizer link off and just slipped in the ball joint lower replaced the bolts from the top to hold the alinement and then jacked the CR up to attach the link. Then I put the bolts and plate back on the ball joint lower.

For me the jack on the brake rotor doesn't work so well. Because to get the LCA in you have to pill the rotor out, and I leave the tierod connected so that side causes it to want to swing.

I just keep messing with it and swearing at it and it goes in. Wish I knew a pattern. By that I mean sometimes I install the BJ end last, sometimes in the end I need to do it first.

But I do it without anything to jack up the rotor, or to compress the spring. It does take me some effort though.

Try it my way as above, I did the jack thing on the rotor, lower ball joint like you did with the same results. The way I outlined above worked slick.

And, should we torque to spec the bolts with weight applied ("loaded"), like resting on the ground...?

dieselfuel said:

And, should we torque to spec the bolts with weight applied ("loaded"), like resting on the ground...?

Click to expand...

I never did that to the ball joint bolts and I was following my Bentley. I was torque to something and then another 1/4 or 1/2 turn which I thought was strange. Why not just xx for torque and be done with it?

When I did my CV axles and then the wheel nut it was on the ground and done as the book.

I used new bolts for the ball joints, got at NAPA. I also used Blue Locktite, just because I thought it was a critical item.

I believe it has to do with the torque to yield. Easier to figure out bolt stretch by rotation angle than rotating torque.

LCA Bushing Change

Just did mine. It was a tough job for me. Took about 3 hours each side.
The hardest part was getting the rear bushing pressed in. I have a very large vice that is mounted on a bench. I used some old treated pine 1" x 4" and drilled 1-1/4" hole through the middle to accomodate the center tube of the bushing as I pressed. I had to make several since they would crack. On the second rear bushing I placed a flat 1/4" steel plate behind the block of wood I was pressing toward. This helped. I had to use a sledge hammer to turn the vice handle--hitting hard. I feel that both rear bushings could have gone in another 1/64" to 1/32" or so, but wood is just too soft. I think this could be achieved using the vise only with steel blocks with holes (instead of wood). Another problem was getting the three ball joint holes lined back up. I found this doable withthout the rotor jacked (low level). I used a big screwdriver to move the ball joint until the holes were close, but never could get the holes perfectly aligned until I poked a small torx driver in and turned in a circle--this aligned the holes and the bolt went right in--YIPPEE...Good luck.

dieselfuel said:

And, should we torque to spec the bolts with weight applied ("loaded"), like resting on the ground...?

Click to expand...

I've read this several times on this list, but Bentley makes no mention of it, its difficult, and I concluded that the front bushing guide has enough clearance around the bolt and will pivot around the bolt after it is fully tightened, so it does not matter. The rear busing, the way its designed, won't matter, so I did not bother attempting tightening with the weight on the control arms when I replaced mine. In 150,000 miles (or sooner if wear is evident) I will let you know (this is when the original rear bushings showed noticeable wear).

I used genuine VW control arm busings when I replaced mine, have the VW logo on them (bought at 1stvwparts.com for about the same price as OEM aftermarket ones). I have read several posts of people using OEM manufacturers' bushings, but bought at places other than the dealer, not lasting long at all, in some cases. There are also the "made in China" ones with no name on them. These fail quickly from what I read here. Maybe some of the OEM suppliers are cheaping out and buying parts made in a certain very large country, far away.

--Nate

Just did my control arm rear bushings last night...

the rear bushing was removed using the "ball joint press" free loaner tool from Autozone. The huge C-clamp looking thing. It popped right out real easy with the Autozone tool...no cutting or hammering. I strongly recommend using a large bench vice just to hold the control arm while using the C-clamp press.

To intall the new rear bushing I just used the large bench vice and one of the round press tools from the Ball Joint Press tool kit to drive the bushing in.

over all, very easy and fast using the Autozone press kit on the rear bushing

I just did this project this weekend and I would like to offer some tips:

Take down the subframe. Get new bolts, those are 21 mm head 74 ft-lb + 1/4 turn TTY single use bolts. I wanted to change my 23 mm stabilizer bar bushings (old G, new T) and that is very, very hard to do on the car if you are working on jacks like I am. You'll need to lift both sides of the car at the frame lift points. Pull the 4 13 mm bolts from the steering rack and 2 bolts on the exhaust, and the dogbone mount, then take out the 4 21 mm bolts for the subframe. If you have a couple of jacks you can lower the subframe with both LCA's still on it. If I had it to do over again, I would do that.

I repainted the subframe and mounted the stabilizer bar bushings and clips and put it back up. If I had a better jack, I would suggest mounting the LCA's to the subframe and lifting everything up at once. It isn't that hard to line up the steering rack holes.

To pull the rear LCA bushing, I just cut the aluminum with a chisel and pounded the old bushing out. That worked easily.

For pushing the new bushing in, I had an adapter in my Harbor Freight press kit that I have used for front wheel bearings, that got me in quite a way with a block on the back side with hole drilled. Then I used a 1 3/4" socket that someone here suggested.

For the front bushing I got new stock rubber because they were cheap. Very hard to get the old ones out and new ones in. The split poly replacement would install quite easily.

Also since I have an automatic the front bolt on the driver's side LCA was also tricky to get to. Yet another place where bolting the LCA's to the subframe and lifting everything as an assembly would be easier.

If you remove the subframe you need to spend $25 or so on new bolts, but it enables you to scrape the rust off and paint it, the LCA front bolts are easier to get to, as well as the top nut for the rear bolts, and the stabilizer bar bushings can be handled much easier.

Now I need to replace the upper strut mounts. I bought a pair of Powerflex Urethane mounts for $66.91 shipped from the UK. With the awful roads here in New York the rubber strut mounts just don't last. The front of the car has sunk an inch or so.

If you remove the subframe, you also need to have an alignment done, so add $100 for that. Changing parts in place does not affect the geometry of the front end very much and the need for an alignment is greatly reduced.

Wingnut said:

If you remove the subframe, you also need to have an alignment done, so add $100 for that. Changing parts in place does not affect the geometry of the front end very much and the need for an alignment is greatly reduced.

Click to expand...

I haven't had an alignment done since I have owned the car. I've changed wheel bearings, now next am doing the upper strut mounts. But your point is well taken. If all if you have is a bad rear LCA bushing, then pulling the subframe is probably extreme. But if someone is doing a pretty extensive R & R like I am, I think pulling the subframe is a good path. After I get the new Poly upper strut mounts installed I plan to do an alignment.

Just did the rear LCA bushings on my 03 jetta. Had a lot of "wobbling" of the car when I used the brakes. Felt a lot like brake rotor warpage, but no real/consistent pedal pulsing or steering wheel vibration. It continued after I did all four brakes (meyle platinum rotors and Hudson ceramics from IDParts). Guy at IDParts suggested bushings when i emailed about warped rotors. Initial test drive seems a lot better. Car has 228K and original bushings. They looked OK on the car, but once I had them out, there was a crack thru the rubber of one. Fronts looked great and stayed in.

A few things for weekend wrenchers. I did a lot of reading and you tubing to figure out if I wanted to try this and there is some conflicting or missing info out there.

1. Don't be afraid of this job but line up a shop or buddy with a press first. You can do it with a vise, but it is much quicker and less frustrating with a press. My buddy has one or I would have bought the HF one to do this. I used the TT bushings and had to file down the ridge on the inside of the non beveled side of the LCA to get them in straight. Pressed them in from the non beveled side because the welds on that side would not let the LCA lie flat in the press.
2. On the auto, you need to unbolt the dogbone from the frame and rotate engine with a jack to get clearance for the front drivers side bolt to come out. Very simple, don't be scared.
3. You can do this without separating the ball joint. Just take out the 3 BJ bolts out from the bottom (the "nuts" on top are part of the backing plate. They don't turn but at least one YouTube vid says they do). Once all 6 LCA bolts are out on one side you can push the LCA back and pull the wheel out. Once the LCA clears the ball joint, just tilt it down and pull
4. If you remove sway bar bolts from both sides, you can rotate it up to get the links out of the way. Don't forget to reattach. Those bolts are reusable.
5. If you spray paint the BJ bolts, you can line up the LCA back where it was. Use the old bolts to position it then change them one at a time for new ones.
6. You don't need to compress the struts. Install the LCA by getting the bushings in and back as far as they go and pull the wheel out while it is straight ahead. Rotate the BJ plate down and slide it into the LCA while square. Its tight but it will go. Use a big screw driver and BFH to lever the LCA around until the BJ holes line up. Thread in OLD bolts, line up paint, and tighten down.
7. Attach front and rear bushing bolts on each side before doing sway bar bolts. I found it easier to do fronts before rears.
8. Don't send your 16 YO to Ace for a tool. I asked for a 18mm offset and he got another 18mm socket. It worked, but a wrench would have been a lot handier for this.

Last thing, 52 ftlbs is a lot of torque when you are laying under the car. That +1/4 turn required a pipe and breaker bar.

I'll let you know in a few weeks if it fixed my wobble.

Just a couple comments, as I am in the middle of removing/replacing the rear control-arm bushings:

1) As many have noted, the autozone ball-joint press helps in removing/replacing the old/new rear bushing. It is still not as fool-proof as one would like, as the sizes of the rings are not exactly what you want them to be - but, with lots of finagling, it can be done. In the end, I found it easiest to sawzall out the old bushings, but cutting the metal, then using the autozone tool to reinstall the new bushings.

*with the autozone press, the new bushing started to press in at an angle - this caused me much grief and anxiety. I had few options, so I kept pressing - eventually, they straightened out.

2) Regarding removal of the control arms: I started on the passenger side. I decided to go with the "remove ball-joint by unscrewing the nut up against the cv joint." I forgot about the part where - yes, the ball joint will pop out, but NOT COMPLETELY. You now have a nut attached to a spinning ball joint. I could find no way to remove the nut without destroying the ball joint. I missed the caveat in the instructions - this method is to be used if you are planning on installing new ball joints (I wasn't).

3) Since my ball joints are actually in great shape, I decided to try the other method of removal on the driver-side "Remove the 3 13mm bolts holdling the LCA to the ball joint". The difficulty with this method is final removal of the LCA is a PITA, as it is difficult to clear the LCA from the ball joint. I did manage to get it out, with a fight - but I am now having major difficulties getting it back in.

Basically - I would suggest replacing both ball joints, and just doing whatever you have to do to get the old ones out (either cut the bolt, or as, I did, remove the rubber from the ball joint, then use pliers to hold the spinning bolt and unscrew the nut.)

Removing the LCA, and Replacing the bushings, while keeping the balljoints, is no easy task.