BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
I think I mentioned this before, but there is a bundle of wires comes across the front near the starter under the battery and up a wire race towards the ECU. Many of the wires in that bundle are engine controls.
Fixed it.I will try to keep this post as short as is possible. You consistently go from bad to good at the same temperature all the time; you mention there was an accident involving the front end, here is what has been burning on my mind for days:
Years ago there was a woman that lived in one of the local rural valleys and was having phone problems; every time the weather got cold her phone did not work but the local phone company only held daytime hours and during the day the phone always worked.
After many, many, unresolved phone tech trips to her area (the phone company thought she was imagining things) one technician set up a test rig to run on her phone after dark, and lo and behold after dark her phone did not work. The lady was right after all, there was a wire with a crack/break in it that when warm made contact, and when cold shrank back just enough to have no contact in the phone line.
My point is you may have a wire chaffed somewhere that is not obvious, and when the engine/pump/wiring get warm the chaffed portion moves away from whatever it is touching and stops causing the problem. Just a thought.
Here is another thought: disconnect the #3 injector connector when the engine is cold and see if anything changes, with the engine being hot or cold. The #3 injector wires do fray, cause issues, and do not always throw a code in the process leaving the owner scratching their head. I just went through a bad #3 injector that was causing me tons of grief and did not throw a code until it was completely dead.
Your post (paragraphs). (I have way too much time on my hands today! )aja8888, what did you fix, the problem or my post?
You did an autopsy of the (repaired) head after this post?:When I had this problem, it turned out to be a bad valve seat on the newly reconditioned head.
The car would blow smoke until it reached 190 degrees and then it was like a switch flipped and it ran perfect.
This is my thread from years ago. In the end, I replaced the motor. I should have listened to Frank06. He called me after reading my thread and new it was a bad valve job. I sent him the head and he fixed it immediately.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=152410
Confused as to what was the real source (head or rings).Update. The damage to the motor was more severe then amyone knew. Low compression on cylinders 3 & 4 was causing the problem. The only thing we could attibute it to was bad rings but when I pulled out the pistons the rings spun freely.
I bought a motor out of a 2003 Bettle and swapped them this weekend.
What a job.
I couldn't hasve done it without Brian's (alphaseinor) help. He ia a real workhorse and the swap went perfect. It's nice to have it back to normal after 4 months.
Your thread says a shop found low compression but you had no idea as the rings moved freely you than swapped out the motor, so was it rings or valve seat?When I had this problem, it turned out to be a bad valve seat on the newly reconditioned head.
The car would blow smoke until it reached 190 degrees and then it was like a switch flipped and it ran perfect.
This is my thread from years ago. In the end, I replaced the motor. I should have listened to Frank06. He called me after reading my thread and new it was a bad valve job. I sent him the head and he fixed it immediately.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=152410
One white whale at a time LOL, Plus I am enjoying the journey to learning these TDI's. We have a complete performance engine my son built sitting in his old car that got wrecked and we bought this one to swap that motor into but have since decided to find a Audi TT quattro convertible and do a TDI swap into that.You wanna buy another one????
Man, I can make yer dreams come true.........
My car does not have an EGR snake delete and I don't even know what it is, The one I was dealing with is all stock The crack in the tube was allowing the exhaust gases to escape to the atmosphere and gas being a liquid will take the path of least resistance and this path has less resistance than the turbo thus spooling the turbo slower and at one point almost not at all, This created less airflow for the engine thus the incomplete combustion. When the pipe would warm up the crack would seal allowing normal operation of the turbo. When you do a EGR delete you block off this pipe once again allowing normal turbo operation. I posted my fix in the hopes it helps out the original poster.Glad to hear your problem is resolved!
What is an EGR snake delete? Was the cooling removed, or the vacuum lines and electrical, or both? So the exhaust was still flowing through the EGR even though it, or part of it, was disabled? Or I guess, even if the space ship were stuck closed, the exhaust would still push gases through the cooler to the EGR, escaping out of the crack, if the cooler was not blocked off.
How about a better attitude toward people wasting their time trying to help you?The egr is removed.
The car displayed the identical symptoms when I arrived at Colorado and picked the pos up. At that time, the egr was intact.
Injectors have been swapped with an entirely different set.
No, there are no codes other than the check engine for the egr.
How about just answering my question regarding interchangeability of computers?
I think my problem may well be in the computer "thinking" it is performing properly when the heck it is not. Hence: my question re: a lightening strike.
Which years and models computer will fit this 2002 Jetta with auto?
Simple question....needing simple answer.