Front control arms worn out

calimustang · Jun 30, 2017

Hello,

I have HD Bilstein shocks and would like recommendations for good control arms replacement? I would like to get poly bushings with better control arms. I am fairly new with TDI world. Everyday is a learning experience for me.

Now she have nearly 254k miles.

calimustang · Jul 1, 2017

Anyone? I see people read this but no response? I need recommendations. I drive my car around 40k a year.... would this be good parts to use?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-par...h-ecs-polyurethane-bushings/017047ecs01-02~a/

Tdijarhead · Jul 1, 2017

Sure, if you've got money to burn.

More cost effective.

http://www.idparts.com/ball-joints-control-arms-c-36_179.html

travis45 · Jul 1, 2017

TDI Club member MIVWTDI had some like the ECS ones for sale. Not sure if they sold or not. Either way, friendly fellow who sold me a few parts. I'm sure he'd be happy to tell you what he had and his experience.

vr6chris · Jul 2, 2017

The control arms themselves shouldn't ever wear out unless they rust to pieces. The bushings, however, do wear out and the front bushings have a tendency to squeak over bumps when cold.

Those aluminum control arms look to be early Passat B6 arms. You should be able to buy them used for ~$100 a pair and then put in whatever bushings you want. The rear mounts on the Passat are slightly different, so you need to stick with Golf/Jetta rear mounts.

I put the aluminum arms on my car with new OEM front bushings. I also used the Passat aluminum bearing housings. They're about 3lb lighter than the G/J ones. Overall I'm happy with the results.

calimustang · Jul 8, 2017

Thanks guys!

yrktreg · Jul 13, 2017

vr6chris said:
The control arms themselves shouldn't ever wear out unless they rust to pieces. The bushings, however, do wear out and the front bushings have a tendency to squeak over bumps when cold.

Those aluminum control arms look to be early Passat B6 arms. You should be able to buy them used for ~$100 a pair and then put in whatever bushings you want. The rear mounts on the Passat are slightly different, so you need to stick with Golf/Jetta rear mounts.

I put the aluminum arms on my car with new OEM front bushings. I also used the Passat aluminum bearing housings. They're about 3lb lighter than the G/J ones. Overall I'm happy with the results.

Do you happen to have a year range for the early B6's that had these arms?
I'd ask for a part number, but i'm sure that's asking way too much

Henrick · Jul 13, 2017

There exist bushing inserts from Audi as a direct replacement for worn out stock ones.
The hexagon is much tighter and the busing is a little bit stiffer.
They have longer lifespan an can be fitted as a remedy for worn out control arms.

yrktreg · Jul 14, 2017

Henrick said:
There exist bushing inserts from Audi as a direct replacement for worn out stock ones.
The hexagon is much tighter and the busing is a little bit stiffer.
They have longer lifespan an can be fitted as a remedy for worn out control arms.

What audi model would they be from?

Thanks for the info!

Henrick · Jul 14, 2017

Audi TT 2009 and up.
Brackets part numbers are: left - 1K0199231N, right - 1K0199232N
But you really need inserts only (I assume you have an access to press to do the work).
Lemforder inserts: 27134 01

Let me know if you have any further questions, including the process of installation of these.

yrktreg · Jul 15, 2017

Henrick said:
Audi TT 2009 and up.
Brackets part numbers are: left - 1K0199231N, right - 1K0199232N
But you really need inserts only (I assume you have an access to press to do the work).
Lemforder inserts: 27134 01

Let me know if you have any further questions, including the process of installation of these.

Thanks Henrick, yes please to the process of installation.

I do have access to a press, anything special to it?

tleader · Jul 15, 2017

I used the Whiteline bushings and they are still going strong with no play or visible wear. I had them in my 2010 JSW before I returned it to VW and then swapped them into my 2006. Not too expensive and work well.

vr6chris · Jul 15, 2017

yrktreg said:
Do you happen to have a year range for the early B6's that had these arms?
I'd ask for a part number, but i'm sure that's asking way too much

2006 to 2010 arms should work. There is a very early style and a later style. The later ones are beefier in the area of the front bushing. Tomorrow I'll update this post with part numbers.

yrktreg · Jul 15, 2017

vr6chris said:
2006 to 2010 arms should work. There is a very early style and a later style. The later ones are beefier in the area of the front bushing. Tomorrow I'll update this post with part numbers.

Thank you sir I think it may be 3C0 407 153 B?

yrktreg · Jul 15, 2017

Henrick said:
Audi TT 2009 and up.
Brackets part numbers are: left - 1K0199231N, right - 1K0199232N
But you really need inserts only (I assume you have an access to press to do the work).
Lemforder inserts: 27134 01

Let me know if you have any further questions, including the process of installation of these.

Ordered some Lemford inserts off of E-Bay, couldn't find any in the US so these are coming from Europe

I see what you mean about the differences in the bushings, these are solid and the VW ones have pockets.

20IndigoBlue02 · Jul 15, 2017

the solid ones only feel good for so long. There's the S3 style bushings that have the 2 holes but not the slits. So you can order Meyle HD rear control arm brackets.

Henrick · Jul 15, 2017

yrktreg said:
Thanks Henrick, yes please to the process of installation.
I do have access to a press, anything special to it?

Nothing very difficult with the assembly.

Simply take your old ones and look at them how they look. Pay attention to the hexagon.

Take one old brakcet, use press the press the old rubber out.
Use some oil to lube the internals of the bracket as well as as the new bushing insert.
Those Audi bushings do NOT have the aligning tab (unlike the original ones - take a peek at the original one you still haven't dismantled), it makes the installation a little bit more complex.
The "flat" face of the new bushing should be facing towrds the rear of the car. Don't mix the sides, this is very important!! The face should be in pressed down to a level until it's completely flat with the bracket.
Also, pay a special attention so that one part of the hex is in one line with the thinner side of the bracket. It should not be twisted to either side at any angle.

Hope this pic helps at least a bit:

[/URL][/IMG]

If you face any problems while installing, let me know and I'll try to assist.

Once pressed in both bushings into original brackets, I'd suggest removing the LCAs from the car and installing the busings on the LCAs on a bench, probably using the presss too (don't forget to lube). As the fit is tighter than the stock ones, having LCAs on bench helps a lot!

Also, bear in mind that wheel alignment will be required after this suspension work.

vr6chris · Jul 16, 2017

yrktreg said:
Thank you sir I think it may be 3C0 407 153 B?

I think that is the part number for the early style. The later version I have is 3C0-407-153-D and came off of a 2007 car. That is the number stamped on it, at least. As a replacement part from VW, the part number is 3C0-407-151-E, which has been replaced by 3C0-407-151-G. These include the rear mount/bushing, which can't be used on our cars.

jesssssser · Jul 16, 2017

What was the car doing that told you your control arm bushings were shot?

yrktreg · Jul 18, 2017

Henrick said:
Nothing very difficult with the assembly.

Simply take your old ones and look at them how they look. Pay attention to the hexagon.

Take one old brakcet, use press the press the old rubber out.
Use some oil to lube the internals of the bracket as well as as the new bushing insert.
Those Audi bushings do NOT have the aligning tab (unlike the original ones - take a peek at the original one you still haven't dismantled), it makes the installation a little bit more complex.
The "flat" face of the new bushing should be facing towrds the rear of the car. Don't mix the sides, this is very important!! The face should be in pressed down to a level until it's completely flat with the bracket.
Also, pay a special attention so that one part of the hex is in one line with the thinner side of the bracket. It should not be twisted to either side at any angle.

Hope this pic helps at least a bit:

[/URL][/IMG]

If you face any problems while installing, let me know and I'll try to assist.

Once pressed in both bushings into original brackets, I'd suggest removing the LCAs from the car and installing the busings on the LCAs on a bench, probably using the presss too (don't forget to lube). As the fit is tighter than the stock ones, having LCAs on bench helps a lot!

Also, bear in mind that wheel alignment will be required after this suspension work.

Thank you, that is very helpful!

calimustang · Jul 28, 2017

Oh wow! Didnt expect any more replies on this. Sorry I wasn't around lately cuz my pc is down. Im using my iphone to check on this thread. Thank you so much for the help! I still am suffering with bad control arms, noisy.

meerschm · Jul 31, 2017

have you considered the possibility that other components are responsible for the noise?

calimustang · Jul 31, 2017

The vw shop said front control arms worn out. It make snoise when i back out. Thats only thing. It vibrates during highway driving. Wheels are balanced and it didnt help.

Henrick · Jul 31, 2017

Hm.. With the sympthoms you've described, to me it looks like worn out or faulty inner CV joints.

It vibrates during highway driving, right? Does it continue to vibrate once you completely take the foot off the accelerator?

Usually worn out control arms or bushings do not cause sensible vibrations (except when taking off)

jesssssser · Aug 1, 2017

Henrick said:
Hm.. With the sympthoms you've described, to me it looks like worn out or faulty inner CV joints.

It vibrates during highway driving, right? Does it continue to vibrate once you completely take the foot off the accelerator?

Usually worn out control arms or bushings do not cause sensible vibrations (except when taking off)

I've got a noise, that happens while the car is in gear, with my foot on the gas. If i'm decelerating or accelerating the noise stops. It isn't terrible, but I believe CV joint replacement is in my future.

calimustang · Aug 1, 2017

Ok I guess the vw shop isnt up to the task. I will check with my trusty local shop to check the noise out.

calimustang · Aug 1, 2017

My car dont make noise while accelerating or decelerating, nothing. Only when I back out, it clunks. And vibrating slightly like if my tires is out of balance but it isnt.

Henrick · Aug 1, 2017

Guys, if you are unable to diagnose on your own, then find some mechanic which will do the diagnosis. It would be really nice if he could take some responsibility for his words

calimustang · Aug 2, 2017

Excuse me?

Henrick · Aug 2, 2017

I mean, if anyone has got some issues and cannot nail it down on his/her own, then a visit to mechanic should be booked.
It's rreally nice when mechanic is able to properly diagnose the issue and/or failed parts rather than starting the game "let's throw some money and replace this, if this doesn't help then we'll replace that".
I'm sure you get the idea what I am talking about

Front control arms worn out

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