What did you do to your MK7 today?

What I did to my MK 7, I replaced a fuel filter and both license plate lights. I was delighted how easy the project went.

RIP TDI said:

I hope they removed the drain valves on the rears, too. On mine, the rears were more restricted than the fronts. The fronts and right rear are protected from road spray, the left rear is not.

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that and the rears have about 4-5 feet of tubing before the flaps.

Got the “Service campaign” (“it’s NOT a recall!”) done on my front sunroof drains.
Service manager here said that even though the d”campaign” calls for just doing the fronts, they typically remove the check valves from the rear ones as well (because....why not?).

Replaced door speakers; rivets are easy enough to drill out but a pain getting the debris out of the door. Sound treated the entire door (didn't really get pics of the finished product but the door makes a solid THUD when closed now). Sealed the door as much as possible for the new speakers. They sound fantastic, running off the Helix amp.
Added EL strip ambient lighting. It's tied to the dimmer switch. I drive at night with everything fully dim and it looks great. It's still not distracting in the car at full bright, looks more intense in the picture than in person. Cool thing is the local dimming in the door (lock and window switches, and now my ambient lighting) goes full bright when the door is opened, which I did not expect/never noticed before. And door exit warning lights with the VW logo. I would prefer an all white VW logo but these are growing on me, and everyone who sees them loves them.
Can't see in pics but replaced the door check straps with those from the previous gen Jetta rear doors. Gives a slightly wider first door stop, adds a second stop at about half open (there was no stock mid stop), and then fully open (which is slightly less open than stock but plenty wide enough).

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Picture of the speaker, which didn't attach properly in the previous post [emoji848]

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Soon as the door card is off, how bad is the splicing job to get those puddle lights installed? Is there a plug and play solution or do you have to hack the loom?

My car is an S so the only wire I had to spice into was ground at the door control module, pin 5. The power wire for the lights goes to pin 16 on the door control module. All on the blue, 32 pin connector. When I get a chance I will link to the DIY I followed. I ended up with only one splice to install these lights. I'm an aircraft electrician by trade so I wouldn't call any of my work hacking into the existing loom but yes, you will have to tie in. When I get around to linking the DIY you will see you need to extend the wiring on the warning light connector pigtails. I bought the correct pins for the connector and made the wiring long enough to not require extending. But if extended properly with butt splices and wrapped with tesa tape like a factory harness you will end up with a very clean job.

To be honest I'm not a big fan of the Tesa tqpe. Over time with heat the adhesive in it sticks to the wiring and is a mess when it comes off. All my future harnesses will be in techflex wire sleeving.

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Everyone's skill set and experience is difference. Soon as wires get cut, I just assume the worse (not saying that's what you did).

I think i've seen one on mk7 from Golfdave.

Just make sure the wires you splice in are a little on the long side, as opposed to a little on the short side. (speaking from experience )

Plugged it and walked away

*coolant heater

Put a jug of def in today. Last 2.5-3 gallons lasted about 10k miles on winter blend. About what i expected.

Not today... but I removed the dogbone insert. The vibration had not decreased in the 1,000-ish miles since install. I should note that my commute is only 2 miles and I convinced my awesome wife to drive it to work for several weeks to speed up the "break in" process; her commute ranges anywhere from 35-90 miles round trip. I got to drive her Tesla during that time. She lost big in the trade I think, haha.

Rant: In the end the vibration never decreased; and was worse with the A/C running. I like to drive with all four windows open 2-3" but with the windows open the vibration seemed to hit a frequency that resonated in the cabin. I could feel it in my ears more than I could hear it (kind of the same feeling on plane with poor cabin pressure control).

A member on GolfMk7 is running the insert (and engine mounts ) on his TDI and says he had no added NVH. It was suggested that my engine/transmission mounts may be misaligned (would have been like that off the assembly line as I haven't touched them). But looking at the Erwin manual for the install mine seem to be right where they should be. We also wondered if my having the reinforced skid plate and the Unibrace UBQ was "heightening" the vibrations I felt due to less overall flex in the chassis. I suppose my subframe could also be shifted, but my alignments have been pretty close to even side-side. In any case, no more insert for me. I'll drive the Mk4 if I want to feel vibrations.

Which insert did you go with? 034? BFI? Super Pro?

Powerflex... They have a part number specifically for the diesels that is - allegedly - softer than their two offerings for the various gassers.

I bet it's the subframe adjustment that threw off the vibration.

My subframe has not required adjustment, according to the 3 different places that have done an alignment. I was just noting that my alignment specs are close to even side-side. Most recent alignment was mid December, at the same time the insert was installed.

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Pretty much only activity to do in these time, a deserted (wintertime) hiking trail.

I wish the hiking trails were deserted, there's a certain metropolis and their burbs that feel a two hour drive is still social distancing.

I did code for rear amber turn signals. cheap thrills, 20 min of coding and $30 in led bulbs. Also coded to have the hatch tail lights work as brake lights.

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8565025-How-To-Amber-Turn-Signals-for-Sportwagen-Alltrack

In the past couple weeks, BCM and Gateway replaced with highline versions, in preparation for some in-progress/future retrofits. BCM was replaced by the dealer and is now back at the dealer for some issues with adaptations (they appear to have been done for an SEL with many options I don't have). Gateway was physically replaced by me but Jack did all the hard work remotely from Poland, between 2 and 5am Monday morning .

With the new Gateway a weird fault I have had for about 6 months is gone. My original gateway showed a fault for "unable to communicate with radio module" that popped up the first time I used OBDeleven. In OBDeleven I had both a 5F Infotainment module and 5E (I think) Radio module. Selecting either of those took me to the same actual module on the car. I had tried re-registering installed modules in the gateway using VCDS but I could not get that fault to clear. OBDeleven is very convenient but I can't bring myself to trust it anymore. If I hadn't bought a 3d printed glovebox holder for it from a member over on GolfMk7 I would sell the thing.

Installed summer wheel and a quick wash.

Replaced the chrome-trim-of-damnation from around the shifter before it could suck the lifeblood out of anyone else.

Discovery said:

Installed summer wheel and a quick wash.

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Remind us what wheels those are?

RIP TDI said:

Remind us what wheels those are?

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Wheels: Alzor 881 18"x8.5" ET45*
Tires: Falken AZENIS FK510 235/40 R18
Spring: H&R Sport 54788

Discovery said:

Wheels: Alzor 881 18"x8.5" ET45*
Tires: Falken AZENIS FK510 235/40 R18
Spring: H&R Sport 54788

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Any wheel spacers?

RIP TDI said:

Any wheel spacers?

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Nope, front wheel are perfectly flush. Missing a few mm in the back, but you have to inspect it carefully to be able to tell.

Discovery said:

Installed summer wheel and a quick wash.

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Nice set of wheels.

Picked up the Golf today from getting the 80k DSG service.

Brake fluid flush on both rides, was pretty slick used 3L of fluid and my home made garden spayer flush kit with motive cap adapter (previously used in 2011 on the old Jetta).

No idea why but the front bleed screws on both cars were crazy tight, needed some decent tapping and force to bust them free.

To tjis day I've never had an easy bleeder.

Seems I've always had to tease them with some heat to Crack them loose, then install new overpriced ones..