PDJetta
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2003
- Location
- Northern Virginia
- TDI
- '04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
Removed and cleaned the intake manifold on Mom's 2000 Jetta TDI this weekend. Car has 30,000 miles on it and she puts maybe 10,000 miles a year on it, a good bit which consists of short trips. In otherwords, conditions that favor intake clogging. The EGR valve and manifold opening was about 30% clogged. No clogging existed in the intake ports of the cylinder head.
Observations:
I do all the wrenching on my and my families cars and I consider myself profecient at it, but I would rate the removal and cleaning of the TDI manifold in terms of pain in the ass/difficulty of about 8 on a scale of 1 - 10, 10 being the hardest. This IS NOT an enjoyable job. It took me five hours, start to finish. The lack of clearance is the main culprit here. After doing this job, you can better believe I'm doing the EGR mod for Mom.
1. Put the car firmly on jack stands and remove the belly pan. Although may be possible to do the job from the top, you will invariablly drop tools and fastners that can not be retrieved with the pan on. I do think its necessary to go from underneath to access one of the three EGR cooler mounting bolts.
2. Replace all the gaskets to be safe. There are 3 metal EGR tube gaskets and one fiber one, an EGR valve-to-manifold O-ring, and the metal intake manifold gasket. They all were special order from the VW dealer and were about $30 for them all. Order them a week ahead of time to have them on hand.
3. There is a vacuum valve/device that is screwed to a little thin metal stepped plate. I unscrewed the metal mounting plate from the manifold, but broke the valve's plastic mounting tab because I thought this was a metal part. It was very brittle. This necessitated a plastic wire tie to secure it upon reassembly. This little valve has a hose running from it to the anti-shudder valve.
4. Be very careful prying off the anti-shudder valve arm from its pivot for the throttle plate. The arm is plastic and can break.
5. A bottle brush is indespensable, along w/ a gallon of kerosene and a can of "Gum Cutter" and an old long thin knife for cleaning out the intake.
6. I was able to access all the allen head screws using 5 and 6 MM standard allen wrenches and a 6 MM 3/8 inch drive allen wrench.
7. I removed the little heat shield on the exhaust manifold that the "Instructions" on the Forum said to bend a little to get one of the manifold bolts out. The shield is held on my two 12 MM nuts that are fairly accessable. The studs came out w/ their nuts.
8. By far the biggest pain was accessing the EGR cooler mounting nuts. There are three of them. 10 MM heads.
9. Do other maintenance activities while the car is off the ground w/ the pan off. I cleaned the snow screen (and this made easy access to the clutch bleeder for fluid flushing), flushed the brake system, checked the gear oil level, checked all the rubber boots, and rotated the tires and checked the brake pad thickness.
--Nate
Observations:
I do all the wrenching on my and my families cars and I consider myself profecient at it, but I would rate the removal and cleaning of the TDI manifold in terms of pain in the ass/difficulty of about 8 on a scale of 1 - 10, 10 being the hardest. This IS NOT an enjoyable job. It took me five hours, start to finish. The lack of clearance is the main culprit here. After doing this job, you can better believe I'm doing the EGR mod for Mom.
1. Put the car firmly on jack stands and remove the belly pan. Although may be possible to do the job from the top, you will invariablly drop tools and fastners that can not be retrieved with the pan on. I do think its necessary to go from underneath to access one of the three EGR cooler mounting bolts.
2. Replace all the gaskets to be safe. There are 3 metal EGR tube gaskets and one fiber one, an EGR valve-to-manifold O-ring, and the metal intake manifold gasket. They all were special order from the VW dealer and were about $30 for them all. Order them a week ahead of time to have them on hand.
3. There is a vacuum valve/device that is screwed to a little thin metal stepped plate. I unscrewed the metal mounting plate from the manifold, but broke the valve's plastic mounting tab because I thought this was a metal part. It was very brittle. This necessitated a plastic wire tie to secure it upon reassembly. This little valve has a hose running from it to the anti-shudder valve.
4. Be very careful prying off the anti-shudder valve arm from its pivot for the throttle plate. The arm is plastic and can break.
5. A bottle brush is indespensable, along w/ a gallon of kerosene and a can of "Gum Cutter" and an old long thin knife for cleaning out the intake.
6. I was able to access all the allen head screws using 5 and 6 MM standard allen wrenches and a 6 MM 3/8 inch drive allen wrench.
7. I removed the little heat shield on the exhaust manifold that the "Instructions" on the Forum said to bend a little to get one of the manifold bolts out. The shield is held on my two 12 MM nuts that are fairly accessable. The studs came out w/ their nuts.
8. By far the biggest pain was accessing the EGR cooler mounting nuts. There are three of them. 10 MM heads.
9. Do other maintenance activities while the car is off the ground w/ the pan off. I cleaned the snow screen (and this made easy access to the clutch bleeder for fluid flushing), flushed the brake system, checked the gear oil level, checked all the rubber boots, and rotated the tires and checked the brake pad thickness.
--Nate