Brm camshaft replacement tools

I am going to be replacing the camshaft and lobes and everything else that goes with it and was wondering what tools I am going to need and if there is somewhere I can rent them because I'm pretty sure autozone won't have them. Thanks in advance.

You're right. Autozone won't have them. They can be purchased HERE though.

There are a few folks that rent them but none are coming to mind. You might look in the "classifieds" forum for that.

Besides a torque wrench and some 12 point sockets are those tools from metalnerds link the only specialty tools I will need? I'm sorry if I sound paranoid but I am having someone do it that lives a few hours away and I want to make sure I have everything I need.

Yes, you may also need triple square drivers (crank pulley bolts IIRC, though they may be allen head), a 19mm 12 point socket for turning the engine over by hand, a T20 driver for the belly pan and inner fender liner, T30 for the rear belly pan and upper charge pipe mounting bolts, a transverse engine hanging frame to support the engine (though a floor jack can be used too) and definitely a quality torque wrench.

If you know exactly what you are doing you can get cam timing very close with the indexing tools. I always use VCDS to verify and fine tune timing though.

Also, my shop policy is to always inspect PD cams during TB service, perfect time to do it as they are a common failure point.

I would be weary of a mechanic that does not already have these tools, that would indicate a lack of experience with this specific job. Not to say there is not a first time for everyone. Just saying there is much to know and understand about this service. Yours in an interference engine and any mistake can cost you a top-end. Don't let anyone "wing it" even if they are an experienced mechanic. By-the-book is the way to go.

Good luck!

Member Frank06 includes specialty tool rental with his excellent cam kit. Is the route I went. You'll still need quality ZXN (triple square) sockets.

Does this Frank06 guy have a webpage yet?

Not that I'm aware of. Just PM him or call directly... great guy to work with and his kit guarantee is the best: 417-232-4634

For changing the camshaft on my brm do I need this tool? http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1425

No. The bolt is easy to remove with everything connected. Remove the cam with the pulley attached, then whack it with a mallet.

Unless you were doing 10 cams a week, that special tool would be a waste of money.

The only special tools I needed to change the cam and T/B were the $30 crank indexing tool and a letter size "A" drill bit for indexing the cam. With a little ingenuity, there is no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on special tools.

To remove the cam hub, get 2 longer cam sprocket bolts and figure out a lever that will sort of wedge between them to hold the cam from turning while you loosen the center bolt.

To remove the center hub, back the center bolt out several turns and just smack the backside of the hub with a brass drift. Comes right off. Leaving the bolt in place but loose keeps the hub from flying across the shop when the hub comes loose.

IMHO removing the cam center bolt and hub with the cam removed would be a lot tougher. With the cam in the car, at least it is safely supported. You just have to figure out how to keep it from turning when you break torque on the center bolt.

How would you suggest tightening the center bolt once the cam is installed in the car without the VW counter tool. Im working on a BRM motor and have the cam installed and everything torqued down. However im weary of tightening that bolt without the tool from keeping the pulley from moving. What if i tighten it after the belt is on?

Unfortunately there's no way (I can think of) around use of a counterhold tool. Fabricating your own isn't hard with scrap angle iron. Ideally, at least 18" length will allow one person to torque without damaging lifters.

MyAvocation said:

Not that I'm aware of. Just PM him or call directly... great guy to work with and his kit guarantee is the best: 417-232-4634

Click to expand...

Bump for a great guy: Frank06. I bought his camshaft kit and my car runs better than new!

05_R6 said:

How would you suggest tightening the center bolt once the cam is installed in the car without the VW counter tool. Im working on a BRM motor and have the cam installed and everything torqued down. However im weary of tightening that bolt without the tool from keeping the pulley from moving. What if i tighten it after the belt is on?

Click to expand...

To remove/install the cam hub center bolt, get 2 longer cam sprocket bolts and figure out a lever that will sort of wedge between them to hold the cam from turning while you loosen/tighten the center bolt. Much easier if the sprocket is not installed.

On mine, IIRC, I had some bolts that were the same pitch and diameter as the sprocket bolt and about 2 inches long. I threaded 2 in and used the hubcap end of an old long tire iron to keep the cam hub from turning. Worked great.

If you have the crankshaft turned 90 CCW as you look at it, all the pistons are half way down and well away from the valves. If fact, with the crank in that position, it is a good time to adjust the injectors because there is no possibility of valve to piston contact while you turn the cam.

After the injectors are adjusted, you would turn the cam to TDC and pin it, turn the crank CW back to TDC and pin it and then install the sprocket, T/B, roller and tensioner.

Got a garden rake in the shed that'll do. Just take a marker and scrawl "VAG-EIEIO" and you're good to go.

Try reading my post until you understand it. Most of the ideas I posted were from advice from Franko6.

Ol'Rattler said:

The only special tools I needed to change the cam and T/B were the $30 crank indexing tool and a letter size "A" drill bit for indexing the cam. With a little ingenuity, there is no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on special tools.

Click to expand...

Can you please specify what tools those are? The "$30 crank indexing tool" and "letter size "A" drill bit". Where did you buy them? What's the part number or something to identify them and look on eBay.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/2005-2006-brm-engine-timing-belt-replacement-vw-jetta-tdi-part-1/

Here it is...

The T10100 and the 3359.

shanate said:

Can you please specify what tools those are? The "$30 crank indexing tool" and "letter size "A" drill bit". Where did you buy them? What's the part number or something to identify them and look on eBay.

Click to expand...

Crank tool:
http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/8631eda86bd84a82aab201bd6f5deb44

Cam tool. you will have to cut some length off of the cutting end for it to fit between the cam and the fender:
https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=letter+a+drill+bit&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Re-read this thread and the especially the link JettaScuba posted until the procedure becomes clear in your head. The job in it's self is pretty straight forward but by the time you turn the key you have to know with 100% certainty you did it correctly.

From your PM. Any mechanic that says they can inspect a T/B for condition is an imbecile. When I changed my T/B at 8K miles past the recommended interval it looked pretty close to brand new. When you have a timing failure, what usually fails is the water pump, tensioner or the idler roller, not the belt.

Did my belt and cam about 7,000 miles ago with just the items stated. Easy to do if you read up on it and take it easy.

relumalutan said:

Bump for a great guy: Frank06. I bought his camshaft kit and my car runs better than new!

Click to expand...

@Frank06 is great! His guidance on which kit of his to go with, the why on his oil preferences, ordering, shipping AND answering the little questions that came up while doing the job SUPER fast, even in the evening.

I will recommend his improved shells, removal and install process and detailed instructions each and every time!