How to keep transmission cool during stop-n-go?

Summer is coming. Probably another hottest year in history.

So I think my auto tranmission stands a good chance at getting cooked during the 1 - 2 hour+ stop-n-go hell that is the Los Angeles freeway system. The stock transmission cooler is tiny and I'm guessing that's why so many 01M transmission go kaput so soon.

I'm looking for a solution that would allow the tranmission fluids to stay cool during stop-n-go. I've read a separate transmission oil cooler may not work as well as the stock oil/coolant exchange cooler. Plus, the car needs to be moving if a separate transmission oil cooler is air cooled.

Has anyone come across any good solutions?

Also, is there a good way to monitor the transmission fluid temperature? I only know the VCDS way.

Thanks.

Alex

The TCM monitors the ATF temps, and does certain things if it ever gets too hot. Which it never will. Unless the heat exchanger was somehow plugged up, and the only way that would happen is if the transmission's internals were coming apart in which case the transmission is on its way out anyway.

People seem to get really wound up over transmission temps, but overheating is hardly why the 01M is so crappy. It was largely designed and engineered by Renault, after all.

In stop and go traffic, especially with the diesels, there isn't a massive heat load if you are just creeping along. The lockup strategy is also much more aggressive on the diesels due to them having much more low end torque than some of the gas engines, so no need for the torque converter's multiplication which is where most of the heat would be generated anyway.

The Transporter version of this transmission, the 01P, which shares much of its internals, is used behind a 200+hp VR6 in a van that not only has a higher curb weight, but a much higher payload and towing capacity. They use the same basic heat exchanger, just slightly different pipe angles to allow for the layout of the cooling system's component connections. THOSE can benefit from additional cooling in some circumstances, but the court is still out on really how much improvement lower temps make on the actual longevity of the transmission. In other words, yes, you can do something to lower the ATF temps, but is it actually helping anything?

Plus, the addition of a cooler (an external cooler, which removes the factory heat exchanger) will slow the ATF getting UP to temp, which isn't good either, plus it places more load on the pump to have to move the fluid further and open up the possibility of a leak. Many Eurovans have lost transmissions from this exact thing happening.

But you can certainly buy the parts to add a cooler if you wish.

I'm experiencing TC lockup mechanical failures after long stop-n-go drives (1 - 2 hrs+) so I figured it's because it's overheating. The transmission shifts perfectly fine in the morning and for short drives.

If it's not the heat, what else could it be?

Valve body and/or torque converter is worn out.

I know the VB can be replaced. Can the torque converter be checked for wear?

I personally don't know a way. You can try emailing coolairvw and see if he knows a way. I know he says that something like 90% of the time it's worn spool valves in the valve body.

The manuals never have to worry about overheating.
Just saying it's a sure way to eliminate that "issue", even it it doesn't exist.

jettawreck said:

The manuals never have to worry about overheating.
Just saying it's a sure way to eliminate that "issue", even it it doesn't exist.

Click to expand...

Clutch in, clutch out - repeat for up to 2 hours in stop-and-go traffic. Ugh


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jettawreck said:

The manuals never have to worry about overheating.
Just saying it's a sure way to eliminate that "issue", even it it doesn't exist.

Click to expand...

it is tougher, and generally from overzealous aero mods, but even a transverse manual will get itself hot enough to turn the oil black and stinky

that said, I'm no fan of supplemental coolers on automatics, they all seem to leak eventually, and sometimes hoses just up and blow off or split after a few years of hot oil running through them
take the money you'd spend on the extra cooler, toss it in the glovebox and use it to change the fluid every 40k miles, pretty easy to end up with money left over when the car's dead for other reasons.

mr.loops said:

Clutch in, clutch out - repeat for up to 2 hours in stop-and-go traffic. Ugh

Click to expand...

I visit LA in my 5 speed ALH, and it can be a real hassle, but many times I can drastically reduce clutching by idling along in 1st gear, but there are still a lot of 1-2 shifts as well...

My left knee has been bugging me lately, not sure how much more clutching I want to do with it, if my knee is indeed getting worn out, I'd prefer to use up the last of it on my snowboard or bicycle...

jettawreck said:

The manuals never have to worry about overheating.
Just saying it's a sure way to eliminate that "issue", even it it doesn't exist.

Click to expand...

Also, when a manual is worn out at 400K miles, a manual is cheaper to replace.

I drive a manual in heavy Seattle traffic and never wished I had an auto trans.