need advice on first TDI purchase

So i am looking to buy my first VW TDI this week. i have come across 2 that i am looking at seriously but can't decide.

The first is a 2004 Jetta TDI with 248,000 miles manual transmission and the nicer package with the sunroof. The problem with that one is that it is a Salvage title, dealer says he has photos of damage before it was repaired and a list of things the repaired on it, but it is still a salvage.

the second is also a 2004 Jetta TDI, 220,000 miles on it, manual transmission, new clutch, hasn't had the timing belt changed in at least 65,000 miles and has a overboost problem that sends it into limp mode. The owner says sometimes it's after 20 minutes of driving and sometimes after 4+ hours of driving. he has no idea what is causing it but says he doesn't know much about working on vehicles and just has a mechanic do everything. But, it does have a clean title.

Both are asking $2,500 and as a newbie to the VW TDI I'm not sure which to buy. I need something as a daily driver and was wondering if any more experienced TDI owners had any input.

Are you mechanically handy at all? Is there a trusted mechanic from our list near you? If not I would not buy one. Some things like the timing belt need to be done by someone with experience doing these or yourself following instructions here and using all the correct parts. Not doing this correctly can ruin the engine. I would stay away from the salvage car unless you are qualified to assess the repairs were done correctly. Once salvage always salvage and it is a negative in the value of the car. Neither is worth $2500 to me. Salvage on one and TB and boost issue on the other. If you have a trusted mechanic or you can do the work I would pick #2 and have the TB changed and boost issue fixed. That will be at least $1k at least unless you do the work, then maybe $500 at least. Good luck! Owning one of these older cars can be expensive if you can't do the work yourself.

I'm very mechanically handy. Worked on small diesel engines, mostly on equipment like Boom lifts and skidsteers for a equipment rental company through high school then off and on since then, as well as doing all my own vehicle repairs and working part time at an auto shop off and on including rebuilding several automatic transmissions and full engine replacements. So the mechanical stuff is no problem and short of any machining would be doing all the work myself.

Salvage title wouldn’t scare me off, but agree on the price issues. 250,000 mile cars are money pits. Suspension bushings, shocks, brakes, wiring and electrical components, etc. etc. pick a price and make an offer, if they say no keep looking. They are all over between 800 and $1800, at least over here they are.

Car #2, without some history I am scared off by a salvage title. Of course car #2 may need some pricey repair, but you'll end up with a decent ride for many miles. Overboost, limp mode can be a lot of things.

yeah i managed to get more info from the guy with the salvage title car and don't think it would be the best choice unless he dropped the price to like $800-$1000...the car was totaled from hitting a deer which busted up the bumper, headlight and hood. In addition to that they didn't do ANY service on it so they don't even know last time the oil was changed let alone timing belt or anything like that.

so i think i'll go with #2 and offer like $1800. Not really a bad price since right now Gassers in this area are going for about as much for almost the same amount of mileage.

After that, the other car could be had for parts. Stick 6 100 dollar bills out to him and say “we both know no one is buying this car”. If he says no, move the bills closer and say “I will get this car out of here so you can put something in there you can make money off of “. And if necessary move it closer again and tell him “if I leave I spend this elsewhere so don’t expect me back. If he still says no then slap a couple times in the nose with the money and walk out. Now, go out and prosper and don’t take any ��

jcm1990 said:

The first is a 2004 Jetta TDI with 248,000 miles manual transmission and the nicer package with the sunroof. The problem with that one is that it is a Salvage title, dealer says he has photos of damage before it was repaired and a list of things the repaired on it, but it is still a salvage.

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salvage title is a concern, at least he lists repaired items, if thats all that was salvaged/repaired, who knows??

mileage for both it high(for a used car to buy), prices are kind of low. if working right they are nice cars. they can be a pain to fix right, and you never know the investment if its on a dealers lot, for one, or till you get into it. even then you cannt be sure.

The salvage title is not any concern if it's properly documented and repaired, which it sounds like it is. The hit doesn't sound structural and that can be verified. I suggest the issue to focus on there is market value.

The second car could have had the same hit but it wouldn't be on the record if it wasn't reported. You know it has problems and you don't know the cause of them. The second one's problems make it unsuitable for reliable daily driving until you spend unknowable amounts of money on it.

The first car requires no unknown amount of money on it. You take it to a guru in your area and do a full service, with will run somewhere around $2,000. Both cars need that done, but at least the first one doesn't require anything else.

But for $4-5000 you can buy a very nice, maintained ALH. For a few thousand more than that you can get into a common rail. One of the problems of not having experience with TDIs is not knowing the pitfalls of each era. The ALH is venerable engine, whereas the BEW has known cam issues that potential buyers need to be aware to check.

I appreciate all the advice and opinions I've received so far from this forum and found a new candidate to add. It has more miles at 301k but sounds well cared for. It is a jetta wagen, which isn't what i was looking for but not a deal breaker either. The owner is asking $3000 but I'm. Thinking more like $2-2500. This is from the ad.

"Great condition 2003 VW Jetta TDI, I have owned this car since 2012 when is had 145,000 miles. I have changed the oil with Liquimoly 5w40 religiously, I have also change the fuel filters religiously with VW filters from the dealership. New injectors at 280 k miles , just changed timing belt at 290 k miles, new alternator, new clutch at 290 k miles. New front brakes and rotors and glow plugs at 300 k miles. Runs perfectly and is up to date on all services. Runs perfectly! All services performed at Capps European in American Fork and can provide all service records"

Auto or stick? Great advice in post #7, if it was near here I would go look, for you of course

jmodge said:

Auto or stick? Great advice in post #7, if it was near here I would go look, for you of course

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All 3 of them are sticks...i wont buy an automatic car if i can possibly avoid it.

The ALH 5-speed wagon is very desirable, especially if the body is rust-free.

You may want to get your rear end over there and look it over good before someone reading your post beats you to it

My first choice would be the Wagon. More durable engine that's easier to maintain. The non salvage car with the limp mode issue will probably need a turbo. The actuator is probably failing, and it isn't available separate from the OE turbo. Also, any '04 or '05 MKIV is prone to cam wear, especially if it hasn't had timely oil changes with the correct oil. So right there you're looking at $1,200 or so in parts between the turbo and cam kit.

We have 4 ALH TDIs in our family and they're all dead reliable, even though two of them have about 380K miles on them. Sure, they need maintenance and things wear out, but if you keep up with them they just run and run.

I think that wagon should be your only option, not your third one.

That kind of listing indicates all the service was done and that the owner is probably a member here. The other two don't even know when the single most important service was last done on their vehicle...what does that tell you about the owner? Even if oil changes were done regularly, they weren't being done at $100 bucks a pop at the dealer (ignoring the problems with dealer service, it's at least better than some express lube).

I still have my ALH and I wouldn't sell it for $2500.

I too would vote for the 2003 wagon. Much cheaper and easier to maintain and sounds like it has been better cared for than the other two.

bizzle said:

The salvage title is not any concern if it's properly documented and repaired, which it sounds like it is. The hit doesn't sound structural and that can be verified.

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a salvage title should be a concern. one thing you say is sound and sounds. hey the guy is selling the car, so for one sound/sounds is good for his business. his documentation is his. you may find later what you ll have to invest. the frame structure is of course important, if theres no damage here, its a big plus.
we all dont have skills for fix-it and problem solving. nor the budget, time, or ability (or a place, like a garage, and stuff like tools etc) to keep up with problems that arise. its a salvage for one, it took a good hit, other service/maintenance may have been neglected.
your certainly more than likely to find out in several months or so what else will need to be addressed.

the wagon sounds interesting, mileage is somewhat high. sounds taken care of. if you want it, try to talk him down. & gl.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

My first choice would be the Wagon. More durable engine that's easier to maintain.

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nr.ibw, can i ask, what makes you say this engine is more durable. just like to know.

Better head, fuel delivery, and turbo, in my opinion. Garrett VNT-15s last longer than the B-W turbos, and the actuator is replaceable. No in tank pump for fuel delivery. Rotary pumps last well if you use good quality fuel and a lubricity additive (and they last pretty well even if you don't). Injectors are simple and more easily serviced. Cams last longer, and if they do need replacement are a fraction of the cost of a PD cam. Simple vacuum pump instead of the fuel-and-vacuum (tandem) pump on the PD. That's the main stuff. ALHs also generally get better FE than the PD engines.

BEWs aren't bad engines, not at all. I like them. I just like the ALH better.

2003 ALH Wagon with 5-spd is practically a unicorn, and this one sounds like it's been well-loved. Of the three, that's be my pick too.

i hadnt realized you were comparing PD and ALH engines. now i kno

Go the ALH! Listen to IBW, he's the man that runs the parts store.
Simpler motors, cheaper parts, you'll find the consensus here is that
it's the best of the VW diesels. And easier to fix, hell, even I can do
stuff on mine. If you can rebuild an auto tranny, I'm sure you'll manage.

Brief update...So the guy with the ALH Wagon decided he wasn't ready to part with it (who can blame him?) so i had pretty much decided to just hold off all together. Until i looked deeper.


I got pictures of the damage before it was repaired on the salvage title, not nearly as severe as i had thought. Then i pulled the carfax on it, lo and behold every service from it's first oil change at 5005 miles until its 240,000 mile service and oil change had been done and reported by the dealership. For the last 185,000 miles it has been serviced by the dealership about 15 miles from my house.


I called them up and got the service records from them including the last timing belt change about 70,000 miles ago. So i ended up buying it for $1,900 (pretty good price for around here) and couldn't be happier so far.



I appreciate all the advice and input i received so far on this forum and look forward to many years of TDI enjoyment.

Sorry to hear you didn't get the wagon, but it sounds like the one you did get is pretty good. welcome to the family!

Kind of amazed you were able to get the complete service history, nice bonus there. Did the service records on that timing belt change show all of what is considered around here the "full" parts set (belt, tensioner, stretch bolts, idlers, water pump, etc.)?

Rob Mayercik said:

Kind of amazed you were able to get the complete service history, nice bonus there. Did the service records on that timing belt change show all of what is considered around here the "full" parts set (belt, tensioner, stretch bolts, idlers, water pump, etc.)?

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Doesn't matter, it's due in 10K anyway. I'd suggest you pull the valve cover and look at the cam for wear. If it's showing wear you could replace the cam with the belt service.

Yes, especially since you just got it, inspect the cam and do the timing belt service complete. Rent or borrow the tools including VCDS.