No start

So I just returned from a trip to town with 3 stops during the run.
Got to my parents house and went in to feed their cat; 2 minutes at most.
Back in the car and now it won't start.
Half tank of fuel remaining, the in tank fuel pump runs, the starter cranks over fast but I get no fire.

What diagnostics should I follow.
I have VCDS and will go back and scan; what should I be looking for?

VCDS Scan

I don't know how to attach screen shots of the scan so I copied and pasted, what do you all think:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
Part No SW: 038 997 016 R HW: 028 101 114 6
Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000SG 0282
Revision: 12345678 Serial number: VWZ7Z0C8604271
Coding: 0150031
Shop #: WSC 66565 257 00032
VCID: 2D4FD2E3B7EBE92E0A-515A

1 Fault Found:
16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1449 /min
Torque: 136.0 Nm
Speed: 13.0 km/h
Load: 65.1 %
Voltage: 14.36 V
Bin. Bits: 00101000
(no units): 1586.0
(no units): 939.4

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 X

Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J5 920 906 Q
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V03
Coding: 05232
Shop #: WSC 00050
VCID: 3B6BECBB299F779E84-515A
WVWRR61J94W119322 VWZ7Z0C8604271

2 Faults Found:
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01304 - Radio
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 70F10B973059C4C661-50E6

1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 F
Component: Radio NP2 0016
Coding: 00401
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 235B34DBB12F2F5EAC-515A

1 Fault Found:
00878 - Connection to Speaker Front Left
44-10 - Short Circuit - Intermittent

dead in tank pump or ???

I pulled off the boost hose to see if the ASV had failed shut. It had not
Then I pulled the supply hose from the engine side of the fuel filter and turned the key to on and nothing came out, nor did I hear the in tank pump run.
I had heard it earlier when I first encountered this problem and was trying to start it.
Since I have owned the car, the pump sound has been intermittent at best but it has always started.
Should the pump run every time the key is turned on?
I also pulled the supply hose from the tank to the filter and cranked to see if any fuel would flow, it did not.
So, am I to assume that all this indicates a dead in tank pump, or is there more to check?

fuse or relay

Is there a fuse or a relay that controls the pump?
I want to eliminate everything else before I pull the pump.

Sometimes they can run without the pump. If there's a slight leakdown somewhere, it makes it a lot harder, though.

Very common for the pump itself to crap out, but just for ****s n grins, fuse 28 on the side of the dash, should be a 15A.

And the relay I don't recall what the production number is or its precise location, but the wire colors are as follows:

Thick blue wire to pin 2.
Small blue wire to pin 6.
Purple/white wire to pin 4.
Blue/Red wire to pin 8.

Matt-98AHU said:

Sometimes they can run without the pump. If there's a slight leakdown somewhere, it makes it a lot harder, though.
Very common for the pump itself to crap out, but just for ****s n grins, fuse 28 on the side of the dash, should be a 15A.
And the relay I don't recall what the production number is or its precise location, but the wire colors are as follows:
Thick blue wire to pin 2.
Small blue wire to pin 6.
Purple/white wire to pin 4.
Blue/Red wire to pin 8.

Click to expand...

Matt,
Thanks for the info.
The car does not run at all, just cranks
What connector do the wire colors refer to?

Find a sealed beam headlight. Disconnect the connector to the left front pump. Jump wires from the big wires on the ends of the connector to to light. Turn key on. Does the light come on brightly? If yes, install a new pump. If not troubleshooting the wireing.

The reason for the headlight is that this confirms integrity of both the power side and the ground side wiring. Which wire goes to which connector does not matter.

Since the lift pump is a high failure item, its probably just the pump, but this verifies the wiring just to be sure.

Thanks Whitedog

Could I use a DVM set to volts instead of a headlight?

whitedog said:

Find a sealed beam headlight. Disconnect the connector to the left front pump. Jump wires from the big wires on the ends of the connector to to light. Turn key on. Does the light come on brightly? If yes, install a new pump. If not troubleshooting the wireing.

The reason for the headlight is that this confirms integrity of both the power side and the ground side wiring. Which wire goes to which connector does not matter.

Since the lift pump is a high failure item, its probably just the pump, but this verifies the wiring just to be sure.

Click to expand...

The purpose of the headlight is to put a high load on the circuit which a DVOM won't do. This is the proper way to test the integrity of the circuit, but in all honesty, I don't know if I have read of any problems with that circuit, so a DVOM is probably sufficient.

Fixed

So, after an afternoon of futzing with the darn pump trying to disassemble it without breaking anything, I able to remove the old motor and install the new one.
Cycled the key a few times and it fired up.
And unlike the old motor, the new one runs for a second or so every time the key is cycled.

fruitcakesa said:

So, after an afternoon of futzing with the darn pump trying to disassemble it without breaking anything, I able to remove the old motor and install the new one.
Cycled the key a few times and it fired up.
And unlike the old motor, the new one runs for a second or so every time the key is cycled.

Click to expand...

That is great, a happy ending... cool.!