Soot? / accelerator turning knob? / correct ride hight?

Three questions somewhat different than Mickey's one:

1) I have lately been noticing some shutter during hard acceleration. The engine cuts out for a brief moment and then continues like nothing happened. It only happens rarely, but I first noticed this the last two weeks. Could it perhaps be that sootdeposits are being blown away or something similar?

2) I have again been turning on that little knob on top of the accelerator but still haven't found where it is that I am supposed to measure the resistance that is stated in my repair manual. Anyone with good ideas other than to run to the VW-dealer?

3) Since I have these new front & rear shocks I tend to find my car somewhat high when it comes to ride hight. It was lowered previously and I was used to seeing that, but my car looks high (atleast the front end) compared to other standard Mk3 Golfs. Anyone happen to have a figure concerning the vertical distance from the bottom of the front strut to the lowest point that the spring rests on? It should be somewhere in the range of 20-30 cm.

------------------
70-FR-TX
'94 Golf tdi 1Z
No more Eibach lowering springs
No more Bilstein front&rear
Currently Monroe SensaTrac shocks front & rear and stock springs.
Nice & smooth!!

[This message has been edited by feto (edited October 21, 2000).]

Turbosteve,

Were you serious with that method you described to get pistonrings unstuck using diesel/atf/plenty of oilfilters?

------------------
70-FR-TX
'94 Golf tdi 1Z
No more Eibach lowering springs
No more Bilstein front&rear
Currently Monroe SensaTrac shocks front & rear and stock springs.
Nice & smooth!!

feto:

Yes! I just did the same thing on a gasoline truck engine and it pures like a kitten now and has no sticking valves.

Did you first use some sort of engine flush like say Wynn's engine flush? How many filters were used in the whole proces of getting the rings freed?
How much ATF was used and did you just pour it into the crankcase or did you unscrew the glowplugs to get in right into the combustionchamber?
------------------
70-FR-TX
'94 Golf tdi 1Z
No more Eibach lowering springs
No more Bilstein front&rear
Currently Monroe SensaTrac shocks front & rear and stock springs.
Nice & smooth!!


[This message has been edited by feto (edited October 21, 2000).]

feto:

15 Step Cleaning (Anonymous) Process

Here's some info on what I did on my used gasoline-fueled truck I just purchased:

I used one AC oil filter for every flush and just poured the cleaners into the crankcase.

1) Drain old oil and install new filter.
2) Add (2) 16oz cans of engine flush and 3 quarts of el-cheapo $0.59 per quart 5W-30 dino oil.
3) Run engine at a high idle for 2 hours. Don't drive it or place it under a load.
4) Drained dirty oil and changed filter.
5) Added 2 quarts of ATF and 3 quarts of cheap dino oil.
6) Run engine at a high idle for another couple of hours.
7) Drain dirty contaminants and install new filter.
8) Added 2 1/2 quarts of diesel #2 and 2 1/2 quarts of cheap dino oil.
9) Run engine for a couple of hours.
10) Drain oil and change filter.
11) Add 5 quarts of cheap dino oil.
12) Run engine for an hour.
13) Change oil and filter.
14) Switch to AMSOIL Series 3000.
15) Plan on changing filter at 2,000 mile intervals with Series 3000 oil for a while. Then, every 5K.

Note - Since this was my personal used vehicle which I just purchased, I had the time and luxury of really cleaning the engine out pretty well. Normally, I would only run the engine for 20 - 30 minutes and take 1/2 of the steps above. Please don't think I do this type of service to everyone, unless they don't mind paying for it.

Engine now runs like new, definately has more power, is quieter, and should get better MPG.

Total cost of the 15 Step Cleaning (Anonymous) Process - $32.00, before the AMSOIL Series 3000.

Steve

P.S. I just installed a new cat, Walker Free-Flow Muffler, and new exhaust pipes on it too - all 2 1/2" ID. Ram Air System with a 5" ID hose is my next project. Shouldn't take too long to do either.