ejallison1
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2010
- Location
- Kansas, Illinois
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU, 97 Passat TDI AAZ, 04 Golf TDI PD, 01 NB TDI ALH
I know I am over analyzing this but I am pretty much a novice at wrenching. I just pulled the front crankshaft seal on my 98 Jetta TDI by removing the carrier. I am concerned whether I should use the newer style seal (teflon) that Frank speaks of or would it be all right to use the old type with the spring? I haven't examined the crankshaft closely to see if the metal spring has cut a groove in the shaft. Also a little concerned about how deep to place the new seal in the carrier since this thread explains that you don't want to place it exactly where the old one was sitting. Old one was even with the engine side of carrier. I am posting a few pictures for anyone else who has limited experience. Sometimes help to see a picture of what you're getting into.
Here is pic of the backside of timing belt cog on the crankshaft. It was a burger getting it off. Definetly using a new bolt to reattach, oil the threads and panhead, 66ft/lbs torque and then turn additional 90 degrees. Don't want that baby slipping.
Here is pic of carrier prior to removal. Note that the smooth side of the seal is pointing outward. Also the D shape mates with the D on the cog.
Another pic of carrier-note there are 20 bolts on the oil pan-two of them are well hidden by the trans housing. I am leaking oil someplace so am replacing all 3 seals on front of engine (crankshaft, camshaft and intermediate shaft seals), vlave cover gasket with new grommets and the oil pan gasket. Don't think oil pan gasket has ever been changed nor the crankshaft.
Since I was changing the oil pan gasket I elected to wedge some wood between the counterweights on the crankshaft and the engine block. I had to look up what a counterweight was so for that crowd I am posting the following pic. If I had the time to wait acouple of days I would have requested Franks set-up. Also liked the idea of using the counterholder that comes with the timing belt tools in a previous post on this thread-already had them but takes two people.
Tomorrow hopefully will start putting it all back together. Takes me a little while. Couldn't own this car without the info on this site. Much appreciated!!
Here is pic of the backside of timing belt cog on the crankshaft. It was a burger getting it off. Definetly using a new bolt to reattach, oil the threads and panhead, 66ft/lbs torque and then turn additional 90 degrees. Don't want that baby slipping.
Here is pic of carrier prior to removal. Note that the smooth side of the seal is pointing outward. Also the D shape mates with the D on the cog.
Another pic of carrier-note there are 20 bolts on the oil pan-two of them are well hidden by the trans housing. I am leaking oil someplace so am replacing all 3 seals on front of engine (crankshaft, camshaft and intermediate shaft seals), vlave cover gasket with new grommets and the oil pan gasket. Don't think oil pan gasket has ever been changed nor the crankshaft.
Since I was changing the oil pan gasket I elected to wedge some wood between the counterweights on the crankshaft and the engine block. I had to look up what a counterweight was so for that crowd I am posting the following pic. If I had the time to wait acouple of days I would have requested Franks set-up. Also liked the idea of using the counterholder that comes with the timing belt tools in a previous post on this thread-already had them but takes two people.
Tomorrow hopefully will start putting it all back together. Takes me a little while. Couldn't own this car without the info on this site. Much appreciated!!