How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

Did the side plug o-ring change!!!

No more leaking and NO MORE lousy diesel smell!!

I just have to adjust that idle thing through vag-com as soon as i get the usb cable.

Thank you all for the great advises!!

Did mine today. Used the video as a step by step guide. On my 1Z the IP was too close to the head to scribe the alignment marks, so I put them on the otherside. When I fired it up, it began to increase in rpms, so I shut it down and knocked the top of the IP toward the timing belt. This brought it down and it idled find. I set the IQ to 2.8-3.2 and no leaks.

Thanks for the great video.

Oh, my kit came with two o-ring gaskets. Any reason for that? THey seemed to be the same so I just picked one of them at random.

2nd seal is a back up. Congratulations.

Seems like I've had a handful of leaky pumps come through recently.

Having trouble adjusting IQ on vag-com
I got the cable from ebay...think that i installed drivers OK.
Connect it on cars/plug and using 409.1 i go to options and COM3 is working fine.
I go to Engine 01 and doesn't find the ECU...i'm i doing something wrong here???
Note that the bluw ebay plug goes in cars/plug with some force if that's normal?!?!?!?

I got this cable

vti-chris said:

Having trouble adjusting IQ on vag-com
I got the cable from ebay...think that i installed drivers OK.
Connect it on cars/plug and using 409.1 i go to options and COM3 is working fine.
I go to Engine 01 and doesn't find the ECU...i'm i doing something wrong here???
Note that the bluw ebay plug goes in cars/plug with some force if that's normal?!?!?!?

I got this cable

Click to expand...

The VCDS program is a free download because the license to run the program is in the cable that you buy from Ross-Tech. You need to buy the cable from Ross-Tech to get it to work.

Now what can you do with the useless cable you bought?

Throw it in the car for if you need to tie something down.

Put it in your tool box for those times when you run out of bungee cords and need to hold parts out of the way.

Take it to the Gym and use it as a head band.

A short leash for a cat.

Belt for your pants.

Buy another one and make suspenders.

I'm sure you can come up with other things.

Seriously, you can spend $250 to $350 for the genuine thing and you think that an $8 cable will do the same thing? Sorry.

vti-chris said:

Having trouble adjusting IQ on vag-com
I got the cable from ebay...think that i installed drivers OK.
Connect it on cars/plug and using 409.1 i go to options and COM3 is working fine.
I go to Engine 01 and doesn't find the ECU...i'm i doing something wrong here???
Note that the bluw ebay plug goes in cars/plug with some force if that's normal?!?!?!?

I got this cable

Click to expand...

The listing says "If you are not satisfied when you receive your item, please return it within 14 days for a replacement or money back. Please contact me before you return it."

That would be your best choice, in my opinion. Finding out the cable doesn't do what it claims to do counts as "not satisfied." However, since the listing is obviously committing fraud, you may not have much luck actually getting your money back. Please do everyone else a favor and report them to Ebay while you're at it.

vti-chris said:

Having trouble adjusting IQ on vag-com
I got the cable from ebay...think that i installed drivers OK.
Connect it on cars/plug and using 409.1 i go to options and COM3 is working fine.
I go to Engine 01 and doesn't find the ECU...i'm i doing something wrong here???
Note that the bluw ebay plug goes in cars/plug with some force if that's normal?!?!?!?

I got this cable

Click to expand...

There are many members on this forum that have VAGCOM/VCDS cables. I'm not sure where you live, but there is bound to be a member near you that will scan your car and help set your IQ. If you live near Delaware, I'll do it for you.

After a few trial and error playing with the software and cable i got it to work.
Wouldn't fit my dogs neck...even though i tried!!

Anyway it wasn't plug and play and it worked only once as the software crashes all the time on my notebook...Got the codes.

I posted them on another thread.

For those that have done this in car, how long did the job take? I have the symptoms and the seal kit on the way.

An hour if you have done it before.
Add 30min for first time.

what do you use to lube the gaskets with

http://www.fbs-online.com/Centre/Prod/Viton-chem-com-res.htm

I looked it up. We should be all set...so long as I can find my IP socket that I seem to have misplaced.

Abacus said:

http://www.fbs-online.com/Centre/Prod/Viton-chem-com-res.htm

I looked it up. We should be all set...so long as I can find my IP socket that I seem to have misplaced.

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A quick look through that link of chemicals and substances compatible with Viton shows that catsup is fine, but mustard isn't. I thought that rather funny for some reason.

Beer is also ok whew!

Amyl-acetate is not so I guess you can't use viton with a Hefe-Weizen beer and it's banana flavor from isoamyl acetate.

Did the top bottom and head on my IZ today. Must have watched the videos 10 times before I tried and I just wanted to say thanks a bundle for making them. My pump was leaking from all three places and making a huge mess. I will note that on my engine that pump is almost right against the engine and the bracket on the head end was no fun whatsoever, must have dropped that nut 20 times before getting it back on the bolt.

Although I don't have vag-com yet, I think I got it close to where it was. However it was loping at idle at first while cold. So I ran it down the highway to warm up, no change in throttle response or power and when I came back, it was idling smooth with no smoke. But when I started it up again after shutting it off, it was loping again between 900-1000 rpm. Is this an indicator of my IQ being too far off? Or is it just a startup thing? I don't remember it loping before the leaks started but it has been sitting for over a month while I waited for good weather to change the seals.

And even though I pulled my dipstick and that tube thing out, just like in the video, I still broke the stupid thing when I put it back in. It practically crumbled when I pushed it back into place. So just letting everyone know, be extra careful with it. I plan on finding a stout hose or perhaps metal replacement for it, cuz I'm not buying another plastic tube that's gonna break again lol.

I want to thank desielgeek, the makers of the video and tdiclud.com. I watched the entire video several times prior to replacing my seals and it was a snap. No problems, no issues. Perfect! Thanks a ton...

So which parts do I need from dieselgeek's website? Do I need both seal kits and the wrench? http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_s/1827.htm

Yes. You need the Bosch kit and the viton head seal as well as the top screw socket.

Thanks. I guess I should get that ordered...

also look here for the special socket to remove the head plug:

http://www.dieselgeek.com/24mm_tri_socket_for_TDI_injection_pump_p/pmp-24mmsocket.htm

That head plug seal comes in the bosch kit. Just match the size with the old one. New seal is black, the one in your pump now is red.

I would be alot poorer if it wasn't for you guys. I love this forum, its helped me fix SO many things on my car that would have cost big time dollars to have somebody else do. runonbeer, thanks so much for getting this out there for people to use. Thanks to dieselgeek.com for getting me all the parts and the special socket super quick. And thanks to all the members who answered sometimes silly questions about this or that over the years for me.

Hi all,
Great videos and great conversatino here. Makes it all so doable!
I now have a 96 Passat TDI; it's pump is leaking from the side by the injection lines, so it's clear that the head seal needs to be replaced.
This thread and the videos give me loads of confidence, and i am ready to order the parts and plunge into it.

But i have one concern:
On the dieselgeek site, it says: "Please note that the 1Z and AHU engines have shorter internal springs and are statistically more likely to allow parts to fall out of place during the head seal procedure."

The video makes clear that pulling the head is the single step most prone to catastrophic failure of the operation. I am able to work very slowly and carefully with it, but is it still possible that even taking every precaution to set the cam all the way out and pull the head slowly only as far as needed, that those internal parts could still slip in on the AHU pump?

Someone please reassure me!!
Thanks,
Barry

Just allow yourself to understand why it is important to compress the springs and what you are doing then you will know what you want to avoid.
There is undue paranoia surrounding this procedure. In my opinion, the ALH auto pumps are trickier than the 1Z pumps. I have never made any measurements but I suspect the seal boss sits slightly deeper on the auto pump.

Thanks, that helps a lot. I am now really ready to roll.

Does anybody know how one might be able to modify an existing toolbox socket to fit the top-plate tamper-proof triangular bolthead? Either here or on the other thread, someone said that he hates to buy $25 tool which he'll use only once, and i feel the same. There is a modification here of a 15/16th socket to fit the side plug, but i do not recall any tips for something for the triangular head.
Any ideas?

thanks Barry

I took a dremel and made a slot for a flat head screwdriver.
I put a tip on my hand drill...pressed on it hard on that sxrew so that it wouldn't sleep and off it went!!!!!!!!!

Then i bought a hex screw of the same length and thread size and everything works fine since my o-ring change...knock on wood!!!

I live in SE New Mexico. I need to have this done but would prefer to pay someone with more experience. Can anyone recommend someone in my area? Thanks

Tylerc said:

Can anyone recommend someone in my area? Thanks

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Check the trusted TDI mechanic list. It is stickied on this page.

Thanks for the advice jeffinstereo. I checked the list and the closest mechanic to me is in Sante Fe which is 213 miles away. Not a lot of diesel mechanics in SE New Mexico.

Tylerc said:

Thanks for the advice jeffinstereo. I checked the list and the closest mechanic to me is in Sante Fe which is 213 miles away. Not a lot of diesel mechanics in SE New Mexico.

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Post your note in the appropriate regional forum (Mountain/Southwest States), you may find a fellow member who can help out.

I've done this same task, it is not so difficult, just requires a leap of faith and scrupulously clean working conditions.

B100 said:

I've done this same task, it is not so difficult, just requires a leap of faith and scrupulously clean working conditions.

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and a T-30, and VCDS