Garage Floor Progress

Hey all, figured I'd start a new thread for the garage floor job.
It has been a long process - not the ideal thing to start when you have very limited time to spend doing it, but I think it'll be worth it in the end. I made mistakes along the way, and probably wouldn't be doing it at all if the concrete slab had been poured correctly and taken care of.
First of all, I started this project last fall, as the entrance to the garage had about a 1' x 6' or so area of damage, in some places the concrete failed and the area was badly checked not allowing for a good seal of the garage door. We were already noticing that on cold days the heat in our master bedroom was insufficient, which is directly above our garage. I figured the seal on the garage floor/door was important so decided to tackle it. I wish I had taken pictures of the floor before I started chiseling, but didn't think of it at the time. Here is what it looked like after I chiseled out the entrance:



Its hard to tell from this perspective, but I was aiming to make a small trough and at the time was planning to just repour regular cement to fix it. After talking to quite a few people, decided to use a cement patch which has an epoxy agent and is supposed to be much harder and bond well to the existing cement.
Looking back this still wasn't the right move though, I didn't know about epoxy at the time and there would have been no need to do all the chiseling that I did which took about 75% of the time of this entire project.

Here are some more pics of the floor, including some post-patch work.








Post Patch:






Only use this tool for chiseling concrete if you really hate yourself:
The proper tool was about $750 and much larger than this one - figured it was overkill.






Post Patch:










This is after I used the floor grinder:






This is what the difference looks like from before and after grinding:
You can see on the left the swirly scratch marks from the grinder - this is the result of one
pass from the grinder. It was terribly slow, I spent more than 12 hours essentially
wrestling a 400 lb machine across the floor countless times.







Time to quit for the night, end result so far:




I'll keep updating this as I go, am about 3/4 done the grinding - probably going to let it dry for a couple of days
and then do some finer patching as I have some small divots here and there.
I'll post more pics of the actual epoxy later this weekend or early next week.

2ManyKMfor1Tank said:

Looking back this still wasn't the right move though, I didn't know about epoxy at the time and there would have been no need to do all the chiseling that I did which took about 75% of the time of this entire project.

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Nice work! I'm curious why you would not have needed to chisel..

TheTDIWagonGuy said:

Nice work! I'm curious why you would not have needed to chisel..

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They sell an epoxy that you can inject into cracks - woulda saved me from some arthritis about 25 years from now and a whole lot of hours.

I tried the package you can get from Home Depot. Behr brand, didn't even last a year on a properly prepared floor, looking to remove and resurface mine, did you rent the floor "scruffer"? from where? nice job so far

After trying other brands of paint I dont know why anyone would want to use Behr anything. It's thin, uneven, streaky, and it isn't even close to the least expensive, the Sico store brand from Rona is much easier to apply and inexpensive. To say nothing of any other brand they sell, up to Benjamin Moore. The only thing Ive used that's in any way worse was Color Place from Walmart.

If you're a pro, you'll make good with it, but if not, it's very frustrating. Posts around the web say the same - so I don't feel too incomptent - and feel reassured that other brands are better choices.

How is the Canadian Tire package? It costs a pretty penny but promises to look good. I am curious also about regular garage/concrete paint for the garage.

Aaron, that floor looks much better than you described it. Looks like you're doing a good job so far, call me if you need any help. If you're using the Stonhard epoxy, I would recommend Devoe 379H as a top coat/sealer over the Stonhard, it's an aliphatic urethane enamel which will bind to the Stonhard and has UV stabilizing properties, just one coat of this will do.

Guys, don't waste your money on a "retail" product. Aaron is actually doing it right, ask him how much research he's done up till now. And don't expect to lay down an epoxy floor for $200, my cost alone on materials is in the $3-5/sq/ft and that excludes labor and prep.

He's using Stonhard which is pretty good, stands up to lift truck, robot, and forklift traffic for years. And to be honest, I don't think any of you can buy it off the shelf. For starters, you need/should prep the floor with a shot blaster and that alone will set you back $6-7K. I'm not dissing the retail products, I'm just saying don't expect it to last or be very resilient.

Another excellent product American Safety Products, it's killer but get ready for sticker shock.

If I get the time, I'll post a quick "how to" thread on how to prep, coat and seal your floor. This will be a "what you need" no frills garage floor coating. The most cost effective option for the DIYers here.

I run an industrial/commercial painting company so I'm not feeding you any BS.

A how to with better products than the lumber yard chains stock would be nice.

I'm just finishing up a foreclosure and took a pass on the mess including the old paint on the garage and basement floors.

After you paint cement you've created nothing but a maintenance problem. I looked into doing some epoxy stuff about 5 years ago when I had the floor poured in my 40x40 pole building but I has second thoughts about it wearing with floor jacks and such so I jsut put a sealer on it.

Of particular interest would be judgements on how rough the surface is best to be before you start and after properly prepped. I just ran into a situation with wood partitions so I was afraid to use any of the etching products.

je said:

After trying other brands of paint I dont know why anyone would want to use Behr anything.
How is the Canadian Tire package? It costs a pretty penny but promises to look good. I am curious also about regular garage/concrete paint for the garage.

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I did alot of reading and I don't think I would use any of the locally available products.
I did get a bit lucky and got the stonkote from a guy in Mississauga who's factory had used it and he was selling the leftover at a very good price.
Alphagarage.com has a product called wolverine, but there are now tons of products similar to it which are probably cheaper. The thing to go by when considering which one is best for you will be the weight of the product per gallon. I think most 100% solids epoxy coatings are in the ballpark of 19 lbs per gallon.
One of the great resources I used was garagejournal.com - great list of how to's and garage related projects.

volkswheels said:

I tried the package you can get from Home Depot. Behr brand, didn't even last a year on a properly prepared floor, looking to remove and resurface mine, did you rent the floor "scruffer"? from where? nice job so far

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I got the concrete grinder from CRS:
http://www.contractorsrentalsupply.ca/
I think it was $99 for a days rental. If you plan on doing using one of these, hire a young strong guy with a good back unless you want the 'thrill' of doing it yourself and the aches that come along with it.

Got a bit more done this weekend so far. I ended up having to etch the 4" around the edges of the garage, as the concrete grinder only went so close. Made a bit of a mistake by not rinsing the acid off soon enough and didn't have any baking soda/bleach to neutralize it. I did rinse it off, however, it must have still had strength as it did affect the floor - parts were much smoother than after I ground it. Decided heck with it today and went to CT and got some more acid and etched the whole floor - made a big difference, I was getting so worried about the epoxy not having enough surface area to bond properly.
A question for you Ram... I did attempt to neutralize it with Baking soda today, do you have any experience with this? One expert in the US says that 1 lb of baking soda in 5 gal. of water is enough. I used 2 kg in about 6 gal and I'm not sure it was enough. I rinsed the floor for what seemed like an hour though, and did use a broom to brush in the baking soda, just want to make sure I'm ready to lay it down on Monday or Tuesday as time just keeps flying by.

Thanks in advance.

Aaron

Aaron, I personally don't use acid to prep floors as I have a commercial blasting pot at my disposal, but sounds about right. Baking soda is cheap, much cheaper than having to go through this again. Think of it as cheap insurance. I think you'll be fine though as long as there isn't a reaction present. Make sure the concrete is cold to the touch, if it's warm, it may still be reacting.

You'll want the floor to completely dry out too before attempting to lay down any coating so maybe run a fan oscillating across the floor over night to completely dry it out.

Looks like you're doing great, can't wait to see the results.

Give me a call if you have any last minute concerns.

RC

Thanks again, I just read a great article (http://www.sealkrete.com/acid_etching_no_cne.htm) about etching and it seems I did everything right. Going to buy some litmus paper to test the Ph just incase though - for $.10 better safe than sorry.

Short update, I got the 2 coats of epoxy down night before last. Not looking too bad,
but certainly not perfect. Here are a few pics, have yet to put down the Urethane top coat
which will give it alot of shine and uv protection. Hardest thing was A) running out of decorative
paint chips and finding more the same colours...lol
B) Spreading the paint chips evenly
C) Learning that spreading the epoxy on the floor is best with a squeegee.

That is a nice looking floor. Congratulations. Looks like all your hard work paid off. Want to come & do mine .

that is stunning.

Nice work Aaron, looks awesome. Want a job?

Looks like all that hard work paid off!

Nice job!!! Almost inspires me to try the same thing - except that I see the hardest part of the job being getting all my junk out of the garage before starting the project... Mission Impossible...

Yuri

ymz said:

Nice job!!! Almost inspires me to try the same thing - except that I see the hardest part of the job being getting all my junk out of the garage before starting the project... Mission Impossible...

Yuri

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Thanks all for the nice comments, and to Ramiro for all the advice. That is one of the mistakes I made was not removing everything including the stairs and workbench, stuff hanging on the walls etc. Would have made spreading the paint chips much easier.

Lol so true!! Maybe this will motivate some.

Not to take away from all your hard work, but what are peoples thoughts on a roll down floor? I saw this stuff at Costco:

http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm

It looks soooo much easier to apply and practically zero prep. I was considering that as an option to save a bunch of time.

If only all our garages could look this tidy (and be that big):

A few more pics:

The Dent in the wall right of the door is the Wife's parking...

Wingnut said:

Not to take away from all your hard work, but what are peoples thoughts on a roll down floor? I saw this stuff at Costco:

http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm

It looks soooo much easier to apply and practically zero prep. I was considering that as an option to save a bunch of time.

If only all our garages could look this tidy (and be that big):

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Wow that does look nice, if I didn't have all the cracking/patching issues I would have done something like this.

2ManyKMfor1Tank said:

A few more pics:

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Is that pair of shears Epoxied into the floor???

2ManyKMfor1Tank said:

The Dent in the wall right of the door is the Wife's parking...

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Given her recent contribution to the family, I think she can be forgiven... Congratulations!!!

Yuri

2ManyKMfor1Tank said:

The Dent in the wall right of the door is the Wife's parking...

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That's what they all say Blame the wife

Silver02TDI said:

That's what they all say Blame the wife

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Well as an architect I would say blame the builder for the terrible plans and putting a friggin' 45 degree angled wall in your garage.

BTW the floor looks great. If I was to redo my floor which is unlikely since it is new, I would contact one of my epoxy suppliers like StonHard/StonCor and get it done professionally....and for the record it would cost a heck of alot more that what you did! We just finished a 100,000 sq.ft. of different types of epoxy floors in a bus facility and they are amazing....

I hope it holds up....

vw_leadfoot said:

I would contact one of my epoxy suppliers like StonHard/StonCor and get it done professionally....and for the record it would cost a heck of alot more that what you did!

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In all honestly, I think Stonhard is major overkill here. I know it's the "best" but it's like delivering a pizza with a front end loader, it's possible, but way overkill.
I've seen Stonhard take 10 years abuse in a raw zinc stock room where zinc bars would regularly fall from 20ft heights and not even mark the floor. The constant "stopping" of forklift forks loaded with skids of zinc bars as they come down to meet the ground. Our garage floors will never see such demanding environments, which is what it's engineered for.
There are other 100% solids epoxy coatings available at a much more affordable price, but Aaron was lucky enough to get a Champagne floor for Laker price.
If you can, why not?
On a side note, LSI floors has a line similar to Armstrong rubber floors at a much more reasonable price. It's very tough, kind on the knees, and made in Canada. I can also organize a group buy for around $5/sq/ft maybe less if I can score a batch of "mistints"
Again, double congratulations for you sir, fantastic job on the floor and even more rewarding arrival of little Evan, all the best bro!
Now sleep, because you won't for at least 8-10 weeks! These next 3-4 are going to be hell, but worth it!

since we are on the topic of floors and concrete does anyone have any reccomendations on what to put down for a cellar floor? I get water maybe 1 or 2wice every 3-5 years. I dont want carpet as its uncool when its wet also i think laminate will lift when wet. any ideas?

Antsrcool said:

since we are on the topic of floors and concrete does anyone have any reccomendations on what to put down for a cellar floor? I get water maybe 1 or 2wice every 3-5 years. I dont want carpet as its uncool when its wet also i think laminate will lift when wet. any ideas?

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Try something like this. http://www.fastflor.com/

Antsrcool said:

since we are on the topic of floors and concrete does anyone have any reccomendations on what to put down for a cellar floor? I get water maybe 1 or 2wice every 3-5 years. I dont want carpet as its uncool when its wet also i think laminate will lift when wet. any ideas?

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Spend the money to fix the water problem first!

ramdmc said:

In all honestly, I think Stonhard is major overkill here. I know it's the "best" but it's like delivering a pizza with a front end loader, it's possible, but way overkill.
I've seen Stonhard take 10 years abuse in a raw zinc stock room where zinc bars would regularly fall from 20ft heights and not even mark the floor. The constant "stopping" of forklift forks loaded with skids of zinc bars as they come down to meet the ground. Our garage floors will never see such demanding environments, which is what it's engineered for.
There are other 100% solids epoxy coatings available at a much more affordable price, but Aaron was lucky enough to get a Champagne floor for Laker price.
If you can, why not?
On a side note, LSI floors has a line similar to Armstrong rubber floors at a much more reasonable price. It's very tough, kind on the knees, and made in Canada. I can also organize a group buy for around $5/sq/ft maybe less if I can score a batch of "mistints"
Again, double congratulations for you sir, fantastic job on the floor and even more rewarding arrival of little Evan, all the best bro!
Now sleep, because you won't for at least 8-10 weeks! These next 3-4 are going to be hell, but worth it!

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Well said Ram....just letting all know about their options....I would likely go to a tile or rubber floor too....makes a lot of sense...I am lucky though that I heated my garage floor, put a 6" slope on it, so I never have water and crap sitting on it....the concrete is still in great shape...