CCM programming

So, I am fairly sure that my CCM is needing replacement. Fuses are good, wiring looks fine. My back hatch won't lock but randomly, the red LED light will only come back on when I pull Fuse 14 and lock doors, the interior lights will not come on when I try to pop the boot only after some time... and no beep when locking, yet when alarm button pressed it works. I have replaced OEM door locking module as well...Lots of oddities, too much to explain through one or more things. When I bought it, someone had unplugged one of the tan harness which also supports why it may be acting up.

There is plenty going around regarding software coding, and the general advice of needing to pull information from VCDS to recode the new device. But what are the steps?

1) How do I retrieve the coding from the old device?

From what I have researched the 2000 ALH Golf with manual windows does not have a central convenience module, rather a central locking module (35 - Cent. Locking for manual window cars). It has a black box with 3 connectors under the dash. I was able to pull the part #: 1C0 962 258 P 06 Zentr. V . I purchased a tested or running model second hand that was in a Golf similar to mine the same part #. I am attempting to swap it out.

2) I have VCDS-Lite 1.2 registered. Do I just enter the software code into the new module under the recoding area? Or is there more configuration needed? I would have thought it had more coding then a software code.

3) I have one key FOB. I assume it will either work or I have to add it?

Well first, you may not even need a CCM.

I would want to look for the obvious:

DTCs stored

Inputs and outputs

If you've done all that, and for whatever reason the CCM is not doing what it is supposed to be doing, then you can write down the existing soft coding of the CCM that is in the car now, then R&R it, put that same coding into the replacement, then you'll have to program the fob(s).

I think you have something else going on, however, but swapping a CCM is easy enough if you already have it just to see.

Is your car a GL (crank windows) or a GLS?

VCDS shows the following:

00953
01031

2) The hatch itself will unlock from the key fob or the door switch, but it will not lock, unless you pull the three wire connector out of the latch mechanism. Sometimes randomly I will find the hatch locked oddly enough on its own. The trunk light works and it does unlock from fob and door, so I know the microswitch and the motor work...when closing the light goes off and the ajar light on the dash goes off so I know the car sees it closed.

The security LED by random but has been off for weeks. BUT it will come back on when unplugging fuse 14 and locking the car again. (like a reset of the ccm?)

Things I have tried:
Replaced driver door module with new VW part
I repaired wiring and inspected while replacing door module to hinge area
Cleaned and replaced dirty or old fuses
I checked all wiring from the CCM module down through the kick plate
Inspected and patched wiring in hatch hinge areas, and to the rear C pillar
I ensured all the grounds are clean, the fuses (esp 6, 14 and 38 are in good condition, as well as the rest...) are good.
Tried cleaning all grounds and removing battery, while touching positive and negative leads together. Resetting battery will not produce a better result.

I have removed fuse 14, and when I do replace it, I hear the hatch actuator lock...this is the only time other than pulling the plug on the latch mechanism that the hatch locks. So the locks reset per say...

What I have observed:

I leave the car for perhaps 30-60 minutes, and the interior lights work randomly
The door chime works for headlights and keys in ignition, but no door ajar light... was working now off.
The gas tank door works
Tried opening closing doors with key fob/lock - same behavior - hatch will unlock with key fob (lock is broken for key - cannot test)

At this point the weirdness and randomness have me leaning to the CCM behaving up.

I looked at the measuring blocks in VCDS and it shows when the doors are opened and closed...its just super odd.

What does R&R stand for? So its just the soft code? No other items?

oilhammer said:

Well first, you may not even need a CCM.

I would want to look for the obvious:

DTCs stored

Inputs and outputs

If you've done all that, and for whatever reason the CCM is not doing what it is supposed to be doing, then you can write down the existing soft coding of the CCM that is in the car now, then R&R it, put that same coding into the replacement, then you'll have to program the fob(s).

I think you have something else going on, however, but swapping a CCM is easy enough if you already have it just to see.

Is your car a GL (crank windows) or a GLS?

Click to expand...

Oh, this is GL or manual windows.

What are the DTCs' descriptions? Sorry, I do not have all those memorized. I think one of them is the interior light time limit, which leads be to believe either the door has a bad switch or the ignition switch terminal is bad.

R&R means Remove and Replace.

The rear hatch actuator has a timer built into it, someone here has done some research on this I think. But cannot remember the details.

Correct, the interior light limit - unknown switch condition...as mentioned, I put in a brand new OEM door module from VW. i checked all bulbs, including the boot and the glove. All work.

I even put in a new dome light assembly.

The door indicates its open as I hear the chime when either the lights on or the ignition is entered. The interior lights also come on. The issue is more so, if I unlock the boot, the interior lights will stop working when I open the driver door or try to unlock by fob. No horn either when locking although (1) or enabled in VCDS. Horn works on alarm. Just real weird random oddities. The locks only lock when going over 10 mph. they are not time limited as they are supposed to be if not opening doors.

The second code relates to Central Locking Key Switch Drivers Side: Unlock - Implausible Signal...I checked the harness, but oddly enough...if I pull fuse 14 out and put it back in...the locks all lock, including the boot that never locks. The chime works, the lights come on, etc.

I also notice the door ajar light, comes on when I remove the fuse and put it back in along with the red security led, but it goes away...

oilhammer said:

What are the DTCs' descriptions? Sorry, I do not have all those memorized. I think one of them is the interior light time limit, which leads be to believe either the door has a bad switch or the ignition switch terminal is bad.
R&R means Remove and Replace.
The rear hatch actuator has a timer built into it, someone here has done some research on this I think. But cannot remember the details.

Click to expand...

Check your window motors and the card that controls them where the motor plugs into the harness. My wife's Beetle wouldn't lock the doors so I bought a new door lock module. Changed it and it didn't help and thought I/we would live with it. The passenger window stopped working and replaced the window motor and all of a sudden the doors started locking again. Check both for water intrusion.

TDI4MI said:

1) How do I retrieve the coding from the old device?

From what I have researched the 2000 ALH Golf with manual windows does not have a central convenience module, rather a central locking module (35 - Cent. Locking for manual window cars). It has a black box with 3 connectors under the dash. I was able to pull the part #: 1C0 962 258 P 06 Zentr. V . I purchased a tested or running model second hand that was in a Golf similar to mine the same part #. I am attempting to swap it out.

Click to expand...

So, does that mean yours is crank windows too? I'm a little confused...

What part number module was in your car originally and what part number is the replacement module?

Golfs are pretty notorious for breaking wires between the body and hatch that creates all kinds of issues. I've also had a few with badly corroded connections at the hatch's latch mechanism, causing weird issues because the CCM doesn't always see what position the latch is in.

VCDS has live data in the CCM/CLM that shows you how it's recognizing each door as far as open vs. closed, locked vs unlocked, key in door switch and all the buttons. Using that is an easy way to narrow down where the potential problem is.

Crank windows.

The part number as specified above is the same that I have to replace the ccm.

I repaired wiring already in the hatch and door areas. Checking Vcds all doors are reporting open/closed normally, and the hatch when it is forced to the closed or open position. So it seems like a ccm issue. I have checked the rest of the wiring, and the responses as above are shown in vcds.

joep1234 said:

Check your window motors and the card that controls them where the motor plugs into the harness. My wife's Beetle wouldn't lock the doors so I bought a new door lock module. Changed it and it didn't help and thought I/we would live with it. The passenger window stopped working and replaced the window motor and all of a sudden the doors started locking again. Check both for water intrusion.

Click to expand...

I have manual windows. Only central locking.

Does a GL have a separate "door module"? My GLS has a combination door module/window motor.
I too am having door lock problems.

JB05 said:

Does a GL have a separate "door module"? My GLS has a combination door module/window motor.
I too am having door lock problems.

Click to expand...

The front door has a door locking module as part of the latch. Separate from the window motor. Usually this is a problem in many cases. Get a VW oem part too

The lock module, part # 3B1 837 015 AS, has been replaced by me. It is a genuine part.

As a an update. I got to the root of a few things. I replaced the CCM with a same one that had the same software code... I got lucky. No re-coding necessary.

However the rear hatch locking, security light, horn beep when locking still didnt work.

I checked in VCDS and saw that the rear hatch was showing OPEN despite being locked. All other doors showed LOCKED, the interior lights come on when I open all doors, and the chime comes on, but the door ajar light is not coming on.

Once I moved the rear hatch mechanism to the fully locked position, the hatch actuator tried locking itself, and the car now beeps and the security light is flashing. This condition is repetitive after 15 times so far. I believe the issue is that the hatch is not auto locking nor locking when I lock the car.

One thing I also noticed is that when I put my key into the lock, (I rebuilding it when it was spinning with a kit), and turning it left, it tries to fight me and relock the door lock.

Any ideas?

The part number is only part of the equation. There's a more difficult to figure out "color code" at the end of the part number that often is NOT printed on the outside of the module.

As there were some Jettas and New Beetles with crank windows, but they use different trunk latch lock logic, they have different programming. They use the same base part number as the Golf central lock module, but there's an extra 3 digit code tacked onto the end of the part number. Sometimes they have a sticker on them that will show it, most do not, however.

We might be able to decipher the difference by looking at all the info in the first page on VCDS when you login to the central locking module, address 35.

Post a screenshot of that first screen, or copy/paste a log file of a scan of that module, get all the information we can about it, make sure you have the correct one for a Golf.

Or, maybe the latch is simply worn out and not tripping the microswitch when closed, but you are able to trip it when manually closing the latch yourself.

As for the odd lock behavior, there is live data to watch the key in the door switch position as well, see if you notice something odd about the recognition for that as well.

Matt, how does one find the live data for the locks using VCDS? I need to do this.

JB05 said:

Matt, how does one find the live data for the locks using VCDS? I need to do this.

Click to expand...

Depends on which exact central module you have. The address 35 central lock module is a bit different than the address 46 central convenience. And the address 46 central convenience modules got an update that changed how some of the live data is displayed and in which blocks mid way through 2002 (coinciding with the change in part numbers, 1J0/1J1 to 1C0/1C1 prefix, updated comfort data bus with a few more messages on it and comfort data bus wiring to the radio, which was updated from ISO connector to quadlock and the goofy, fragile Fakra antenna connector all at the same time).

All that overload of information aside, once you're logged in to either 35-Central Electrics or 46-Central Convenience (depending on how your car is equipped, 35 is for crank window cars, 46 is for power window cars) the live data is found in Meas Blocks - 08. You can just cycle through all the blocks there and generally figure it out easily enough.

Matt-98AHU said:

The part number is only part of the equation. There's a more difficult to figure out "color code" at the end of the part number that often is NOT printed on the outside of the module.

As there were some Jettas and New Beetles with crank windows, but they use different trunk latch lock logic, they have different programming. They use the same base part number as the Golf central lock module, but there's an extra 3 digit code tacked onto the end of the part number. Sometimes they have a sticker on them that will show it, most do not, however.

We might be able to decipher the difference by looking at all the info in the first page on VCDS when you login to the central locking module, address 35.

Post a screenshot of that first screen, or copy/paste a log file of a scan of that module, get all the information we can about it, make sure you have the correct one for a Golf.

Or, maybe the latch is simply worn out and not tripping the microswitch when closed, but you are able to trip it when manually closing the latch yourself.

As for the odd lock behavior, there is live data to watch the key in the door switch position as well, see if you notice something odd about the recognition for that as well.

Click to expand...

I will go out today and try to append a log to this thread of the exact dialog. Oddly enough, the back hatch and doors lock when the car goes over 10 MPH, but the auto locking that is supposed to happen (30 seconds) does not work, and the hatch stays unlocked. The light in the trunk compartment goes off and on, and the door ajar light also comes on the dash when open, so I know the microswitch is working to an extent.

As for the lock behavior, is there a way that it could be reversed when I put the cylinder kit back together?

One thing I have noticed is that my passenger door light is out, so I am checking that harness for breaks in the door area. Seeing if this is also a contributor.