mustangmarty
Veteran Member
Do 1996 B4’s have any kind of filtering screen in the A/C system?
You talking about the cabin air filter? I think all B4 cars got the cabin filter that's out under the rain tray cover on the passenger side.Do 1996 B4’s have any kind of filtering screen in the A/C system?
With all due respect, isn't nitrogen purge really for AC system where the brazing on copper leaves scale inside the tubing? Or are you talking about some other product that purges out impurities in the lines? The only time I've heard of that is for testing pressure in the system so that refrigerant isn't wasted.NO. Only a dryer, infact cars that DO have a internal screen, the upgrade is to buy a proper dryer filter and adapt the fittings. Screens often cause more problems then they solve in cases of failure vs protection. Remember that using nitrogen purge when installing a dryer filter is critical and is the #1 reason DIY jobs fail in a few years.
Your right but it’s for much more.With all due respect, isn't nitrogen purge really for AC system where the brazing on copper leaves scale inside the tubing? Or are you talking about some other product that purges out impurities in the lines? The only time I've heard of that is for testing pressure in the system so that refrigerant isn't wasted.
As for the filter adaptation sure, I doubt that it would hurt anything but if it really was necessary wouldn't the factory have installed a separate filter?
Steve A
Do 1996 B4’s have any kind of filtering screen in the A/C system?
what pressures do you have at what temps outside, supper cool supper heat values are huge in diagnosing how to correct refrigerant levels. Also do an acid test and for the love of god do not add anything to your system other than 134a, no leak stop or crap like that.
You need a base line. What pressures (from a real gauge set) and how is the acidity of the PAG oil? those things are EASY to test. You should also measure the temps of the hoses coming into and out of the compressor, condenser and dryer. If your pressures are too high and your temps are too low going into the compressor, your running liquid into the compressor. Spend $40 at Harbor Freight for a gauge set, and the $9.00 at R.E. Michael for an acid test and a $5 temp probe for your multimeter, NOT A LASER temp gun. Report back.
congrats on that, im sure there is much more penis measuring you can do against me, but thats 12 years+ my 7 years of education and journeyman years.No, Step A is find out what the actual complaint is, then find out if the compressor comes on.
12 years, that's cute. I probably have tools older than you, "dude".
It would not be the first time replacement parts were bad out the door, unfortunately. At this point since you have it out it certainly wouldn't hurt to swap in another new one if you can get one in reasonably short amount of time.Ok, I tried it with the m12x1.25 bolt and nut (m13 was too big) in place of the RCV. The AC finally started to cool a little bit. Not great, but at least something. But the fact that it cools somewhat with the bypass and not at all with the new RCV I installed leads me to believe that the new RCV in defective. Sound about right? Part number is EX10067c from UAC (Universal Ait Conditioning)