My AHU Corrado VNT GT1749va Turbo Build Thread

what is a sputter bearing?

G60ING said:

what is a sputter bearing?

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http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/C12570B3006C0D49/CurrentBaseLink/W26MAE7Q320STULEN

Why is a sputter bearing the right solution?

A sputter bearing is composed of a three-material composite bearing which has a bearing layer that is not applied galvanically but by means of cathode sputtering. This coating method works only in a high vacuum. Smallest particles are knocked from the sputter cathode and propelled onto the bearing surface by means of high voltage. The coating is fine-grained, finely dispersed and adheres extremely well to the substrate material. Due to the small grain size, the produced layers are extremely hard with high yield strength and outstanding wear properties.


Where are sputter bearings used?
For highly loaded bearings, the bearing couples consist always of a sputter bearing and a conventional three-material bearing. The sputter bearing is used at the higher load end and the softer three-material bearing is used opposite. For connecting rod bearings, the sputter bearing is therefore fitted in direction rod and the three-material bearing in direction bearing cap. For main bearings this is exactly the other way round. The sputter bearing is here used in the bearing cap and the three-material bearing in direction engine block.
How can you recognize a sputter bearing?
Considering how complex and complicated the coating process is and how impressive the performance, it is difficult to see the difference in the sputtered bearings. They look completely ordinary. To make it possible to recognize the sputtered half-bearings, the sputter bearings are marked with the identification ‘SPUTTER’. This ensures correct fitting, especially as the correct assembly position of the sputtered bearing shells is crucial for reliable working and the service life of the bearings.
Why are sputter bearings and three-material bearings always combined in pairs?


One of the reasons is the high production cost for the sputter coating. At the location with low load, they are not necessary and are therefore not fitted. The second reason is the extreme hardness of the sputter layer, which does not tolerate engine oil contaminations. However, the softer three-material bearing can embed dirt particles in its galvanized bearing layer and renders them therefore harmless.

Why sputter bearings from the expert?
As the world’s largest piston manufacturer and development partner of the automotive and engine industry, MAHLE is highly competent in research, testing and production of engine components.
Sputter bearings are also used in the following engines:
Audi/VW series TDI: 1.9 / 2.0 / 2.5 / 4.0 / 5.0 l
Audi petrol engines: 6.0 l (W12) / 1.8 l (225 hp)
MAN: D2865
Mercedes-Benz commercial vehicles: BR 400, BR 500, BR 900
Mercedes-Benz passenger vehicles: CDI-engines BR 600
PSA series HDI: 1.4 / 1.6 / 2.0 / 2.2 / 2.7 l



Sucks I've already installed my pan and rod bolts. Next time I'll go sputter. Thanks for the info

028105701J connecting rod bearing shell upper/lower / AEY,AAZ,1Z,AHU,ALE

028105701J connecting rod bearing shell lower / AFN

028105701H connecting rod bearing shell upper / AFN

That was really interesting - thanks for sharing that!

The funny thing is that they cost the exact same in vagcat as the ahu bearing shells 7.30 euro. I think when I order some spare parts from europe I'll get 4 halfs and save them for the future.

I'm just waiting on one IC hose to arrive tomorrow. If it doesn't get here I'll use one that I have sitting on the shelf. Its just that my turbo to IC pipe is a PITA to fit because the EGR valve needs to come off after I've pulled the IC to EGR pipe.

here are some updates from last weekend's work:


The other day I was searching for a green cap fuel cap as I've known some exist for other diesel vehicles stant's catalog and after finding stant 10830d's specs and comparing them to the VW cap specs for the 1998 jetta TDI decided to order one from rockauto and see if it fits since it was only $10 shipped

Stant 10830d
fits 2000 Chevrolet K3500 6.5L diesel


Shell Diameter: 2 57/64"
Height: 2 9/64"
Neck Diameter: 1 49/64"
CAM: Quick-on
Venting: Pressure-Vacuum (this is the only thing that I'm concerned about as the VW one is just vacuum)

Stant 10835
fits 1998 Jetta TDI


Shell Diameter: 2 25/32"
Height: 2 3/64"
Neck Diameter: 1 49/64"
CAM: not listed
Venting: Vacuum Only

The results:

Fits good:




This should fit on mk2, mk3 and corrados since my tank is a Corrado and I know the mk3 and tdi corrado caps are the same. I think Mk2 caps are the same as mk3s also.

I also just got my red I TDI badge and Turbo support and heat shield

I was a little surprise to get a foil style heat shield but it is what it is.

I got fed up of waiting for an intercooler hose today and assembled it with what I had and fired it up. I dialed in the IP timing and had the IQ adjusted as low as it will go at 4.8 without a hammer mod. I didn't take it out for a drive because I need to figure out why my tach and fuel gauge don't have power. I'll wait for the garage to cool off before tracking that down.

I hate adjusting my IP timing. I had it centered and it was so retarded that it was off the charts high(advanced). I finally figured that out and then was able to get it in the sweet spot (middle of the advanced portion of the chart). Here is where the timing finally ended up. I think next timing I mess with the timing I'll put the pump at the bottom half of the range since it is always set in the upper range of the movement. here is where it sits now:



here is the engine with the IC pipes. I made it difficult to assemble with one piece pipes because the only good place for a split in the pipe was to close to the side of the head for a joint. To install the turbo to IC pipe I have to pull the egr valve. My time playing with G60s causes me to hate IC pipe joints and having to always check for boost leaks.

The N75 and EGR valves are mounted under the rain tray on a mk4 mounting bracket.

Nice find on the fuel cap! I just did some cross-referencing, and found that it will also fit my Saturn TDI, so I will have to pick one up.

Nice job. Is that gauge EGT only? Do you have a PN for that heatsheild..I'm missing mine.

its boost and EGT


The cover is 038129969A and $25.62 at www.1stvwparts.com
the support is 028145535B and is $20.62

Is it one of these? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/200-2300-C-F-..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item35b291dfb5

it looks similar but I ordered mine from here: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=138&zenid=f22e643c70976229949d4bd09043d736

That thermocouple will need to be replaced as its range isn't correct.

I see now, very similar but not the same. I think I may take the risk on the chinese one, auber are either being copied by the chinese or using chinese units i would predict.

I bet they are getting their gauges from the same source. The prices are similar. I tell you one thing the gauge has so much functionality that it will take some reading and testing to get it setup and understand its functionality.

G60ING said:

I bet they are getting their gauges from the same source. The prices are similar. I tell you one thing the gauge has so much functionality that it will take some reading and testing to get it setup and understand its functionality.

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Put a "best offer" in on one, see how low they will go lol. I kindve like the industrialness of it in red.

I really like the cap too....gonna see if it will fit my tacoma!!

I test the car with a Mk3 VR6 Instrument cluster yesterday and the tach, speedo and fuel gauge all worked so it looks like my cluster will be shipped out on monday.

Due to the engine rebuild and what not I did a short cycle oil & filter change after having only idled for 20-30 minutes while adjusting the timing and then a short 10 minute drive this morning. The rings must be doing their job because the oil was not uber black like we are all used to after a typical oil change.

After swapping out a bad MAF the car. If I had to guess I'd say I have roughly 140whp and 250wtq. After I get my cluster repaired I'll try data loggin and getting it dialed in and then a vagcom butt dyno.

Thanks for pics and writing all this up, G60ING. I learn a lot from your threads.

I, too, will see how well that green cap work on the 27 yr. old Toyota - thanks for that tip.

GoPro video coming?

cumminsfromthecold said:

Thanks for pics and writing all this up, G60ING. I learn a lot from your threads.

I, too, will see how well that green cap work on the 27 yr. old Toyota - thanks for that tip.

GoPro video coming?

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looks like your truck is listed to fit...although mine is not listed in the "all vehicle usage catergory" the thread is the same and it should be in at the parts store today so I'll give it a try

I think GM (as well as most domestic and foreign) vehicles are the same across the board; I bought one of the green caps for my Saturn TDI, and it was the same physical size and thread. It looks pretty cool, too!

G60ING said:

After swapping out a bad MAF the car. If I had to guess I'd say I have roughly 140whp and 250wtq. After I get my cluster repaired I'll try data loggin and getting it dialed in and then a vagcom butt dyno.

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What is your state of tune right now?....what nozzles? 10mm pump?

jimbote said:

What is your state of tune right now?....what nozzles? 10mm pump?

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here are the engine specs:

• AHU Engine reringed
• AHU stock head rebuilt
• Stage 2 Colt Cam
• 130hp PD Intake manifold
• AFN Exhaust Manifold
• Gt1749va turbo stock from a b5.5 passat tdi
• Stock B4 AFN TDI downpipe with cat
• Exhaust is currently a Techtonics 2.25" cat back with borla muffler (I would like to upgrade to a 2.5" cat back exhaust next spring 2012)
• 2" IC plumbing
• stock restrictive Corrado Intercooler
• no lift pump
• stock 10mm AHU IP
• pp764 injectors balanced by franko6 when the head was rebuilt
• Chip from Malone Tuning (base file)
• Stock MAF

I will be data logging the car this weekend for Mark at Malone Tuning so he can send me some updated chips.

Man the old plastic parts are acting up. I had just prepped the car for its first long test drive after two local 10mile drives. I put the car all back together, washed it, charged the a/c and then with the family in the car I go to back out of the garage and BAM no reverse. The plastic shift linkage broke.

We had to get on our way to a friend's graduation party so we hopped into the CC but on the way home we swung by the dealer and bought a new shift linkage to tide me over until the billet one from Gruven arrives. The wife agreed that we should get the aftermarket metal one while its still available. http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=267&category_id=60

By 7pm we had the replacement part installed and headed back out for a family corrado trip to the beach for a cruise up the main drag and then stopped for some amusement park rides. The car held up well with the exception of a small amount of seapage from the #2 injector/hardline connection. Hopefully this just needs a little more tq.

The car had good power and I think it is ready for some long commuting for the next week, 220 miles a day.

I really dig the krinkle finish intercooler piping ....wish I gone that route...maybe next down time for the truck!!

Yeah I know the feeling on that. My first swap had Krinkle but on this swap the guy who did my pipes' welding said he could power coat them gloss black for free so I went that route. When I was putting this car back together I knew I could only do it while the car was down for the upgrade or I'd be stuck with some rattle can black until the depths of winter winter when i refuse to drive the car in the salt. The cool part was that the wife said do it. Its not very often she tells me to spend money to make a car part under the hood look better.


Today I drove the car for 110 miles in hwy commuting conditions in mid 70 degree temps with over cast and the air being pretty thick/damp. WHAT A BLAST. I just love how natural (OEM like) the tune feels. I've driven some tunes both Gasser and TDI that just felt way to aggressive(switch like power, on or off). This is powerful but yet at the same time smooth and doesn't feel like its causing harm to anything. THANK YOU Malone Tuning I plan to do some data logging since this is just a base tune but I tell you it feels so good I might get lazy and leave it alone.

G60ING said:

Today I drove the car for 110 miles in hwy commuting conditions in mid 70 degree temps with over cast and the air being pretty thick/damp. WHAT A BLAST. I just love how natural (OEM like) the tune feels. I've driven some tunes both Gasser and TDI that just felt way to aggressive(switch like power, on or off). This is powerful but yet at the same time smooth and doesn't feel like its causing harm to anything. THANK YOU Malone Tuning I plan to do some data logging since this is just a base tune but I tell you it feels so good I might get lazy and leave it alone.

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Same for my brother's car. I tried to get him to do some logs and he hasn't yet. Get yours done and maybe Malone can get an idea of what other tweaks can be done. Although there are no complaints so far and the car is tons of fun!

Nash_TDI said:

Same for my brother's car. I tried to get him to do some logs and he hasn't yet.

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Go kick his ass for me.