First Oil Change Experience (DIY)

I did it myself. My experience with the parts department at my local VW shop was not inspiring:

me: Need oil and filter for 2010 golf TDI
them: Okay, uh, lesee... synthetic oil. 5w40. got your VIN?
me: Yep, here it is (feeling positive at this point)
them: Okay, good thing I checked. I had the wrong filter.
me: Ohhhh....
[I get out to the car. Pull out the manual and double check the VW spec (507) of the oil. Look at the oil I bought. Nope. 505. Back in I go...]

me: Sold me the wrong oil. Needs to be 507.
them: Oh dear. Sec... Ah, you need the 5w30. (rummaging around in the back). Here it is!
other person: (yells from out of sight): Is this for a 2010?
them: Yes.
other person: No no no. It's gotta be the oil for a clean diesel. It's (long part number)
them: Okay!

[brings me the oil]

Bottom line: It's in a gold bottle. If it is not absolutely clear that it is for a clean diesel you probably have the wrong oil. Oh, and get 5 litres, at least they got that part right. It takes about 4.2 litres to do the change so the 5th bottle will probably do you for a few changes.

The oil filter is accessed from the engine bay (not from below). You have to pull off the cover (pull gently at all four corners of the cover, one corner at a time). It is front center-left of the engine (if you're sitting in the car). Standing in front of the car looking at the engine bay it is center-right. Large black cap. I could not find a wrench large enough for it (it is at least 24mm) so I used a large pair of pliers. This actually worked really well as the cap is not on very tight. I am going to try to find the right tool for this job, but I would do it again with pliers.

I was relieved to see that the oil filer I took out was identical to the one I was putting in. It has a crazy dense zig-zag pattern on it, unlike the vertical folds you typically find on a canister filter (like my 2005.5 passat TDI or my old 1994 Corrado). The old o-ring looked fine, but I replaced it with the new one anyway.

I put in 4 litres, took the car off the ramps, let it sit and checked the level. Near the bottom of the stick so added a little oil, ran the engine, then let it sit and checked it again. I had to do this twice before I got the oil exactly where I wanted it.

As for the oil that was in the car from the factory, I checked the level when I first got the car and then again before I did this change (@ 15,000kms) and as far as I could tell they were exactly the same. Happy happy.

One last note: I like to take the shroud off the bottom of the car and change the oil through the drain plug as that gives me a chance to inspect the bottom of the engine. Everything looked really good, but I did notice that the three rear screws for the shroud were very tight (at one point I was worried I was going to break one of them getting it off). When I put them back on I hit them first with a little WD-40 and they went on much better. There was enough screws involved that I'm pretty sure if you were getting this done at a dealership or service station that *someone* would eventually not bother putting them all back and you would end up with the shroud flapping madly as you drove down the highway like the woman in the 2010 golf I saw on the 407 the other day. If you get your oil changed somewhere at the very least check under your car to make sure they put all the screws back...

If you do not want to go through this hassel again and would like competitive pricing, use www.idparts.com. They sell oil change kits that have the correct oil, proper filter (OEM or non,) and o-rings to replace the filter cap one. Shipping is super quick too, especially if you live in the Northeast USA/Canada. You would be looking at around $62 USD for everything, and you'll know its the correct stuff!

How much did you end up paying?

Cheers!

JSWTDIPilot

canux said:

Bottom line: It's in a gold bottle. If it is not absolutely clear that it is for a clean diesel you probably have the wrong oil. Oh, and get 5 litres, at least they got that part right. It takes about 4.2 litres to do the change so the 5th bottle will probably do you for a few changes.

...I could not find a wrench large enough for it (it is at least 24mm) so I used a large pair of pliers. This actually worked really well as the cap is not on very tight. I am going to try to find the right tool for this job, but I would do it again with pliers.

I was relieved to see that the oil filer I took out was identical to the one I was putting in. It has a crazy dense zig-zag pattern on it, unlike the vertical folds you typically find on a canister filter (like my 2005.5 passat TDI or my old 1994 Corrado). The old o-ring looked fine, but I replaced it with the new one anyway.

I put in 4 litres, took the car off the ramps, let it sit and checked the level. Near the bottom of the stick so added a little oil, ran the engine, then let it sit and checked it again. I had to do this twice before I got the oil exactly where I wanted it.

Click to expand...

The oil they (dealer) should have sold you is Castrol SLX Professional LL03 5w30. It's the only VW 507 spec. oil they have. It only comes in liters and ***YOU ONLY NEED 4 (4.2 quarts) not 5***(Sorry, only applies to '09 CBEA). Buy a 32mm oil filter socket and maybe a T-hande w/ wobble joint.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2586837&postcount=19

If you put more than 4 liters in, I'd re-check the level. Run it for a bit, park level, shut it down, wait a couple minutes for drain back, then check. Should be close to the top of the cross-hatched area, but not over it.

Were the zig-zag pleats on the old filter showing any unusual expansions or did it look uniform like the new one?

canux said:

I could not find a wrench large enough for it (it is at least 24mm) so I used a large pair of pliers. This actually worked really well as the cap is not on very tight. I am going to try to find the right tool for this job, but I would do it again with pliers.

Click to expand...

The wrench you need is a 32mm. A "wobble" extension also helps.

Have Fun!

Don

There is a tech pub out from VW about this. The CBEA engine does indeed take 4 liters (4.2 quarts). The 2010 CJAA engine takes over 4 liters hence the need for the extra to top off. I have confirmed this on my engine 3 times now. I changed the oil myself at 5K and stood and watched the tech at the dealer do it a 10K and 20K. The CJAA (2010 engine) does take a little over 4 liters whereas the CBEA (2009 engine) only takes 4 even.

Doesn't VW in Canada offer free maintenance for the 1st 60k km, like they do in the US?

Difference Between the CBEA and the CJAA Engines.

skinnyb said:

There is a tech pub out from VW about this. The CBEA engine does indeed take 4 liters
(4.2 quarts). [Actually 4.3 liters or 4.5 guarts.]
The 2010 CJAA engine takes over 4 liters, hence the need for the extra to top [it] off.
I have confirmed this on my engine 3 times now. I changed the oil myself at 5K and
stood and watched the tech at the dealer do it a 10K and 20K.
The CJAA (2010 engine) does take a little over 4 liters whereas the CBEA
(2009 engine) only takes 4 [liters] even.

Click to expand...

According to my friend at the parts' department, the oil pans are different on the CJAA engines.
Why VW did this? Who 'nose' (He he)
This 'different' oil pan must account for the increased oil capacity. (Duh!)

I found out the hard way when, during my first oil change, the dealer only used four
containers (4 liters) and the tech did not even use all of the oil in each container,
so the oil level when warmed up only just barely showed on the dipstick.

It might always be a good idea IF you have your TDI done at the dealership
to 'pop the hood' and check your oil level yourself prior to leaving said dealership.
I drove mine over 100 miles before I checked it the next morning and discovered their error.
Took it back to my dealer and the service manager handed me another one liter container.
Didn't even offer to add a little to my crankcase for me. Thank you very much!

Sorry, but I will probably not be returning there for anything.
To me, it's the little things that really count and matter.

Another thing that I know of that happened there was that a brand new salesman was told
to drive a new TDI (a customers' car) to the Arco filling station nearby and fill it up.
This salesman did just that, EXCEPT he filled it with unleaded gasoline!
Then he drove it back to the agency! Don't know and never discovered what the dealer did
with that car, but we now know what gasoline can and does do to the HPFF, don't we?

Oh well. I'm only glad that I supervised mine from before delivery, even insisting on going
to the dealer where it was dealer-traded, and picking it up with this same salesman!
Am I anal?
I would say so, but it is after all, my JSW, and I wanted it right and correct from the beginning!

Make sure the proper amount of oil is added when you have yours changed,
especially IF you have the later CJAA engine (2010 and later).

Happy motoring.



D

Elfnmagik said:

Buy a 32mm oil filter socket and maybe a T-hande w/ wobble joint.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2586837&postcount=19

Were the zig-zag pleats on the old filter showing any unusual expansions or did it look uniform like the new one?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips on the socket size. I think your proposed setup looks pretty much perfect. I'm going to see what I can find nearby.

I didn't inspect the pleats very carefully, but I did not notice anything unusual about it when I took it out. I still have it so I will have a closer look at it today.

big_ole_truck said:

Doesn't VW in Canada offer free maintenance for the 1st 60k km, like they do in the US?

Click to expand...

Not that I know of. Of course there is always the question of what sort of deal "free" really is. At least I know when I do it myself what was done, and if I break it who to blame

How do you guys re-set the service interval on the trip computer? Does it give us a choice of when we want the next service interval to show up?

fastalan said:

How do you guys re-set the service interval on the trip computer? Does it give us a choice of when we want the next service interval to show up?

Click to expand...

Resetting the service reminder is easy:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=286382

Changing when the reminder is displayed requires VCDS (Vag-Com), but it can be done. Some dealers like to change it to 5000 miles, so they can milk more money out of you.

Have Fun!

Don

Just had my first oil change done too by the dealer. It was also a bit low. Had to buy an extra L of oil to top it off. Credit to the dealer, they handed me the right oil the first time

I would rather they underfill it than overfill it. a slightly underfilled engine is not nearly as bad as an overfill. It took me all of 5 seconds to top it off. Not a big deal....

Question for You .



Do Canadians get their first several oil changes and services done free
as part of their purchase of a new VWs as is done here in the US?

If so, the dealer should have properly filled your car when they did the change and
not have charged you for the added oil you needed to complete the job.

Yours does take 4.3 liters to properly fill it after a change.



D

We don't have the freebies in Canada

However, they only billed me for 4L of oil on the oil change, so it's fair that I paid for the extra litre. I have a feeling that if they charged me for 5L, then 5L would have ended up in my engine...better I just add it myself

Interesting

soundchk said:

We don't have the freebies in Canada

However, they only billed me for 4L of oil on the oil change, so it's fair that I paid for the extra
litre. I have a feeling that if they charged me for 5L, then 5L would have ended
up in my engine...better I just add it myself

Click to expand...

What you are saying does make good sense. Knowledgeable dealers here where the first
three services are included in the initial price of the vehicle (MSRP) usually add the
correct amount and give you what remains in that fifth one liter container.

How far are you from Kenora and the Lake of the Woods?



D

canux said:

I did it myself.

Click to expand...

When you filled the engine with new 507.00 oil, did you prime the oil pump and filter or just pour it all in up top thru the valve cover? It's important to ensure the oil pump and filter have oil to prevent oil starvation at startup. Another reason to DIY and avoid VW dealer service departments.

T_D_I_POWER shows how to do this in his excellent post in another thread:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2565102&postcount=5

Good luck.

I would try to buy buy the specific tool for the oil filter. I have seen "other people" or "quick lube" places that have used a large wrench or large pliers or whatever, and slip and start to cut up the filter housing and it makes it harder for people like me who do it the right way with the right tool to do my job correctly.

Also i would add 4.2-4.5qts of oil from the GOLD bottle if you are doing your own oil changes, and ALWAYS replace the seal on the filter housing and leave the tab/nipple on the filter seal pointing up. If you do not then the filter will leak and you with have a BP on your hands.

And yes the 3 screws in the back of the belly pan are SUPER tight because it is the first time the screws have been removed from the holes. Every time i get a 10K service in the screws are tight, they come out and go in very easy after that.

Reset service in your MFI on your steering wheel. if you dont then u will have to look it up for using the key and cluster method.