jhax's Built ALH into a MK2 Golf thread

Here is the diagram for an 03 that indicates the wire at Pin 24 does exist, see track 96. This diagram was uploaded by one of the members on the "ALH Pinout" thread. I looked at the ASV diagram given to me by MrDave which does not eve show pin 24 on the ECU. I am wondering if I do a reflash to ASV maps/software if I would lose that pin that already exists on the 03 ALH.

jhax said:

Here is the diagram for an 03 that indicates the wire at Pin 24 does exist, see track 96. This diagram was uploaded by one of the members on the "ALH Pinout" thread. I looked at the ASV diagram given to me by MrDave which does not eve show pin 24 on the ECU. I am wondering if I do a reflash to ASV maps/software if I would lose that pin that already exists on the 03 ALH.

Click to expand...

it seems on the 02/03 harnesses i've built that wire is not present although the diagram indicates it ... i add it anyway

Once I get my 03 harness unpacked Ill take a look at it. How do you go about adding the pin and wire to the ECU plug? It seems like the fork type pin removal tools would not work on depinning the pins from the ECU plug.

there are instructions somewhere on here for depinning the edc15 connectors... it requires partial disassembly of the connector ....i could explain it here but it would be alot of typing

Id, rather you not try to explain it as I am not prone to learning by reading. Ill take a look. Thank you.

jimbote made my swap harness from an 03 ALH Jetta harness. I believe he added a wire to pin 24 for the CEL. This works just dandy running the GN ECU software, as long as you use a transistor and reverse the behavior of the circuit as described here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=353083

On the other hand - a wire was also added to the old GP Pin (#40?), but it doesn't work with my software. I sniffed it with a multi-meter while cycling the ignition and trying different grounds etc and never saw any activity. I spliced a wire to the GP#1 hot wire and ran it to a 12V led. It behaves differently than the OEM GP light, in that any time the GPs get power it lights up. I think if it was lighting up something on the cluster it would annoy me, but my light is low on the dash and I can't see it unless I look down to specifically watch it.

Thank you for your input! What is GN ECU Software? So you are saying you spliced the wire that goes straight to the glow plug wire to get your light? I think since I am using a CE2 fuse box, that wire connection is made internally already. Check out track 60 and 67 here.

Gn software is the 03 ecu, Fd I think is 02, and the older models escape me at the moment, but it's on the tag on the outside of the ecu.

Correct, I just directly spliced a wire to one of gp harness wires, so anytime the plugs get juice my gp led lights up. This includes after cranking.

After more reading - it sounds like may have been able to use the gp wire from pin 40 on the ecu if I had wired it as a ground. I never checked that at the time. Jimbote had mentioned he wasn't sure if it would work so I didn't spend much time investigating before I just ran a wire straight from the source.

Truth be told, the coldest starts I've had (6000 ft elevation, 4f overnight low) I didn't even have it hooked up yet. Just count to 6 and let rip. It always fired right up.

that's interesting smelly .... i thought the issue might be with the CEL output, as per alchemist's tests, not the glow ... the only issue i see running a light directly from the glow plug harness is that the light will stay on much longer even after starting ... i guess not a big deal and as you say the glows don't do much until it's really really cold

Well that is good news, however, if I reflash to ASV maps, does that change the ECU pin allocation as well? MrDave said he had to change one pin for the glow plugs to work. If the ASV engine schematics show no indication of the utilization of pin 24 will the "new flashed software" effectively prevent anything happening with that specific pin (ie No Voltage) on the physical 03 American ALH ECU?

Also, I dont think I have heard any input on whether I can plug in the ECU pin 37 (power) wire to plug G2/4 (fused at position 15) in the CE2 fuse box?

If you're coming from a 2003 harness I think you would for sure need to shuffle some wires around - but if you're not going to use the newer style GP controller that originally came with the harness and run a pre-2002 harness you will need to make adjustments regardless of what software you run.

I don't think most folks on here are familiar enough with the ASV maps to say what all is needed. I do know Jfettig used a 2003 ALH harness on his passat and mentioned only swapping a few ECU pins to make it work without issue on 2001 ALH Software/ECU. That was using a pre-2002 dumb relay I think.

If it were me - I would stick with ALH software, the difference in "responsiveness" MrDave mentions seems more likely related to the tuning. If you're going to pay for a tune though, go with whatever your tuner of choice recommends. I have been thrilled with my tune from TDTuning - Mike was super responsive and whipped up a tune overnight that would have taken me months of tweaking to even get close to.

I think ECU power from the CE2 fuse box is fine as long as it's a source that isn't cut by the load reduction relay during cranking. ECU doesn't present a large amperage load, and I think you would actually want it fused with a small fuse to have any chance of protecting it in the event something went awry. ToddA1 would be the guy to weigh in on where a purist would source ECU power - dude is disturbingly detail oriented

Thank you for the reply. Offhand you mentioned "swapping a few ECU pins to make it work without issue on 2001 ALH Software/ECU," did he use the physical 2001 ECU or did he flash the SW from an "old" ecu and physically retain the "new" ecu? My aim is to retain the physical box and swap pins. I appreciate everyone's patience with me any my relentless quest for getting things right the first time.

The whole point of my attempt to "reflash" the ECU to an earlier date was so I could get rid of the CAN (mil, glow plug and tach). However, if these pins already exist (T121/40 glow plug, T121/27 tach, and T121/24 MIL) on the 03 harness AND ECU, then there is absolutely no point in doing what I'm trying to do.

Start reading here for the info from Jfettig's build, I don't recall the exact details:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=291294&page=30, but sounds like it was only moving a few ECU wires around.

You can use the same ECU and flash the GN (2003), FD (2002), or CP (2001) software, and probably whatever 2000's code is without issue (goes without saying you will need to disable the immobilizer on the ECU). Will start and run. You will have to match the GP harness you use to whatever software you choose.

Agreed that you could just stick with 03 harness and maps and achieve what you want.

Thanks for the link. I messaged jfettig and he is the second person to tell me that "rolling back the software" will be "a pain in the ass." Why go through all the trouble when I have everything I need set up already? Hey at least from all of this back and forth I gained some knowledge. Finally got around to unwrapping the engine from its protective cocoon of tape, towels and saran wrap. I recently moved and was waiting for the garage to clear up a bit. I got my injectors back from drivebywire and got around to putting them in.



I have cleaned off injector lines 3 and 4 and hope to clean off 1 and 2 sometime next week. Im going to get the same guy who welded up my turbo cold side to weld the race pipe on my intake manifold for simplicity sake. And I am still on the hunt for turbo oil feed and return lines.

Okay folks, be prepared for a very large photo. This is the 2003 Golf/Jetta TDI wiring harness adapted to the VW CE2 Electrical System (equipped on VWs from 1988-1999.5 in America)



Here are the receiving ends of the ECU wires at the CE2 fuse box




EDIT: From jimbote

121 ecm interface wire chart:
component ECU pin# wire color
CEL (MIL) input: 24 ws/bl
tachometer input: 27 gn/br
glowplug light: 40 bl/gn
vss output for cruise control (VSS input comes from sensor on top of trans): 20 bl/ws
k-line: 16 gr/ws (noted as W-line in diagrams, from ECU to immobilizer in cluster, then out of cluster to pin 7 on OBD2 port)
clutch cancel: 66 ws/ro
Brake Switch normally open: 32 ro/sw
Brake Switch normally closed: 65 ws/ge
"ECU wake up"
(key On/Start): 37 sw/li

This is only theoretical at this point. I have not actually plugged any wires in anywhere.

Cheers,
Justin

what are you using for an oil cooler? I am doing a similar swap and the factory one on both ALH motors I have will hit the front motor mount.

What front motor mount are you using? As far as I know all 1.9 VE an PD oil coolers don't have issues.

From G60ing "b4/mk3 tdi front motor mount bracket. The B4 ABA 2L 5spd front motor mount bracket is the same."

Yeah but your oil cooler is not factory ALH - after some research it looks to be a 3.6L one.

I am using a modified mk3 ABA front mount unless I come upon a B4 in the yard. Holes are the same but it needs some drill/tap and a bit of welding action.

My cooler is from a PD130. BHW I think.

CE2 Cruise Control Switch to ALH ECU via T10e (black plug).

I has been quite a while since I have updated the thread, and unfortunately this is not all that exciting. I have slowly been collecting suspension pieces for the MK3 suspension conversion with vr6 plus suspension components. I have since moved in with the woman I love and the golf now has a permanent home in it's own garage. I am 99% done collecting physical engine parts with only the oil feed (purchased today) and return lines. I have been working on the wiring harness mostly. I plan to do a wire hide and run the wires through the passenger side fender. I managed to get a hold of a relatively new Peloquin for about $645. I now have enough to either a) get the ECU tuned b) buy a clutch c) keep collecting small knick knacks (eg corrado VR6 airbox, intercooler piping, audi tt shift lever, etc), I want to get the car painted, however it seems like it will cost at least a few thousand to get done, so that will have to wait. But for now...

This is the engine wiring harness as it sits, I have added another T14a connector, I used an open barrel wire crimper and standard VW terminals.



Here is the diff I obtained from a lovely gentleman in Canada.



And here is my workspace. It's a bit small, but it's mine and I have beer an I have my car so I'm happy.

The golf waits patiently. Unwrapped the motor. I got the oil feed line but 3 feet was way too long. I need to have it cut. As well, I would like to try to figure out if I can get an oil feed line (4AN) to the fitting already on the turbo (vw proprietary? 3/8"ID and 1/2"OD) or if I have to get the 4AN to M10x1 fitting and thread it onto the CHRA.





The intake manifold is complete and the boost hose fitting has been inserted.



The wiring harness is finally complete, this is the engine side.



And the vehicle side...





Once I get the oil feed and return lines modified/made the LSD install is next.

Does anyone know the type of fitting on top of the turbo given the dimensions by chance? Also, I am looking for good quality wire loom, are there any suggestions as to which brand?

Thanks,
Justin

You said, and pictured, an AN-4 to M10x1 fitting. Unless you're referring to a different one?

Sorry Michael, the one that's pictured is the stock vw fitting that came on the turbo with 3/8" I'd x 1/2" od

On another note, my car is featured on a2 resource!



http://www.a2resource.com/colors/samples/LE1U.jpg

I was doing some general upkeep, measuring for my drain line, etc and I noticed the following plug underneath the vacuum pump on the head.



Does anyone know what it's plugging? Oil? Water?

I love the project! MK2's are awesome and even better with a TDI. That plug is for the oil galley in the cylinder head. I am using it for an oil pressure sender on my Vanagon.