Need Help!

Wagon

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
Location
Montana
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon BEW
I'll admit, I'm not great at digging through all of the information on this website so please forgive me if something has already been covered. However, there are a lot of moving parts in this story so I figure it's best to just get them all out there and see if anyone has been through something similar.

I bought a 2004 Jetta TDI BEW in July of last year. Within a month, I start having issues. At first, I started getting codes for the glow plugs. I checked them all and they seemed fine. Also, the guy I bought the car from told me that he had just installed a new harness and 4 new plugs. I didn't worry about it, too much, at the time.

Fast forward a few weeks and all of a sudden I'm in limp mode every time I'm driving it. I reviewed some of the items on here on the limp mode diagnosis page and nothing seemed to work.

Fast forward a few more weeks and I'm driving to work one day and the car starts shaking violently and nearly stalled. At that point, I took it into a shop.

It's also worth pointing out that it was incredibly hard to start and wouldn't start throughout the winter without a Frost Heater.

I get it to the shop and they immediately tell me it's the glow plugs. I wasn't buying it; but, I went ahead and had them changed under the agreement that they wouldn't charge me a nickel for labor and I'd supply the plugs. I had them do a transmission service on it because the shaking felt like it was transmission related.

I call for an update on the car and want to go pick it up and they tell me it won't start. I told them they'd need to plug it in for it to start and they said they'd had it plugged in for almost 24 hours and it still wouldn't start. Great. At least it started before I took it in there. I'm not really sure what they could have done to get it to no longer start; but, that's where we were.

I asked for their opinion and they said the lift pump in the fuel tank was shot. They wanted $450 for a new one and again I insisted that I'd supply the parts. I had a lift pump assembly expedited from ID Parts and they got that installed at the end of last week. I just spoke to the mechanic on the phone and he said he couldn't wait to show me the old lift pump so I could see how terrible it looked.

Now, before I start asking questions, I do want to point out that I'm not pointing fingers at the shop. They're a reputable facility and I trust them. However, I'm not in a position to keep throwing money at this and don't mind turning wrenches on my own, when I have the time.

A few things:

The mechanic mentioned that the lift pump was solid black and has no idea what was in the fuel that would have caused that. I bought the vehicle with 118,000 miles on it and have since put about 30,000 miles on it. I've only used ULSD from local filling stations. Is there an additive I can add with each tank of fuel to really clean out the lines? I ran Stanadyne in my diesel pickup truck with good results so I'm wondering if this community can recommend something for this vehicle.

He told me that the vehicle is still starting very poorly and he thinks it has something to do with compression, at this point. He told me a motor rebuild would probably be the only thing that could fix it now. Should I have them test the compression before I pick up my car so I know what I'm working with? He also said that it will start up just fine if it's warmed up/plugged in. Does that make sense that it'd be a compression issue if all you have to do is warm it up?

To recap - bad lift pump (solid black), new glow plugs, still starting really poorly. Apparently it isn't going into limp mode anymore and the mechanic is saying it was going into limp mode because the engine was starved for fuel because the lift pump was in the process of giving up the ghost.

I'm sure I've forgotten something and will add it when I remember. I'm just wondering if this makes a light bulb go off in someone's head and they've come across similar symptoms with an easier solution than a motor rebuild.

Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:

steve6

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Location
Beaverton, ON
TDI
2003 jetta tdi
The lift pump (or fuel starving) could have been causing some sporadic running issues for sure, did you change the fuel filter? No mention.


In terms of running and starting, check the CAM immediately. I doubt theres an internal engine issue itself, but having the compression checked wont hurt, the engine could have had a previously snapped timing belt or something unknown.

also have this checked 'torsion value' http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/c...lue-adjustment-on-vw-and-audi-pd-tdi-engines/
 

Wagon

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
Location
Montana
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon BEW
Reading some other threads and I see that there have been problems with the engine when someone changes a fuel filter and then turns the key several times to try and get the lift pump to prime the filter.

Since my lift pump was shot, is there any chance that when the shop tried to prime the filter (I'll ask them when I get there), the lift pump didn't send any fuel and the problems I'm hearing about now are a result of this?
 

steve6

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Location
Beaverton, ON
TDI
2003 jetta tdi
Reading some other threads and I see that there have been problems with the engine when someone changes a fuel filter and then turns the key several times to try and get the lift pump to prime the filter.

Since my lift pump was shot, is there any chance that when the shop tried to prime the filter (I'll ask them when I get there), the lift pump didn't send any fuel and the problems I'm hearing about now are a result of this?
Yup, probably why it didn't start after they did the glow plugs, you didn't say in your original post they changed the filter though, only glow plugs. They may have pulled some fuel lines off though and causes air to get into the system, and when this happens with a bad lift pump you get a no-start
 

belome

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Location
Mid MI
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5-speed
I get it to the shop and they immediately tell me it's the glow plugs. I wasn't buying it; but, I went ahead and had them changed under the agreement that they wouldn't charge me a nickel for labor and I'd supply the plugs.
If I was a shop owner I would have laughed in your face and told you to piss off!
 

Wagon

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
Location
Montana
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon BEW
If I was a shop owner I would have laughed in your face and told you to piss off!


Like I said, they're a good shop. Not everyone is a jackass. They and I both know how quick and easy it is to change glow plugs. I would have gladly changed them in the parking lot if they wouldn't have agreed to it. I'm sure they more than made up for it in other places. But, thanks for your input.
 
Last edited:

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Reading some other threads and I see that there have been problems with the engine when someone changes a fuel filter and then turns the key several times to try and get the lift pump to prime the filter.

Since my lift pump was shot, is there any chance that when the shop tried to prime the filter (I'll ask them when I get there), the lift pump didn't send any fuel and the problems I'm hearing about now are a result of this?
It's my understanding that our TDI's are not a self priming system, as in they won't bleed out any air just by bumping the key (unlike my Cummins, which is self priming). It's very critical to get as much air out of there as you can after a fuel filter change. When I did my filter, I used a mighty-vac to get as much out as possible. I couldn't get 100% out as you still need to connect the lines back and you will lose a bit of fuel, but small bubbles are ok. It's the large pockets that you want to avoid.

I've been thinking of putting a check valve in place just for this reason...if I need to prime I can open the flow and pull vac on a separate port, pull all the air out, then close the valve back to the main flow path). Doing it this way wouldn't require you to disconnect the hoses and it would give the best bleed possible.

I know these injectors aren't as prone to failure as the diesel trucks are, but have you had your injectors flow tested at all? Are you getting any white smoke or anything while you're trying to cold start the car, excessive cranking, etc?

As far as running cleaner through there I don't think that will do anything to help your issue.
 

Wagon

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
Location
Montana
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon BEW
It's my understanding that our TDI's are not a self priming system, as in they won't bleed out any air just by bumping the key (unlike my Cummins, which is self priming). It's very critical to get as much air out of there as you can after a fuel filter change. When I did my filter, I used a mighty-vac to get as much out as possible. I couldn't get 100% out as you still need to connect the lines back and you will lose a bit of fuel, but small bubbles are ok. It's the large pockets that you want to avoid.
I've been thinking of putting a check valve in place just for this reason...if I need to prime I can open the flow and pull vac on a separate port, pull all the air out, then close the valve back to the main flow path). Doing it this way wouldn't require you to disconnect the hoses and it would give the best bleed possible.
I know these injectors aren't as prone to failure as the diesel trucks are, but have you had your injectors flow tested at all? Are you getting any white smoke or anything while you're trying to cold start the car, excessive cranking, etc?
As far as running cleaner through there I don't think that will do anything to help your issue.


There was definitely some white smoke and excessive cranking when I'd start it prior to putting the Frost Heater on it. I haven't had the injectors tested.

As for the fuel additive, I was wondering mainly about the comment the mechanic made when he said he'd never seen a tank/lift pump that was as black as mine and how bad of shape the lift pump was in.
 

steve6

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Location
Beaverton, ON
TDI
2003 jetta tdi
It's my understanding that our TDI's are not a self priming system, as in they won't bleed out any air just by bumping the key (unlike my Cummins, which is self priming). It's very critical to get as much air out of there as you can after a fuel filter change. When I did my filter, I used a mighty-vac to get as much out as possible. I couldn't get 100% out as you still need to connect the lines back and you will lose a bit of fuel, but small bubbles are ok. It's the large pockets that you want to avoid.
.
Your 2002 is different than Wagon's 2004. ALH vs BEW
 

belome

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Location
Mid MI
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5-speed
You do realize that there are three different version of Glow Plugs for your car depending on what version of the software the car is running right?
 

Wagon

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
Location
Montana
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon BEW
Thanks for the link! I’m really hoping the first 118,000 miles were neglected and I can do something like this to clean it up. I’m afraid it’s gonna be a little more difficult, though.

I’ll definitely try it, though.
 
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