Help! Exhaust Manifold Stud

R

RikAmirnov

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Oct 26, 2012
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98 Käfer
Hello,

The top of this stud is a little bit damaged enough that you cant get a nut on...

Question is there a replacement and what is the best way to remove it ?
 
Seatman

Seatman

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Take it out with vice grips and just fit a regular m8 bolt instead.
 
jettaboosttdi

jettaboosttdi

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brantford ontario
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could always try and run a die down it, or lock vice grips on it like said above, and either buy a new stud or just use a regular bolt.
 
R

RikAmirnov

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Seatman said:
Take it out with vice grips and just fit a regular m8 bolt instead.
Click to expand...
Technique on Vice grip method ? ( This is the method i used to remove the nut which damaged the stud)

What about stud puller/removal socket ?


M8 BOLT from hardware store , fine or course thread ?
 
T

tongsli

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better spray some PB blaster or liquid wrench before you try to pull the stud. Do you have a tap and die set?

Are you putting the EGR connection pipe back or blocking it off?
 
R

RikAmirnov

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Cooler is removed and never going back , is there any other purpose for that exhaust manifold outlet ?

Ive been spraying with pb blaster since i started remove intake manifold egr , cooler , turbo etc

Im not sure if the picture is detailed enough... Would a die be suitable ?

The stud has gotten abuse from a hanmer, hacsaw , vice-grips .


The only thing i have access to is this stud removal tool everything else would have to purchase


"Pull it out and take it with you" - seatmean

Do you mean grip with VG and turn ? And than replace with regular m8 bolt ?
 
Seatman

Seatman

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2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
Yes I do indeed! Take the knackered stud to the shop then you can match the thread with a regular bolt to put back in, just make sure it's not to long.

And don't be so rough next time :rolleyes:
 
S

Ski in NC

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Try running a die down it first. Be careful to keep the die from tilting off axis. Threads then won't be perfect, but nut will do the job. If that fails, vice-grip it out.
 
R

RikAmirnov

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DIE = FAIL
VICE GRIPS= I think it made it worse,

Is the opening going to leak if i only have one side down ?

Whats my next course of action ?
 
Seatman

Seatman

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Heat, soak and brute force, what about that tool you were on about you have?
 
T

tongsli

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2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD
Do you have a block off plate? I don't think you need the entire stud to block it off, do you? Maybe you could just cut off the buggered up part of the stud?

Yes, it will leak with only one bolt.
 
R

RikAmirnov

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Yes I have a block off plate and imo there wouldnt be enough thread for the nut ,


Die failed because look at the photo... one side on the stud is cut (top)
 
R

RikAmirnov

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This is my next course of action...


Cut a slit into the top of the stud and use a flathead to get it out ? Opinions ?
 
S

Ski in NC

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If you can run the die down the stud, even if threads are imperfect, the nut should have enough grip to hold down a block off plate. Not sure what is meant by "one side of stud is cut.." Do you mean the flat spot? Should be ok with that.

If you want/need to get it out, heat it red hot with torch, let cool a bit, squirt with your favorite flavor of liquid let-go, let soak, heat again, rinse and repeat. Then grab with vice grips and start wiggling CW and CCW. Eventually it should start to move.
 
R

RikAmirnov

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Ski in NC said:
If you can run the die down the stud, even if threads are imperfect, the nut should have enough grip to hold down a block off plate. Not sure what is meant by "one side of stud is cut.." Do you mean the flat spot? Should be ok with that.

If you want/need to get it out, heat it red hot with torch, let cool a bit, squirt with your favorite flavor of liquid let-go, let soak, heat again, rinse and repeat. Then grab with vice grips and start wiggling CW and CCW. Eventually it should start to move.
Click to expand...



tried your method , yes stud move broke in half ( half of what was stick out ) now half the size...


Any other suggestions ? What about JB WELD the block off plate ?
 
Seatman

Seatman

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Grind it flat, drill it and tap it, if you're fitting a blanking plate it wont matter if the hole is bang on as you can alter the blanking plate bolt hole anyway. I'd only be concerned if you were refitting the egr pipe but you're not so just bang on man.
 
R

RikAmirnov

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drilled it out, tapped the threads, fit the OEM Stud in ( purchased from dealer)


Next time I heat the stud first while the nut is on
 
G

Genesis

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Yeah, it'll leak.

And that manifold is cast iron -- as are most. If you break off the stud you're in a world of hurt. Trust me on this one -- I've had that happen with a hot pipe on a Detroit Diesel (same deal except the studs in that case were to mount the turbo on it) and drilling out the stud is a hit-or-miss deal, with "miss" meaning a new hotpipe (in this case manifold + turbo) as the cast iron can crack and if it does you're done.

Use lots of PB Blaster and heat. Spray it liberally, wait, spray it more, wait more, spray it again and use heat (bubble it up good), etc. If you're lucky it'll come out and you can either replace it with a new stud or through-bolt it. If you're unlucky it'll break off and then you get to try to drill it out, which has a high probability of not ending well.
 
G

Genesis

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Yeah, well, it is what it is.

If you DO break the stud and can't get a grip on what's left the best option is to grind it flat and flush VERY CAREFULLY (so as not to damage the cast iron), then try to drill it. It's a very tricky operation. Sometimes it goes ok, other times not.
 
1

1.9glstdi

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J-vill,FL
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2005 passat waggon BHW PD
Do you have a welder? Take a nut that you can just set on the stud and fill weld it on the stud. Then back it off like a bolt.

Another idea get a bottoming tap and tap the manifold and use a plumming plug n the newly tapped hole. Thats what I did. I was not goin to remove turbo with 180xxx miles lol
 
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