Amsoil In this Thread only
- Thread starter BKmetz
- Start date
streeker02
Veteran Member
I appreciate the input. I worry about too much about cold starts to run 10wxx anything, regularly -10c or colder here this winter.
bluesmoker
Veteran Member
even the 15/40 ame would be ok, it has a pour point of -44 F, so -10 C would not be a problem
Bob_Fout
Oil Wanker
The 10w properties are determined at -25C. You could use Amsoil DEO 5w40, also.
The PAO (Group 4) based, 10w-40 actually has a pour point about 9F Lower than the largely Group 3 based, full "SAPS", 5w-40. (-47F vs -38F). You'd have to be starting the vehicle in temps well below 0F before you'd notice any potential difference in cold weather performance.
As Bob mentioned, the DEO, 5w-40 is proven to work very well in this application also. It's PAO based, with a PP of -51F.
TS
As Bob mentioned, the DEO, 5w-40 is proven to work very well in this application also. It's PAO based, with a PP of -51F.
TS
We are all done with Amsoil products.
After being a "Distributor" for over 10 years, the Amsoil company has screwed us over nickel and dime BS, for the last time.
Off to Purolator filters and Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart.
We and our customers who have bought through us are through with the Amsoil and Duluth arrogance: close to a dozen motorcycle and car households combined. Feels like a loss of a ton o bricks.
After being a "Distributor" for over 10 years, the Amsoil company has screwed us over nickel and dime BS, for the last time.
Off to Purolator filters and Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart.
We and our customers who have bought through us are through with the Amsoil and Duluth arrogance: close to a dozen motorcycle and car households combined. Feels like a loss of a ton o bricks.
Bob_Fout
Oil Wanker
Details please!We are all done with Amsoil products.
After being a "Distributor" for over 10 years, the Amsoil company has screwed us over nickel and dime BS, for the last time.
Off to Purolator filters and Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart.
We and our customers who have bought through us are through with the Amsoil and Duluth arrogance: close to a dozen motorcycle and car households combined. Feels like a loss of a ton o bricks.
fnj2
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 1999
- Location
- Wellfleet, Massachusetts, USA
Mobil 1 TDT (only) is fine, but anyone choosing to sell purolator filters for a fine piece of machinery like a TDI engine will never get my business - nothing personal.
WutGas?
Veteran Member
Aren't Purolator filters made by Mann-Hummel?
Economy: Amsoil forgot there was an economic recession and they might have to adjust their pricing, and turn up the customer service quality. They have done neither. I take that back: they have increased oil prices and shipping costs, and their Customer No-Service recruiting has been bottom o the barrel.
Mobil 1 and Wal-Mart have done both to the customers' advantage: 5 qts of synthetic for $27, no membership $$ required, etc..
Yes, I am a student for life, and the "grain of salt" comment is indicative of the Amsoil corporate attitude today. YMMV.
DPM
Top Post Dawg
why would they need to adjust pricing because of the economy? Too dear? Buy something cheaper. Simples.
Cheezy,
I'm not having any issues selling oil in this climate. In fact, I find people more receptive to the idea of extending service intervals these days. So I honestly don't understand your complaints. Feel free to call me some time if you'd like to vent some more. Just Google "Dixie Synthetics"
Thanks,
TS
I'm not having any issues selling oil in this climate. In fact, I find people more receptive to the idea of extending service intervals these days. So I honestly don't understand your complaints. Feel free to call me some time if you'd like to vent some more. Just Google "Dixie Synthetics"
Thanks,
TS
lovemybug
Veteran Member
Unless it's been changed, the last time I looked, Mobil TDT was still packaged in 4 quart jugs, not 5 quart.
bdiddy
Member
Yep. 4 qt jugs of mobil1 tdt...26 bucks at wallmart. Its what I run.
Yes, you are correct.
Buy a Mobil 1 (5) qt jug and a Mobil 1 oil filter: get a $15 rebate from Mobil 1!!
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Promotions/Store_Rebate_Mobil_1_Rules.aspx
A rebate, no shipping charges, no Customer No-Service attitude from an Amsoil Tech. Rep that doesn't want their job anymore!? Wooohoooo!!Couleetdi
Veteran Member
P.i. Performance Improver Gasoline Additive
Is or has anyone tried this. Looking to add it to my wifes subaru outback 2.5 boxer engine. Our gas really sucks around here.
Not so much on getting better mileage, we already run non ethanol gas, for the price of a bottle, I doubt it pays for itself. Just curious.
I used amsoil in both our vehicles, motorcycle and more for many years.
thanks
Is or has anyone tried this. Looking to add it to my wifes subaru outback 2.5 boxer engine. Our gas really sucks around here.
Not so much on getting better mileage, we already run non ethanol gas, for the price of a bottle, I doubt it pays for itself. Just curious.
I used amsoil in both our vehicles, motorcycle and more for many years.
thanks
vermont_tdi
Active member
I see a lot of emotion here.. what is this product.. and why does it create so much division?
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vermont_tdi
Active member
that was meant for the Amsoil page.. sorry..
Amsoil produces a wide variety of extended drain synthetic lubricants, high efficiency oil/air filters and fuel additives. I think any controversy is more directed at some of their dealers, rather than at the generally highly regarded products.
TS
TS
I think you are correct. I also think that the Amsoil brand has to some become elevated to cult status. There are many, many fine brands, some at lower cost and more readily/conveniently available.
BEN,
I think it's gotten worse since the Internet. Before that the local dealers I've worked with - particularly the direct jobbers, were for the most part very knowledgable. The problem now is if you do a google search on synthetic oil you turn up dozens of Amsoil links. I suspect people are simply looking for a more balanced perspective....
TS
I think it's gotten worse since the Internet. Before that the local dealers I've worked with - particularly the direct jobbers, were for the most part very knowledgable. The problem now is if you do a google search on synthetic oil you turn up dozens of Amsoil links. I suspect people are simply looking for a more balanced perspective....
TS
James & Son
Veteran Member
Think about it Bob, you put in a 25000 mile oil and will be changing it out in 5 to 10,000 miles. So you will be wasting 2/3 of the zddp and 2/3 of the calcium. The zddp in this oil is designed to last 25000 miles. The zddp in other Amsoil oils and examples such as TDT and T6 are designed to get it done in 10,000 miles. This oil is designed to run a marathon and you need an oil that will start like the 440. In theory thats why 505.01 should work.
Get the calcium out of the way and use the right zddp for the mileage.
loudspl
Veteran Member
I am running the same AME as Bob.
I wanted an oil more resistant to shearing that would work well running B99. My 1st UOA on the new engine build with Lubro Moly 10w-40 indicated it had sheared down to a 30wt. in less than 2k miles!
My hopes are that this AME will stay in grade given the demanding conditions in summer with a high output engine. If not, I may use the ARO or another good 50wt. in summer months
Bob_Fout
Oil Wanker
I can't say I agree. "We" ran CI-4 and CI-4+ oils for 10K to 20K mile intervals with no problems.
Surely you've seen the OCI recommendations for AMO, DME and DEO? Delvac 1 ESP and Delvac 1 are 100K mile oils [semis]... no issues using them in TDIs at shorter intervals.
TDT and T6 are usually safe to run to 12K to 20K miles (variable, depending on several factors)
James & Son
Veteran Member
Bob,
I am only talking about detergents and antiwear (zddp).
( further to my original post) I don,t understand; you do have a catalytic converter. Why are you not using the amsoil european 5w-40 with a .35 wear scar which is equal to AME.( I am relying on memory and assume you know what product).
I am sure you know calcium interferes with zddp, so less calcium makes for a more effective use of zddp and yet the lower ash formulations are an improvement in acid and soot control.
There are 3 types of zddp, a) stable b) less stable c) least stable.
c) is the fastest acting but if I was formulating for the long haul which would I use. I would think maybe a mix of b) and a) would get the job done.
If I am only restricted to 10,000 miles maybe can use a 50/50 mix of fast and medium acting?
I wonder what one Joe gibs break in oil would use or a racing oil in fact.
I would not run T6 below TBN 5 unless I started checking the TAN because I have a feeling it won't go much past 10,000 acid wise( just to much magnesium in there). This is not to say I have a problem with that. It just means it is out of the gate faster and it done by 10,000. I would guess some medium acting zddp with a little dash of moly and boron to get things going.( I believe boron and molydct are synergistic with zddp)
I am not using T6 by the way. I really have problems with everything out there. Nothing is catching my fancy. (damn pd engine).
Edit: loudspl, I am impressed the changes you have done to your engine. I can't but help ask a few questions. I am thinking you are shifting and accelerating alot. Your main and rod bearings are shearing up the oil. Was the lubrimoly a 5w-40 pao? If so the 15w-40 should have next to no polymer in it and so should shear less. I am sure Tooslick is grinding his teeth rate now.
I am only talking about detergents and antiwear (zddp).
( further to my original post) I don,t understand; you do have a catalytic converter. Why are you not using the amsoil european 5w-40 with a .35 wear scar which is equal to AME.( I am relying on memory and assume you know what product).
I am sure you know calcium interferes with zddp, so less calcium makes for a more effective use of zddp and yet the lower ash formulations are an improvement in acid and soot control.
There are 3 types of zddp, a) stable b) less stable c) least stable.
c) is the fastest acting but if I was formulating for the long haul which would I use. I would think maybe a mix of b) and a) would get the job done.
If I am only restricted to 10,000 miles maybe can use a 50/50 mix of fast and medium acting?
I wonder what one Joe gibs break in oil would use or a racing oil in fact.
I would not run T6 below TBN 5 unless I started checking the TAN because I have a feeling it won't go much past 10,000 acid wise( just to much magnesium in there). This is not to say I have a problem with that. It just means it is out of the gate faster and it done by 10,000. I would guess some medium acting zddp with a little dash of moly and boron to get things going.( I believe boron and molydct are synergistic with zddp)
I am not using T6 by the way. I really have problems with everything out there. Nothing is catching my fancy. (damn pd engine).
Edit: loudspl, I am impressed the changes you have done to your engine. I can't but help ask a few questions. I am thinking you are shifting and accelerating alot. Your main and rod bearings are shearing up the oil. Was the lubrimoly a 5w-40 pao? If so the 15w-40 should have next to no polymer in it and so should shear less. I am sure Tooslick is grinding his teeth rate now.
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Bob_Fout
Oil Wanker
Amsoil says for AMO and AME, xyz miles/hours or one year, whichever comes first. None of the Euro oils are close to AME or AMO for wear scar.
I have a cat, not a DPF. Yes, CJ-4 was made to limit catalyst poisoning but more-so DPFs.
Back when 505.00 oils were very rare (Syntec 5w40 and Mobil 1 0w40 were it and both were hard to find), you had to run Delvac 1, Cat DEO, Rotella 5w40, Delo 5w40. So from 1997 to 2006/2007 if you weren't running a Euro oil, you were running a CI-4 or CI-4+ (2004 to 2007) oil. If there was something "wrong" with CI-4 and CI-4+ oils, there'd have been issues in the 10 years from 1996/1997 to 2006/2007.
Check the NOACK of the oils in question (AMO and AME). Then compare to the 3 Euro oils and to Amsoil DEO. I'll take an oil that vaporizes less. Maybe I won't have to add 3/4 of a quart over 10K miles.