First under boost now over boost

Trakpak · Jan 13, 2020

Well from my other thread I had no boost due to what ultimately was someone weld the vnt actuator rod to the turbo. After I ground the weld off it worked great. I dove it a couple times and it was totally fine. Today on my way to work the first time I took it on the highway it fell on its face at speed and I got the po235 over boost code. I’m gonna unplug my maf on the way home tonight but any suggestions?

Tdijarhead · Jan 13, 2020

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589&highlight=Canadian+grizzly+low+boost

Good place to start.

Trakpak · Jan 13, 2020

I ran all new vacuum lines and fittings on the lines looking for the underboost fix. I also changed the n75. I still have the old one which is probably good still.

Trakpak · Jan 13, 2020

Tdijarhead said:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589&highlight=Canadian+grizzly+low+boost

Good place to start.

Thanks I was reading the calibration procedure. It says use the fewer gauge between the rod and the stop. Maybe because I’m laying under the car but I’m not aware of a stop that exists when vacuum is being pulled. There’s a stop when vacuum is released. I can’t imagine how it could be seen from above the car at all.

Tdijarhead · Jan 13, 2020

Did you check to see if the actuator holds vacuum? Easiest way to do that is a mity vac.

Trakpak · Jan 13, 2020

Tdijarhead said:
Did you check to see if the actuator holds vacuum? Easiest way to do that is a mity vac.

Yup it holds vacuuum great. Unless I’m thinking of this backwards should I just back off the actuator rod adjustment a bit? I did the mr muscle treatment a couple times before I found the rod was welded. I recently got the car a week or so ago. So I’m learning as I go on this thing.

flee · Jan 13, 2020

Trakpak, I think you are making a common assumption about overboost/underboost,
that it is the turbo itself. Many times on these old TDIs it is a lack of vacuum instead.
Use a MityVac to verify vacuum at every part of the vacuum system. Don't forget
the brake booster hose because they all develop a crack and leak eventually.
Start at the vacuum pump itself and check the nipple for looseness and low vacuum.
Obviously someone butchered your turbo linkage so verify the correct travel on that.

Trakpak · Jan 16, 2020

flee said:
Trakpak, I think you are making a common assumption about overboost/underboost,
that it is the turbo itself. Many times on these old TDIs it is a lack of vacuum instead.
Use a MityVac to verify vacuum at every part of the vacuum system. Don't forget
the brake booster hose because they all develop a crack and leak eventually.
Start at the vacuum pump itself and check the nipple for looseness and low vacuum.
Obviously someone butchered your turbo linkage so verify the correct travel on that.

Monday night I readjusted the actuator rod. I have it all in just under 18” of vacuum and it’s been running great all week. Well no turbo issues anyway. It starts kinda hard though. I ordered the 200 dollar cables. Hopefully there’s reccomemdations on what to set things at cuse I would have no idea otherwise.

Tdijarhead · Jan 16, 2020

I assume the $200 cables are the vcds cable by Ross-tech? If so you’ll need to check your timing and do some boost logging. When you’re ready just ask, there’s plenty of help here on the forum.

Rrusse11 · Jan 16, 2020

"I have it all in just under 18” of vacuum and it’s been running great all week"

That's a good start! Once you get the cable lots of help here. Timing and
fuelling are the next things to check and tweak. You'll get there.
Any documentation on when the timing belt was last done?

Trakpak · Jan 17, 2020

Tdijarhead said:
I assume the $200 cables are the vcds cable by Ross-tech? If so you’ll need to check your timing and do some boost logging. When you’re ready just ask, there’s plenty of help here on the forum.

Yes the Ross cables

Trakpak · Jan 17, 2020

Rrusse11 said:
"I have it all in just under 18” of vacuum and it’s been running great all week"

That's a good start! Once you get the cable lots of help here. Timing and
fuelling are the next things to check and tweak. You'll get there.
Any documentation on when the timing belt was last done?

Supposedly it was done like 1500 miles ago but the way the car was neglected I wouldn’t bank on it. I took a peek and it looks ok but I don’t know if a work one gets cracks or anything like a serpentine belt does.

I’ve been going through everything as I always do when I buy a used car. That way I know when things were done.

Trakpak · Jan 17, 2020

It was 10 degrees this morning and the car started perfectly. When I left work I didn’t think it was gonna start. When it finally did it blew a good cloud of black smoke. Then T the gas station and when I left the store it started up instantly. I got 40mpg on my first tank since I got the turbo sorted out. That’s not taking it easy and 75 or more on the highway.

Rrusse11 · Jan 17, 2020

"Supposedly it was done like 1500 miles ago"
Hmm, don't trust that, especially given the poor condition. You can't really
tell by looking at the belt, it's the bearings in the water pump and tensioner
that seize and then the belt breaks.
Plan on a TB job ASAP if you like the car. With the VCDS cable you'll get
it running better and can do some diagnostics.

When starting, don't pump the throttle like a gasser. Let the glow plug light
go out, wait 3 secs and then hit the starter. Well set up, it should kick over
quick, even in below freezing weather.
Sounds like you're getting there.

Trakpak · Jan 19, 2020

Rrusse11 said:
"Supposedly it was done like 1500 miles ago"
Hmm, don't trust that, especially given the poor condition. You can't really
tell by looking at the belt, it's the bearings in the water pump and tensioner
that seize and then the belt breaks.
Plan on a TB job ASAP if you like the car. With the VCDS cable you'll get
it running better and can do some diagnostics.

When starting, don't pump the throttle like a gasser. Let the glow plug light
go out, wait 3 secs and then hit the starter. Well set up, it should kick over
quick, even in below freezing weather.
Sounds like you're getting there.

I usually don’t believe the people when they say maintenance was done. It’s mid winter and I’m guessing the timing belt is a big job so I’ll probly wait till spring. When I take the challenger out of hibernation. That way the golf isn’t holding me up by being down. I did oil, filter,cabin,air,fuel filters,starter, led headlights, put in a radio. Ran all new vacuum lines and fittings as well as a new n75. Including the turbo issues I had haha. Its been a trial by fire but I’m enjoying learning how the diesel half lives. I do like this little car. I’ve always wanted to have a car that I put a zillion miles on and this may be it.

Trakpak · Jan 19, 2020

I e been doing two cycles of the glow plugs before i start it and it’s been better than it was.

Rrusse11 · Jan 20, 2020

Trak,
I wouldn't recommend driving it much until you get the TB done.
You've got a Jetta nose? Lousy headlights IMO, see if you can find
a Golf front clip where the lights are actually seperate lows and highs,
a big improvement if you do much night driving.
You're getting there!

Trakpak · Jan 20, 2020

Rrusse11 said:
Trak,
I wouldn't recommend driving it much until you get the TB done.
You've got a Jetta nose? Lousy headlights IMO, see if you can find
a Golf front clip where the lights are actually seperate lows and highs,
a big improvement if you do much night driving.
You're getting there!

Yeah the lights do suck. I bought some higher end led bulbs and they work really well. The beam pattern is a bit wonky at low beam. High beam is perfect so I really don’t understand that. Passenger side low beam looks great but the drivers is too close to the ground. High beams they both look perfect.

I’ll probably keep driving it and roll the dice until it gets warm out. It will most likely be fine till then. Worst case I get a new engine lol. I haven’t changed a motor in a few years.

What’s the intervals on the belt change anyway?

Rrusse11 · Jan 21, 2020

On a "new" vehicle the consensus is ASAP, because the consequences are so
catastrophic, unless you have good documentation. 5yrs or 80-100k is the
usual recommendation, sooner rather than later. You need some specialty
tools to lock the engine properly and it has to be done right, one tooth
out on the belt and you're in trouble. It is a complicated job, good how-tos
here on the forum, allow a day first time around.

Trakpak · Jan 21, 2020

Rrusse11 said:
On a "new" vehicle the consensus is ASAP, because the consequences are so
catastrophic, unless you have good documentation. 5yrs or 80-100k is the
usual recommendation, sooner rather than later. You need some specialty
tools to lock the engine properly and it has to be done right, one tooth
out on the belt and you're in trouble. It is a complicated job, good how-tos
here on the forum, allow a day first time around.

I was looking at a how to on here. I saw you need special tools. I haven’t looked them up Yet. So should anything else be done when the belt is changed?

Jadenmakaruk11 · Jan 21, 2020

Overboost!!

Hey guys, I really need help not sure what to do any more and it’s starting to piss me off lol. My 2000 vw Jetta keeps going into over boost it was doing this for a while then I fixed it for a bit by changing the check valve from and onlder tdi with around 300 000 km on it, and also took off and adjusted the actuator Rod it would stop moving around 16. The check valve that I changed you could definitely blow through both ways and the one I have now still has a little bit of air it will let out, when I changed both of these thing car ran good for about 2 weeks would spike 20 then drop off to 15-16 psi, now I know nz5 is good also switched that out as well and no difference vaccum lines are still original but look to be ok and vains are not stuck barley need any pressure to move them. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Trakpak · Jan 21, 2020

Rrusse11 said:
On a "new" vehicle the consensus is ASAP, because the consequences are so
catastrophic, unless you have good documentation. 5yrs or 80-100k is the
usual recommendation, sooner rather than later. You need some specialty
tools to lock the engine properly and it has to be done right, one tooth
out on the belt and you're in trouble. It is a complicated job, good how-tos
here on the forum, allow a day first time around.

Is this the stuff I need? Gates TCKWP321 Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYE25Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OJ6jEb87BBA5N

8MILELAKE Diesel Engine Timing Tool Kit Compatible for Audi and VW TDi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ZS2282/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kL6jEbD0G749Q

CTA Tools 2775 VW TDI Timing Belt Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VX0OS8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EL6jEb29FP9MM

Trakpak · Jan 21, 2020

Jadenmakaruk11 said:
Hey guys, I really need help not sure what to do any more and it’s starting to piss me off lol. My 2000 vw Jetta keeps going into over boost it was doing this for a while then I fixed it for a bit by changing the check valve from and onlder tdi with around 300 000 km on it, and also took off and adjusted the actuator Rod it would stop moving around 16. The check valve that I changed you could definitely blow through both ways and the one I have now still has a little bit of air it will let out, when I changed both of these thing car ran good for about 2 weeks would spike 20 then drop off to 15-16 psi, now I know nz5 is good also switched that out as well and no difference vaccum lines are still original but look to be ok and vains are not stuck barley need any pressure to move them. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

If you follow my other thread about under boost there’s good stuff on that fur under and over boost.

Rrusse11 · Jan 21, 2020

https://www.idparts.com/alh-timing-belt-kit-038109119m-p-449.html

https://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-tools-a4-alh-p-1262.html

Trakpak,

Here's what you'll need at a minimum. Note water pump, tensioner rollers,
serpentine belt, etc. The belt itself is not the usual culprit, one of the bearings sieze up and then the belt breaks.

Camshaft sprocket recommended for high mileage cars.

It IS an expensive job, but essential for long term reliability/durability.
Read this thread if you want more info on the MkIV platform;
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=491126

Member here on the forums Indigo Blue Wagon, is the proprietor, great service,
good prices, excellent parts, and a knowledgeable staff. Many members here, including myself,
use idparts (almost) exclusively.

Cheers

Trakpak · Jan 21, 2020

Rrusse11 said:
https://www.idparts.com/alh-timing-belt-kit-038109119m-p-449.html

https://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-tools-a4-alh-p-1262.html

Trakpak,

Here's what you'll need at a minimum. Note water pump, tensioner rollers,
serpentine belt, etc. The belt itself is not the usual culprit, one of the bearings sieze up and then the belt breaks.

Camshaft sprocket recommended for high mileage cars.

It IS an expensive job, but essential for long term reliability/durability.
Read this thread if you want more info on the MkIV platform;
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=491126

Member here on the forums Indigo Blue Wagon, is the proprietor, great service,
good prices, excellent parts, and a knowledgeable staff. Many members here, including myself,
use idparts (almost) exclusively.

Cheers

That is pricy. So about 500 in parts and tools. Is there other stuff I should get? What do places typically charge to do the job? Normally I never let anyone touch my stuff. I simply don’t trust people to do a proper job.

Rrusse11 · Jan 21, 2020

Trakpak,

My guru charges around $900, with a camshaft sprocket thrown in,
I'd expect a grand. They're in practice and warranty the work,
they do get it right and replace everything in the kit, and charge a bit
more for the parts. I don't begrudge them their time or expertise.

They don't mind me watching and asking questions, a big plus in my book.
It's a job above my mechanical pay grade.

flee · Jan 22, 2020

Trakpak said:
Is this the stuff I need? Gates TCKWP321 Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYE25Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OJ6jEb87BBA5N
8MILELAKE Diesel Engine Timing Tool Kit Compatible for Audi and VW TDi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ZS2282/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kL6jEbD0G749Q
CTA Tools 2775 VW TDI Timing Belt Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VX0OS8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EL6jEb29FP9MM

Trakpak, I think you are up to doing your own timing belt as you seem mechanically
inclined. Use the vast amount of detailed information here and you will do just fine.
I would only get the parts kit from one of the trusted vendors on this site.
Ditto for the tools. I got mine from Metalnerd and DieselGeek. Get the counterhold
tool that allows you to both loosen and correctly torque the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Don't forget that VCDS is recommended for adjusting the timing and many other uses.

First under boost now over boost

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